Sewing – Page 21

May 5, 2023

The Humble Seam Ripper

Much as we hate to admit it, we all make mistakes, and sometimes those are stitching-related. But, luckily there’s a tool for that—the humble seam ripper.

Seam rippers come in many styles and shapes, but they all function in a similar way to remove errant stitches so we can fix whatever caused the error in the first place.

Anatomy of a Ripper

All seam rippers have blades of some sort for cutting, and they all have handles. Most rippers also come with a safety cap to protect not only the blade, but humans, when the tool is not in use.

Handles come in all shapes, sizes, and materials, so it’s a matter of finding one that fits your hand comfortably. Look for plastic, wood, or metal handles. Some rippers are flat on one side to prevent the tool from rolling on the table, others offer loops for hanging on a ribbon or cord. It’s a good idea to test out the “feel” of a ripper before purchasing it—is it comfortable in your hand?

Safety caps help protect the delicate ripper blade from nicks, moisture, and inadvertent drops to the floor. Some caps are attached to the tool for easy storing while others are separate.

If you’re ripping something out at night, and/or it’s a dark thread on a dark fabric, a built-in light is helpful for greater visibility. Look for this battery-powered accoutrement to help save your eyesight. Another helpful addition is a magnifier, especially if you have vision issues. A light and a magnifier together help get the blade to the right place in the stitching line.

Lighted, magnifiying seam ripper — Dritz Magnified LED Seam Ripper available on Amazon.

Sometimes rippers are combined with other tools, like tiny scissor blades, a stiletto or a needle threader on the opposite end of the ripping blade, so you get two tools in one device.

Hand-turned seam ripper and stilettos — Hand-turned wooden handle seam ripper/stiletto combination created by the author’s husband

But, probably the most important feature of a seam ripper is the blade that’s doing all the work. Look for rippers with a flat metal blade that look like a surgical scalpel—either curved or straight and with either permanent or replaceable blades. Another blade option is a U-shaped blade with a small plastic ball on one section of the point (to protect the fabric). The longer point extends beyond the shorter one to help guide the fabric as you rip. A third blade type is retractable, pulling itself into the handle with a slide lock. This adds a safety feature, especially if you have children near your sewing tools.

Slice Safety Seam Ripper with manual retraction, available on Amazon.

Using a ripper

There are multiple ways to use a seam ripper, but of course the ultimate goal is to remove the wayward stitching without harming the fabric. It’s easy to accidentally tear the fabric with the sharp point of a ripper, forcing another creative option for repair.

One common way to use a ripper is to slide the blade under a stitch at regular intervals, popping the thread. Cut every 3-4 stitches, pull out threads, and repeat along the length needed. Once you have removed all the threads, press the area to help remove the needle holes.

Accidentally made a hole in your fabric with a seam ripper? Restitch the seam just inside the previous stitching line to avoid any visible holes.

You can also use the seam ripper point to pick out the seam stitch by stitch.

Perhaps the fastest way to rip, but the riskiest, is to hold open the seam and slice down the stitches with the ripper blade. It’s hard for one person to do this, so use a “third hand” tool or get a sewing buddy to help you hold the seam open.

If you need to remove serger stitches, simply slide the ripper blade under the looper stitches and move it along the edge.

~Linda Griepentrog is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and three dogs, Yohnuh, Abby, and Lizzie. Contact her at .

April 28, 2023

Sewing Reversible Clothing

Sewing reversible garments is a practical idea and can be a fun and creative way to add versatility to your wardrobe. They can also help you to save space in your suitcase when traveling.

Making Choices

Coats and jackets are logical choices, letting the collars and rolled back cuffs show off the contrast fabric. Vests are also easy to do in two different fabrics. Simple dresses, tops, and skirts are perfect for summer. Skirts can be wrap-style or have a shared elastic waist. Look for patterns that are made to be reversible; however, if you can’t find a “reversible” pattern, look for one with simple style, minimal seams and details, and try to avoid anything with complicated details.

When choosing fabric, shop for ones with a similar weight, drape, and stretch for both sides. Choose fabrics that are not too bulky or stiff as this can make the garment uncomfortable to wear or difficult to sew. Drape both fabrics over your hand to feel the weight and make sure it won’t be uncomfortable to wear. As an alternative to two solid colors, try a solid with a print, or even two compatible prints for an especially interesting look. You could also choose fabrics that have different textures or prints on each side to add interest to your garment.

Cutting & Techniques

Cut both layers exactly alike and unless your pattern is specifically made to be reversible, trim hems to 5/8.” Do any embellishing, and add details such as pockets, prior to construction. Depending on the weight of the fabric and fit of the pattern, you may need to add a little to the seams.

Plan your construction carefully to ensure that your seams and finishing techniques work for both sides of the garment. It helps to consider which side you want to be the primary side and work from there.

You’ll need to use techniques that allow the garment to look good on both sides. For example, French seams or flat-felled seams are great for joining two layers of fabric without any exposed raw edges. You could also use bias binding or facing to finish off the edges.

Construction

Cheri’s Reversible Jacket – SafT Pockets

To accomplish the reversibility, select one of two methods of construction: right sides together and turned inside out, or wrong sides together and bound on the edges.

For the first, sew layers together, being very accurate in aligning raw edges. Leave an opening of about 8″ in the middle of one side seam or along the bottom back hem. Trim and grade seam allowances to eliminate bulk between the layers. Reach up and pull everything through the opening to right side, and then press carefully. Slipstitch the opening and topstitch all around for crisp, even edges.

For the second method of construction, join the two layers with wrong sides together, carefully matching raw edges. Finish inside seams with any technique that looks neat on both sides, such as flat fell or French. Trim away seam allowances on the outside edges and hems, baste together, and finish all around with bias binding or fold over braid. For casual styles, decorative serging is another option.

If they work for you and your pattern, add soft shoulder pads that can flip in either direction, tacking them between layers. Instead of buttonholes, consider button and loop closures, using different buttons.

If you are making a reversible jacket or coat, consider using reversible zippers or buttons to make it easy to wear the garment inside out. These zippers or buttons are designed to work on both sides of the garment, making it easy to switch between the two.

Overall, sewing reversible garments can be a fun and rewarding project. With the right fabric, stitches, and techniques, you can create a versatile and stylish piece that you can wear in multiple ways, and on multiple days!

April 21, 2023

Sewing Tools: What’s This?

We all know that sewing enthusiasts need certain tools to function—a sewing machine, scissors, thread, pins, etc.—but there are some other tools of the trade that might just be nice to have. Are they a necessity? No. Are they a convenience? Absolutely. Let’s take a look at some of those handy-to-have specialty items.

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Needleboard

If you work with velvet, velveteen, corduroy or plushes, you know how difficult it is to press without crushing the pile or imprinting the holes of the steam iron onto the fabric. The surface of a needleboard, as its name suggests, is covered with short metal pins that fit between the pile strands of a plush fabric for pressing. It keeps the fabric backing elevated without crushing the surface pile. To use, simply place the fabric face down onto the protrusions, then lightly press.

With a somewhat hefty price tag, a needleboard is a luxury, but if you work with these pile fabrics frequently, it’s something you may truly deem a necessity as the pressing results speak volumes.

Seam Roller

We’ve all been taught to press seams as we sew, so whether you’re pressing open a quilt block seam or setting a facing seam, this handy seam roller lets you do that at your sewing machine without a trip to the ironing board. Just hold the seam in the direction you need it, then roll over it using a moderate amount of pressure, depending on the fabric. It’s handy to reach small areas where it’s difficult to get an iron, and it keeps your fingers out of the way. In addition, the seam roller can be used to make creases at fold lines and edges. If you’re a scrapbooker or card maker, it works well on paper too.

Sticky Tape

There are times when having a measuring tape with a sticky backing comes in handy and there are multiple types available. Look for ½”, 1” and 1 ½” widths, and differing calibrations. Sticky masking tape comes with incremental markings of 1/16” up to 1/8”, and some brands come with metric markings as well. The tape can adhere not only to your cutting table or sewing machine base plate, but to your garment or other sewing project to help mark seam allowances, pleat spacing, buttonhole lengths, quilting or topstitching lines, etc. It won’t damage the surface on most fabrics and leaves no residue.

Buttonhole Knife

There’s nothing scarier than having your garment all finished and it’s time to cut open the buttonholes. One slip and you’re facing some creative solutions to repair and disguise potential errors. A buttonhole knife helps with that trepidation. Coming with a tiny cutting mat or a wooden cutting block to protect your table surface, the cutter has a sharp knife edge to slice open buttonholes without severing the stitches. It can be used straight on or at an angle, depending on the size of the buttonhole. For keyhole buttonholes, some cutters also come with a separate punch to open the circular end. Just press down on the tool for a smooth cut. If the buttonhole is longer than the blade width, move it along the length after the initial cut.

Bernina Buttonhole Knife in use — Image courtesy of Bernina

Stiletto

Stilletto — Stiletto available on Amazon

If you have ever wished for a third hand, the stiletto is your answer. This sharp little tool is handy for guiding fabric under the presser foot and aligning edges as you sew. It fits very close to the presser foot—closer than your fingers. If you’re crossing over seams, it can hold them open as you pass, or push them in a single direction if preferred. When sewing bulky fabric like wool suiting and coating, the stiletto can help push them flatter as you approach the presser foot. Tedious needle-turn appliqué is easier with a stiletto, as you can easily fold under the fabric’s raw edge with the point. Sharp-pointed stilettos can also be used to punch holes for eyelets or grommets. Most stilettos are metal, but others are plastic or bamboo and some brands of stilettos have a blunter point than others, but function in a similar way (except for punching holes). Don’t have one? Use the longer point of your seam ripper for the same functions, or hunt up a super-sharp porcupine quill!

April 13, 2023

Ideas for Redesigning Front Openings (preview)

Are you tired of the same look for the front openings of your tops or jackets? These creative ideas to redesign those openings with different closures will elevate the look of your garments from basic to fashion-forward and are adaptable to a simple blouse, a casual top, or a jacket.

When making these adjustments, the most important marking is the center front. This is where you will make the changes to the pattern that will allow you to create many different styles. By focusing on the center front, the garment will always retain the same fit and when closed and buttoned, the center fronts will always meet. Select any one of these basic top patterns and create the design you choose.

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April 7, 2023

Purely Fluff: DIY Chenille

Chenille run, photo courtesy of Bernina — Chenille rug photo, courtesy of Bernina

If you love the look of vintage chenille fabric, you can easily duplicate that look for any of your projects. The technique involves layering fabrics, stitching, cutting and fluffing, and the resulting fabric is suitable for garments, quilts, pillows, etc. It’s warm because of the multiple layers, and it’s comfy with a fluffy texture.

Choosing Fabrics

Chenille works best with fabrics that aren’t too tightly woven. Looser weave fabrics, like gauze and homespun, will produce more fringing. Quilting cottons, rayon challis and flannels are also ideal candidates, and each will produce a distinctly different looking fluff. Knit fabrics do not work for this technique. It’s a good idea to pre-shrink your choices first to avoid having the multiple layers shrink at different rates and cause distortion.

You’ll need several fabric layers—anywhere from 4-8 layers, depending on the fabric weight and the desired finished hand. The fabric layers can all be the same, or they can be different, both in color and fabric type.

Stacking Up

Cut the fabrics at least 2” larger all around than the finished amount needed. If you’re making a garment, rough-cut the pattern shapes this amount larger. Smooth the fabrics flat on a surface and layer them in the desired order with the lowest layer face down and the remaining layers face up. Note that if the top fabric is a print, it likely won’t be discernible once the piece is finished; only the bottom layer will be. If you’re making a quilt, the bottom fabric (face down) will become the quilt backing; on a garment, it will be the “lining.” However, some quilters prefer the fluffy side to be the quilt backing as it’s soft to the skin.

If you want a multi-color layer, arrange scraps across the surface atop another fabric layer—just overlap to avoid a gap in the finished pile.

Pin the layers together randomly to help with shifting.

Ready, Set…Stitch

Draw a single line on the top layer of fabric at a 45° angle to one edge. On a garment, the line should be measured from the front and/or back center line, on a quilt or pillow, from the project edge. It’s important that the line is on the bias grain of the fabric.

Set the machine for a smaller than normal stitch length—2.0mm—and sew along the drawn line. Using the presser foot as a guide for spacing, sew parallel lines across the entire fabric piece 3/8”-1/2” apart.

Using a walking foot or dual feed will help keep the layers feeding evenly, but don’t worry if they shift a little, as it won’t affect the outcome of the project.

Cutting Up

If you’re making a quilt, now is the time to square it up and trim off the excess fabric. Do the same for a pillow. If you’re making a garment, lay the pattern over the stitched fabric layers and cut out the shape needed.

Step 4: Slash between each line of stitching

Then come the magic—slashing the channels! Without cutting through the bottom layer, use small sharp pointed scissors or a chenille or slash cutter to cut between each line of stitching.

A Slash Cutter, like this one from Clover, is a great tool to use for this step. The Slash Cutter is available at your local retailer or can be purchased on Amazon. (We may receive a small commission at no additional cost to you if you purchase via our Amazon link).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TIkf5DcA9mU

Once all the channels are slashed, use a large zigzag to stitch around the edges of the piece.

Finishing Up

Once the chenille process is complete, make the project as you normally would. For garments, the backing fabric can act as a lining and seam allowances can be bound or strapped to hide the rough edges. It’s best to avoid the extra bulk of a facing or hem, so bind garment edges instead of conventional construction.

Into the Wash

Throw the finished project into the washer and dryer as you would normally care for the fabric type. Adding a bath towel helps with fringing by providing an abrasive surface during agitation.

When the piece comes out of the dryer, it should be fluffed and chenille-y looking. If it didn’t fluff as much as you’d like, brush the surface with a stiff nylon brush or a chenille brush to add more richness.

Chenille Brush — Using a chenille brush. Photo courtesy of Bernina

Step 6: After laundering, drying, and brushing

Time for Play!

Make some test samples before starting your project:

Experiment by stacking the same fabrics in differing orders and see the difference in the finished looks.
Use a different number of layers to vary the fringed looks.
Stitch different width channels. You can go all the way up to 1” apart, but the backing fabric shows through at the larger widths…not necessarily bad, just a different look.
Work with all the same color solid fabric for a seriously plush look.
Change line direction to form a chevron—but keep the lines at a 45° angle to the fabric grain.