Sewing – Page 55

July 19, 2019

What do you do with fabric scraps?

Do you ever wonder what happens to the fabric scraps you send to the landfill? Or how long it takes for those scraps to break down to soil? Americans sent 12.8 million tons of textiles to landfills in 2013. The Council for Textile Recycling states that approximately 5% of waste currently in landfills is fabric waste.

According to Fashion Revolution, “In landfill, the decomposing clothes release methane, a harmful greenhouse gas. Synthetic fabrics like polyester and lycra can take hundreds of years to biodegrade.” Research done by Down2EarthMaterials shows that thread takes 3-4 months to breakdown; cotton takes 1-5 months; and nylon clothes take 30-40 years.

There are places you can take your leftovers that will recycle scraps as well as clothing unfit to donate to resell stores. These recycling locations accept all scraps except those that are wet or contaminated with hazardous material (paint thinner, harsh cleaning products, etc.). The scraps are sent or sold to S.M.A.R.T. (Secondary Materials and Recycling Textiles), a trade association whose independent member businesses work to recycle textiles. Subsequently they are cut into rags or processed into a soft fiber filling for furniture, home insulation, car sound proofing and more. Just 5% are sent to landfills due to moisture or contamination. Nearly all textiles are recyclable.

Where to Recycle

The following is a partial list of charities and businesses that take scraps and clothing in any condition:

Goodwill Stores – check that your location accept scraps
Salvation Army – check that your location accept scraps
H&M clothing stores will take bags of textiles and give you a coupon to shop in their store
Earth911 provides a search function to find recycling locations near you

This article pertains only to textile recycling, meaning those scraps that can’t be reused by charities or schools for art projects etc. Seamstresses unite! Let’s do our part to care for Mother Earth.

References:

Huffington Post LIFE 9/28/2016 updated 4/12/2019 by Suzy Strutner
Some statistics from the Environmental Protection Agency

~Original article by Barbara Ward, Salt Lake Chapter. Additions by ASG.

July 17, 2019

Traveling This Summer? Make ASG Part of Your Plans!

When traveling, I always like to stop in local quilt and fabric stores, as I am sure all ASG members do. We like to see (and probably buy!) fabric that is not available in our local stores. And if you are a quilter, you may like participating in the Row-by-Row project each year, collecting block patterns from the stores you visit. But your travels to other cities in the U.S. can be even more rewarding if you include ASG in your travel plans.

Making Travel Plans

I was in Fort Collins, CO for four months last summer to oversee some remodeling work on a house that we will be moving to. My husband was not able to go with me because he is still working, so I was there by myself. My nearest friends and family were an hour’s drive away! So how do you make new friends during an extended stay? Well, ASG of course!

About a month before I left, I contacted the President of the Fort Collins chapter, Patti Page. I wasn’t sure of the response I might receive; after all, people are busy with work and family. But Patti was very welcoming and told me about their small group meetings and other activities that would be happening during the time I would be there. Turns out, attending some meetings was just the beginning.

One woman who hosts one of the small groups in her home invited me to another organization’s event which was a tour of a fashion museum on the campus of Colorado State University. There I saw two interesting exhibits—one was 1000+ vintage handkerchiefs while the other was a small exhibit exploring the use of orange in fashion over the decades. Although I have visited Fort Collins many times over the past 30 years, I never knew about this museum.
From another member, I learned about two stores in Denver that are a must-visit. I never made it to Denver, but I now have places to visit when we move. From another member I learned about a small but very interesting modern quilt exhibit.
From yet another member, I learned of a class that was being offered by the Greeley chapter and I was able to sign up for that class. I may have eventually learned of these things, but reaching out to the local ASG chapter greatly accelerated that process.

So next time you are planning a trip, include ASG in your plans. You can find fabric stores without anyone’s help, but you’ll get the inside scoop of other interesting sewing-related events going on if you reach out to members of the local chapter where you are visiting. It need not be an extended stay like mine to take advantage of the knowledge of the local sewing scene.

Your ASG membership is not just with one chapter; you are a member of a nation-wide organization and have a wonderful opportunity to take advantage of having a group of ready-made friends who share your interests.

Not a member of ASG? Join now!

~Leta Smith, member since 2015, Houston Chapter

July 5, 2019

Travel Iron Caddy

Whether you are packing supplies to take to ASG Conference, or heading to a chapter stitching event, this caddy is the perfect way to safely and easily take your travel iron with you. I made the caddy to fit my Sun Beam Compact Travel Iron model #GCSBT-100, but there are similar size models by Dritz, Rowenta, and other Iron makers. It also fits nicely in my sewing machine caddy along with my 9”x 12” Omnigrid combination cutting and pressing board.

Materials

24” x 11” body fabric
3” x 11” body fabric for handle strap
24” x 11” lining fabric
24” x 11” Insul Brite fabric (insulated to protect from heat)
7” ¾” Hook & Loop Velcro
3” piece of Wonder Under
Quilter Ruler with 45 degree angle marking

Legend

RS = right side of fabric
WS = wrong side of fabric

Instructions

Strap: Fold 3” x 11” strip of fabric in half lengthwise WS together and press. Open and press both long edges in, ½” to WS then fold again 1” to WS overlapping, giving you a 1” wide strap. Now stitch lengthwise to reinforce the strap along both edges and up the middle. Set strap aside for next step.

Body of Bag: Layer Insul Brite, lining fabric RS up and then body fabric WS up. Insul Brite will be your bottom layer against the needle plate when you sew. Pin layers together around the inside of the rectangle to hold the layers together. Place long top edge of the strap to RS of body fabric layer 3 ½” down from top edge, double check your fabrics if using a one way directional fabric for your body fabric to make sure the direction of your strap and body are going the same way (Image 1). Stitch around all four edges using a 3/8” seam allowance but leaving a 3’ opening for turning on the bottom edge. Run an extra row of stitching over the strap edges to reinforce (Image 2).

Before turning, clip off the corners outside the corner stitching to allow for less bulk at the corners, be careful not to clip your stitches (Image 3). Turn and press, using a piece of Wonder Under to close the opening.

There are no images in this gallery.

Closure: With panel facing RS up, place hook side of Velcro centered at bottom, ¼” up from edge and stitch in place. Leave at least ¾” on each end to accommodate your side seams, trim Velcro if necessary. Lining side up, place the loop Velcro at the top and stitch in place ¼” from top edge, lining up with the bottom edge placement.

With WS together, fold bottom edge up to 5” below top edge and stitch both side seams using ¼” seam allowance or as small as possible, back stitching at top edge to reinforce. (Image 4)

Turn the bag inside out and box the bottom seams. To box the bottom, use a quilter ruler with a 45 degree angle guide. Pin across bottom of the angle on both edges to create the boxed bottom and sew along pinned edges. (Image 5) Turn RS out.

This little iron caddy, with it’s bucket shape, will hold my iron and a few other small items. It also fits into the open space of my machine for travel.

~Carolyn Meyers, ASG Member, Bucks County Chapter

June 28, 2019

Zip It Up

Zippers have a bad rap as being difficult to work with; however, they are simple to insert when stitched correctly with the proper feet. I recommend using the All-Purpose Foot and the Edge Stitching Foot. You’ll marvel at the ease of inserting zippers in pockets, pillows, handbags and garments when using the right tool. Consider letting a zipper make a statement on your next project by using decorative zippers. The opportunities are endless and the results so much fun. Whether for garments or bags, you can insert zippers trouble free, the easy way.

Did you know that zippers were originally designed for closure on boots? As time progressed zippers were added to garments for closure instead of the traditional buttons. Today, zippers can be seen everywhere, not only garments, but shoes, luggage, sports and outdoor products like tents, sleeping bags, home décor, jewelry, trims and the list goes on and on. The sky is the limit.

Zippers are available in many configurations

They may be purchased by the yard or in a roll, closed end (C/E), open end or separating (O/E) to name a few.
The sliders may have several different options as well — locking, 2-way open-end/separating, double slide, and reversible.
They are available in metal, nylon coil, molded plastic teeth and rhinestone.
They are also available in a variety of sizes
- #3 is the tradition size used for a dress, skirt or pants. The coil is approximately ⅛” or 4mm.
- #5 is a size used in jackets or outer wear. The coil or teeth (chain) are approximately ¼” or 6mm.
The size of the chain may be larger for luggage and other sports related products, or smaller for children’s wear, dolls and such.

Of course, much of this has changed, nowadays, with zippers being used in a variety of ways other than the traditional.

My Favorite Zippers

My favorite zippers are #3 coil for inside pockets of handbags or small bags, and #5 for handbag closure, jackets and coats. I particularly love the nylon coil, plastics and rhinestone zippers. In general, I shy away from metal zippers because of the weight, tendency to pull or snag soft fabrics, and possibility to break needles if not properly applied.

Size it Right

Did you know you can shorten a zipper — very carefully, of course — by cutting it? Make sure to purchase the right zipper for your needs though. A separating zipper must be purchased as a separating zipper and can only shortening from the top. A closed end zipper can never be made into a separating zipper as the home sewer does not have the equipment to add the retainer box and insertion pin to a zipper.

Inserting a Zipper

Now that some of the basics are out of the way, this is my favorite way to insert a zipper when the teeth or coil are exposed. It is by no means the only way to insert a zipper, but it is a basic way that I consistently use in my projects. It is also the beginning way of several zipper insertion techniques that I use.

Align the cut edge of the fabric with the edge of the zipper tape so that the right sides are facing each other (right sides together). The zipper stop and zipper slider may extend from each end for easier insertion. Place the needle to the far left position. Stitch the length of the zipper with the All-Purpose Foot leaning against the zipper coil.
Fold the fabric over to expose the zipper coil. Position the Edge-stitching, Edge Joining or Ditch Quilting Foot with the bar between the zipper coil and the fold of the fabric. Move the needle position slightly left of the fold and stitch across.
Repeat this process on the other side of the zipper.
Option: When using a decorative zipper tape, apply these instructions in reverse. In other words, begin Step 1 with the wrong sides together so that when the zipper tape is folded back the tape is exposed.

Discount ahead! Continue reading for a limited time discount on Zippers at www.Ghees.com

Extra Zipper Tips

Use decorative or specialty zippers to enhance the design of the garment or bag.
For special effects, create your own look. Choose two zippers in coordinating colors. Unzip them and swap the colors. Zippers must be of the same style, size of teeth and slider for this design idea to work.
Many times, the zipper pull is in the way of accurate stitching. To maintain a straight stitching line, stop before reaching the zipper pull, leaving the needle in the down position. Lift the presser foot, unzip the zipper a few inches and stitch past the bulky area.
It is much easier to work with zippers that are too long and trim the excess off. Always be certain the slider is included in the project before trimming the excess tape. Refer to how to “Fix a Zipper.”
Because of the bulk in many project, use a Jeans Needle to avoid breaking the needle. Be extremely careful while stitching over bulky areas. Stitch slowly.
To avoid melting the zipper coil on polyester, nylon, or plastic zippers, or scratching the iron with metal zippers, do not press the zipper chain. Use a medium to cool iron setting when pressing around the zipper area of a project.
Use the sewing machine foot that makes the task easier. The Edge Joining Foot, or Ditch Quilting Foot, a foot with a guiding bar in the center of the foot, provides perfect alignment of stitches from the edge of the zipper tape or stitching the binding.

How to Fix a Zipper

It is very easy to “fix a zipper” or add a slider to yardage. Place the slider on one side of the zipper teeth (chain) and hold with your thumb and finger. Place the other side of the zipper teeth into the slider and give it a little tug. You will feel the teeth catch in the slider. Pull the slider to close the zipper. Be sure to stitch over each end of the zipper to protect. The same instruction works with the coil type zippers.

How to Fix a Zipper - Step 1

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Decorating with Zippers

Though zippers were designed for function, they can certainly be used for decoration. This 8” rhinestone zipper was stitch on the back shoulder of a vest. Baste along each edge of the zipper tape leaving thread tails at the beginning and end. Open the zipper. Gather the thread to form the heart shape. Miter the ends of the zipper tape to match the shape of the heart. Use a small zigzag stitch to hold the zipper heart shape on the base fabric.

Cut zippers or zipper yardage to create fantasy flowers. Use glue or hand stitching to hold the shape. Glue is easier!

Make a bracelet with zippers or yardage. One 18” zipper will make 2 bracelets. Simply use an awl to remove the stop or cut the stop off. Pull the zipper chain apart. Overlap the tape and stitch using an open type decorative stitch to hold the tape together. Add snaps or rhinestones to embellish. Use embroidery stitches to hold the zipper tape together.

Use zippers or zipper yardage instead of corded piping. This photo shows the beginning and ending when a seam allowance is not available to hide the ends. It may be necessary to trim or clip the tape when curves are part of the project as the zipper tape does not have any give. I like to use the Piping Wizard to trim evenly and accurately. This is nylon coil zipper that looks like metal.

Discount

Enjoy a 30% discount on everything in the Zipper category of www.Ghees.com through midnight on July 13, 2019 using code zipit30asgj. After that date, ASG members can log in to the Members Only area for a discount code for 15% off all non-sale items in the Ghee’s store. Discounts cannot be combined.

~Linda McGehee, Ghees

June 26, 2019

Join Threads Magazine in Sewing for ASG Conference

Sarah and Erica from Threads Magazine — Sarah, left, and Erica, from the Threads staff, are sewing Simplicity ASG pattern designs for Wear Your ASG Patterns Day at conference. Sarah’s muslin is in yellow rip stop nylon, a stash orphan, if you were wondering.

The American Sewing Guild’s annual conference is always a blast. Every time I attend, I enjoy classes, shopping, the fashion show, the keynote address, and all the sewing camaraderie.

ASG Conference is August 1 through 4, 2019, in the greater Boston area, and the Threads team is raring to go!

We recently started a group project especially for conference: Sewing garments from Simplicity ASG patterns for Wear Your ASG Pattern Day on August 1. To share our progress, and encourage you to sew some of these great patterns too, we’re presenting a monthly Facebook Live posts at Facebook.com/ThreadsMagazine. Tune in to watch our exploits, help us with fabric choices, and keep us on track!

The Patterns

Erica is sewing Simplicity ASG 8137, views C and D. What a cute top and pants.
Jeannine is sewing Simplicity ASG 8384. She’s making dress view A, with the sleeves from view B.
Carol is making up Simplicity ASG 8014, view B, with the collar from view A. She has a head start because she previously sewed a version for a Threads article,” Embellishments: Rickrack Weaving,” by Loretta Kostyk in #196.
Christine is sewing Simplicity ASG 8637, a wrap dress with a graceful curved hem. She’s sewing view A, and I can’t wait to see the results in the gorgeous crepe fashion fabric she chose.
I’m sewing Simplicity ASG 8735, a wrap dress with a pattern feature I find saves me time: separate pattern pieces for different bust cup sizes. I haven’t decided on a view yet, but I made my muslin in view C.

Facebook Live Sessions

May 31st, 2019: In our first Threads Live session, we shared our pattern selections and fabric options. Watch the session on our Facebook videos page, Threads Live.
June 28, 2019, 11am (Eastern): On Friday, June 28 at 11 a.m. (Eastern), we’re going to talk about muslins and fitting adjustments. We did some preliminary work on muslin-fitting. Erica and Jeannine both needed circumference adjustments, while I needed some length taken out of the back of my muslin. We’ll share more details in the Threads Live session.
July 26, 2019, 11am (Eastern): On July 26, we plan to have our finished garments completed to share on Facebook.

Preliminary Fitting

Erica

Erica’s top muslin was too large in circumference (left). Pinning along the side seams made a difference, but there’s more fitting to be done around the armscye and shoulders (right).

Sarah

Notice the horizontal crinkling at the back waistline in Sarah’s muslin (left). Pinning out a wedge across the back waistline alleviated that fitting problem (right).

Hope you’ll tune in to Threads Live—and join us in sewing for ASG conference. Cheers!

~ Sarah McFarland, Editor, Threads magazine