The Plight of Intersections

by Ramona on December 22, 2017

On the ASG Facebook page, I’ve been “teasing” our members and followers with something. I’ll at least let the cat out of the bag now as to what it is.

Do you read pattern sewing instructions and ever wonder why someone hasn’t come up with a better system of sewing some areas of garments? I often do that. Specifically right now I’m talking about the intersection of the collar stand and cuff on a sleeve.

These are examples of what I’m talking about.

Here the front of the shirt front is folded back twice and stitched down. The collar stand is attached, with the collar, and at the center front it is anything but pretty and as near perfect as we can get it. I see this in not only home sewn garments but also in ready-to-wear like this shirt. When fabrics are thin, it is easier to get a somewhat smooth transition from the front band into the collar stand, but on heavier fabrics like denim it is much harder because of the bulk of the fabric and all the layers that come together at that point.

The same with a cuff with a placket. Again, with a lighter weight fabric like a shirting, the layers that come together aren’t as bulky as a heavier fabric, yet—there is still an anything but smooth transition.

In better ready-to-wear greater care is taken in these two areas making them smoother but still, it is not as perfect as I’d like.

After considerable thought–and A LOT of experimentation–I believe I’ve come up with what I think is a good way to transition these areas. Will it change the world of sewing? I’d like to think so but who knows! LOL Honestly, all it takes is a little re-designing of the pattern and different steps in construction but truly it is no harder than matching seamlines at a center back waist.

I’m finishing up a garment now that will have these two new techniques in it. They will be in the video sew-along series and posted on the ASG website in the members only area. The video will show step by step how each is accomplished.

Watch for the last blog of the year next week and I’ll show you the final garment areas and you can judge for yourself.

Sew ‘til next time….enjoy the journey of sewing!

~Ramona

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