You see it everywhere—dresses, pillows, linens, aprons and more. Rickrack is a simple braided trim that forms a zigzag pattern and it’s been around since the 1800s. Fashion historians note that rickrack was originally used on feedsack dresses and to help improve the look of garments made from reused fabrics.

Today’s rickrack is usually 100% polyester, as that fiber avoids the shrinkage and discoloration of its 100% cotton predecessor. Some rickracks incorporate other fibers like metallic or wool.

Rickrack comes in many sizes and colors, depending on its use. Tiny baby rickrack works well for children’s clothes, while larger sizes add a spark to other items. In addition to solid colors, some manufacturers make printed or variegated color rickracks.

Playing with rickrack is what makes it perhaps one of the most fun trims to use. You can apply it many different ways.

Flat

The simplest way to apply rickrack is to lay it flat on the fabric base and stitch down the center of it. The stitching can be a matching thread and straight stitch, or it can be a contrast thread color and a decorative stitch. A strand of fusible thread can hold it in place for stitching if needed and because of its braided construction, it can be shaped into a curve for areas around necklines and sleeves. If possible, it’s best to begin and end the application in a seam so there’s no worry about finishing the ends of the trim.

Hand embroidery stitches can also be used to attach flat rickrack, often creating elaborate design patterning.

Under the edge

Hemlines, sleeve edges and ruffle edges are a great place to use a rickrack edge application. Simply place the rickrack under the finished edge of your project, then edgestitch in place leaving the points extending.

Floating edge

Rickrack can lay along a finished edge with the complete width of the trim showing. Catch it in place with a blindstitch or with bar tacks placed at each point.

If you prefer, don’t finish the fabric edge first, but instead use the blindhem stitch to attach the rickrack points (left image below), then press under the edge (and the stitching) to finish (right image below), making the rickrack appear to float along the finished edge.

In the seam

Rickrack can be inserted into a seam, like between a facing or in an accent seam. To create this application, baste the rickrack in place on a single layer of fabric spanning the seamline with the stitching just inside the midpoint. Place the adjacent fabric right sides together with the rickracked section and stitch a smidgeon inside the basting stitch to join the pieces together. The rickrack points will then extend from the seamline; press to one side.

Inset

If you want to create an open area within your project, rickrack can make a perfect span of adjacent fabric layers. A simple application is to finish both edges of the project by pressing under the seam allowances, then lay the rickrack under the first edge and edgestitch in place. Then, add the adjacent fabric spanning the opposite edge of the trim and edgestitch in place.

Another inset option is to use the blindhem stitch on your machine to catch the rickrack points for each fabric finished edge, like the floating edge mentioned above. Stitching can be done in matching or contrasting thread. While decorative, this method isn’t as sturdy as the previous method, and shouldn’t be used in any area of stress.

Two-fer

Because of its wide color availability, varying sizes and fiber options, you can add an artistic touch to your project by combining two different rickracks. Simply interlock the points for a color mix. Apply it flat using invisible thread or a contrast thread, depending on the desired look. {interlocking two colors of rickrack—2 photos}

Dimensional

Rickrack can be coiled or gathered to make a variety of flowers. Use a double strand of thread in a hand needle and place enough stitching to hold the piece together.

If you can’t position rickrack so that the ends are in a seam, simply carefully turn under the overlapping/ trim end and stitch in place. Trim so that there are no ravel-ly rickrack ends showing. Hand stitching and seam sealant may be helpful for a neat finish.

~Linda Griepentrog is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and three dogs, Yohnuh, Abby, and Lizzie. Contact her at .

If your necklines gape, drape, or pull where they shouldn’t, pattern adjustments are needed. When working with a new pattern, it’s often a good idea to create a muslin first so that you can make any adjustments that may be necessary before cutting in to your fashion fabric. Try on the muslin bodice to find your problem area. You can actually experience both gaping and pulling in the same neckline and may need to adjust for both.

The round (or jewel) neckline is a basic neckline design that encircles your body at the base of your neck. Neckline variations can be made by raising or lowering the neckline from this base point.

When a neckline is oversized, is pulling, or simply doesn’t lay on your body in a flattering manner, an adjustment is in order to achieve a perfect fit.

Too Tight

If the neckline pulls uncomfortably around the neck, a corrective measure involves marking the desired neckline location on the garment and stitching along this line. Clip to the new seamline at ½-inch intervals until comfortable. Modify the front and back pattern pieces of the bodice and facing equally by drawing new seam and cutting lines.

The back pattern piece will usually contain a marking indicating whether the base of the neckline is positioned higher or lower than your actual base neckline.

Too Large

If you need to raise the neckline to reach the base of the neck, fill in the neckline on your muslin with a folded, shaped bias strip of fabric and baste. You can then go back to your pattern and attach pattern paper under your pattern piece and cut the new neckline. Adjust the front and back bodice and facing pattern pieces equally by extending the seamlines and cutting lines as indicated by the strip.

Too Much Gape

Not all gaping necklines are caused by the same issue.  Many gaping necklines are caused by the wrong bust cup size, an incorrect pattern size, or even a hollow chest. Even if your pattern was purchased using the correct bust measurement, the pattern still may not allow enough room across the garment front for your bust cup size or body contour. If that’s the case, the bodice will not drape smoothly over the body contours, causing gaping and distortion of lower necklines.

• If you’re working with a finished garment made from a woven fabric, be sure to staystitch or use an iron-on interfacing to prevent the neckline from being stretched out.
• Excess fabric causes necklines to wrinkle above the bust and stand away from the body. Pin out the wrinkles, tapering to the armhole seams. Alternatively, you may need to pinch out the excess into a wedge or dart shape to the neckline. If this is the case, the end point of the darts should meet at the bust apex. When complete, transfer the alteration to your pattern front by lowering cutting lines and seamlines at the shoulder and neck and by shortening the amount needed at the center front.
• Pulling at the armhole distorts the neckline above the bust. If this is the case on your muslin, slash from the neckline to the armhole seam and spread as needed. Insert strips of fabric, then baste to the cut edges. You can then transfer your alterations to the pattern by slashing the pattern front in the same way, spread as needed, and fasten with tape. Make sure to correct the shoulder, armhole, and neckline seams and cutting lines.

This article from The Thrifty Stitcher provides detailed instructions on how to address several different neckline issues:

• 6 Ways to Fix a Gaping Neckline

Some people call them junk mail, but personally, I LOVE to get catalogs in the mail! I’ve signed up to get paper catalogs from a number of clothing companies that I like and they often have great ideas I can translate into my sewing projects. I live at the Oregon Coast where the biggest fashion choice of the day is which sweatshirt to wear with my leggings, but nonetheless I like to be inspired.

In some instances, I’m taking a close look at how a detail was created; in other instances I’m just savoring the artistic nature of the garment—perhaps the seaming or an unexpected combination of colors in a simple style.

One of my favorite catalogs is Artful Home. I think I have an inner persona that really wants to sport some of their artsy combos. Many of their designs are limited-edition creations, but oh so inspirational. Their designers do a lot of pattern mixing, which I love, while others create simple art with clever seaming.

For some, keeping a digital image of an inspiring garment works, but I much prefer to cut it out of the catalog and put it on an idea board in my sewing room. Periodically, I’ll purge some things on the board and wonder why I liked that particular thing at some point in time. Other times, I’ll pull a clip and try duplicating the technique.

As I look at catalogs, my thought is almost always, “I could do that” or “Why didn’t I think of that?” So, I’m encouraged to think outside my comfort zone a bit.

For example, in a recent Coldwater Creek catalog, I saw some wonderful jeans with embroidery on the leg (item # 23582, Summer Ankle Jeans) and a decoratively stitched band on the lower edge. They’re perfect to showcase machine stitches in some fun combinations. You can start with jeans that you already own, or make your own. If your jeans are ready-made, you’ll need to open the inseam or out seam (choose the one that’s not flat-felled) to access the leg area for the embroidery process and to add the decoratively stitched bands. But otherwise, pretty straight forward—choose your favorite color combo and stitch favorites to create bottom bands wide enough to match the lower leg circumference. In addition to being a fun and colorful addition to a pair of jeans, the band can also serve to lengthen a too-short pair. A great idea for growing kids!

Sometimes the things that inspire me can serve a functional as well as decorative purpose. If you have a denim jacket with some well-worn spots (or actual holes) and you’ve not a fan of the grunge look, consider adding some fabric shapes over those areas. This jacket inspired me to do just that, using some old lace and Liberty prints I inherited from my mom. Depending on the look you like (and access to the area you want to cover), you can hand- or machine-stitch the patches in place. Add some beads or jewels to the patches for a little bling.

One interesting detail I’ve seen for summer is an openwork sleeve insert. This clever inset is easy enough even for a beginning sewer to duplicate using ½” ribbon or a narrow tube of fabric.

Here’s how:

1. Cut a piece of removable stabilizer the length of your sleeve center plus 1”. Draw parallel lines 2 1/2” apart. Mark dots along both lines 2” apart (1).
   
2. Cut the ribbon into 4 ½” long lengths and position them diagonally along the marked stabilizer dots, weaving them in the same direction. Pin in place.
3. Sew along the marked line on each side of the ribbon lattice (2).
4. Mark the center of each shirt sleeve and cut apart along the line. Fold under 5/8” on each sleeve section center cut edge and press. Lay each folded edge just over the vertical lattice stitching lines and topstitch in place.
5. Note that your sleeve will now be wider than the original pattern, so recut the sleeve to shape using the original pattern and matching the center line to the center of the lattice inset. Remove the stabilizer following the manufacturer’s directions, trim ribbon ends to neaten, and finish the T-shirt construction.

~Linda Griepentrog is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and three dogs, Yohnuh, Abby, and Lizzie. Contact her at .

In the world of sewing, threads are the unsung heroes that hold together our creations with strength and finesse. But beyond functionality, threads also possess the power to elevate our projects from ordinary to extraordinary. Enter decorative metallic thread, the ingredient for adding flair and personality to your home sewing endeavors.

Metallic thread comes in a myriad of colors and offers endless possibilities for creativity. Whether you’re embellishing a garment, adding accents to home decor items, or simply looking to infuse your projects with a touch of elegance, these could be the ticket to achieving stunning results. Their reflective properties catch the light, creating eye-catching accents that elevate the overall aesthetic of your creations. However, they can be more prone to breakage than standard sewing threads, so opting for a high-quality brand designed specifically for machine embroidery can help ensure smooth stitching.

Another consideration when using decorative thread is the choice of stitch. While basic straight stitches and zigzags are versatile options, experimenting with specialty stitches like satin stitch, chain stitch, or feather stitch can yield stunning results. Most sewing machines today come equipped with a variety of decorative stitch options that you may not have considered using before but can offer unexpected options to allow you to unleash your creativity with ease.

When it comes to selecting colors, don’t be afraid to mix and match to create visual interest. Contrasting threads can make your stitching pop, while complementary colors can create a harmonious effect. Consider using a color wheel as a guide to help you choose combinations that work well together.

Metallic Threads

Although metallic thread appears to be made of metal, it’s actually composed of a synthetic material such as polyester. For best results:

• Use a needle made to work with metallics (try a 90/14 metallic or topstitch needle).
• Loosen your top tension a few numbers.
• Whether vertical or horizontal, position the thread spool so that it stays flat and rolls off flat without pulling against the spool.
• Use soft materials and stabilizers for fewer stitching interruptions.
• Slow down the speed of your machine.
• If doing an embroidery design, choose simple designs without heavy or dense fills and use longer stitch lengths to avoid breakage.
• If you run into issues, try using a thread lubricant.

What about my bobbin?

Choose a lighter weight thread such as a smooth polyester (not spun polyester) for your bobbin that won’t compete for tension with the metallic thread on top. Lighter bobbin thread yields to the top thread, reducing bulk in your stitching. As a result, your needle won’t encounter as much resistance and you’ll find that your stitches are much smoother.

Is it rough in your neighborhood?

Metallic threads are delicate and can easily catch on burrs or imperfections. Check all of the thread guides on your machine for rough areas where the thread may get caught.

Consider your serger

Have you thought about using metallic thread in your serger? Although it can be used in the needle, it will form an attractive decorative edge if you use it in either the upper looper with a rolled hem setting, or both upper and lower loopers with a balanced tension setting. Just remember to change the stitch length to get the desired filled look on the edge.