ASG Sewing Blog

June 19, 2026

Lace Without Limits

If you’ve got an embroidery machine, chances are good that you’ve played around with it for hours embellishing every towel, denim shirt and potholder in the house. But, maybe you haven’t tried making lace yet. Let’s take a look at the process. Note that we’re talking about freestanding lace with no fabric underneath it.

This is the kind of motif you might use for a collar, cuffs, pocket toppers, etc. or a whole host of dimensionally shaped items like ornaments, bookmarks, jewelry, etc. This type of lace can be open and airy looking, or it can be more dense with a crocheted look, but the key word you need to look for in choosing the design is “freestanding.” There are other lace designs that are digitized to be stitched onto base fabric, but freestanding lace supports itself without fabric underneath.

Under it all

Freestanding lace is sewn on a removable stabilizer and it needs to be heavy enough to support the complexity of the stitches without tearing during the process. A removable stabilizer is key to the stability of the finished design and to giving it an open, airy look.

Water-soluble stabilizer works well for this process—whether the clear film version or the type that looks more like non-woven interfacing. These types remove cleanly from the stitches. Tear-away versions tend to leave a raggedy edge, unbecoming of any lace project.

Before you settle on a stabilizer, be sure to test-stitch the design to test for the stitch quality and tension and make any adjustments before beginning the real stitch-out process.

The right stuff

Embroidery thread for lace making affects the finished look, so note the digitizer’s instructions when choosing. For a bit of sheen, rayon works well; for a matte finish, cotton is ideal. If you want a bit of sparkle, check out metallics.

From Emblibrary: Fancy Fall Sunflower Drawstring Bag

Because the lace is openwork, match the bobbin thread to the top thread, at the very least in color, but it can be a lighter weight if you’re using a heavier top thread.

Even though traditional laces are usually white or off-white, when you create the lace yourself, you can make it any color you want. That’s the benefit of DIY.

A new small, sharp or embroidery needle is a must—look for size 75/11 if you’re using 40-weight thread.

Choose the smallest hoop that your lace motif will fit in. Because of the high stitch count, it’s imperative that there’s no slippage during stitching or the stitches will be misaligned. If there is any issue during your test-stitching, try taping the stabilizer into the hoop around the edges for a firmer hold.

Having small, sharp pointed scissors is helpful for trimming threads and any jump stitches. If they have curved blades, it’s even easier to get a close cut.

Stitching sagas

Hold the threads as your lace begins stitching, then stop and trim the ends so they don’t get caught up in the design. Because of the large number of stitches in freestanding lace designs, they take a long time to stitch out, so grab a cup of coffee for the show. You’ll see base stitches first, top stitches, and outline stitches play out. If the lace is a three-dimensional project, there may also be loops or buttonhole-like openings where sections are joined together.

At the end

Once the design is completely stitched out, trim around the motif about ½” outside the outline stitches. Follow the stabilizer manufacturer’s instructions for removal, paying attention to the water temperature and soaking duration guidelines. You may need to repeatedly soak and rinse to remove all the stabilizer.

If your project is dimensional, you may want to leave some stabilizer in the stitching to create a slight stiffness so the project stands up or hangs well. If you’re putting the lace on a garment or using it on a home décor project, rinse thoroughly for a softer feel.

Attachments

To attach freestanding lace to a garment, simply sew along the outline stitches either by hand or machine. If desired and considering the location, you can carefully trim away the garment fabric under the lace design for a see-through look.

~Linda Griepentrog is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and three dogs, Yohnuh, Abby, and Lizzie. Contact her at gwizdesigns@aol.com.

June 12, 2026

Sewing for Good: A Legacy of Service, Stitch by Stitch

For most ASG members, charitable sewing is nothing new. Long before “giving back” became a popular phrase, sewists were quietly using their skills to help neighbors, support communities, and provide comfort to those in need. Across decades of service, ASG members have sewn quilts, clothing, blankets, tote bags, walker caddies, adaptive garments, and countless other items that have touched lives in ways both large and small.

While the finished projects are often the focus, the true story of charitable sewing is about something much deeper. It is about connection. It is about purpose. And it is about the unique ability of sewing to transform fabric and thread into an expression of care.

Charitable sewing gives purpose to my creativity and reminds me that even small acts can make a difference.”

The Gift of Time and Talent

In today’s fast-paced world, time may be our most valuable resource. Every charitable project represents hours spent selecting fabrics, cutting pieces, pressing seams, troubleshooting challenges, and adding thoughtful finishing touches. Those hours are a gift.

Unlike a purchased item, a handmade donation carries something personal from its maker. Whether it is a quilt for a child entering foster care, a pillowcase for a hospitalized patient, or a memory bear created from a loved one’s clothing, each project reflects the care and attention of the person who made it.

ASG members understand this better than most. Experienced sewists know that every stitch requires intention. When those stitches are made for someone else, the project becomes more than an object—it becomes an act of kindness.

I may never meet the person who receives my quilt, but I hope they feel the love stitched into every seam.”

A Tradition That Continues to Inspire

One of the most remarkable aspects of charitable sewing is its ability to bring generations together. Many sewists learned not only sewing skills from parents, grandparents, and mentors, but also the belief that those skills should be used to help others.

Today, ASG members continue that tradition. Chapter service projects introduce newer sewists to the satisfaction of creating for a cause. Longtime members share techniques, encourage beginners, and demonstrate that sewing can be both a creative outlet and a powerful form of community service. In this way, charitable sewing becomes part of a larger legacy. The knowledge is passed along, but so are the values of generosity, compassion, and service.

The Benefits Flow Both Ways

It is easy to focus on the recipients of charitable sewing projects, but the benefits extend to the makers as well. Many describe a deep sense of fulfillment when working on projects intended for others. There is satisfaction in knowing that a skill developed over years of practice can bring comfort to someone facing a difficult circumstance.

Some projects provide a tangible connection to a recipient. A cancer patient receives a quilt. A child receives a handmade backpack. A veteran receives a patriotic lap blanket. Even when the recipient remains anonymous, sewists often feel a meaningful connection to the person who will ultimately use the item. That sense of purpose can be especially rewarding. Studies have shown that volunteering and helping others can contribute to increased happiness, reduced stress, and a greater sense of well-being. Sewers often experience these benefits firsthand. Time spent creating for others combines the calming, meditative qualities of sewing with the emotional rewards of generosity. The result is a unique form of fulfillment that extends beyond the sewing room.

Building Friendships Along the Way

For many ASG members, charitable sewing has also strengthened friendships and built lasting connections. Service projects often bring members together around a common goal. Fabric is shared. Techniques are exchanged. Stories are told. Laughter fills the room while hands remain busy. These gatherings remind us that sewing has always been about more than the finished project. It is also about community.

Many lifelong friendships have begun around cutting tables, sewing machines, and chapter service events. Working together toward a meaningful purpose creates bonds that extend far beyond the project itself. In a world where genuine connection can sometimes feel increasingly rare, charitable sewing continues to provide opportunities for fellowship, encouragement, and shared accomplishment.

I’ve made lifelong friends through ASG service projects. We come together to help others, but we receive so much in return.”

Every Stitch Leaves a Mark

The true impact of charitable sewing is often impossible to measure. We may never know how a quilt comforted a frightened child, how an adaptive garment restored someone’s independence, or how a handmade gift brightened a difficult day. Yet those impacts are real.

For decades, ASG members have quietly improved lives through their generosity and skill. Their work demonstrates that sewing is more than a hobby. It is a means of serving others, strengthening communities, and creating meaningful connections. As new generations discover the joy of sewing, they also inherit this tradition of giving. The projects may change, and the needs may evolve, but the spirit remains the same.

One stitch. One project. One act of kindness at a time.

And that is a legacy worth celebrating!

~American Sewing Guild

June 5, 2026

Staystitching

Staystitching is a term we don’t often hear in the world of fast fashion sewing, but its importance can’t be overrated. And it’s essential for quality construction.

What is it?

Staystitching is a row of regular length or slightly shorter (2mm) straight stitches done just within a seamline help stabilize the area. On conventional 5/8” seams, staystitching is done ½” from the cut edge. It’s done on woven fabrics, not usually on knits. Matching thread should be used for all staystitching.

Typically, it’s done on curved areas like necklines, armholes, shoulder seams, curved pockets and curved waistlines, but it can also be used in other places on unstable fabrics. These areas generally have some bias grain to them and the fabric can easily distort.

Staystitching can also be done on straight seams when they’re on a loosely woven or stretchy fabric that can stretch out of shape during handling. It’s a permanent line of stitching that stays in for the life of the garment, so no need to remove it after construction.

When to staystitch

Staystitching is done on individual (single layer) pieces of the garment immediately after cutting them out. It’s important to staystitch before the pattern pieces are handled a lot, in order to keep them in shape. Do it on the main garment pieces and also on facings and collars. Linings can also be staystitched in the same areas as the outer garment. No backstitching is needed for staystitch rows.

Direction matters

The direction you stitch definitely matters. The general rule is to sew from wide to narrow. For bodices, stitching is done from shoulder to underarm for armholes, shoulder to center for round necklines and shoulder to armhole along shoulder seams. For V-necks, sew from the high point to low point. Neckline facings, again shoulder to center. It’s important not to try to sew continuously from one shoulder neckline edge to the other—instead, break the stitching at the center front/back and begin stitching again at the opposite shoulder. Any seams that are cut on grain, or close to it do not require staystitching. For skirts, stitching is done from hipline to waistline along the side seams.

As you staystitch it’s important not to distort the fabric edges—just let them feed gently into the machine without any pushing or pulling, as that can lead to stretching out of shape.

After stitching

On loosely woven fabrics, it’s a good idea to lay the staystitched pattern piece over the paper pattern to be sure they match. If the fabric piece has distorted, use a pin to gently pull on the stitches in the affected area and ease it back into shape. If the staystitching pulled up the pattern piece, clip every 4 stitches to release the tension and get it back in shape.

Staystitching can also be used as a guide during construction. For example, on a curved neckline use the staystitching as a guide so you don’t clip into the seam allowances too close to the actual construction stitching.

One word or two? You may see this term as stay stitching or staystitching, depending on the reference. Doesn’t matter…it’s the same function.

Knit Wits

While it’s generally not necessary to staystitch knits, you may find it helpful in some instances like these:

Use on necklines to keep them from gaping and stretching out.
If the fabric is very loosely constructed and/or very stretchy.
If you’re not going to be sewing the project up in the near future or you’re traveling with it.
If your project has uniquely shaped pieces that can stretch out of shape—like wrapped fronts.

May 29, 2026

Sew Cool: The Best Summer Garments and Fabrics for Beating the Heat

When temperatures climb and humidity settles in, sewing enthusiasts are able to create garments specifically designed for comfort. Store-bought summer clothing often prioritizes trends over practicality, leaving wearers stuck in clingy synthetics or stiff fabrics that trap heat. Sewing your own warm-weather wardrobe allows you to choose breathable fabrics, relaxed silhouettes, and thoughtful details that help you stay cool while still looking stylish.

From breezy linen dresses to feather-light cotton tops, the right combination of fabric and garment design can make all the difference during the hottest months of the year.

Why Fabric Matters in Summer

The secret to comfortable summer clothing begins with fiber content. Natural fibers tend to outperform synthetics in hot weather because they breathe better and allow moisture to evaporate more easily. Fabric weave and weight also play an important role. Lightweight, loosely woven fabrics encourage airflow and prevent clothing from sticking to the skin.

Best Summer Fabrics

Linen

Linen is often considered the gold standard for summer sewing. Made from flax fibers, it is exceptionally breathable, moisture-wicking, and cool against the skin. Linen garments also develop a relaxed softness over time that many sewists adore.

One of linen’s greatest strengths is its ability to dry quickly, making it ideal for humid climates. Yes, it wrinkles easily, but many sewists embrace those wrinkles as part of linen’s effortless charm.

While traditional linen is made entirely from the fibers of the flax plant, Essex linen is a popular fabric line created by Robert Kaufman that blends 55% linen and 45% cotton. The addition of cotton makes Essex linen different from standard 100% linen:

Wrinkle Resistance: The cotton blend helps reduce the heavy wrinkling characteristic of traditional linen.
Texture & Feel: It retains the rustic look and subtle texture of linen but has a softer hand-feel thanks to the cotton.
Handling: Pure linen can be stiff, sheer, and prone to severe wrinkling. Essex linen is more flexible, slightly thicker, and drapes beautifully.

Cotton Lawn and Voile

For lightweight blouses, sundresses, and flowing skirts, cotton lawn and cotton voile are summer favorites. These fabrics feel airy and soft while remaining easy to sew.

Cotton lawn has a smooth, slightly crisp finish, while voile is softer and more sheer. Both fabrics are excellent for layered garments that still feel cool and comfortable.

Feature	Cotton Lawn	Cotton Voile
Texture	Crisp, smooth, and slightly lustrous.	Soft, silky, and airy.
Weave / Weight	Tightly woven, slightly heavier than voile.	Looser, open weave, extremely thin and lightweight.
Opacity	Mostly opaque; rarely requires a lining.	Highly sheer; often requires a slip or lining for garments.

Read this article from Threads Magazine on How to Sew Finely Woven Batiste, Lawn, and Voile

Double Gauze

Double gauze has become increasingly popular among garment sewists because of its cloud-like softness and breathability. This lightly crinkled cotton fabric traps tiny pockets of air between its layers, helping regulate temperature naturally.

It works beautifully for relaxed tops, casual dresses, beach cover-ups, and loose-fitting shorts. Double gauze garments often feel like wearing pajamas in the best possible way.

Double gauze from StoneMountain & Daughter Fabrics

Rayon and Viscose

While technically semi-synthetic, rayon and viscose are derived from plant fibers and are beloved for their drape and cool touch. These fabrics flow beautifully and work especially well for loose summer garments with movement.

Rayon challis is especially popular for wide-leg pants, wrap dresses, and breezy tops. The downside is that rayon can be slippery to sew and may wrinkle easily, but many sewists find the comfort worth the extra effort.

The Best Garments for Hot Weather

Choosing the right garment style matters just as much as selecting the right fabric. Loose silhouettes allow air circulation, while fitted garments can trap heat and moisture against the body.

Linen Pants and Wide-Leg Trousers

Many people swear by loose linen pants for summer comfort. Wide-leg styles allow airflow while still protecting skin from direct sun exposure. Elastic waistbands, cropped lengths, and pull-on styles add practicality and ease.

Pairing lightweight linen pants with a simple tank or sleeveless blouse creates an outfit that feels polished without overheating.

Shift Dresses and Sundresses

Simple summer dresses are sewing staples because they require minimal layering and offer maximum airflow. A-line dresses, tiered sundresses, and loose shift silhouettes work especially well in extreme heat.

Look for designs with:

Sleeveless or cap sleeve construction
Loose waists
Open necklines
Minimal lining
Breathable facings instead of heavy interfacing

Garments that skim rather than cling to the body often feel dramatically cooler during summer months.

And don’t miss an opportunity to add some pizazz. Soft, embroidered touches add elegance to linen.

Camp Shirts and Oversized Button-Ups

Relaxed woven tops are another warm-weather essential. Camp shirts made from linen, cotton lawn, or rayon can be worn open over tanks or buttoned on their own.

Oversized silhouettes not only feel cooler but also create that relaxed summer aesthetic many sewists love.

Easy Pull-On Shorts

Loose-fitting shorts with elastic waistbands are practical, comfortable, and quick to sew. Linen blends, cotton chambray, and lightweight twill all work well for casual summer bottoms.

Many sewists also love pajama-inspired sets with coordinating shorts and tops because they feel elevated while remaining incredibly comfortable.

Construction Tips for Summer Sewing

Summer garments benefit from thoughtful construction techniques that reduce bulk and increase breathability.

French seams, bias-bound edges, and lightweight facings can help garments feel softer and less heavy against the skin. Many sewists also skip unnecessary linings or substitute partial linings to avoid extra layers.

Choosing lighter-colored fabrics can also make a surprising difference. Pale shades reflect sunlight better than dark colors, helping garments feel cooler outdoors.

Another smart detail is ease. Summer clothing should have slightly more wearing ease than fitted winter garments. Extra room improves airflow and allows fabric to move away from the skin rather than cling to it.

Sewing a Wardrobe You’ll Actually Wear

One of the joys of summer sewing is that warm-weather garments are often beginner-friendly. Loose silhouettes, simple construction, and forgiving fits make summer projects approachable and satisfying.

More importantly, handmade summer clothing can be customized for genuine comfort. Sewists can adjust sleeve length, neckline depth, inseam measurements, and fabric choices to suit their climate and lifestyle perfectly.

The result is a wardrobe filled with garments that feel as good as they look — pieces designed not just for style, but for surviving scorching afternoons, humid evenings, and everything summer brings.

~American Sewing Guild

May 22, 2026

Blanket Stitch

Originally used as an edge finish on heavy wool blankets (hence the name), this aptly named stitch is much more versatile. It can be used for many decorative applications and stitches out quickly and evenly, mimicking hand stitches with the same moniker.

A blanket stitch can be recognized by its two distinct directions—a vertical stitch and a
‘bite” stitch perpendicular to the vertical stitch, forming a distinct right angle. The bite stitch is actually two stitches—one to the left and one to the right to return the needle to the vertical stitch positioning.

The stitch is adjustable in both length (the space between the bites) and width (the reach of the bite to the left). You can have wide bites close together, narrow bites further apart or any combination of the two. If your machine has any kind of software adjustments, you can even change individual stitches (length, width and stitch angle) for a more eclectic hand-stitched look.

While used most frequently for appliqué (both raw edge and turned), the blanket stitch can also be used as an edge finish on both single- and double-layer edges. It can also be used to accent seams, pockets and hems, and to apply trims such as ribbon, binding and bias tape.

Machine Set-up

It’s important to select an open-toe foot when using the blanket stitch, as visibility is critical for precise placement. If you’re machine has one, choose an open-toe foot that can also use the dual-feed function for even feeding.

Part of the fun of the blanket stitch is that the look can vary greatly, depending on the type of thread you choose. You can use it with monofilament for an invisible appearance, regular sewing weight thread, or with any number of decorative threads, including wool for a hand-stitched look.

The type of thread you choose and your fabric type will determine the kind and size of the needle needed for perfect stitching. It’s important that the needle eye is large enough not to shred the thread since it’s entering and exiting the same needle hole during the stitch formation.

Blanket Stitch Tips

If your project has corners, curves or points, use the needle-down function if you have it to keep the stitch from shifting as you pivot around the shape.
Setting the machine needle position to the right or left also helps with visibility and allows the presser foot edge to be used as a guide for stitching.
If your machine has mirror-imaging functions, it’s possible to reset the bite portion to form in the opposite direction, depending on your comfort level with the stitch.
Your project may require a stabilizer underneath to avoid puckering if the fabric is lightweight.
Always stitch a test sample to adjust the stitch settings before beginning the project.

Appliqué

The easiest way to appliqué with a blanket stitch is to secure the appliqué shape in place first using fusible web. That prevents any shifting during the edge-stitching process. Fuse the entire shape or just the edges, or optionally, use a light touch of fabric glue under the edges.

Using the blanket stitch for appliqué creates a neat finish to either a raw or turned edge. The vertical portion of the stitch can rest along the appliqué edge or actually be on it, depending on the desired finished look. Most commonly, it trails along the edge with the bite piercing the appliqué fabric.

At the corner of an appliqué, stop on the vertical stitch side of the stitch with the needle down in the fabric. Lift the presser foot and pivot at the angle needed for the corner. If it’s a right angle, you can then begin stitching again on the adjacent side. If it’s not a right angle or you prefer a diagonal cornering stitch, then pivot accordingly.

When appliquéing curves, you may need to pivot repeatedly around the curve edges to avoid stitches at odd angles if you try to stitch continuously. Each time, simply leave the needle tip in the fabric and pivot slightly to keep the stitches aligned.

Added Pizazz

Because the blanket stitch bite is a single stitch in each direction, it can also be used as a channel to add other fiber embellishments after stitching, like yarn or beads, and they’re securely held in place.

Add other embellishments under the blanket stitch

All images compliments of Bernina


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