ASG Sewing Blog

November 21, 2025

From Sweater to Fall Foliage on Display

Who doesn’t love a bit of fall color?

If you’ve followed my blog posts for any length of time, you know that I love repurposing things in unexpected ways, and this sweater wreath is the perfect project for that mantra.

Get started by gathering some fall-color-no-longer-worn sweaters from your closet, from friends, or visit thrift stores. Look for color gradations or stripes within the sweater so you have more tonal options from a single pick.

If the sweaters are wool, throw them in the washer and dryer to felt them, creating a denser fabric to work with.

Supplies

One 10-12” wicker wreath form
Assorted fall color sweaters
Assorted fall color felt
Assorted fall color threads
Assorted fall color felt balls, 1- 1½” diameter
Fusible web
Hot glue/glue gun
Large bow (optional)

Putting it together

Download some free leaf shapes from the Internet. One site is https://worldofprintables.com/leaf-template/. Oak and maple shapes are ideal, but any basic leaf shapes will work.
Trace the leaves onto the paper side of the fusible web and rough-cut the shapes.
Following the manufacturer’s instructions, fuse the shapes to the wrong side of the sweaters, positioning them according to your color selection and varying placement for interest.
Cut out the sweater leaves on the drawn lines.
Peel off the protective paper and fuse the leaf shapes to a contrasting felt color. Cut out the shapes ¼” from the sweater edges, leaving a narrow felt border around each leaf.
Using a straight stretch stitch or a narrow zigzag stitch, detail the leaf veining to mimic the natural leaf configuration. A narrow zigzag shows up better on bulkier fabrics.
Position the leaves as desired on the wreath form and glue in place.
Group together multiple felt balls and glue in place among the leaves.
Let the glue dry thoroughly before moving the wreath.
Add a bow if desired.

Options: Instead of all leaf shapes, cut some pumpkins, witch hats or turkey shapes to add to the mix.

Don’t throw away the sweater scraps—they’re ideal for another project—perhaps some winter mittens! The sweater ribbing is perfect to use as-is for the cuffs on mittens.

~Linda Griepentrog is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and three dogs, Yohnuh, Abby, and Lizzie. Contact her at gwizdesigns@aol.com.

November 14, 2025

Gabbing about Gussets

Sandhill Sling bag from Noodlehead Designs

If you’ve made bags, totes or packs, you may have had to deal with a gusset or two.

So, what’s a gusset?

The word gusset doesn’t roll easily off the tongue and may not be something of common knowledge. But the purpose of this design detail is to add depth and more room to a project. Rather than creating a perfectly flat tote, bag or purse with just a back and front, it’s handy to have space for more items inside.

A gusset is basically a strip of fabric that goes fully or partially around a bag for this purpose. Most gussets also feature a zipper opening for access to the interior of the bag. A gusset also allows a bag to stand on its own.

Gussets on Garments: Gussets in garments are pieces of fabric inserted to add width, strength, or comfort. They’re commonly found in areas that need extra ease of movement, such as the underarms of sleeves or the crotch of pants. Sewing gussets into clothing is a different process than adding them to bags or totes.

Gussets can be the same width throughout or can be wider at the bottom tapering to narrow or non-existent by the time they get to the upper bag edge.

Adding a continuous band around a base shape can be tricky—not only are there corners or curves involved, but the gusset has to fit the piece exactly so there are no puckers or gaps, and if the bag has square corners, you don’t want any pleats at the corners.

Piece by Piece

If your bag has a zipper closing, you’ll likely have two upper gusset pieces to cut—one for each side of the zipper. If the bag is lined, there will be four upper gusset pieces—two outer fabric and two lining fabric.

While some gussets are constructed slightly differently, the pattern guidesheet should detail the process, but shown here is the general process for most bag gussets.

To construct a zippered upper gusset, place the zipper tape face down on one gusset with the long edges matching and baste in place close to the edge (1).

If the gusset is lined, place the lining piece right sides together with the gusset and stitch in place along the seam line. Press both gusset layers away from the zipper and topstitch (2).

If the zipper is longer than the gusset, unzip it halfway and sew across the end several times, then trim off to match the gusset length. Repeat for the other end if needed (3).

With right sides together, sew the bottom gusset to the top gusset across the gusset width. This creates a circle which should fit your bag back and front exactly. Press the seam in one direction and topstitch through all layers (4).

Note that if your bag is lined, the lining lower gusset will be part of the seam (5)—check instructions for your specific bag.

Now comes the fun part—attaching the completed gusset to the bag front and back. Pin-mark the top and bottom gusset centers, then fold those marks to match, and mark. This divides the gusset into equal quarters. Create those same sectional markings on the bag back and front (6).

With right sides together, match the quarter markings on the bag with the same on the gusset starting at the top center and clip the layers together (7). If the bag back has rounded corners, slash into the gusset seam allowance only and spread apart to round the corners.

Clip all layers together (8). If the bag has square corners, slash the gusset once and spread at the corner seam. Start along one side and sew the gusset to the bag section around the perimeter, allowing the gusset notches to spread around the corners. No puckers!

With the zipper partially open to allow for turning, repeat the process to attach the remaining gusset side to the remaining section of the bag. Yes, it’s a bit like standing on your head for this step as you’re wrestling the other side and gusset but stay the course and keep an even seam allowance. Turn the project right side out and check for any puckers or pleats. Trim the seam allowance if the pattern directs. Voila—gusset installed!

Complete the project per the pattern instructions.

November 7, 2025

A Kantha Jacket

Some years ago, I wandered onto a website selling the beautiful clothing of designer Mieko Mintz. I was fascinated by her reversible patchwork jackets and vests. These colorful garments were crafted from fabric known as kantha. I wanted a kantha jacket—I was shocked by the prices, though. $1200 for a simple cotton jacket? As usual, I thought, “I can make one myself!”

Mieko’s website describes kantha as layers of old sari fabric hand-stitched together. This craft originated in Bengal, India.

Kantha were traditionally believed to protect users from harm and could help achieve happiness and prosperity. Some of the kantha designs appeared to be randomly patched scraps of fabric, and others seemed to be made of solid saris. They often have beautiful border designs that become focal points in Mieko Mintz’s garments. Mieko uses some vintage fabrics but also creates new fabrics for her clothing designs. [1]

Author Ekta Kaul describes kantha as a form of women’s art in India. Layers of old cloth, once used by family members, provide memories of loved ones. Women made kanthas in various sizes to celebrate rites of passage or to add beauty to their homes, much like our quiltmaker friends do. Today, kantha production has evolved into an industry in India, offering financial independence to many women. [2]

During a stroll through a Houston Heights antique mall a couple of years ago, I found a stack of kantha throws. “Get one,” my husband said. Don often aids and abets my sewing addiction. We selected a throw made of colorful silk fabrics. I took it home and draped it over a bench in my living room. It looked lovely there. Occasionally, I spread it out and tried to decide how I could cut the fabrics to create a pleasing arrangement for a jacket.

A few months later, the Marcy Tilton website offered several vintage kantha throws. I fell in love with one that had a border on all four edges and a beautiful color scheme. I ordered another kantha throw.

I searched for the perfect pattern. I wanted a reversible jacket with just a few seams. One night, while scrolling through Pinterest, I stumbled upon an out-of-print pattern for a reversible jacket. Vogue 2709 is a design by Koos Van Den Akker. Ignoring the appliques and chenille overlay, the pattern was perfect for my kantha jacket! I ordered the pattern from an Etsy dealer and it arrived a few days later.

Still, I hesitated to cut into the kantha throw. Upon receiving the notice about the ASG Houston 2025 fall luncheon and learning about the speaker, Bianca Springer, who creates garments from quilts, I was inspired to start working on my jacket!

I chose the throw I had purchased from Marcy Tilton because I thought the borders would complement the front and bottom edges of my jacket nicely. I spread the kantha throw on my dining table and experimented with different pattern placements. I was pleased to discover that there would be little fabric waste, but that meant that I had to lay out my pattern carefully. I was delighted to find a remnant of dupioni silk in my stash that was the perfect color to make the bindings. The jacket came together quickly, and I finished it in time to wear to the ASG luncheon. Now I am looking for ideas to sew up my other kantha throw. Maybe a long vest?

If you are interested in sewing with kantha fabric, there are some things to consider. If you purchase a “vintage” throw, your kantha may have worn spots. The throws are made from old fabric and may have endured daily use in a home. A vintage throw may require some mending or patching.

A vintage kantha throw might be dirty. Mine had a strong smell. It also had some worn spots, and I wondered whether to wash it myself or take it to the dry cleaner. My throw was made of cotton, and I guessed it had likely been washed many times. I decided to sew the jacket first. I hand-washed a scrap and saw that the water seemed very dirty. I decided to wash it on the delicate cycle with a gentle detergent in my washing machine. Then I air-dried it. A few spots showed slight fraying. I did some hand stitches to reinforce those areas, and I think my stitches blend in well with the original stitching.

If you would prefer to work with new kantha fabric, look for a kantha bedspread. Check the bed linen departments at major retail stores or look on Amazon or Etsy. I have also seen kantha by the yard on bolts at quilting shops. The fabric, stitching quality, and number of fabric layers will vary.

Some websites that sell Mieko Mintz’s clothing are listed below. These are great websites to gain design inspiration for other sewing projects as well.

By the way, I submitted photos of my kantha jacket to the Marcy Tilton blog (Marcy Tilton’s Blog for Everyday Creatives – Marcy Tilton Fabrics). Pictures of my jacket were included in her Sew &Tell – Summer Favorites, and I received a $50 gift card for March Tilton fabric!

Ekta Kaul’s book, Kantha: Sustainable Textiles and Mindful Making, describes the history and styles of kantha and illustrates many types of kantha stitches and embroidery used in the craft. She also introduces several textile artists who incorporate kantha in their work. There are pages and pages of beautiful photography.

[1] Mieko Mintz LLC (n.d.). Our Story. Mieko Mintz. Retrieved September 22, 2025, fromhttps://miekomintz.com/

[2] Kaul, E. (2024). Kantha: Sustainable Textiles and Mindful Making. Herbert Press, p.12-17.

by Deborah Turkleson, ASG Member, Houston chapter

October 31, 2025

On a Roll—DIY Continuous Bias

If you need bias for binding a quilt, trimming a jacket, or encasing edges on a placemat or other craft project, this tutorial is for you. Sometimes ready-made bias tape just isn’t right for your project, or maybe you want a custom color or pattern, so the simple answer is to make your own.

One way to make bias is to simply cut 45° strips of fabric and tediously sew the ends of the strips together with diagonal seams. That works, but it’s a bit time consuming. It’s much easier to create continuous bias.

In the Beginning

Continuous bias begins with a square of fabric. The size of that square is determined by two factors—the width of the bias strip you need, and the length you need. There are free online calculators to determine the square dimension, but this chart offers some common options:

Choosing Fabric Square Size

Length Needed	1 1/2″ Strips	2″ Strips	2 1/2″ Strips	3″ Strips
110″	14″ square	16” square	18” square	20” square
220″	19″ square	23” square	26” square	28” square
340″	23″ square	28” square	32” square	35” square
480″	28″ square	33” square	37” square	40” square

Chart courtesy of quiltingdaily.com

Cutting Up

Mark the appropriate size square diagonally from corner to corner and mark the center of the left and right sides. Cut the square in half diagonally (1).

With right sides together, match the center dots on the short triangle sides and sew the triangles together using a ¼” seam allowance. Press the seam open (2). The result is a parallelogram.

Using a permanent marker, pen or pencil, mark lines parallel to the long edges of the parallelogram for the chosen binding width (3). The lines should be on the fabric wrong side. Note: Don’t use a heat-removable pen, as you will be pressing during the bias-making process and the lines will disappear.

Fold the short sides of the parallelogram right side together forming a tube and off-set the lines by one strip width. Note: It’s important to offset the drawn lines or you won’t create continuous bias, only strips. Match the drawn lines at the ¼” seam line (not the edges) and stitch the seam (4).

(continued) Note that the folded piece will not lie flat because of the off-set. The piece will have an off-set row at both the top and the bottom (4a). Press the seam open.

Cut along the drawn line, through one layer only, beginning at the off-set edge, and you will have a spiral of bias in your chosen width (5). You’ll need to use scissors for this process as you’re cutting in a spiral—a rotary cutter won’t work.

Strip to Tape

Roll the bias and continue with your project directions. If you want double bias, press the strip in half lengthwise, matching the raw edges. If you want single bias with a folded edge, press under ¼” along the length of one edge.

If you want double-fold bias tape, press ¼” under on both long edges, then press the strip in half.

Make It Easy

For easier bias tape folding, use a bias tape maker in a size to coordinate with the size of your cut strip and desired finished width. Simply slide the strip into the tape maker and press as it exits the folding channel.

October 24, 2025

Wrap Mastery: Fall Wraps & Shawls to Elevate Your Wardrobe

There’s something magical about the first real chill of fall. The trees are showing off, pumpkin spice has returned, and sewists everywhere are pulling out soft wools, plush knits, and cozy flannels. If you’re craving a quick, satisfying project that adds warmth and style to your wardrobe, a fall wrap, cover-up, or shawl might be just what you need. These pieces are endlessly versatile — part accessory, part statement, and all comfort.

Let’s explore some favorite styles and how you can make your own.

The Classic Rectangle Wrap

Think of the rectangle wrap as the “little black dress” of outerwear sewing — simple, timeless, and always right. It’s essentially a large piece of fabric that drapes elegantly around your shoulders, and yet it can look completely different depending on fabric choice and finishing. A simple rectangular wrap can be folded in half and belted for a cape-like look or draped over one shoulder with a brooch for instant sophistication. This shawl is the perfect excuse to add a new wearable art technique to your repertoire.

Best fabrics: Wool blends, cashmere, flannel, or heavier knits for warmth; lightweight challis or double gauze for transitional weather.

How to make it:

Cut a rectangle anywhere from 28″ to 42″ wide and 60″ to 84″ long. Shorter lengths make for a skimpier wrap that tends not to stay put.
When determining length, consider personal preferences (longer lengths tend to be more dramatic) as well as the proportions of the wearer (80″ of fabric can overwhelm a petite person).
Finish the edges with a narrow hem, fringe, or a decorative blanket stitch.
For added polish, consider adding a contrast binding or leather toggle closure.

The Ruana: The Best of Both Worlds

If a poncho and a shawl had a stylish child, it would be the ruana. Traditionally South American in origin, the ruana drapes beautifully while offering easy arm movement thanks to its open front. A ruana starts with about two yards of 45″-wide fabric.

For the simplest ruana, follow the diagram shown below. Try it on to check the proportions. If it’s too long, cut an equal amount off the lower edges on both front and back. Depending on your fabric, you may also want to cut away 2 1/2″ to 3″ on each side of the front opening so it falls smoothly around your neck. Finish all the raw edges. If it suits the fabric, consider self-fringe for the lower edges. The ruana looks equally great tossed over jeans and boots or layered over a dress. You can add a belt for shaping or even line it with a contrasting fabric for a fully reversible version.

Cocoon Wrap

The cocoon wrap also begins life as a flat rectangle. It is constructed with a front opening that goes approximately one-third up the length of the fabric and has side seams with deep armhole openings. When it is on the body, the short neck opening causes the garment to shift so that it is longer in the back. The front opening will cascade into a lapel-like effect. It’s beautiful in a variety of fabrics, including wool, lightweight wovens, and sheers. If you’re a frequent airline traveler, consider making one in fleece so it can serve as a combination traveling cloak and blanket.

The Poncho-Style Cover-Up

A poncho is like a wearable hug — roomy, stylish, and surprisingly easy to sew. You can make one with minimal shaping, no pattern required.

How to make it:

Start with a square or rectangle of fabric about 45″–50″ wide and long.
Fold it in half and cut a small neckline (try a shallow oval about 6″ wide).
Finish the neckline with bias binding, a facing, or even a cozy turtleneck collar cut from a rib knit.
For extra flair, add side seams with button or snap closures, leaving 8–10 inches open at the bottom for movement. Try sewing it from plaid flannel for a casual vibe or boiled wool for something more refined.

Pro tip: Fringe or decorative topstitching around the edges adds a custom touch without much effort.

Triangles make great wraps, too.

The easiest shape is a square, folded diagonally. Let the width of the fabric (48″, 54″, or 60″) dictate the size of the square. If you are embellishing your shawl and want to conceal its wrong side, cut two triangles, embellish one, and then sew the two together. Using the cutting diagram below, 3 1/2 yards of 45″-wide fabric will give you two ample triangles. If you want the shawl to have a larger presence, add fringe to the outer edges.

The Capelet: Small but Mighty

When you want just a touch of warmth without overwhelming your outfit, a capelet hits the sweet spot. It’s shorter than a cape and perfect for highlighting collars, buttons, or jewelry.

Sewing inspiration: Use a pattern designed for wovens or repurpose a vintage coat pattern by cropping it to shoulder length. Lightweight wool, boucle, or quilted fabrics are excellent choices. Add details like a Peter Pan collar, large buttons, or a satin lining for a polished finish.

The Shoulder Wrap

Larger than a scarf, but not a full shawl, this is great to wear as an accessory or to ward off a bit of chill in the air. The one pictures is approximately 7′ long and 20″ wide and is made from folded strips of fabric that are serged together.

The Blanket Scarf Shawl

If “cozy chic” is your fall aesthetic, the blanket scarf shawl delivers in spades. Oversized and effortlessly fashionable, it’s perfect for layering and snuggling.

How to make it:

Cut a large square, about 50″ x 50″.
Fringe the edges or hem them narrowly.
For a reversible twist, sew two coordinating flannels or lightweight wools wrong sides together, turning and topstitching around the edge.
Wear it diagonally across the body, belted at the waist, or simply draped around the neck. It’s one of those accessories that looks like you “just threw it on” but makes any outfit instantly more stylish.

Fabric and Finish Ideas

Plaid flannel: Classic and cozy — just be sure to match those checks!
Sweater knits: Drape beautifully and require minimal sewing.
Boiled wool: Doesn’t fray, so you can leave raw edges for a modern, minimalist finish.
Tweed or boucle: Add instant texture and luxury.
Try embellishing your wrap with appliqué, embroidery, or even a few hand-sewn beads for a personal touch. A coordinating pin or handmade belt can also transform the look.

Embellishments

When it comes to embellishments, it’s a big wide world. Here are just a few ideas:

Fabric dyeing. If you can’t find the colorway you desire, you can tie-dye, vat dye, sponge print, or even spray die to get the print and colors that suit your fancy.
Machine embroidery. With limitless possibilities, the only caveat is to pay attention to scale and/or repetition so the motif doesn’t disappear into the folds of your wrap. And think about how your finished wrap will look on both sides. If this is a problem, consider these two solutions: create free-standing machine embroidery motifs that can be appliquéd in place or line/self-line the wrap.
Edgings. Ruffles, feathers, fringe, pleating, beading, even embroidered appliques are all fabulous ways to define the edges of your wrap.

Wrapping It Up (Pun Intended)

Fall sewing is all about comfort meeting creativity. Wraps, cover-ups, and shawls are ideal projects whether you’re a beginner looking for a no-pattern project or an experienced sewist seeking to play with texture and design. They’re quick, functional, and satisfyingly stylish — the sewing equivalent of a warm cup of cider. So go ahead: pull out that fabric you’ve been saving, grab your rotary cutter, and make yourself something fabulous to bundle up in. When the leaves fall and the air turns crisp, you’ll be wrapped in your own handmade warmth — and style.