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October 10, 2025

Seeking Creativity

The first time he walked by me, I wasn’t sure he even saw me. The second time, he did glance my way.

The third time, however, he paused and asked, “Are you OK?”

“Yes,” I replied, and he walked on.

Woman hugging fabric

But it was the fourth time that he stopped and said, “What are you doing? Why are you just sitting there holding fabric?”

“Seeking creativity,” I responded.

The look on his face told me he didn’t understand, and no matter what I said, I knew he would never understand. Despite the fact that we have been together for nearly 50 years, he still doesn’t “get” my fascination with fabric. How could he? He has never sewn. He has never held a cozy velour and fantasized about all it could be—a jacket, a top, a robe, even a pair of pants.

He doesn’t understand the loving effort it takes to select the perfect embroidery design to use to embellish an otherwise plain fabric. He doesn’t understand the enjoyment of seeing the design come to life as the stitches form.

How could I explain to him the multitude of possibilities that were racing through my mind for that one piece of fabric? My imagination had been nearly overwhelmed with all the potential. I could make that fabric into anything I wanted. I could select the type of garment. I could select the pattern and cut. I could make changes that even the pattern designer never dreamed of. I just needed time to sit and think and hold the fabric . . . time to dream.

I suddenly had a flashback to my ninth grade home ec class when my teacher told us to ask the fabric what it wanted to be. She told us to hold the fabric and talk to it. I remember thinking she was nuts. I remember the look we gave her.

That was the same look on his face. Oh no, did he think I was losing it? Was he going to start watching me for signs of dementia? I quickly recovered and said, “I’m just tired. I got this fabric out to make something and am just resting a minute before I climb the stairs to the sewing room.”

Relief flooded his face. Resting for a minute was something he could understand. “Oh,” he said, and off he went to his computer.

No, he would never understand my fascination with fabric or the process of creativity. He would not be able to talk the talk of designers. He would never just sit with me and experience the feel of a fabric. This was not something we could ever share. But that was OK. I was not alone. I picked up the phone and called an ASG sister.

There are just some things that only another sewer can understand.


Sometimes, we dig through the archives and find an oldie-but-goodie that we feel needs shared again. This article was written by Rosemary Fajgier who was a Princeton, N.J. Chapter founding member, was president of her chapter for four years and also served on the ASG National Board of Directors (BOD) as well as serving as National BOD Chair.

October 3, 2025

Taming Bulky Seams

It’s not often that I write about my personal sewing projects, but I’m currently making bags for our community’s upcoming holiday market, and I’ve been stitching up some very thick seams.

All patterns from Noodlehead Designs

I’m making Oxbow Totes, Sandhill Slings and Making Backpacks, all from Noodlehead Designs, and some of the seams are really thick—like eleven strata thick with multiple canvas, interfacing, foam, lining and webbing layers stacked atop each other.

This isn’t the only time our machines (and our patience) are called upon for thick seaming. Have you tried hemming denim jeans and cautiously approaching the flat-felled seams on the inner and/or outer legs? That can be a bit of a scary moment.

There are some challenges with thick seams, and sometimes some broken needles, but generally most of today’s sewing machines are up for the challenge if you follow some simple guidelines.

Be Thick Smart

  • Make sure your machine is clean, oiled and lint free. Snap off or unscrew the needle plate and brush out the lint and threads that have accumulated below. Follow the manufacturer’s guidelines for oiling to keep things running smoothly.
  • Use a new needle in a size large enough to accommodate the maximum number of fabric layers. Note that the needle can be a Universal, Denim or Sharp point, depending on the fabric density.
  • Swap out pins for spring clips to hold multiple layers in place. Pins will only bend as they try to secure too many layers. Spring clips are available in different sizes to “bite” various thicknesses. Stitch up to the clip, then remove it before continuing the stitching line.
  • If you have the option, set your machine for the “needle down” function. Keeping the needle in the fabric as you stop to adjust layers helps maintain an even seamline.
  • Use a longer than normal stitch length for construction and topstitching heavy layers and slow the stitching speed.
  • If you have a walking foot or dual-feed system, both can be helpful for even feeding of stacked layers.
  • Adjust the presser foot pressure on your machine if you can. Lighter pressure helps keep multiple layers from scooting as you sew seams.
  • Don’t push or pull the seams as you sew them. Let the machine feed dogs move the fabric through the machine at an even pace.
  • Use the handwheel to stitch to through extra-heavy areas or when you come close to zippers and/or fragile or bulky hardware areas.
  • Topstitch to help hold layers flat, whether seam allowances are pressed in one direction, or opened.
  • If you’re stitching various thicknesses in one pass—like hemming jeans over bulky seams—use a height compensation tool to stitch onto and off the extra-bulky areas. You may have one of these devices with your machine accessories, or you can purchase a generic version.
Bernina Height Compensation Tool
  • Always grade and/or trim seam allowances to reduce bulk. When grading seams, the layer closest to the outside of your project is left the longest, and the seam allowance widths get ever-so-slightly narrower as you work your way to the most inside-facing seam allowance. This helps to taper the bulk and avoids a sheer “drop-off” where all seam allowances end.
  • Anytime you can, reduce bulk by eliminating some layers from within the seam allowance. For example, trim foam to keep it outside the seamline or perhaps just barely caught in stitching to hold it in place.
  • If you do break a needle, be sure to carefully remove the broken bits so they don’t lodge in the bobbin area of the machine wreaking havoc.
  • For handwork areas, use a thimble to avoid piercing your fingertips while trying to push the needle through thick layers.
  • Fill the iron with plenty of water and press every seam in bulky fabrics. You’ll have much better control of the project than if you don’t press as you sew.

Following these simple tips can reduce your stress when sewing bulky seams and add a more professional look to your project.


~Linda Griepentrog is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and three dogs, Yohnuh, Abby, and Lizzie. Contact her at .

September 26, 2025

Tips for Professional Results with Pants

Sewing pants can be as simple or as challenging as the style you choose. For results that look truly professional, concentrate on three essentials: precise preparation for fit, skillful execution, and flawless finishing. Meticulous pressing, accurate cutting, and well-placed fitting adjustments are the details that elevate your work from homemade to high-end.

  • Cut with precision on the grain. Carefully align your pattern pieces with the fabric’s grainline to ensure the pants hang correctly and avoid leg twist, which is especially important for tight-fitting pants with stretch. 
  • Press every seam as you sew. First press the seam flat to “set” the stitches, then open the seam allowances and press them flat.
  • Pocket openings should lay flat against the body.
  • To avoid ripples in your seams when stitching, apply a bit of pressure to the seam on each side of the needle as you are sewing.
  • Handle waistbands with care: Use a medium-weight, not-stiff interfacing for your waistband. For a perfect fit, divide the waistband and pants in fourths to align and distribute gathers or ease evenly. For elastic waistbands, use wide elastic in a snug casing to prevent twisting. 
  • For a clean finish on a fly-front zipper, interface the facing for extra stability and use a template when topstitching.
  • Reinforce the bottom of the fly front curve with bar tacks using a dense zigzag stitch. This secures the zipper shield and reinforces a high-stress area.
  • Pants should be hemmed with a slight angle to the back, with no more than a 1/2″ to 1″ hem. However, note that in some cases, a deeper hem will give more weight and help the pants hang better.
  • Pleats should be pressed flat above the crotch line. If you like the crease in the pants to run the entire length of the leg, it should merge with the crease in the pleat.

Suggested Seam Allowances

Professional designers can often spot a home-sewn garment by its standard 5/8″ seam allowance, which can influence how the seam—and even the entire garment—hangs. The graphic below highlights the seam allowances more commonly used by designers.

A Bunch of Tips to Sew Better Pants

Cornelius Quiring started a personal journey to create adaptive clothing to fit his own body that had been damaged in a farm accident. His learning process has evolved into fitting and sewing tips that he shares with his viewers. This video shares tips on adjusting waistbands, crotch seams, and more.  


September 19, 2025

Greeting Cards Meet Creativity

Every card is a smile waiting to happen—but when you sew your own, you’re not just sending a message, you’re sending a handcrafted masterpiece.

Remember all those decorative stitches you just had to have when you purchased your machine? Maybe you have some fabric scraps that are too beautiful to toss, or leftover quilt squares. Cardmaking is a great place to use all of it with aplomb, so fire up your sewing machine and let the fun begin.

Getting started

Visit a craft store or shop online for card blanks. These are die-cut card stock available in various shapes—with frames in square, rectangular, circle or other cut-out shapes. These frames are also often available in the photo department of a store as the same item can be used to showcase photos, but we’re going to use fabric pieces instead.

Blank tri-fold cards available on Amazon (affilate link)

Double check that your frames are tri-fold, meaning that there’s a section of the card stock that goes behind whatever is showcased in the frame opening. That extra fold hides any stitching on the underside and makes it unseen by the card’s recipient. If the card frame isn’t a tri-fold, then you’ll need to plan something like a decorative paper panel to go behind your addition.

You can carefully cut your own card blanks with an X-Acto knife, or if you have a die-cutting machine, it’s easy to make your own card stock frames.

Many card blanks come with matching envelopes, but if not, check the craft store for coordinating envelopes in the proper size.

You’ll also need a glue stick or tape to anchor the stitched piece to your card frame.

Once you have the paper portion of your project selected, let it speak to you about what kind of stitched piece should go with it.

Almost anything is fair game for cardmaking—small bits of colorful fabric collaged together, pieced ribbon bits, leftover quilt blocks too good to throw away, machine embroidered test pieces, or specific pieces made for the card shape. It’s also a good opportunity to showcase novelty threads and embellishments of all sorts—from sequins to trims and everything in between.

Stitching up

If you’re hand stitcher, cards are a great place to showcase your stitchery. The space is relatively small and things sew up fast for framing.

If you prefer a quilted inset, use all or part of a leftover block to feature.

For machine sewers, the world is your oyster for stitch combinations to embellish the small size piece needed for cardmaking. Cards are also ideal just for showcasing a beautiful piece of fabric—sans any stitching.

  • No matter which technique you plan to use, it’s a good idea to stabilize the featured piece. A lightweight iron-on stabilizer is ideal for most circumstances, and a lightweight batting is great for quilting a small fabric block to fit your frame.
  • Before you stitch your featured piece, trace the frame opening size onto the fabric right side using a removable marker. This gives you lines to stitch within.
  • Extend any embellishment—stitching, trim, etc.—1/4” beyond the traced line and anchor all the threads securely. Then trim your finished piece 3/8” beyond the traced line with your feature area centered.
Linda Griepentrog
  • Open out the tri-fold section to showcase the frame opening, then place the featured fabric piece under the cut-out in the desired position. If you’re including ribbon or trim on top of the fabric, this is time to place it into position. Carefully apply glue or tape to the extension area underlap area only.
  • Before finishing the card, you can stitch around the opening shape if you want to. Use a small sharp needle and a medium stitch length. Too small of a stitch may damage the card stock. Bring threads to the underside and tie off to anchor—don’t backstitch.
  • To finish the card, fold the third panel over the underside of the fabric piece and lightly glue the corners in place. This hides the underside of your stitching. Allow to dry thoroughly.
  • Finally, write your heartfelt sentiments inside the card using a colorful marker and send it on its way!

All photos, except where noted, are reprinted with permission from Bernina

~Linda Griepentrog is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and three dogs, Yohnuh, Abby, and Lizzie. Contact her at .

September 12, 2025

How Deep is That Hem


Standard hem depths vary by garment to ensure proper drape and a polished appearance. A finished hem should be smooth, flat, and a uniform depth with enough weight to allow it to hang well. The style of the garment and the fabric’s weight will influence the appropriate hem depth. The following guidelines are a good place to start. Remember that these are just guidelines and that there’s more than one right way to finish your garment.

GARMENTSUGGESTED TYPE OF HEMTYPCIAL DEPTH OF HEM
Blouse, tucked inNarrow, double-folded, rolled1/4″ – 1/2″
Blouse, untuckedNarrow double-fold, possibly with small vents at the side.3/8″ – 3/4″
CoatBlindstitch with interfacing1 1/2″ – 2″
Dress, standard lengthBlindstitch, felled hem, or rolled hem.1 1/2″ – 2″ (typical)
1/2″ for sheer fabrics
>2″ for heavier fabrics
JacketBlindstitch with interfacing1 1/2″ – 2″
Women’s dress slacks*Blindstitch5/8″ – 1 1/4″
PulloverBlindstitch or topstitch3/8″ – 1 1/4″
ShirtTopstitch3/8″ – 5/8″
ShortsTopstitch5/8″ – 1 1/4″
Skirt, full or flaredBlindstitch or topstitch1/4″ – 3/8″
Skirt, A-line and StraightBlindstitch, or may use a faced hem.2″ – 3″
TopBlindstitch or topstitch3/4″ – 1 1/4″
Men’s Trousers*Blindstitch, double fold, straight, rolled or faced. 2″

Notes:

* Pant break: The finished length of the pants is described by the “break,” which refers to the fold created where the pant leg meets the shoe.

  • No break: A modern, clean look where the pant hem rests just above the shoe.
  • Medium or half break: A classic, traditional length with a single, slight crease where the pants meet the shoe.
  • Full break: A longer, more conservative length with a generous fold that covers most of the shoelaces. 

Sewing a blind hem by hand:

Sewing a blind hem by machine:


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