If your necklines gape, drape, or pull where they shouldn’t, pattern adjustments are needed. When working with a new pattern, it’s often a good idea to create a muslin first so that you can make any adjustments that may be necessary before cutting in to your fashion fabric. Try on the muslin bodice to find your problem area. You can actually experience both gaping and pulling in the same neckline and may need to adjust for both.
The round (or jewel) neckline is a basic neckline design that encircles your body at the base of your neck. Neckline variations can be made by raising or lowering the neckline from this base point.
When a neckline is oversized, is pulling, or simply doesn’t lay on your body in a flattering manner, an adjustment is in order to achieve a perfect fit.
Too Tight
If the neckline pulls uncomfortably around the neck, a corrective measure involves marking the desired neckline location on the garment and stitching along this line. Clip to the new seamline at ½-inch intervals until comfortable. Modify the front and back pattern pieces of the bodice and facing equally by drawing new seam and cutting lines.
The back pattern piece will usually contain a marking indicating whether the base of the neckline is positioned higher or lower than your actual base neckline.
Too Large
If you need to raise the neckline to reach the base of the neck, fill in the neckline on your muslin with a folded, shaped bias strip of fabric and baste. You can then go back to your pattern and attach pattern paper under your pattern piece and cut the new neckline. Adjust the front and back bodice and facing pattern pieces equally by extending the seamlines and cutting lines as indicated by the strip.
Too Much Gape
Not all gaping necklines are caused by the same issue. Many gaping necklines are caused by the wrong bust cup size, an incorrect pattern size, or even a hollow chest. Even if your pattern was purchased using the correct bust measurement, the pattern still may not allow enough room across the garment front for your bust cup size or body contour. If that’s the case, the bodice will not drape smoothly over the body contours, causing gaping and distortion of lower necklines.
- If you’re working with a finished garment made from a woven fabric, be sure to staystitch or use an iron-on interfacing to prevent the neckline from being stretched out.
- Excess fabric causes necklines to wrinkle above the bust and stand away from the body. Pin out the wrinkles, tapering to the armhole seams. Alternatively, you may need to pinch out the excess into a wedge or dart shape to the neckline. If this is the case, the end point of the darts should meet at the bust apex. When complete, transfer the alteration to your pattern front by lowering cutting lines and seamlines at the shoulder and neck and by shortening the amount needed at the center front.
- Pulling at the armhole distorts the neckline above the bust. If this is the case on your muslin, slash from the neckline to the armhole seam and spread as needed. Insert strips of fabric, then baste to the cut edges. You can then transfer your alterations to the pattern by slashing the pattern front in the same way, spread as needed, and fasten with tape. Make sure to correct the shoulder, armhole, and neckline seams and cutting lines.
This article from The Thrifty Stitcher provides detailed instructions on how to address several different neckline issues:
