With ASG’s inaugural Sustainable Sewing group meeting less than a week away, this timely article will help encourage you to start thinking about sustainable sewing opportunities for your wardrobe.

We often think of repurposing thrifted materials — whether it be fabric scraps, curtains, or clothing — into non-clothing items like handbags, dog beds, or home dec items. And while many of us think of thrift stores and donation centers as places to drop off that bread machine we wanted so desperately 15 years ago and no longer use, or those size 8 dresses that don’t fit any longer, a thrift or second-hand store is the perfect place to look for great clothing options that don’t need to start from scratch. When thinking about sustainable sewing, we need to change our mindset from toss to reuse, and from buy to recycle. Thrift shopping can also start in your own closet. Either way, get into your creative zone as you look at different pieces.

• A beautiful skirt might be reclaimed from an otherwise uninteresting dress.
• A hopelessly outdated jacket with fabulous animal-shaped buttons may be worth the $3.00 price tag. Even if you toss the jacket, those buttons will look great on your next summer dress. If you find something that fits, consider a brightly colored new lining, or even a complete restyle.
• Turn an oversize scarf into a kimono-styled jacket or beach cover up with the addition of side seams.
• Check out Pinterest for inspiration

Look at clothes that aren’t in your size range. Over-sized blouses can be remade into a lovely overlay for a sleeveless dress.

For those who want to learn to do alterations, items purchased for a few dollars are perfect to practice on. If you make a mistake, the cost is minimal. You can use your finished piece as a reference when you work on something more valuable.

Recognizing a Treasure

So how do you decide what will work and what won’t? First, consider the integrity of the fabric. Clothes that have started to deteriorate already simply won’t be worth your while to work with. Be sure that the clothing is clean (you are generally safe purchasing at places like consignment shops, and larger donation centers as they are careful in what they accept). When it comes to cleanliness, purchasing at yard sales can be a bit chancier, but generally garments are less expensive. However, finding a Harve Bernard wool coat for $10 is not a bargain if the wool is dry and the threads have started to pull apart. So, pass that up and go on to the next rack.

Second, choose clothing using the same criteria you would use in buying or sewing new clothing for yourself. Is it a color you like? Is it a type of fabric that you feel comfortable in? Will it have to be dry-cleaned?

Third, carefully analyze what alterations or changes need to be made to make this work for you. Is it really worth the time to fix it? Do you have the skills to make the needed alterations? Will it require more fabric to make it work and can you find that fabric? When you’ve answered these questions to your satisfaction, then either put it back for someone else to enjoy or take it home and make it your own.

By embracing the art of thrifted fashion and sewing, you not only cultivate a more sustainable approach to style but also express your individuality through unique creations. Each stitch tells a story of transformation, turning forgotten garments into cherished wardrobe staples that reflect your personal taste and creativity. So, the next time you stroll through the aisles of a thrift store or the deep corners of your closet, envision the endless possibilities awaiting your skilled hands and creative vision.

ASG Members can join in the new Sustainable Sewing online group to share, learn, and brainstorm ideas. Not a member? Join today!

Tip: If you don’t have a use for your unwanted clothing or textiles, there are many options for recycling:

• Resale Shops and Thrift Stores
• Clothing Swaps
• Online resale shops
• For Days: The Take Back Bag
• Trashie: The Take Back Bag
• St. Pauly Textile, Inc.
• Blue Jeans Go Green Denim Recycling
• Bra Recyclers

Selecting the ideal fabric for a garment tailored to your preferences and body type is a frustration that even the most experienced seamstresses encounter at least once, if not multiple times, in their sewing journey. Many of us also inadvertently create additional hurdles for ourselves when aiming for the absolute perfect garment. In our pursuit of ideal pattern-fabric combinations, we often overlook a fundamental aspect — understanding the intricacies of both the pattern and the fabric we have at hand.

The key lies in learning to see before you sew. This involves a comprehensive examination of the pattern, fabric, and how they align with your own preferences and body type. Developing this visual acuity forms the basis of a deeper understanding. Here’s a step-by-step guide to consider:

See the Pattern

Begin by thoroughly examining the pattern instructions and recommendations, but don’t limit yourself to the suggested fabrics. With all of the different fibers and fabrics available, it is easy to be confused about what each fabric actually is. Instead, focus on the visual cues provided by photographs or illustrations. Consider the garment’s silhouette – whether it hugs the body’s contours or has a more relaxed fit. Observe the lines within the garment, paying attention to how they depict folds in the fabric as it drapes over the body. Are they gently curved, or jagged and broken? Curved lines suggest a soft fabric, like silk, while angular lines generally indicate a crisper material, such as the cotton used in men’s dress shirts.

Consider seamlines as well. The more seams there are to control fabric over the body, the less drape the intended fabric has. Garments with fewer seams or dart shaping often pair well with drapey fabrics, providing movement and flow over the body. The major exceptions to this rule are six- and eight-gore skirts with drape and flare, as well as eveningwear. Examine the overall silhouette of the garment, noting whether it follows the natural curves of the body or stands independently.

Hemlines, too, offer valuable insights. Take cues from ready-to-wear manufacturers who meticulously test fabric and pattern combinations – their choices can provide valuable guidance.

See the Fabric

Understanding the characteristics of your chosen fabric is crucial. Choose a variety of fabrics from your stash in different weights, in knits and wovens, then conduct simple tests with them, including the corner test for drape, the fist test for transparency, the stretch test for flexibility, the grab test for weight, and the crumple test for wrinkle resistance. These tests, when applied to different fabrics, help you discern their unique qualities and applications.

Corner Test: The corner test, which tests drape, is the easiest test of all. Pick up the fabric by one corner, and let it drop. Look at the drape of the fabric. Does it fall in a wide triangle or a narrow line? Are the folds soft and rounded or sharp and crisp? Does each side hang differently? Unless your fabric is a perfect square, they probably wilt because one side will have the weight of the yardage pulling it down. Note your observations.

Fist Test: With the fist test, bring your fist up through the center of your fabric and let the fabric hang from it. Can you see the shape of your hand clearly through the fabric? Can you count the valleys between your fingers? Some fabrics will fall into every nook and cranny, while others will skim over the area, merely hinting at what is beneath.

Stretch Test: Try stretching the fabric on each grain: straight, cross, and bias. This will help you understand how much give is built into the fabric. A fabric with no stretch on straight or cross grain but a great deal on bias will need careful handling during cutting and sewing.

Grab Test: The grab test helps determine the bulk or weight of a fabric, which is essential to fit. Begin with your lightweight fabrics and move to progressively heavier fabrics. Start at a corner. Using your fingers, try to grab as much of the fabric into your fist as possible. With a very lightweight fabric, you may get in a whole yard; with a heavy fabric, perhaps only a small square.

Crumple Test: Hold the bunched fabric in your fist, and squeeze, counting to five. Let go, and notice whether the wrinkles stay in place. This will help you determine how to use a fabric-do you really want “sitting wrinkles” in your new pants?

See Your Body

Finally, consider your own body and personal style. A fabric may be well-suited for a pattern but not necessarily for your body type or personal style. Use a full-length mirror and drape the fabric over your body, visualizing how it interacts with your unique features. Use your hands to mold it into a simulation of the style you intend. If it is a jacket, drape the right length over your shoulder from the back, letting the rest fall behind. Skirts can use the length or the width. Fold the fabric to get the right length on you. Play with the fabric. Wrap it around you. Your attitude towards that fabric when you see it on your body will help you determine how to use it in a way that makes you feel great about yourself. This step is more effective than using a dress form, as it enables you to see yourself in the fabric, lumps, bumps, and all. Sewers know, the fabric will sing to you, shout at you, and whisper what it wants to be.

Fabric-Pattern Partnership

Through this holistic approach, you’ll develop a natural eye for fabric-pattern partnerships. Some initially chosen fabrics may not work, but this process often sparks new ideas for their use. As you become more adept at understanding the interplay of fabric and form, experimenting with interfacing, underlining, or embellishment will become second nature. Remember, like any skill, the ability to truly see and understand will improve with practice. Soon enough, you’ll feel more confident and successful in exploring a diverse range of fabric choices for your sewing projects. This hands-on approach ensures that your final garment not only aligns with your stylistic preferences but also enhances your body’s natural silhouette for a personalized and flattering fit.

We all love to sew but sometimes you want to switch up your sewing projects beyond your own clothes, quilts, or placemats. What do you do? Look for opportunities to share you sewing skills with others in need.

Donating your time and talents is a selfless act. While your donation makes a direct impact in another’s life, the benefits to you are just as important. Giving is in our nature and those that do experience a sense of personal satisfaction and feelings of self-worth. These feelings can result in lower blood pressure, lower depression rates, and longer life expectancy. Additionally, research has found that donating activates the pleasure center in your brain and results in improved happiness, joy, and contentment.

ASG Chapters are known for their charitable sewing nature and almost always have numerous charitable sew-ins, events, and more that are geared towards community needs. However, if you either can’t participate, or would like to spend time doing more, there are myriad national charity organizations that welcome sewn items. It’s just a matter of connecting, learning about their needs, and matching up your sewing skills to help fulfill the need.

Below is a list of some (by no means all) national and international organizations that welcome sewn items.

• American Hero Quilts: patriotic quilts for wounded military veterans.
• Binky Patrol: blankets and quilts for children who need comfort.
• Capes for Kids: super-hero capes for children in shelters.
• Charlotte’s Purpose: Wrapped in Love project for burial gowns and layettes for stillborn infants made from wedding gowns.
• Days for Girls: bags and hygiene supplies for menstruating girls around the world.
• Doll Adoption Program: dolls for children in shelters.
• Dress a Girl Around the World: dresses for girls in need.
• Giving Doll: handmade dolls for hospitalized children.
• Little Dresses for Africa: dresses for girls in Africa.
• Newborns in Need: blankets, quilts, bibs, etc. for newborn babies.
• Operation First Response: backpacks and cot quilts for hospitalized wounded soldiers.
• Prayers & Squares: quilts for those in need of comfort.
• Project Linus: blankets and quilts for kids in need.
• Project Smile: stuffed animals for children in need.
• Quilts for Kids: quilts for children in need.
• Quilts of Honor: patriotic quilts for active military and veterans.
• Quilts of Valor: patriotic quilts awarded to military veterans.
• Ryan’s Case for Smiles: pillowcases for hospitalized children with serious illnesses.
• Sew Much Comfort: adaptive clothing for injured military veterans’ needs.
• Sew Powerful Purses: purses to hold hygiene supplies for girls in Zambia.
• Sleeping Bag Project: sleeping bags for the homeless.
• Stitchin’ for Kids: sewn gifts for children with extended hospital stays.
• Threads of Love: clothing and blankets for premature and sick infants.
• Traveling Pillowcases: pillowcases for kids in shelters.

Think Local

No matter how small your community, it’s very likely that you can put your sewing expertise to use in a charitable way. Call your local animal shelter to see if they can use pet beds, blankets, scarves, or leashes. Contact a local hospital to offer specialty bags for post-surgery patients, blankets or quilts for dialysis and chemo patients, or even drawstring bags for patients to keep their possessions nearby while bedridden.

If you have a children’s hospital, think not only of blankets and quilts, but toys, stuffed animals, and accessories to keep kids entertained during long stays.

Hospice groups are often in need of colorful gowns to add cheer to patients’ days—easy projects for even beginners.

Homeless shelters and those for domestic abuse victims offer sewing opportunities galore, as often the residents have very little to nothing of their own. A sewn shirt, pants or dress, or even a tote could be a life changer, especially if there might be a job interview down the road to recovery. Or simple survival items like hats, mittens, and scarves can be lifesavers.

The Basics

Sewing projects for charity can be something you do alone or with your group of ASG friends so there’s a social aspect to it as well. Of course, more hands make the task not only more fun, but also faster.

• Choose quality fabrics and avoid the temptation to use up “ugly” fabrics in your stash. People in need, for whatever reason, need to feel appreciated and dignified.
• If you’re making large quantities of items, note that some manufacturers may donate items for use in the charitable sewing efforts. It never hurts to ask.
• Be sure to double check the rules for each organization regarding their accepted donations. For example, many do not accept items from homes with smokers, or those tainted with pet hair, due to potential allergies. Other groups specify fabric types for donated items, or the construction process (i.e. no tied quilts, etc.). Some groups are in need of things of a specific size, for either garments, blankets or quilts.
• Some organizations may have deadlines for donations that correspond with things like international shipping schedules, so be sure to double check how they need to receive goods.
• Choose items to make as a group that can be broken into smaller tasks for assembly line construction. For example, on pillowcases, one person can cut trim strips, another can serge seams, etc.

However you choose to share your sewing skills, whether it’s on your own, with an organized event, remember that your creativity and talents are just as beneficial to you as they are to others.

~Linda Griepentrog is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and three dogs, Yohnuh, Abby, and Lizzie. Contact her at .