Some people call them junk mail, but personally, I LOVE to get catalogs in the mail! I’ve signed up to get paper catalogs from a number of clothing companies that I like and they often have great ideas I can translate into my sewing projects. I live at the Oregon Coast where the biggest fashion choice of the day is which sweatshirt to wear with my leggings, but nonetheless I like to be inspired.

In some instances, I’m taking a close look at how a detail was created; in other instances I’m just savoring the artistic nature of the garment—perhaps the seaming or an unexpected combination of colors in a simple style.

One of my favorite catalogs is Artful Home. I think I have an inner persona that really wants to sport some of their artsy combos. Many of their designs are limited-edition creations, but oh so inspirational. Their designers do a lot of pattern mixing, which I love, while others create simple art with clever seaming.

For some, keeping a digital image of an inspiring garment works, but I much prefer to cut it out of the catalog and put it on an idea board in my sewing room. Periodically, I’ll purge some things on the board and wonder why I liked that particular thing at some point in time. Other times, I’ll pull a clip and try duplicating the technique.

As I look at catalogs, my thought is almost always, “I could do that” or “Why didn’t I think of that?” So, I’m encouraged to think outside my comfort zone a bit.

For example, in a recent Coldwater Creek catalog, I saw some wonderful jeans with embroidery on the leg (item # 23582, Summer Ankle Jeans) and a decoratively stitched band on the lower edge. They’re perfect to showcase machine stitches in some fun combinations. You can start with jeans that you already own, or make your own. If your jeans are ready-made, you’ll need to open the inseam or out seam (choose the one that’s not flat-felled) to access the leg area for the embroidery process and to add the decoratively stitched bands. But otherwise, pretty straight forward—choose your favorite color combo and stitch favorites to create bottom bands wide enough to match the lower leg circumference. In addition to being a fun and colorful addition to a pair of jeans, the band can also serve to lengthen a too-short pair. A great idea for growing kids!

Sometimes the things that inspire me can serve a functional as well as decorative purpose. If you have a denim jacket with some well-worn spots (or actual holes) and you’ve not a fan of the grunge look, consider adding some fabric shapes over those areas. This jacket inspired me to do just that, using some old lace and Liberty prints I inherited from my mom. Depending on the look you like (and access to the area you want to cover), you can hand- or machine-stitch the patches in place. Add some beads or jewels to the patches for a little bling.

One interesting detail I’ve seen for summer is an openwork sleeve insert. This clever inset is easy enough even for a beginning sewer to duplicate using ½” ribbon or a narrow tube of fabric.

Here’s how:

1. Cut a piece of removable stabilizer the length of your sleeve center plus 1”. Draw parallel lines 2 1/2” apart. Mark dots along both lines 2” apart (1).
   
2. Cut the ribbon into 4 ½” long lengths and position them diagonally along the marked stabilizer dots, weaving them in the same direction. Pin in place.
3. Sew along the marked line on each side of the ribbon lattice (2).
4. Mark the center of each shirt sleeve and cut apart along the line. Fold under 5/8” on each sleeve section center cut edge and press. Lay each folded edge just over the vertical lattice stitching lines and topstitch in place.
5. Note that your sleeve will now be wider than the original pattern, so recut the sleeve to shape using the original pattern and matching the center line to the center of the lattice inset. Remove the stabilizer following the manufacturer’s directions, trim ribbon ends to neaten, and finish the T-shirt construction.

~Linda Griepentrog is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and three dogs, Yohnuh, Abby, and Lizzie. Contact her at .

In the world of sewing, threads are the unsung heroes that hold together our creations with strength and finesse. But beyond functionality, threads also possess the power to elevate our projects from ordinary to extraordinary. Enter decorative metallic thread, the ingredient for adding flair and personality to your home sewing endeavors.

Metallic thread comes in a myriad of colors and offers endless possibilities for creativity. Whether you’re embellishing a garment, adding accents to home decor items, or simply looking to infuse your projects with a touch of elegance, these could be the ticket to achieving stunning results. Their reflective properties catch the light, creating eye-catching accents that elevate the overall aesthetic of your creations. However, they can be more prone to breakage than standard sewing threads, so opting for a high-quality brand designed specifically for machine embroidery can help ensure smooth stitching.

Another consideration when using decorative thread is the choice of stitch. While basic straight stitches and zigzags are versatile options, experimenting with specialty stitches like satin stitch, chain stitch, or feather stitch can yield stunning results. Most sewing machines today come equipped with a variety of decorative stitch options that you may not have considered using before but can offer unexpected options to allow you to unleash your creativity with ease.

When it comes to selecting colors, don’t be afraid to mix and match to create visual interest. Contrasting threads can make your stitching pop, while complementary colors can create a harmonious effect. Consider using a color wheel as a guide to help you choose combinations that work well together.

Metallic Threads

Although metallic thread appears to be made of metal, it’s actually composed of a synthetic material such as polyester. For best results:

• Use a needle made to work with metallics (try a 90/14 metallic or topstitch needle).
• Loosen your top tension a few numbers.
• Whether vertical or horizontal, position the thread spool so that it stays flat and rolls off flat without pulling against the spool.
• Use soft materials and stabilizers for fewer stitching interruptions.
• Slow down the speed of your machine.
• If doing an embroidery design, choose simple designs without heavy or dense fills and use longer stitch lengths to avoid breakage.
• If you run into issues, try using a thread lubricant.

What about my bobbin?

Choose a lighter weight thread such as a smooth polyester (not spun polyester) for your bobbin that won’t compete for tension with the metallic thread on top. Lighter bobbin thread yields to the top thread, reducing bulk in your stitching. As a result, your needle won’t encounter as much resistance and you’ll find that your stitches are much smoother.

Is it rough in your neighborhood?

Metallic threads are delicate and can easily catch on burrs or imperfections. Check all of the thread guides on your machine for rough areas where the thread may get caught.

Consider your serger

Have you thought about using metallic thread in your serger? Although it can be used in the needle, it will form an attractive decorative edge if you use it in either the upper looper with a rolled hem setting, or both upper and lower loopers with a balanced tension setting. Just remember to change the stitch length to get the desired filled look on the edge.

Japanese Tailoring: What is it?

Japanese tailoring represents a distinctive approach to construction methods within Japan’s ready-to-wear clothing sector. This method seamlessly blends the intricate craftsmanship of traditional tailoring with the efficiency and accessibility of modern techniques, resulting in impeccably crafted garments.

These are a few of the characteristics found in Japanese tailoring techniques:

• Fusible interfacing is used as a substitute for hair canvas.
• Instead of hand-stitched tape along the roll line, fusible stabilizing tape is used.
• Garment shaping is achieved through pressing rather than pad stitching.
• The seam allowances at the edges of the collar, neck, and facings are adjusted on the pattern to save time, improve accuracy, and ensure concealed seams on the front-facing side of the garment.
• Bulk is eliminated in the notch area where the collar joins the garment.
• Collar and lapel corners are symmetrically turned under.
• Seams reverse direction at breakpoints, resulting in flat, sharp edges on collars and facings.
• Welt pocket ends are mitered to remove bulk and conceal seams.
• Sleeve vents provide an opportunity for the sleeve to be lengthened or shortened if needed.
• Additional ease is incorporated into the lining.
• Hand stitching is minimized.

Sewing Tips from Judy

• Understand the pattern before you sew, so that easing and stretching can be done appropriately.
• Check seam allowances — 5/8″ isn’t always the best standard. A nar­rower seam is better if grading is needed; a wider seam gives room for fitting.
• When tracing patterns, dry iron the pattern paper. Paper can shrink with a steam iron!
• Extend the grain lines the full length of the pattern.
• Make a fitting shell, especially if making the pattern for the first time. It tests the fit and the style.
• Check the seams and make sure they match. Always check on the stitching lines, not the cutting lines.
• Add notches on long seams instead of using lots of pins.
• Check princess lines-make notch­es on the front working from the bottom up and the top down above and below where the dart fullness is, then compare the notch dis­tances and make sure they match.
• On armscyes, it is helpful to know how much sleeve ease exists before it is set in. More than 1 1/2″ is too much. If there is too much ease, fold out the excess in the sleeve cap.
• On a two-piece sleeve, be sure there is ease to accommodate the elbow.

Unshin

Interested in learning more about Japanese-style sewing? Watch this video to learn about unshin, a Japanese hand-sewing technique:

~ Judy Barlup, formerly of Unique Techniques, is a master of Japanese Tailoring and was a frequent teacher at ASG events. Although Judy is no longer teaching, her tips and techniques are timeless.