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September 25, 2021

2021 ASG Conference Update

With deep disappointment, we share the news that the 2021 Conference in Newport Beach has been cancelled.

ASGWe all worked extremely hard to move the conference to October and could not have imagined the ongoing issues that would ultimately prevent the event from happening, including:

  • Many of our educators have been uncomfortable with the idea of participating under current circumstances.
  • Understandable member concerns with travel and gathering have resulted in low registration numbers that wouldn’t allow us to cover the cost of the event.
  • The hotel is still undergoing a remodel and remains understaffed and without an open restaurant on site.
  • Due to staffing concerns with local decorators that set up the booths, we have been unable to contract with anyone for this and were resorting to tabletop displays.
  • With limited display area, low attendance numbers, and ongoing shipping issues, many of our traditional vendors have been choosing to wait until 2022 to participate.

Registrations will be refunded and we understand most airlines are waiving change fees to allow those who have scheduled now to reschedule to next year’s event.

ASG Conference 2022
June 30-July 3 | San Antonio, TX

We are very hopeful that things will improve and our members will be able to safely and happily travel and join together at Conference again.

As with every negative, there are positives. We have now become quite proficient at pivoting to address ongoing changes. Our intentions for moving forward are to work with many of the teachers who would have taught in Newport Beach to convert their classes to virtual events over the coming months. In addition, we will look to work with virtual vendor events as well.

We give our heartfelt appreciation to everyone whose hopes were as high as ours and had planned to attend this year, along with those who were rooting for us to proceed. Sincerest thanks to everyone involved in the planning, especially the Orange County Chapter President, Geri Guerra, and Special Events Chair, Diane Jakubowski.

I wish to personally thank our staff who have struggled to meet and overcome so many challenges throughout this process, along with our Directors whose guidance and support has been so valuable. An abundance of gratitude goes out to the educators that have worked with us to provide class offerings for this year’s conference.

Finally, we send our thanks to each of you, our members, for your patience and understanding as we navigate these waters and once again begin the process of creating new plans. We will continue to keep you updated as new information is available.

Sincerely,
Margo Martin
Executive Director

Tagged With: ASG Conference, conference

February 14, 2020

Linda MacPhee named Keynote Speaker for 2020 Conference

Linda MacPhee

ASG is excited to announce that international designer Linda MacPhee will be the keynote speaker at the 2020 conference in San Antonio. As our way of introducing her to you, we have selected her as our independent designer of the month for February. Linda hails from Alberta, Canada and will be once again making her way back to conference.

Sears Catalog for Inspiration

As number 5 of six kids and raised on a family farm in northern Alberta, money wasn’t abundant. In fact, her early memories include going through the Sears catalog with her siblings and picking out their favorite outfits, only to have a local seamstress try to duplicate them from old garments. Even then she realized the finished product never really did live up to the picture she had chosen and hoped for. That’s why she decided at an early age to try her own hand at sewing. She sewed her first garment when she was about 12 when she wanted a new dress for her cousin’s wedding. “My dress was quite successful I remember; but because I knew nothing of fitting, I had to position myself against a wall so I could use my one hand to hold/grab a handful at the back of the dress to make it look like it fit! I guess that dressmaker likely influenced my desire to create my own look. Looking at family pictures now she really was a master as my brothers were in good looking suits that she had recycled from whatever. My mother didn’t sew or have any interest in sewing, although I’m sure she must have mended and repaired things as necessary. Our dressmaker, Mrs. Schmitt, was from Germany and was truly a master at the sewing machine. (We had a treadle of course!)”

Concerning her formal training, Linda commented, “I joined the local 4-H sewing club when I was old enough and that was my only training until I graduated from high school. I enrolled in Home Economics at the University of Alberta as by that time I was sewing all my clothes and was interested in learning more.”

It Started With a Parka

While working as a district Home Economist for the Department of Agriculture (extension agent) in Northern Alberta and at one of her meetings with 4-H groups, Linda met a leader who had on a beautiful Parka. She was a nurse and had recently immigrated from the Phillipines. While chatting, Linda learned that the woman had made it herself. That set her mind in motion and she set about to make one herself. It was no easy task for the woman had tanned her own coyote skin for the fur trim and had sourced her own fabric (wool duffle) from the local Hudson Bay store. Linda explained, “Well, I didn’t tan my own skin but decided if she (a nurse) could do it so could I—a Home Economist! So I did!! My favorite childhood story that I had read to me many times was “The Little Red Hen,” and the theme has fulfilled itself many times in my life!”

She continued, “One of my responsibilities as the extension agent was to teach adult sewing classes to rural women. I met lots of people and with my parka on, came many requests to make them for people. I had learned also how to make moccasins/mukluks from some of the Native American ladies I had worked with. So in my spare time I started making parkas and matching mukluks for a never ending line up of customers. I charged them $100 which seemed pretty good at the time! I realized quite quickly that the demand would never end, so I decided to teach people how to do it themselves. That was the start of my business!”

The Inuit ladies of the N.W.T. had been making parkas for years so those parkas were the inspiration for the basic design. Wanting her parkas to be different, she added applique and trim, and each one became its own work of art. She came up with many different patterns for parkas and applique designs to help people come up with their own look.

Creating the World’s Easiest Patterns

In commenting on her patterns Linda added, “I have always wanted patterns to be simple, “not rocket science.” I had basic pattern drafting from my university training, but my object was to have as few pattern pieces as possible and as simple construction as I could too. My object was to have everyone be able to make one of whatever I designed. My line of “world’s easiest” patterns were best sellers and business boomed. World’s Easiest meant the pattern was usually one, two or three pattern pieces total! I then taught an army of instructors to help in my quest to get everyone sewing. We then franchised our shops across Canada and life was good (but very busy). By this time I was married and my husband who was an R.C.M.P. officer turned down a transfer and joined the business full time which is the only way I could have carried on. Yes…. we are still happily married 52 years later!”

On the future of sewing…

“I’m seeing a renewed interest in recycling coming from the younger people, and that I find so exciting. They have inspired me to recycle/recreate, and I have made many patterns to help with this aspect of sewing. Once this group discovers the potential of the sewing machine, they will be hooked! This direction has brought me full circle to my humble first attempt!”

In her quest to teach the world to sew, she decided the best way to do it was by having her own T.V. show. It was quite a task to get going but she and her husband managed and directed “Sew Much Fun” and ran with it for 6 seasons (72 shows) which showed on Canadian channels as well as PBS in the U.S. They then developed that into “Linda Macphee’s Workshop” which ran for another 6 seasons. “That was likely the highlight of my career,” she added. “I was awarded the “Woman of Vision” by CTV Television and YWCA “Entrepeneur of the Year” and also an “Award of Merit” from the Canadian government for Business. My alma mater, University of Alberta, awarded me their highest Distinguished Alumni Honor award.”

When asked about her favorite aspect of her job, she replied, “It is creating/designing the original garment and then seeing it through to a pattern to enable me and others to teach the world.”

However, she also reflected, “I have been saddened by the lack of Home Ec training in schools where I think the spark should begin! I never did take Home Ec. in school as my school was too small to have it. I, of course, did take it in University and did earn my teaching degree but opted to teach adults instead of youth.”

“If we can keep the world sewing, I think the future is bright. How you ask? I think the patterns have to be kept quick and easy. More sewing T.V. shows like mine would certainly help to show how easy it can be. For example…..in all the garment patterns I designed (well over 200) there was never a buttonhole in any of them. That was something that a novice might not do well, and my motto always was ‘make it look like you didn’t make it!’”

Being from Canada, Linda was never part of ASG as a member. She said, “I was a sort of member of the Holt Michigan group who I worked with/for many years. I very much enjoyed my work with many ASG chapters across the country. I was always promoting the formation of Canadian groups, but we just don’t have the population to make it work.”

Today Linda describes herself as “sort of retired” and only does “private gigs.” She has stopped doing major sewing shows, but loves doing her own version of fashion shows using local women as models for her garments. She spends her winter months in Mesa, Arizona and finds fun in doing smaller gigs for the multitude of retirement parks within driving distance. You can check out Linda’s patterns at her website at www.macpheeworkshop.com.


~Rosemary Fajgier

Tagged With: ASG Conference, garment sewing, instructor, patterns, sewing

September 27, 2019

Video Interview with Kenneth D. King

Watch our exclusive video interview with Kenneth D. King, couture fashion designer, author and professor at The Fashion Institute of Technology. This lively and informative interview occurred at the American Sewing Guild National Conference 2019 in Boston.

Tagged With: ASG Conference, Fashion, Kenneth D. King

September 20, 2019

2019 Fashion Show

Enjoy the video from the One if by Land, Two if by Sea Fashion Show from the 2019 ASG Conference in Boston. The show was emceed by Nick Coman from Dragonfly Dyeworks.

Tagged With: ASG Conference, Fashion, fashion show, garments

August 16, 2019

An Interview with Kenneth D. King

ASG Conference 2019 is over but the memories live on. There are so many conference highlights, but the topic of this article is the pleasure I had of interviewing Kenneth D. King on Thursday evening. The room filled with anticipation as the interview began. I had been working with Kenneth for months to prepare and the time was finally here. As we sat in front of the audience in our easy chairs, what unfolded was a fun “living room chat” filled with interesting tidbits and lots of laughter. Video of this event will be shared in the future, but that will take a little longer so, in the meantime, I hope you will enjoy these highlights. If you missed the event, you can at least get a taste of the great time we had spending the evening with Kenneth D. King.

Kenneth D. King

Kenneth D. King

Kenneth D. King started his life journey in Salinas, KS. That journey has continued through OKC, San Francisco, and ultimately today, to NYC. He graduated Summa Cum Laude with a BS in Fashion Merchandising in OKC which launched his professional career. From there he moved to San Francisco to work in window display, but decided that he wanted his own business, which he started in 1986. His focus at that time was millinery.

After being in business for three years, he studied French Couture patternmaking for 9 months with Simmin (pronounced “Simone”) Sethna. His career began as a display manager in Oklahoma, but his true identity began to emerge and flourish after branching out on his own. Today we see him as an accomplished designer, adjunct professor, workshop teacher, author of 5 books and more articles and educational publications than I can count. He also has a novel, a podcast, and an audiobook to his credit. His work has been displayed in museums, seen on the red carpet, worn in concert tours, commercials, music videos, and highlighted in publications. His list of accomplishments is long and impressive. What a pleasure it is to spend time hearing from Kenneth D. King.


The Man Behind the Designs

How do you define yourself? Teacher, Designer, Author, or Other?

I’m a hybrid. I call myself a couture designer first, then a teacher, author, and storyteller. Over the years, I’ve realized that the central pivot of my career, has been—my craft. It’s been about making things, figuring out how to make things, writing about that, telling stories about that, teaching that, and entertaining myself and others with that.

More recently, as a writer, I’m embarking on another project—telling a particular story. I have the novel, which spawned the screenplay, and the podcast. Another project to add to my life.


Tell us about your latest book

And by the way, did you know we sold over 150 books for this event!

Why did you write it?

Smart Fitting Solutions by Kenneth D. King
Order Smart Fitting Solutions

I wrote it because Judy Neukam understood better what was in my head than I did. She intuitively knew the information was far more useful, and also knew how to format it in such a way to give value to as many as possible. Also, since I’m a little lazy, she insisted. She also championed the project to the good people at Taunton.

What was the favorite part of the process?

Working with Judy Neukam.

The hardest part?

The fittings and muslins. That was a heavy lift—I did the main part of the sewing, before we photographed, and during, as we were generating the second and third muslins.

How long was this book in the works?

As I remember, it was at least 18 months, but may have stretched a little longer. Books have a long lead time.

Someone asked why you didn’t address pants in this book? Can you talk about that?

Fitting trousers is a whole other topic. For women more than men. Men have two basic shapes and are easier. Since women are more genetically diverse (men have blank spaces on the Y chromosome which explains so much), there is an infinite variety of hip shapes. Hence another book.


Over the Years

How have you seen your style/techniques change over time?

My early work was more structured, with more interlinings and such. My first wave was what I called the “embellishment” work. It was a particular technique that answered a question. I did an evening vest with embellished lapels, and that was my breakout hit—it got me out of retail. But I’m dyslexic, and needed a method to make the embellishments appear symmetrical. I hit on using yardage trim, because of a regular unit of repeat. Answering that question of symmetry made a body of work.

I moved onto sheer fabrics, because the inside is visible from the outside. So there were different questions I had to ask—like how to smock organza without the thread showing, or how to make a complex garment without seams or apparent seams. It’s answering the questions that develops the techniques.

What has shaped those changes?

Simple avoidance of boredom, that’s the easy answer. On a more complex level, I wanted to develop something that wasn’t there already. It’s a response to an experience I had years ago, when I got the see the collection of John Galliano in Paris that got him the job with LVMH.


Those Fabulous Hats!

Tell us the story behind the Elton John hats you designed.

I adored Elton as a teenager. So, when I started in my business selling to a store in L.A. called Maxfield, it was his lyricist Bernie Taupin who bought a vest first. I guess he saw it on Bernie. He went into the store, bought a vest, ordered more, and we were off and running. He has the really good pieces—accessories, hats, vests, dinner jackets, the first footstool. Each hat has a story, but the Diet Coke hat was exciting. He ordered a specific red—lipstick red—so I thought it might be for a specific project. The concert tour in 1988 was wildly exciting and scary—I had to tame a monster (the owner of Maxfield) first, though.


The Barbie Project

You have been involved with so many various projects. This next one looks like it was a lot of fun.

Tell us the story behind your recent Barbie couture project.

I got my start sewing Barbie clothes when I was four. So in January, my sister-in-law gently suggested that her granddaughter was Barbie age and might like some Barbie clothes. I bought a reproduction of the old-school doll, and started making clothes, and posting on Instagram. The fashion editor for New York Magazine saw them, contacted me, and asked me to replicate some looks from the collections for an article they were doing on Barbie as Influencer. So I got paid a whopping amount to make some tiny couture. Then it turned into a rabbit hole—I don’t see an end in sight. But jumping scale, as my friend Marshall says, made me re-think how things go together, as tiny clothes don’t construct like real sized clothes. So little Charlie is getting collections, birthday and Christmas.

https://www.asg.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/KK5-BarbieVideo-1.mp4

 


On Display

You also have some of your work displayed in museums. Where are they? What are they?

I have work in four museums—an evening wrap at the Oakland Museum; three pieces at the DeYoung in San Francisco (hat, evening soufflé jacket, and black faille evening coat); The L.A. County Museum of Art (mermaid gown, couple of hats, couple of vests); and the V&A in London (an hat).

Kenneth D. King museum pieces

How did they end up being on display?

Some were gifted by me, some were gifted by clients, and some were gifted from estates of clients. A museum curator told me years ago that generally it was after 25 years in a client’s collection that they go into museums. That I have so many pieces there is good. I’ve been officially in business since 1987.


Strictly Entertainment

You also have another side to your creativity that veers into the entertainment business. I’m very interested to hear more about those creative avenues. You have a podcast, a novel and screenplay. How did you get involved in these?

I’m always looking to expand my horizons. Also, my second Saturn Return (age 60) was looming, and I was asking myself where to go next.

When I lived in San Francisco, I used to go to stand-up comedy, for enjoyment, as well as to observe and learn how they interact with an audience. After I moved to New York, I would go to what I call “Gay boy summer camp,” upstate. They always had a talent show, and a drag closet. So I decided for my talent to dress up and do some stand-up.

After one of these gigs, someone in the audience came up and told me I was good at it. He was a professional storyteller and said that I really knew how to tell a story. It occurred to me that I’ve been telling stories in class and to friends, so this seemed to be an avenue to follow.

Kenneth King: All Grown Up Now on Amazon

Listen to a personal reading from Kenneth D. King

The novel came about as a talking cure. In the mid-90’s, I had to help a friend out of an abusive relationship. It didn’t turn out like I had planned—it turned my life into a Fellini film for three years. Afterwards, I started writing to make sense of it. That turned into the novel, All Grown Up Now, a friendship in three acts. I self-published it after a frustrating round of talking to agents, them weighing in on what it should be, then saying they weren’t interested even if I changed it.

The novel brought forth the screenplay—it is act three in the novel. It was the story of going to Los Angeles to snatch my friend away, and what happened after. I’ve worked with a writing coach to refine it, and he has said it’s ready to shop around. I’m working with a woman who finds financing for films as well.

The podcast started as a way to get the novel in front of people—it’s the novel in installments. Episodes 1-29 are the novel, which I then turned into an audiobook. Starting with episode 30, people said I should continue, so I call it Season 2: Tales of a Checkered Past. This will one day morph into another audiobook.

I am enjoying the technique of telling a story with sound effects. I find the right sound effect can nail a pint or make a joke. This is an extension of studying stand-up; I listen to talk radio and observe how they use sound effects in addition to talk.

The podcast is also there to promote the film, to anyone who might be interested. It’s my way of telling this particular story to the world. That time in my life was huge—it really was a time where I learned a lot and stretched into a new area of life.


From Here to Where?

Where do you see these creative adventures going in the future?

Time will tell, but my aim is to have the film made, to tell this story. It’s about domestic violence in the gay community—something that isn’t talked about much. But domestic violence doesn’t have a gender, a social class, sexual preference—it’s just violence. It’s a universal story that just happens to be about two men. It’s also a tale of friendship—my friend Mark who got me out of Oklahoma, and how years later I got him out of that hellish relationship.

What should we be watching for next from Kenneth King? Anything new on the horizon you can tell us about?

Aside from pushing my projects forward, I have some articles for Threads Magazine coming out. This time seems to be one of gestation.


The Wisdom of Kenneth D. King

If you could leave us with 3 pearls of sewing wisdom, what would they be?

First—perfectionism is a disease. One can create the illusion of perfection, that’s the best one can do. It will never be perfect. Perfectionism is a form of fear—you can’t really learn anything from mistakes if you are obsessed with being perfect. Also, in my experience, perfectionists seem not to get anything finished.

This leads to the next bit—don’t be afraid of ruining a quantity of fabric, some good. It is the dues you will pay to be proficient. I had a student once who took 18 months to make a tailored jacket—as her first project. She was also a perfectionist. When she was finished (at my insistence), she was disappointed. She asked me how I got so good—my reply was that it wasn’t by taking 18 months on one piece.

Lastly, you don’t have to be good at everything. You just need to be good at what you want to make. That said, try new things, and try to be at least passable in other things.

A smart woman said to me years ago that if one is always at one’s best, one is, at best, mediocre. You don’t have to be brilliant at everything.

Oh. And make muslins!

 


~Sheryl Belson

Note: All images shared with permission

Tagged With: ASG Conference, Fashion, fitting, garment sewing, Kenneth D. King, sewing books

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