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September 25, 2026

Turn the Corner on Your Tote

Some design details can make or break the look of a handmade tote, and corners are key to a professional look.

Boxed corners add depth to an otherwise flat bag, allowing it to hold more “stuff” and maintain its shape while being carried or stored. Most boxed corners feature only an inverted T appearance with the side seam artfully intersecting a horizontal seam at the base.

To create a traditional boxed corner:

  • Stitch the side and bottom seam of the tote, then fold the side seam directly on top of the bottom seam. To create a 4” deep tote base, draw a 2” line on each side of the stitched seam forming a triangle, then sew across the drawn line.
  • Trim the excess fabric triangle, leaving a 1/4” seam.
  • Turn the bag right side out and press.

A traditional boxed corner is functional, but why not add a bit more interest and put the corner structure on the outside of the bag? There are two ways to create visible corners.

Outside point

Outside corner with screw
  • To create an outside point, place the bag front and back right sides together and stitch the side and lower edge seams, forming a right angle. (Depending on the pattern, there may not be a lower edge seam, but a fold instead.)
  • Fold the bag with wrong sides together and lay the side seam directly over the center bottom seam, forming a triangle on the outside.
  • Fold the point up to meet the side seamline forming a box shape of the desired width—usually 2”-4” wide, depending on the tote size.
  • Now comes the fun—anchor the point in place by sewing on a decorative button or inserting a Chicago screw near the triangle point.

What’s a Chicago screw?

A Chicago screw is a threaded barrel-and-screw fastener used when you want a secure hold. There is a male screw portion and it’s inserted into the female threaded portion. One or both ends have a screw-like head on them and the outer shaft is smooth for easy insertion through multiple fabric layers.

Chicago Screw available on Amazon
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The fasteners come in different colors, diameters and lengths. For most tote-weight fabrics, a 1/4” – 3/8” shaft is ideal.

Use an awl to punch a small hole in the multiple fabric layers before inserting the screw shaft. Add the backing portion and tighten in place.

Pleated Outside Corner

Pleated outside corner
Pleated outside corner

This technique creates an outside point, much like the freestanding one noted above, but this method encases the triangle point in the side seam, forming a pleat on each side.

  • To create this point, sew the side seam of the project stopping at the desired tote depth from the bottom seam allowance or fold. For example, if the finished tote is 4” deep, leave open approximately 4” along the bottom portion of the side seam.
  • Pinch the lower corner of the bottom and bring it to the top of the opening. Depending on your pattern, there may or may not be a seam at the lower tote edge.
  • {pleated tote folding photos 1 and 2 and/or illustration}
  • Align the edges of all the layers and finish sewing the side seam starting at the upper opening point.
  • Turn the tote right side out, shape and press the lower corners.
Pleated outside corner instructions

~Linda Griepentrog is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and three dogs, Yohnuh, Abby, and Lizzie. Contact her at gwizdesigns@aol.com.

September 18, 2026

Drawstrings in Children’s Clothing: What Sewists Should Know

A drawstring can make a child’s garment easy to adjust. But it can also create a hazard if a loose end catches on playground equipment, furniture, or another object.

Young children can be seriously injured—or even killed—when drawstrings on their outerwear become caught on nearby objects. Playground slides, handrails, school bus doors, and other moving equipment are among the places where these dangerous entanglements can occur.

Federal Rules on Drawstrings in Children’s Clothing

Anyone who sews clothing for children should understand the Consumer Product Safety Commission’s (CPSC) safety requirements for drawstrings on children’s upper outerwear. More specifically, those garments generally intended to be worn over other clothing.

CPSC defines “upper outerwear” as clothing such as jackets, ski vests, anoraks, and sweatshirts that generally are intended to be worn on the exterior of other garments, including lightweight outerwear that is appropriate for use in warmer climates.

  • Underwear, inner clothing layers, pants, shorts, swimwear, dresses and skirts are not considered upper outerwear.
  • Belts are not considered drawstrings and are not subject to the requirements.
  • Ties are considered drawstrings and are subject to the requirements.
  • Underwear and inner layers are excluded.

Children’s upper outerwear sold in the United States should comply with the voluntary safety standard, ASTM F-1816 Standard Consumer Safety Specification for Drawstrings on Children’s Upper Outerwear.

For upper outerwear in sizes 2T through 12, hood and neck drawstrings are completely prohibited. A child’s hoodie, for example, should not have a cord that tightens its hood. Elastic, snaps, buttons, or other suitable closures can provide fit without a dangling string. Note that ties (a closure that can tie, snap or buckle and is attached to the garment through an eyelet, sewn into a seam or run through a casing) are also considered drawstrings and are subject to the regulation.

For outerwear in sizes 2T through 16, drawstrings at the waist or bottom edge are permitted only within specific limits. When the garment is opened to its fullest width, a drawstring must extend no more than three inches outside its channel. Free ends cannot have knots, toggles, cord locks, or other attachments. If one continuous string runs through the channel, it must be secured at the midpoint so it cannot be pulled through to one side. Garments featuring fully retractable drawstrings are exempt. These details matter: even a neatly finished knot or decorative bead can give a loose cord another way to snag.

What about dresses, pants, and shorts?

This is an important distinction for garment sewists. The upper outerwear rule does not classify dresses, skirts, pants, or shorts as upper outerwear. That means its specific size ranges and three-inch measurement should not be presented as a legal rule for every child’s dress or pair of pants. It does not, however, mean a drawstring on those garments is automatically safe.

If you are sewing a child’s dress, consider how it will be worn. A sash attached at the side seams, a short tie at the back, or a decorative bow can give the look of a drawstring without a long cord sliding freely around the garment. Keep ties short enough that they will not trail, loop around objects, or hang where a child might step on them. Check that any decoration is securely attached, especially on clothing for very young children.

For pants and shorts, an elastic waistband often supplies the adjustment a child needs without any exposed cord. If you choose a functional waist drawstring, keep the ends short and avoid knots, beads, toggles, and long loops. Secure the string so one end cannot be pulled much farther out than the other. Check the fit on the child: a cord that looks short on the sewing table may hang differently when the waistband is gathered or the child bends and plays. These are practical precautions, not a claim that the upper outerwear rule legally governs pants.

Give the finished garment a child’s-eye inspection

Before gifting or donating children’s clothing, look beyond the pattern photograph. Fully loosen and tighten every adjustable area. Are there long free ends? Could a loop catch on a slide, door handle, or chair? Could a cord slip through its casing and become much longer on one side? Repeat the inspection after laundering, when ties may shift.

Pay particular attention to garments intended for active play. The CPSC’s playground guidance advises against children wearing clothing with drawstrings, straps, or cords while using playground equipment. If a pattern includes a feature you are unsure about, changing the closure is often easier than trying to make a dangling cord work safely. Read the CPSC playground guidance.

Children’s clothing can be playful and beautifully made without relying on long, loose ties. Knowing where the federal upper outerwear rule applies—and checking drawstrings on other garments with the same care—can help you make thoughtful choices for the children who will wear the garments you create.


~American Sewing Guild

September 11, 2026

Quilting Your Own Fabric

How many times have you vowed to not acquire any more fabric until you use up (at least some) what you have in your stash? I’ve said it many times, and the commitment has lasted only until the next sale or caring friend who says, “Do you know anyone who would like…? (and the word fabric is in the same sentence).”

Grainline Studio Tamarack Jacket

Recently I was with a friend who was making Grainline Studio’s Tamarack Jacket, and it looked like a fun project. Something a bit different from my standard coastal attire sweatshirt dé jour. I searched the stash and realized I didn’t have enough of any single suitable fabric to make the entire jacket, but I did have one piece that would work for the lining. So pattern mixing to the rescue!

One of my favorite color combinations, and likely not shared by many, is orange and hot pink. I had a groovy knit dress back in the late ‘60s and that color combo always made me happy. So, lo and behold there were several related pieces in the stash to combine for the jacket—one enough for sleeves, another for the fronts and yet another for the back.

But I needed to quilt them. Easy-peazy! If you’ve never quilted your own fabric, let me just take you through the simple process.

  • Using a removable marker, trace the rough shape of your pattern piece onto the outer fabric layer. If there are multiple pieces to be cut from the same fabric, leave 2” between the traced pieces.
  • Choose your batting carefully—too thick of a batting and you’ll look like the Michelin Man. A thin cotton batting, or even flannel works best for garment sewing. Check the label of the filler as some battings and flannels can shrink up to 6% which wreaks havoc with garment fitting.
  • Be sure to preshrink—run flannel yardage through the washer and dryer; soak cotton batting in hot water, pat out excess moisture and roll in a towel, then hang to dry. If you prefer using a dryer, put it into a lingerie bag or pillowcase to avoid damage… and be sure to clean your lint filter!
  • Layer the backing fabric wrong side up, then the batting, then the outer fabric right side up. Generously pin the layers together. If you prefer, use a temporary spray adhesive to hold the backing and outer fabric flat against the batting. Be sure the fabric/batting layers are smooth and wrinkle free. If you’re using multiple fabrics in the project like I did, you’ll have separate pieces to layer and quilt.
layering fabric
  • Set the machine for a slightly longer than normal stitch length (3-3.5). Install a new needle and if you have one, use a walking foot. A quilting guide is helpful for spacing. The thread can be matching or contrasting depending on the desired finished look. The bobbin thread can match the top thread, or not.
  • Begin by marking a line down the center of your largest pattern piece then decide how far apart you want the quilting lines to be. I chose 1 1/2”, but you can go wider or narrower. Stitch on the initial line you drew extending the stitches about 1” outside the drawn perimeter. Continue drawing lines across the entire pattern piece or use your quilting guide to measure the distance from your needle and align the guide with the previous row of stitching. Always stitch in the same direction on the fabric (the quilting guide can extend to the left or right of the foot) and from the center of the piece outward.
  • Continue stitching across the entire pattern shape.
  • Lay the paper pattern back on the quilted section and cut out the piece. Note that you likely will not be cutting exactly on your original drawn lines as there is some “take up” when quilting and the joined fabric layers will pull up slightly.
  • Quilt and cut each garment section, remembering that you need both a right and left garment half so be sure to flop over the pattern piece.
  • If your fabric has a pattern to it, that could provide a fun quilting pattern, so you don’t have to simply use vertical or horizontal lines. I quilted along the fabric print waves on my jacket front.

Inside Scoop

If your mom told you that your sewn garments should look as nice on the inside as they do on the outside, consider binding the quilted seam edges—a nice finish to hide the multi-layer adventure.

Choose a fun print or solid and cut 2”-wide bias strips for binding. Press the strip in half, then press each raw edge to the center forming a double fold. Apply the binding to the seam edges, either totally by machine, or finish by hand.

Bound Edges
Bound Seam
Bound Slit Opening

~Linda Griepentrog is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and three dogs, Yohnuh, Abby, and Lizzie. Contact her at gwizdesigns@aol.com.

September 4, 2026

Never Stop Learning: Why Experienced Sewists Still Can Benefit From Education

There is a wonderful moment in every sewing enthusiast’s journey when the basics begin to feel natural. Seams are straighter, zippers are less intimidating, and pattern instructions no longer read like a foreign language. Over time, we build a reliable collection of techniques and develop our own preferred ways of working.

However, becoming accomplished does not mean there is nothing left to learn. Experience can make education even more valuable: a longtime sewist can quickly recognize why a new technique works and how it might solve a familiar problem more effectively.

Fall Virtual Conference

That spirit of continued growth is at the heart of this year’s Fall Virtual Conference, taking place September 24–26, 2026. The conference offers six online classes covering garment fitting, construction, embellishment, and creative reuse—proof that there is always another skill to explore or a familiar skill to examine from a fresh perspective.

Experience Is a Foundation, Not a Finish Line

Sewing knowledge is never truly complete. Fabrics and equipment evolve, pattern companies use different drafting styles, and teachers develop new approaches to longstanding challenges. Our bodies and wardrobe needs change, too. What fit and worked ten years ago may need to be reconsidered today.

Two conference sessions address fitting from complementary directions. Progressive Fit: An Approach to Pattern Success with Susan Lazear focuses on a more reliable path toward a well-fitting garment, while Pants: Beyond the Basics—Efficient Workflow for Fitting with Jennifer Stern-Hasemann tackles one of garment sewing’s most persistent challenges. A better order of adjustments, clearer way to read wrinkles, or improved method for evaluating a muslin may eliminate hours of trial and error.

The conference also includes Pattern Hacks: A “Baker’s Dozen” of Fitting Tips & Techniques with Pam Howard. Pattern “hacking” encourages us to see a commercial pattern as a starting point rather than a fixed set of pieces. Small changes can improve comfort, proportion, or style and transform a familiar pattern into something uniquely suited to the wearer.

A Fresh Look at Familiar Tools

Continuing education is not only about learning something completely new. Sometimes it reveals capabilities in tools we already own.

In Master Techniques—Machine Embroidery on Clothing with Joi Mahon, participants can explore how embroidery becomes part of a garment rather than simply an added decoration. Placement, stabilization, scale, and design all affect whether embroidery looks thoughtfully integrated. An experienced sewist may understand construction beautifully but still discover better ways to plan embroidery before the first seam is sewn.

Likewise, Serging Beyond the Basics with Joanne Banko offers an opportunity to move past using the serger only for seam finishing. Learning additional applications can improve efficiency, expand design options, and inspire us to use specialty feet, stitches, or settings we have overlooked.

Serger

Creativity Grows When We Step Outside Routine

Longtime sewists will become highly efficient, but routine can quietly narrow creativity. We reach for the same fabrics, silhouettes, and construction methods because we know they work. Education interrupts that pattern in the best possible way.

BORO: Making Something Out of Nothing with June Colburn brings a different creative perspective to the conference. Rooted in resourcefulness, boro-inspired stitching invites us to layer, mend, combine, and celebrate materials that might otherwise be discarded. For a sewist accustomed to precise construction, this freer approach may open a new direction for personal expression.

Learning Also Restores Momentum

Every sewer experiences periods when enthusiasm fades. Projects feel repetitive, fitting frustrations pile up, or unfinished garments become discouraging. A class can provide the spark that gets us moving again. An instructor’s demonstration can make a difficult task seem manageable, while learning with others reminds us that every sewist encounters challenges!

The virtual format makes that renewal especially accessible. Classes can be enjoyed from home, without travel or the need to transport machines and supplies. Replays will be available for 30 days (you must register before the conference), allowing you to revisit demonstrations, pause for notes, or watch again while trying a technique.


You can register for individual sessions at $35/class for members, or $45/class for non-members. Buy all six classes for the cost of five!


Perhaps the greatest benefit of ongoing education is not any single technique, but the reminder that sewing still holds surprises. No matter how many garments we have completed, there is another approach to fitting, another use for a machine, another creative tradition, or another teacher who can help us see our work differently.

Experience gives us confidence. Continued learning keeps that confidence flexible, curious, and alive. Join ASG online September 24–26 and give yourself the pleasure of discovering what your next stitch can teach you!

Fall 2026 Virtual Conference Registration

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August 28, 2026

DIY Tassel Tricks

Who doesn’t love a fun tassel to decorate a new project? Sure, you can buy tassels of all sorts, but why do that when you can create your own custom pieces.

Tassels on a jacket

Tassels can be used for all kinds of things—from zipper pulls to tote bag adornments. String several tiny ones together for an innovative necklace or belt. Tie them onto packages as an accent or add a wire to create sweeping earrings.

Thread types

Tassels can be made from all kinds of strands—solid or variegated threads of any weight or type, yarns, trims, baby rickrack, skinny suede strips, raffia, tiny cords, etc.—anything flexible enough to wrap and tie. Use one kind of thread, or multiple strands of various threads. And, don’t stop there—add in some beads, charms, etc. for extra embellishment or combine thread colors and textures for more interest.

Wrap and go

There are several different ways to make tassels, including using some readymade tools designed specifically for the process.

A simple tassel can be made using cardboard or a piece of sturdy foam as the template for wrapping. Cut the cardboard to the desired finished height of your tassel and 3”-4” wide.

Closely wrap threads around the cardboard until you create a bundle with half the desired fullness you like. Push the threads together tightly. Holding the bundle firmly, slide it off the cardboard, wrap a separate piece of thread tightly around the tassel a short distance from the top, and tie off.

Do not trim the ends of the wrapping strand but instead continue wrapping the ends around the tassel top, then tie off again and bury the thread ends into the tassel wrapped portion. Thread another strand through the folded upper loop to use as a hanger or attachment to your project. Cut the lower looped edges and trim as needed, or leave the ends looped.

Fold and go

This method works best for thinner thread tassels. Similar to the wrap-and-go method above, the fold-and-go method uses a piece of cardboard with the center cut out. Wrap thread about the cardboard to the desired fullness (half of the finished look), then use your sewing machine to stitch the center of the strands together using a dense satin stitch. Leave the thread ends long enough to weave back into the wrapped area. Cut the ends of the wrapped tassel strands and fold the tassel in half. Using a wider, dense satin stitch, sew the edges of the wrapped areas together forming a loop at the upper edge. Thread a strand through the top for hanging or attaching to the project.

Easy peasy

To make tassel making even easier, begin with a skein of embroidery floss, in any color or weight. Cut off a length of the thread, and tightly wrap and tie the center of the skein and tie off to form a hanging loop. Fold the entire skein in half and wrap/tie again a short distance from the top fold. Tuck the loose ends into the wrapped area. Trim the lower looped ends of the tassel strands. Voila…a quick and easy option!

And there’s more…

*Instead of thread or yarn to create your tassels, consider stitching out lengths of serger chain and use that for the strands and wrapping. Any type of thread is fair game, from glitzy metallics to slinky rayon or fuzzy wool strands. After the tassel is done, use a fray stopper or fabric glue on the ends of the strands to keep them from unravelling.

Serger Chain Tassel

Tassel Tips

  • Check out readymade topper caps (available on Amazon. Note we may receive a small commission if you make a purchase). They can be metal, wood or plastic and you simply slip your custom tassel top into the cap and glue it in place. Some caps also come with clips to attach them to your project, or with earring wires for jewelry.
  • Use a large bead for a tassel topper. The hole needs to be large enough for the tassel to be glued firmly into it.
  • Make larger tassels to use for home décor projects, whether you adorn the corners of a pillow or you use a larger tassel for a shade pull. If you use them on pillow corners, stitch the attachment loop into the seam as you join the pillow front and back.

Thank you to Bernina for use of select images.


~Linda Griepentrog is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and three dogs, Yohnuh, Abby, and Lizzie. Contact her at gwizdesigns@aol.com.

 

Tagged With: diy, embellishment, tassels

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