Sewing – Page 31

September 16, 2022

Sewing Tips for Perfect Trousers (preview)

Great looking trousers, like all successful sewing projects, requires a bit of specialized attention. Here’s a collection of tips and techniques to help you achieve the best possible results:

Stitching Order

Stitch all vertical seams before stitching the crotch seams, except when making jeans, making sure to stitch the inseams and outseams in the same direction.

Helpful hint: stitch and press the outseams first because it will make it easier to get a sharp press while the legs are still flat.

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September 9, 2022

Handy Notions: Tracing Wheels

The tracing wheel may be a sewing notion you were first introduced to when you began sewing, as it’s a handy way to transfer construction markings from the pattern to the fabric. Whether it’s patch pocket locations, a zipper opening, buttonholes, darts or pleats, using a tracing wheel is a quick way to get accurate markings for sewing.

Tool Styles

Tracing wheels come in several different styles, depending on their use. All should be used on a hard, flat surface for best marking visibility.

Double Wheels

If you’re working with a pattern that doesn’t include seam allowances, you will need to add them before cutting your fabric. An adjustable double wheel uses two heads and you can select the spacing between them, depending on the desired seam allowance, from ¼” to 1 ¼”. The heads snap into a handle and remain parallel to each other for accurate marking outside the original pattern outline to add fabric for seams.

In addition to being able to add seams, a double wheel allows you to mark the original pattern outline, so you have a marked line to follow for sewing. This is especially helpful for beginners, and for any garments that may require some fitting adjustments.

A double tracing wheel can also be used to enlarge or decrease a pattern size, by adjusting an even amount in the needed areas.

This type of tool is versatile, as you can also use it with just one head if you prefer.

Smooth Wheels

Looking like a tiny pizza cutter, only not sharp, a smooth tracing wheel makes a continuous, unbroken marked line. On fabrics that are impressionable (i.e. the marked line shows without using marking paper), the smooth wheel can be used to trace the pattern outline for cutting without pinning. This is especially handy for things like leather or vinyl, where pin marks are permanent. Just wheel around the pattern outline and cut on the impression line.

Dritz 746 Smooth Tracing Wheel on Amazon

Serrated Wheels

If you don’t need a continuous line, but a dotted or dashed one will do, the serrated wheel with its tiny spiked head points, will make that happen. Because there are spaces between the points, the marked lines come out the same way.

Blunt-point Wheels

On more fragile and lightweight fabrics, a serrated wheel may cause some surface damage, so switch instead to the blunt-point wheel. The small scallops are gentler on delicate fabrics, but produce an equally visible line as their spikey counterparts.

Needle-point/Spiked Wheels

Made with long spikes, these wheels are best used not for marking, but for tracing patterns onto tag board or crisp paper. Simply trace the original pattern outline to create a more permanent pattern, handy for reusing multiple times. It can also be used to perforate leather for easier stitching. If you use this wheel on fabric, most will become damaged from the small holes it creates.

Tihood needlepoint tracing wheel on Amazon.

Using a Tracing Wheel

Tracing wheels are most often used with some type of tracing or transfer paper. The paper is available in multiple colors, and today, most tracing paper markings wash out. If you plan to use the tracing paper on the fabric right side, be sure it’s designated as “wax-free.”

Caution: Some tracing paper markings become permanent once they are pressed as they’re heat-set into the fabric, so be sure to test products first on your fabric before use.

To transfer markings to a project that’s cut double (with fabric wrong sides together), place the tracing paper between the layers so that color is exposed to both layers. Trace the markings with the designated tracing wheel, remove the paper, and the markings will show on the wrong side of both layers.

If you cut with the fabric right sides together, encase both layers in the tracing paper with the colored side against the fabric wrong sides, and then trace the markings.

If you cut a single-layer pattern, place the colored paper under the layer with the color against the fabric wrong side, then mark.

~Linda Griepentrog Linda is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and three dogs, Yohnuh, Abby, and Lizzie. Contact her at .

September 2, 2022

3 Steps to Perfecting the Princess Line Seam (preview)

Why Princess-Line?

Example of princess-line seams with piping Princess-line seams often result in a smoother line that allows for a body-skimming fit. They can also be more flattering than typical darts, especially if you have a large bust or shoulders as they not only help to flatter curves, but allow for more opportunities for fitting. They can also be used to create a unique style to the garment by using contrasting fabric or color blocking, or even to add a piped contrasting trim.

Do you love the look of a princess-line seam but hate the task of fitting it? The solution is a method called “dart conversion.” The name may sound intimidating, but it’s really quite easy once you start out with a sloper with well-placed darts.

The complete version of this article is available on the ASG Members Only blog and requires member login.
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August 26, 2022

Suit-ability: Repurposing Suits for Other Projects

Not all fabric we use in our projects comes from the fabric store—some comes from our own closets or from the closets of others near and dear.

Have you noticed in the past few years that there are fewer and fewer men wearing suits? Blame it on the popular work-from-home phenomena or simply the trend toward more casual dressing. But, that trend can create a gold mine, as suit jackets are relegated to the back of the closet, or shipped off to the local thrift store for retrieval by savvy sewers.

Why, you might say? Suit jackets offer a lot of quality fabric that can be repurposed for other projects. In particular, some ready-made construction details that you may think are beyond your skill level to create, like welt pockets and keyhole buttonholes are already done. So why not “harvest” those niceties for another project or two, or three, or four, depending on the size of the jacket.

What to look for

If you’re shopping thrift stores for men’s suit jackets, look for the largest size to garner more fabric. Choose a worsted weight, as it’s not as bulky as the woolen cousins. Be sure to inspect the item for any stains, moth holes or other damage and look for name brand labels and quality fabrics. In many cases, the suit coat may be almost new and worn only on one or two occasions before discard.

Thrift stores often have sales, so shop smartly. If you qualify, check for senior discount day with savings up to 50%. Or for similar discounts, check the tag color of the day. If you’re shopping for suit coats at rummage sales, ask if there’s a half-off-the-tag-price day or a sale where everything you can fit into a bag is only $1. These usually happen on the last day of the sale and it’s a great time to go crazy for suits and sport jackets.

Deconstruction

Watching the news or listening to podcasts is a great time to disassemble a suit jacket. First, decide which parts you might like to keep for other projects—patch pockets, welt pockets, front buttons/buttonholes, lapels, sleeve plackets, labels, etc.–and take apart the seams leaving those areas intact. Lining can be separated or left with its original construction detail, depending on how the area will be reused. While you’re taking apart the suit, note the inner construction details—the process can be a major tailoring learning experience, especially on high-end jackets. If you’re into tailoring, you may even be able to harvest some of the jacket’s structural materials like sleeve heads, hair canvas chest pieces, shoulder pads, etc. for reuse.

Don’t forget that the inside of the suit jacket can offer some fun details, like bold labels, lining welt pockets and tabs, and accent stitching, so put those to work on the outside of your project.

Small projects, like bags, allow for utilizing many details from one jacket and it’s fun to figure out how to make them work to maximize the fun. Check out our featured bags using several different suit details.

Tie Tactics

Not far from suit jackets, you may also find some wonderful ties being discarded. Whether they’re silk, polyester or wool, there’s yardage to be garnered. If you’re thrifting or repurposing ties from a loved one, creative options abound.

One idea—this pieced tote made is not only a great project to reuse old or discarded ties, but also can be a wonderful way to remember a special person whose ties you may have inherited. Get the instructions and free pattern from Yarspirations.

Make a tote with ties — Image compliments of Coats & Clark

August 12, 2022

Triple Straight Stitch

Often overlooked because the machine icon doesn’t really look like the actual stitch, the triple straight stitch is a fun one, both for utility use and for embellishments. Depending on the machine brand, the stitch may also be called a straight stretch stitch or a backstitch.

On the stitch screen or dial, it appears as three rows of straight stitching side by side. But in fact, that’s not how it sews out. Instead, it’s really three stitches on top of each other with the needle penetrating the same hole at each end of the stitch. Whether your machine sews it as two stitches forward and one back, or one stitch forward, one stitch back and another stitch forward depends on the brand, but the look is the same—a bold straight stitch.

What’s it for?

Because the machine is sewing back and forth to create this stitch, there is some inherent stretch built into it. It’s great for sewing seams or hems in knit fabrics to maintain flexibility without popping stitches, as often happens with just a regular straight stitch. And ideal as well for use on leggings or swimwear where stretch is needed for fit.

It’s also perfect for use where there is extra reinforcement needed, like on tote bag handles, pant crotches, armhole seams, etc. Outdoor gear is another perfect place to utilize this stitch. It’s essentially three times as strong as an ordinary straight stitch.

Because the stitches are sewn on top of each other, it still allows you to press a seam allowance open and flat.

With the backward and forward motion of the machine as it sews out this stitch, it’s a good idea to slow your sewing speed, using either the speed regulator or a lighter touch on the foot pedal.

Beyond the Basics

Even though its intended purpose is for utility use, this stitch can take on a totally new persona when used decoratively.

Like most machine stitches, you can vary the look by changing the stitch length. While the default length might be ideal for sturdy seam sewing, lengthening it makes it ideal for other uses.

The triple straight stitch is ideal for topstitching. You can sew a well-defined and prominent line of stitches to accent a seam, garment edge or outline an appliqué. Because you’re getting three stitches on top of each other, the stitching line appears heavy without having to invest in a heavy weight or novelty thread and a specialty needle. You can simply sew with the same thread you used to construct the garment, or a contrast.

You can even sew this stitch with metallic thread. Or, use a shiny rayon or polyester embroidery thread for a bit of extra sheen. Opt for a variegated thread for an even more interesting look.

When used on denim, the triple straight stitch can mimic the topstitching found on ready-to-wear jeans.

In addition to topstitching, the stitch can be used to create designs on its own—from free-flowing curves to a precise grid, as shown in the photos below.

When used with white thread on a dark background, this stitch can look similar to Sashiko stitching. It’s also ideal for quilting, whether following the design in a printed fabric for accent or sewing in channels or grids. It can also be used as an outline for pieced motifs, as shown in the next image.

One note of caution: Because the fabric moves forward and backward as it forms this stitch, stick to gentle curves as opposed to tight curves which are harder to control.

And, there’s more…

You can sew the triple straight stitch with a double needle to create perfectly aligned stitch lines, or with a wing needle to leave tiny holes often used by heirloom sewers as accents and for attaching other trims. In both instances, it’s a good idea to sew slower than normal for consistent stitching.

If you add width to this stitch, you get an entirely different stitch—a triple zigzag—which is great for embellishing as well, as the three threads make the stitch much more prominent than a simple zigzag.

Think you might need a little play time with this great stitch?

~Linda Griepentrog
Linda is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and two dogs, Yohnuh and Abby. Contact her at .