Standard hem depths vary by garment to ensure proper drape and a polished appearance. A finished hem should be smooth, flat, and a uniform depth with enough weight to allow it to hang well. The style of the garment and the fabric’s weight will influence the appropriate hem depth. The following guidelines are a good place to start. Remember that these are just guidelines and that there’s more than one right way to finish your garment.
| GARMENT | SUGGESTED TYPE OF HEM | TYPCIAL DEPTH OF HEM |
| Blouse, tucked in | Narrow, double-folded, rolled | 1/4″ – 1/2″ |
| Blouse, untucked | Narrow double-fold, possibly with small vents at the side. | 3/8″ – 3/4″ |
| Coat | Blindstitch with interfacing | 1 1/2″ – 2″ |
| Dress, standard length | Blindstitch, felled hem, or rolled hem. | 1 1/2″ – 2″ (typical) 1/2″ for sheer fabrics >2″ for heavier fabrics |
| Jacket | Blindstitch with interfacing | 1 1/2″ – 2″ |
| Women’s dress slacks* | Blindstitch | 5/8″ – 1 1/4″ |
| Pullover | Blindstitch or topstitch | 3/8″ – 1 1/4″ |
| Shirt | Topstitch | 3/8″ – 5/8″ |
| Shorts | Topstitch | 5/8″ – 1 1/4″ |
| Skirt, full or flared | Blindstitch or topstitch | 1/4″ – 3/8″ |
| Skirt, A-line and Straight | Blindstitch, or may use a faced hem. | 2″ – 3″ |
| Top | Blindstitch or topstitch | 3/4″ – 1 1/4″ |
| Men’s Trousers* | Blindstitch, double fold, straight, rolled or faced. | 2″ |
Notes:
* Pant break: The finished length of the pants is described by the “break,” which refers to the fold created where the pant leg meets the shoe.
- No break: A modern, clean look where the pant hem rests just above the shoe.
- Medium or half break: A classic, traditional length with a single, slight crease where the pants meet the shoe.
- Full break: A longer, more conservative length with a generous fold that covers most of the shoelaces.
Sewing a blind hem by hand:
Sewing a blind hem by machine:
