Guessing Game Reveal: Cut Your Corners

by Ramona on May 25, 2012

Behold, the end result of the puzzle in the last post on this blog.  It’s a slip!  In the 30’s it was actually worn as a slip but today I know people who would wear it as a dress. Read below the actual words re-typed exactly as in the booklet. Some things I had to  to read a couple of times before I knew what the original writer meant, but it’s an easy but interesting project to make.  Will you? Let us know how it turned out. I’ve typed my text in red do you can differentiate.

Aha!

“Cut Your Corners

Materials: 2 yds. 39 inch nainsook for size 36, or 2 1/4 (two & a quarter) yds for larger sizes. 1 spool of J&P Coats or Clark’s (not Coats & Clark) ONT Best Six Thread, White size 70 or 80. 1 package J&P Coats Bias Trim, fine lawn, color 31 Pink, or 4 Blue, and 1 spool Boilfast Mercerized Sewing Thread to match. 1 ball Clark’s ONT White Mercerized Crochet, size 70 for fagoting. Milward’s Crewel needles, size 7 or 8. Sharp scissors, pins, tape measure and other sewing equipment.

Joining the pieces. See it now??

Cutting the Slip: A bias cut slip adjusts itself in the smooth lines that the newest frocks require. Two squares of material with the corners cut as shown here in diagram 1 will make one of these sleek undergarments. For figures larger than size thirty six, 39 inch squares of goods will be needed instead of 36-inch squares. All the measurements for cutting the corners will be the same as shown here in the diagram for all sizes. (Refer to previous blog post for detailed diagram)

Fitting & Making the Slip: The triangular corners A, B & C are joined to the center portion of each of the squares as shown here in diagram 2. When the lower edge of the slip is to be finished with a binding, the triangles set in at the bottom of the skirt will not be needed except for unusually tall figures or when a slip for a long dress is desired.

The fitting of the slip is extremely important, for it is at the seam limes that the slip is moulded to the individual figure. The seams are pinned with the garment wrong side out on the figure as shown here. When this is done, take the slip off and trim away extra material at seam lines.

Next, remove the pins along the side seams, and remove triangular sections at bottom if used. Baste & stitch the upper triangular sections in place using top stitching for these joinings. Now, you are ready to make the side joinings. Use very tiny French seams for these. If the triangles at the bottom of the slip are needed, set these in with top stitched seams. The method of making these seams and many others are fully explained and clearly illustrated in your copy of Sewing Secrets.

Bias Bindings and Fagoted Trimming: This slip of fine white nainsook is trimmed with pale pink bias trim and the fagoting is done with No. 70 Clark’s O.N.T. White Mercerized Crochet. A dainty effect is obtained here by cutting away one edge of the bias trim to make it narrower than regulation width. The full width of the bias trim may be used if desired. If silk is used for the slip the bias trimming may be made of self material.

The first step is to bind the top & bottom of the slip. For the narrow trimming, cut away one edge of prepared bias trim as shown here in sketch 3. Place this trimmed edge right side down on the right side of the edge to be finished and stitch as in sketch 4. To keep the bias top of the slip from stretching, baste to paper. After stretching (stitching?) tear paper away. Turn the binding over the raw edges to wrong side of garment and hem down to the machine stitching as in sketch 5 with matching Boilfast Mercerized Sewing Thread.

To make the narrow strips of Bias Trim for the fagoting, trim away one edge as for the binding, fold the bias strip wrong side out through the center and stitch as shown in sketch 7. Sew a strong double thread to the end as shown in this sketch; then push needle head first through the tube of material turning it right side out as shown in sketch 8. When the bias trim has been prepared in this way, fagot it to the bound edges at the top and at the bottom of the slip as shown here in sketch 6.

To make the medallion, prepare the bias trim as for the other fagoting and then baste it ‘round and ‘round to a piece of paper as shown here in sketch 9. Press with a warm iron and then fagot as shown. When the fagoting is complete remove from paper, and baste in position on right side of slip.Cut the slip material from under the medallion as shown in sketch 10; then whip the raw edge down to the back of the medallion as shown here.

Make shoulder straps of the Bias Trim, stitched & turned.

Fagoting is such a popular form of trimming right now that you will be delighted with the different types of fagoting stitches and the many fagoting designs illustrated in Sewing Secrets.

Bias slips which really fit the figure are the goal of every well-dressed woman. The simple directions given here make it possible to achieve that goal. Cotton material is particularly attractive for summer wear, as it is cool and easily laundered. However, if you prefer, silk materials can be used with these same direction. Fine Lawn Bias Trim may be used for the fagoting in this latter case, or tiny bindings and tubings made of bias strips of the fabric.”

Hope you make this project. I am! Tell us what you think in the comments section below.

Samina, American Sewing Guild. Follow us on Twitter @SewingGuild

{ 5 comments }

Lynn Weglarz May 25, 2012 at 2:42 pm

Love it! Though I won’t make it (too many, many other projects on my plate right now!) Thanks for the interesting challenge.

Leslie @ ASG in the SLC May 25, 2012 at 8:28 pm

lol – I guessed panties, maybe I should have paid better attention to the dimensions?! Altho I wouldn’t make the slip, I may have try my hand at that medallion some time!

Samina May 25, 2012 at 8:31 pm

Lynn & Leslie, thanks for commenting!
I think I’ll try my hand at this, but shorten it into a camisole.

Janith Bergeron May 27, 2012 at 11:21 am

Love this and hope to make it. Camisole is a great idea. This methodology is very similar to the 18th century shifts we just finished making for the American Independence Museum. How creative sewing was/is using wof, edges and geometry.

Sue S May 27, 2012 at 1:45 pm

I thought it was some sort of chemise!! I may have to try this for ‘E’, who is now nearly as tall as I am but very much slimmer! Thanks, Samina.

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