For me, personally, the term “organize” is so 2011. In 2012 and onward, I’m using “mise en place”, a French term traditionally used by highly organized gourmet chefs.

Not to throw around a non-existent knowledge of the French language or anything, but the concept of mise en place (pronounced meez ahn plahs) strikes a chord when applied to sewing.  It means nothing more than organizing your fabrics & tools before starting on a project & re-organize during the project.

The serious foodies know that it literally means “set in place”, referring to having all your pre-prepared, pre-chopped ingredients in bowls on a tray next to the stove. Well, we sewing enthusiasts can apply the same concept when preparing a sewing project. Maybe most of you already do that?

With small quick projects, the mise en place can be just a one-time deal. With extensive sewing projects, the mise goes multi-level! Here’s a general synopsis but the levels will change with the nature of the project. Lets say we’re making an unlined shift dress with a back zipper:

Level 1: Pattern, measuring tape, paper scissors. If pattern alteration is needed, we’ll need scotch tape, ruler, pencil and extra paper.

Level 2: Fabric (muslin if testing the pattern), interfacing, cut out & adjusted pattern tissue, fabric cutting instruments (scissor or rotary cutter & mat), marking instruments, pins or pattern weights.

Level 3: Iron, fabric & interfacing pieces for the fusing process, press cloth.

Level 4: Cut out & interfaced fabric pieces, zipper, zipper foot, matching thread for zipper installation.

Level 5:  Hand needles, pins, basting thread. I’m a basting enthusiast — so what.

Level 6: Next to the sewing machine: basted together project, matching thread, machine needles, regular presser foot, buttonhole foot if needed, receptacle for thread & fabric scraps, thread snips (come on people, indulge my “orderly” gene). And ….. plugged-in iron & press cloth.

Level 7: Repeat levels 5 & 6 for sewing in neck facing and sleeves.

Level 8: Sewn together project, notions & tools for finishing touches (such as hems), hand sewing needles, beeswax (for the couturiere). Iron plugged in with press cloth nearby for the pressing up hem & the final press.

A sewing mise en place is more instinctive than I’ve made it sound. For example, the order of the above levels changes with a particular projects. Embellished projects would need the tools & embellishment items above the construction level . Fun, huh?

Feel free to comment — if only to tell me that this post is not your cup of tea and you prefer the happy, creative chaos of digging for tools & other items as you go. I’ll love you anyway . Or you can tell me if I’ve forgotten to mention a crucial item in any level.

Samina, American Sewing Guild. Follow us on Twitter @SewingGuild

Red Organza, stenciled leaves in black/gold. Vogue (Adri) pattern

If silk organza was a person, it would be Prince of Fabricland, or a President of the United States of Fabrics (since this is America and its election year ).   What language is “organza” anyway – Italian? It’s one of the few fabrics which has the potential to be all things to all sewers. I mean, what’s not to like about a fabric which:

1. Ends up as exquisite clothing, whatever the style – a sporty camp shirt can become party wear when made in silk organza; it can, of course, be made up as a gossamer evening gown.

2. Can take embellishment on the surface – paint, embroidery (hand & machine), applique (organza-on-organza applique is gorgeous) and just about any other lightweight embellishment.

3. Can be manipulated AS surface embellishment. Have you ever made fabric flowers with silk organza? And ruffles?  Perfection!

4. Looks great in clothing with a raw edge aesthetic when cut on the bias, and if it’s a look you’re going for.

Silk dupioni pants underlined with silk organza!

5. Can go underground in the form of underlining to support an outer fabric. See picture, left.

6. Can go behind another transparent fashion fabric to be used as interfacing to maintain the sheer factor and support at the same time.

7. Stabilizes corners of inset seams (as in godets and gussets) – a small square should do the job.

8. Can become a sewing notion — as a press cloth!

9. Is used successfully as a stabilizer for machine embroidery under another fabric

10. Can be used as a home décor item. Organza curtains? Sheer bliss!

11. Is manufactured in many colors.

12. Takes well to a dye job.

13. Organza fashion accessories are to die for: scarves, and get this — necklaces!

14. Can be used in lieu of pattern paper! In Kenneth King’s online class of copying RTW, we used silk organza instead of paper to create the first round of the pattern. Worked beautifully! Highly recommend this class whenever & wherever offered.

Downside:

a) Can be relatively expensive

b) Goes limp after repeated machine washing & drying, unless that’s the look you’re going for.

c) It’s a dry clean budget-buster.

Read this fabulous post about using silk organza as facing:  From the Sew Daily blog, written by Amber Eden: Add (Almost) Invisible Support to Your Blouse

Readers, you definitely know of more uses of this beautiful, versatile fabric.  Please comment here and let us know!

Samina, American Sewing guild, follow us on Twitter @SewingGuild

In this post by ASG member Sue Slottke, her granddaughter E learns to Embroider… and make a place mat!  Read on and be inspired to pass your sewing skills (and sewing obsession) to another generation. It’s such a good thing to do — Samina

I had the opportunity to take some time off work while the grands had spring break. E, my oldest grand wanted another sewing session.  This time she wanted to learn how to use the embroidery machine! Okay… well, she’s pretty good at threading the Viking so I thought we’d give it a shot with the Brother. She picked out a few spools of variegated embroidery thread to use. She and I had some trouble with the automatic needle threader. Drat!

We found stabilizer and some white-on-white cotton fabric, and I showed her how to hoop everything.  She picked a one color design, a butterfly, since the thread color would change automatically with her selection of variegated thread. Little sister thought watching the multicolored butterfly appear was very cool. When the design was done E removed it from the machine and clipped threads. Then she went on to pick another design and another thread color. Much discussion ensued about what would look the coolest.

Sewing on an embroidery machine is pretty easy!! But sometimes things do go wrong.  .  This is her first ever thread nest!!

E did four more designs, including her initial in gold in a scroll-type font. We talked about how to use these squares in a project. She decided to make a place mat. For a pattern she pulled one from the linen closet.  From the fat quarter bin she chose a lovely piece of blue plaid that coordinated with most of the embroidery thread she had used. She used a pair of scissors to rough cut a large rectangle for the center, and I finished up with the rotary cutter. (I think rotary cutters are just a bit dangerous for a beginner, especially with a little sister running around!) This kept little A busy for a while!

I also trimmed out the embroideries.

E took some time to arrange her embroidered squares in a pleasing layout, and assembled her place mat top. Next we went to the ironing board. Oh-oh!! Even though we were being very careful, accidents sometimes happen, and she touched the hot iron with the back of her finger.  We took a break for some ice in a baggie for the burn, and had a beverage. After the sting wore off, she decided that it was time to read a book for a while. Mom came home and we stopped for dinner.

Next day we returned to the project. E had chosen a white fabric with multicolored dots for a backing. She pinned it up, and we discussed how to sew almost all the way around, leaving a hole for turning the project. She remembered having done this way back when she made her little dog blanket last year, so she happily worked her way around the edges, pulling out the pins as she sewed, stopping to pivot at the corners.   She turned it right side out without assistance. Once it was turned, I pressed it. Not wanting another burn, E declined another trip to the ironing board! I showed her how to use the edge stitch foot to close the gap in the seam. Voila!

This is one very lovely place mat! And one happy grand, with a success in the sewing room.

Things to remember:

• It’s fun to choose your own ‘ingredients’.

• Build on previous knowledge.

• Don’t be afraid to try something new.

• Accidents happen. Be careful but be prepared.

• It’s OK to take a break.

• Make it FUN!!

• Be proud of the finished product.

Happy sewing!

Sue and E

Clever child, that E!  Thanks to Sue, E and A for letting ASG document the development of a sewing enthusiast. We are so happy to follow you along. Time flies and before we know it, E may be ready to sew her own prom dress and then  — her wedding dress?!!

Samina, American Sewing Guild,  follow us on Twitter  @SewingGuild

Annette Winward is the winner of these items from ASG! She hit the nail on the head when she guessed what the pictured items were going to be sewn into, and also what they were originally! Here is the original post, and you can check out the updates too.  Here are her two comments:

“I am guessing that the fabric will be made into a clothing, accessory, or blanket using the Alabama Chanin hand sewing technique that is becoming so very popular for recyclying, going green, and environmental sustainability.”

“I need to add that I believe the fabric source is from recycled sweaters or tee shirts.” (Other commenters gave the right answer about the original fabric pieces, but did not get the second question right).

Although this blog and everything in it is open to the public, Annette happens to be an ASG member, affiliated with the Northern Virginia chapter. The prize items will be mailed to her ASAP. Enjoy, Annette, and thanks for commenting and guessing ever so correctly!

Here is the final product, made by following the Alabama Chanin method of sewing! As you can see, it is a scarf made with two layers derived from a mustard Banana Republic silk knit tee shirt (courtesy of my daughter), and a rose pink cotton knit tee I had made and did not like that much. There was a bright blue third t-shirt but did not get included in the scarf.  This project was made by using the old 1935 scarf pattern shown in this previous post. The scarf is still not finished, as you can see I have some edges left to bind! Sorry about that.

Our congratulations to Annette and thanks to everyone who commented on this post. Post your thoughts on this…….. in fact, keep posting comments on the ASG blog!

Samina, American Sewing Guild, Follow us on Twitter @SewingGuild

If you are a magazine junkie like me, you probably wonder what goes on in the mind of an editor when planning a future issue. Here, our Notions editor Anne Marie Soto briefs us on some of the thoughts and actions behind the Spring 2012 issue of Notions. Members, you are probably just receiving this issue, which is also available online. And here she goes ……

ASG members love to sew for themselves . . . they love to share their sewing knowledge with others . . . and they love to use their sewing skills to make the world a better place.

We try to put a little bit of that into every issue of Notions.

Sometimes, a talented colleague will approach me with a great idea for a cover story; other times, I’ve spotted a trend and then put out some feelers for the perfect author. As I was following the spring ’12 designer runway reports–and faithfully reading my issues of “Women’s Wear Daily”–sheers kept popping up. I’ve long admired the work of Marla Kazell, who specializes in custom clothing and couture construction. And I knew that Marla’s roster of classes and workshops included working with sheers–so the choice was obvious! The result is “Sheer Magic,” a cover story to inspire you to add at least one sheer item to your sewing agenda.

Marla, who will be teaching several classes on couture techniques at ASG Conference 2012 in Houston, August 16-20, lists the late couture expert Roberta (Bobbie) Carr as one of her very important mentors. Marla studied with Bobbie for many years and served as technical advisor for Bobbie’s book,” Couture: The Art of Fine Sewing.” First published in 1993, the book is still available through Palmer/Pletsch Publishing. It’s a favorite on my book shelf and a “must own” for anyone who cherishes fine sewing techniques.

At the opposite end of the sewing spectrum, Monday, May 15th is National Wear Your Apron Day. Aprons are easy-to-make projects, a perfect teaching tool for new sewers. So whip one up in honor of this day!

Several years ago, when we realized that many ASG members were enthusiastically involved in teaching the next generations to sew, we initiated the Sew Young section. It informs members about projects, books, individual activities and ASG chapter programs designed to reach and teach up and coming sewers. Current articles include “Attracting Young Sewers to ASG,” by Joan Cavin and a profile of a highly successful youth fashion show developed by our Eagle River, Alaska Chapter in conjunction with the Sewing Division of the Alaska State Fair.

The Chapter News section showcases a wide variety of ASG chapter activities. A particular shout-out goes to the San Diego, California Chapter who was honored by the Armed Services YMCA with the 2011 Admiral St. George Award. This award was given in recognition of their contribution to active-duty families in the San Diego area. Their five-year partnership with the San Diego YMCA resulted in over 4,100 quilts for the Operation Kid Comfort program. Each quilt design incorporates photos of the deployed family member. In the words of one of the children who received a quilt, “…when I’m sad, I hug it and know dad hugs me back because his love is in it.”

Anne Marie Soto

Hope you enjoyed a peek behind the new issue of Notions! Utmost gratitude and thanks to Anne Marie, who we’ll see again after the Summer 2012 issue is out.

Also, today we’ll announce the winner of the Guess What? post!

Samina, American Sewing Guild, follow us on Twitter @SewingGuild

We bring a thoughtfiul, fantastic guest post today from member Judy Spinney, who is ASG’s North Jersey Chapter President. The article first appeared on the cover of the North Jersey chapter’s newsletter; our thanks to Judy for giving us permission to re-print it on the ASG blog, so we can show off thoughtful, analytical & multi-talented people on our membership roster & chapter leadership.  Take it away, Judy!  Samina.

Threadhead Judy Spinney

Recently I attended a seminar, “Food, Stress and the Brain.” It was presented by the Institute of Natural Resources, a well researched medically oriented lecture series for continuing education in a variety of fields. There was a lot of brain biology to wade through as well as statistics and human anatomical terminology. Also there were a lot of flow charts, with arrows leading from “sedentary lifestyle” to “stress” and “overeating” to ”depression” and to “obesity”. Later in the seminar, when the speaker finally was showing what we can actually do to change the cycle, there they were in the flow chart…a pair of hands! Specifically the hands were there to represent sewing! Yay! Finally, someone with initials after her name has given validation to what we have known for years. We “get it” as to the value of sewing and other handwork and we know that when we go to a guild activity we will be surrounded by others who “get it.”

When we sew, we “activate effort driven rewards circuitry”in the brain. Whew! Too many words! Here is the direct quote from the handout:

“Any activity that requires you to use your hands that you enjoy, (e.g. cooking, gardening, crafts, knitting, sculpture, chopping wood), especially if it puts you in the “flow zone,” will energize your effort driven rewards circuit and help build resilience. Such tasks reinforce that idea that you can use your hands to interact with the environment in purposeful, meaningful ways.”

Lambert, Kelly, Lifting Depression: A neuroscientist’s Hands –On Approach to Activating Your Brain’s Healing Power., 2008, Basic Books, New York, NY.

I don’t know who you are, Ms. Lambert, but I bought your book!

We know that sewing is essentially sedentary, as are many jobs. I do jump up to press seams open every few minutes, even setting up little challenges for myself since I know my iron will cut off in 10 minutes if I don’t use it.

We also know that sewing is highly rewarding. It involves several areas of the brain, sensory (color and touch), planning, spatial relationships and problem solving. We also know that incredible reward of looking at the changes brought about in the fabric by our various manipulations. When you hold up that pieced 9 patch or that beautifully inserted zipper, there is a flow of energy that we know to be good for us!

What are other ways to manage stress? Oh, you already know them: get plenty of rest, eat right and get lots of exercise. Now we can add: Sew, sew , SEW!!!  

Judy Spinney

Readers, feel free to comment in the section below on this subject. Let’s have a “Show of Hands” on this topic.

Samina, American Sewing Guild, follow us on Twitter @SewingGuild

This is the second update to the original Guess What? post & the first update. Let’s recap the hints!

1. The letter “A” (not ASG)

2. Involves much handsewing

Here are hints #3 and #4

#3: There are at two fabric layers in this project. Possibly a 3rd layer.

#4: The letter C. (No, it does not stand for Conference.) 

Dressmaking, quilting, tailoring, bra-making – yeah, we know you’ve sewn it all. Is anything new anymore? Yes, Shadowfolds! Well, at its very essence this is a re-hash of an old technique, but it is oh so new. I AM FLOORED!

“Shadowfolds” , a book which has the potential to churn your creative juices, details a technique by the same name, written by Chris Palmer & Jeffrey Rutzky, and requires (gasp) hand sewing. Let me qualify that – it’s more knotting than sewing. It’s a combination of Japanese origami and Canadian smocking. Once you read through the book, you will have a renewed appreciation of the wonders of geometry.

Shadowfolding uses yardage not little scraps, and that is part of the beauty.  Projects in the book range from museum quality art, to fashion, to a cushion cover to an evening bag; the Shadowfolding technique can be applied to any project. To see author Chris Palmer’s projects, go to the Shadowfolds website.

Author’s project photographed with & without back lighting

The authors are inspired by many things including the tiles in Alhambra. Some projects are worked in organza, and photographed against a light source. Sheer drama!

If you’re intrigued, go ahead and buy this book now, or put it on the wish list for a birthday, Mother’s day or an early Christmas gift.  I’m digging into my stash right now to make a Shadowfolds project.

To purchase Shadowfolds through Amazon, be sure to go through the link on the ASG website’s home page. The Amazon icon is on the lower right side.

What do you think, readers? Where would you apply shadowfolding? Let’s have some comments!

Usual disclaimer: The publisher and authors of Shadowfolds did not ask me to review this book. The book is my personal copy purchased through Amazon. I write about it here because I’m thrilled by the content of “Shadowfolds”.

Samina,

American Sewing Guild

Follow us on Twitter @SewingGuild

Today we welcome a hilariously & beautifully written post from ASG member Carole Zimmerman, whose membership is affiliated with the ASG’s Bucks County, PA chapter. Take it away, Carole ……………

Of course I’m speaking about being a ‘sewing virgin’! What were you thinking??? My Mother was an excellent and adventurous sewer.

Carole (left) and sister Roberta in outfits sewn by their mother

She made all the clothes for me and my sister when we were young, including beautiful lined wool coats and lovely dressy outfits for family affairs. And she did all this while working fulltime when most mothers were home with their little girls. As I got older I didn’t want to wear anything she made. I had no appreciation for the fine seamstress she was. I wanted to shop for my clothes like the other girls in school so my Mother stopped sewing for me. In the Home Ec class in school I had to make an apron, and hated the whole process. I damaged my Mom’s machine getting the #$!!@*! thing finished. It seemed that the ‘sewing gene’ had skipped a generation. My Mother continued to sew for herself and I never understood the pleasure she derived from sitting at her machine.

Fast forward to the birth of my first child, a handsome, charming, exceptionally bright child who spread joy wherever he went (a personality he possessed right up to puberty). When he started to crawl and I started to buy corduroy overalls from Sears, our little family was living under the constrictions of a very tight budget. My Mother, not one to ponder the social graces of subtlety, suggested I could save a lot of money if I made the overalls myself, instead of buying them. When I priced the pattern and fabric and realized how cheap it would be to make them myself, I had an epiphany! My Mother was brilliant! She was so much smarter than she was during my teen years. When and how she acquired this knowledge I didn’t know but I figured I should start to really listen to her pearls of wisdom. I bought a cheap sewing machine, figuring in my head that it’s cost would be spread out over a lifetime of sewing overalls for future children and I’d still come out ahead. Well, I was off and running. Oh my! There’s more to sewing than overalls! There’s t-shirts, and pj’s and robes and blankies. I came to covet my collection of notions and fabric and trim. Mom and I would fabric shop together. We had our own show and tell. We took Stretch & Sew classes together. I finally understood and shared her love of sewing.

Three children later I positively had to have a better machine. Nancy on TV had a Pfaff and though I never heard of it before, I had to have it. It had a walking foot and I really, really needed a walking foot. I started to quilt and my old machine just couldn’t cut it. Thus began my new journey into the never-ending need for the newest, the best, the most innovative machines, tools, notions and books. I became a Collector. You name it, I collected it. Fabrics I didn’t know what to do with but oh, so beautiful! Do you think five yards is enough? Sewing books and quilting books and appliqué books and ‘How to…’ books. Notions I needed to sew quicker and better and…..wait..what does this funny thing do? I can’t find the instructions. Perhaps it will come to me in a dream. Or perhaps I’ll forget I have it and buy it again. Well, at least then I’ll have the instructions.

Sewing had become a major part of my life and I was deeply immersed in expanding my creativity. One day in a fabric store I heard a calm & sweet voice telling someone about the American Sewing Guild. I was drawn to that voice like Lorelei. Like a stranger offering me candy, I had to go speak to that voice and learn about this guild. And thus began a new journey. One that has given me a large circle of new friends and wonderful new adventures …… ……..but that’s another story.

Carole Zimmerman

Thank you, Carole, for that insightful piece! Readers, you must have a sewing story of the past; comment here if you want to share it. It’s so much fun to see where our current personal sewing mojo is coming from!

Samina, American Sewing Guild, follow us on Twitter @SewingGuild

Commentors, thanks to all five of you who commented on  last week’s Guess What? post with a giveaway. If this keeps up, the chances of winning the ASG products are really good! I think a little more hinting is in order today:

Hint #3: The letter A (see hint #2 in previous post) does not refer to ASG. Did you think I was going to be that obvious?

That’s all I’m sayin’. Come on, put your thinking caps on again! The fourth hint will come next week.

Samina, American Sewing Guild, follow us on Twitter @SewingGuild