Flawless Invisible Zipper

by Ramona on February 13, 2014

I’ve been working on a project for our ASG udsgnit-ucr8it series. The project is in conjunction with our Design Your Dream Prom Dress Contest.

A step in the project is inserting an invisible zipper. When first learning to insert an invisible zipper, of course I read through the instructions that come in the zipper package. I also, of course, learned to sew zippers in my high school and college classes. But like many things sewing, experience is the best teacher. After doing countless alterations on bridal, prom and other special occasion formal wear, I’ve taken some tricks from the ready-to-wear industry and adapted them to fit my own sewing.

All this week I’ve been posting “teaser” pictures of the project I’ve been working on. Two of the photos were the top of the invisible zipper insertion and the waistline seams. They match well using the little tricks.

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It sparked some wonderful comments and folks wanted to know my little tricks; hence, this blog post. Let me show you the tricks and tips I learned by doing those alterations. Perhaps these tips will help you on your next invisible zipper insertion. All the steps are reserved for our ASG members in the Members Only section of the ASG website, but these few tips should help you out. (For our ASG Members: I’ll get the video done as soon as I can for our webmater to get it on the website. I’ll do a post on the ASG  Facebook page after she gets it posted.)

Buy a zipper longer than needed and in a color to as closely match the fabric as possible. Determine where the top of the zipper needs to be, allowing for the turn of the cloth and thickness of the fabric.

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Pin then baste the left side of the zipper tape in place. Don’t skip this step. This step prevents the zipper from shifting while sewing next to the coils.

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Do any matching at seamlines that need to be done on the other side of the zipper.

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Pin then baste those points before basting in the remaining zipper tape. This will make sure these areas do not shift when basting and sewing the zipper in place. Pin then baste the remaining zipper tape to the seam allowance.

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Press the zipper coils as flat as possible.

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Determine how close to the stitching needs to be to the coil so the zipper closes yet no fabric gets caught when the zipper closes.

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Stitch in the zipper.

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Finish the bottom of the seam line by creating a “pocket” . This is done by beginning the stitching 1/4″ up and in just a few threads from where the zipper insertion stitching ended. Stitch from this point down a few inches, blending into the seamline. (The zipper foot was taken off so the placement of the needle would be visible.)

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Stitch the remaining seam closed, blending into the previous stiching. Press the seam open. The seamline should not show any of the zipper teeth and the blend should be seamless.

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Stitch across the coils leaving about 2″ of extra zipper. Cut off  the zipper below this stitching and apply a patch at the bottom of the zipper using a light weight fabric.

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The finished zipper should look like a plain seam.

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At the top, apply the waistband, lining or facing. Apply a hook and eye at the top of the closure.

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When zipped, the insertion should look virtually flawless.

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I hope your next invisible zipper insertion is flawless with the help of these tips.

Sew ’til next time…enjoy the journey of sewing!

Ramona

{ 1 comment }

JC February 14, 2014 at 7:45 pm

Thanks again for posting on the blog. I’m a member so I’m looking forward to the video whenever time permits. 🙂

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