fusibles

Maybe you’ve wondered about something related to sewing, but couldn’t find an answer elsewhere. We’re here to help!

Bias Binding

Q. If I want to cut my own bias binding, how do I do that?

A. True bias is a 45° angle to the selvage edge of the fabric. It’s stretchier than either the lengthwise or crosswise grain making it ideal to bind curves. To find that angle, use a ruler with a 45° marking and align that mark with a straight edge of the fabric (selvage) to make your first cut. After the initial cut, use the ruler to cut enough bias strips for your project at the width you need.

Bias binding is usually cut four times the desired finished width, plus seam allowance. So, if you want a ½” finished binding, cut the strips 2 1/2” wide (using a ¼” seam allowance).
Seam the lengths together along the straight grain using a diagonal seam. Why? So that it distributes the bulk of the seam more evenly and the seam allowances aren’t on top of each other making a lump.
If you’re binding something without curves, you can cut binding on the straight grain instead of bias. Simply cut the strips across the width of the fabric and sew them together using diagonal seams to create the length needed.
Fold the binding using a bias tape maker, or apply using another method.

Tip: Watch our short video on how to use a bias tape too

Press Cloth

Q. Why do I need to use a press cloth?

Dritz Pressing Cloth available on Amazon

A. A press cloth is used to protect the fabric so that it isn’t damaged by the iron’s heat. It helps prevent scorching, water marking and errant press marks. Some fabrics develop a shine if they’re pressed directly and it’s irreversible; others can melt. A press cloth can be as simple as a piece of cotton fabric. Some press cloths are napped, others are flat finished, depending on the material you’re using it on. Good fabric choices for press cloths are solid color batiste, muslin and silk organza. The latter allows you to see through the cloth to the fabric detailing below.

Another function of a press cloth can be to add moisture to the pressing process. Some fusible interfacings and stabilizers fuse best with a damp press cloth, and moisture is helpful for shaping wool pieces, like collars and lapels, during the tailoring process.

Fusible Stay Tape

Q. The shoulders in my knit T-shirts seem to stretch. Is there a way to prevent that?

A. Absolutely! You can purchase a straight grain fusible stay tape that can be ironed on over the shoulder seamline area before you stitch the seam. That will maintain the original size of the pattern piece. Another option is to use the selvage area of a similar color woven fabric as a stay tape that you sew over. If you need some give in the shoulder seam, sew over some clear elastic that you stretch ever so slightly as you sew the shoulder seam.

Shredding Thread

Q. What causes my thread to shred (and break) while I’m sewing?

A. There are several things that can cause thread to shred, but most commonly is using the wrong size needle. Thread needs to have clearance to pass freely through the eye of the needle and subsequently through the fabric layers you’re sewing. If the needle isn’t large enough to make a hole of sufficient size, the abrasion can cause the thread to shred as it passes through the fabric. Always match the size and type of needle to the fabric.

Another cause of shredding can be a burr on the needle. If you’ve sewn over pins (Like, who would do that?), they could have slightly nicked the needle and that rough area can catch on the thread as it forms the stitches. Poor quality thread can also be an issue, so always purchase good quality thread—it’s worth the investment.

~Linda Griepentrog
Linda is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and two dogs, Yohnuh and Abby. Contact her at .

Fusibles

Fusible interfacings are de rigueur for today’s tailoring aficionados. They are easy to apply and a great option for building structure and shape into a tailored garment without laborious hand stitching.

Types of Fusibles

Wovens have lengthwise and crosswise threads that make them stable in both directions. If they’re cut on the bias, they offer some stretch and draping, like on a jacket roll line or lapel. Hair canvas, a type of woven interfacing, is often used in tailored garments to build shape.
Knits offer built-in stretch for shaping and draping, and can also be used to back an entire garment section to add body to fabrics like loosely woven bouclés or lightweight wool flannels.
Non-wovens are crisp and paper-like, and generally aren’t used in tailoring projects since they offer no draping or molding attributes. They’re better saved for craft projects.

Note that each type of interfacing is available in several weights, from light to heavy, and should be chosen to match the weight of the garment fabric.

More than one type of interfacing is often used in a single tailored garment. For example, a lightweight knit might be used to back a jacket front and back, while fusible hair canvas is applied over it in the upper shoulder and lapel areas. A heavier weight bias-cut woven may be used in a collar stand area, over hair canvas applied directly to the entire collar. The choices depend on the end result you’re looking for—soft and drapable to firm and supported. Always test before you fuse!

Preshrinking

Preshrink all interfacings, as later shrinkage can ruin your garment. Simply fold the interfacing and submerge it in warm water for 30 minutes, then hang or lie flat to dry. Do not press fusible interfacing.

Cutting

Your pattern guide should tell you where to use interfacing and may have separate pattern pieces for cutting it. Common places to add stability are the garment back to support the shoulder, armscye and neck areas; on facings (behind buttonholes) and lapels, in sleeve hems, sleeve caps, and on collars, cuffs and pockets. Depending on the interfacing weight, you may want to trim it out of the seam allowances and/or darts to help reduce bulk.

Fusing

One side of fusible interfacing has adhesive dots on it, and the opposite side does not. It’s important that you place the interfacing with the adhesive side against the fabric wrong side. Once fused, the interfacing and fabric behave as one entity as far as drape, handling and sewability are concerned.

Different types/brands of interfacings require different fusing techniques, so be sure to read the label. Some require steam, others dry heat, while still others specify a damp press cloth. Note the fusing time and iron temperature for proper adherence.

To begin fusing, choose a flat pressing surface and smooth the interfacing onto the companion fabric piece wrong side. Be sure to press, not iron the pieces in place: Pressing is a lifting motion, while ironing is sliding the iron along the surface. To fuse properly, hold the iron in one place for the specified amount of time, then lift it and move to the next area, overlapping the first section slightly. Repeat to cover the entire garment area for complete fusing.

Always allow the fused garment sections to cool before moving them from the pressing surface. If you move them while warm, it can affect adhesion and cause distortion.

For smaller garment pieces, like collars and cuffs, it’s easier to fuse an entire fabric section and then cut out the pieces than it is to try and match up small cut pieces of interfacing with pre-cut garment sections.

Once all the interfacing pieces are fused to their matching garment sections, transfer the pattern markings to the interfacing layer and move forward with construction.

Sewing Q&A