ASG Sewing Blog

January 16, 2026

Sewing a Polartec Fleece Jacket: Quality Counts

When the cold settles in and the forecast starts sounding like a dare, fleece suddenly becomes less of a fabric choice and more of a survival strategy. Soft, warm, and forgiving, it’s the go-to material for garments that actually get worn all season long—from cozy pullovers and joggers to layering pieces that trap heat without weighing you down. This is the time of year when making something warm isn’t just satisfying—it’s essential, and a quality-made fleece garment delivers both comfort and practicality. In addition, when made with an attention to the type of quality that I sew into all of my garments, it will stand the test of time

The Fabric

There are many different types of fleece available, but not all are created equal. Some are far more resilient than others, which is why my go-to choice is Polartec. When selecting fleece for garment construction, durability should be at the top of your list.

One of the first things to consider is pilling. Lower-quality or imitation fleeces often pill quickly with wear, frequent laundering, or friction—dramatically diminishing the appearance of an otherwise well-made garment. While pilling can be removed with specialized tools, doing so ultimately degrades the fibers. Choosing a superior fleece from the start ensures your garment maintains its appearance and longevity.

Part 1

Polartec is a standout in this category and is available through sources such as New Hampshire Mills Direct Textiles (larger quantities or cut yardage). Polartec fleeces come in a wide range of types and weights.

The Polartec 100 series weighs approximately 9.5 ounces per linear yard.
The 200 series about 12.5 ounces
The 300 series is roughly 16 ounces per linear yard.
As the numbers increase, so does the fabric’s ability to block cold air.
High loft fleeces have a fur type look to them and are soft and very warm.
Power stretch fleeces are ideal for zip-front jackets and layering garments, featuring a smooth, knit-like face and a soft fleece interior. These fabrics provide warmth without bulk and offer excellent stretch, making them well suited for garments such as tights, base layers, and tops for cold-weather activities like skiing, snowshoeing, or just winter walking.
Some Polartec fabrics feature a hard face with a soft interior, while others include weather-resistant exteriors or grid-patterned pile designed to trap warm air close to the body. One of the advantages of Polartec is the ability to combine multiple fleece types within a single garment to balance warmth, flexibility, and performance.

I use Polartec fleece fabrics for a variety of garments such as pants, jackets, sweatshirt-style tops, three-quarter zip pullover shirts, hats, mittens, scarves, ear warmers and more. Maintaining warmth while preserving full mobility is key—not only for active wearers but also for those who typically dislike cold weather. The right fleece garments can make outdoor activities far more enjoyable.

You can make your fleece jackets out of Polartec and pair them with other fabrics to reduce bulk or add function. For example, when adding pockets, making them completely from fleece, while adding bulk, will also add warmth. But you can also make one side of the pocket out of a polyester or mesh-type lining, Coolmax, or nylon. In fact, the use of nylon was very popular in a major brand of fleece jackets years ago.

Stitching Considerations

You can use a variety of stitch types to sew your garments, especially since Polartec fleece is well suited to both home and industrial sergers. A four-thread overlock stitch with a ¼-inch seam allowance provides excellent strength and allows garments to sit closer to the body, enhancing warmth. For garments that will experience heavy wear and frequent laundering, reinforcing overlocked seams with a straight stitch placed 3/8 to 1/2″ away can add durability, though this increases seam allowance and bulk. Note that you may have to alter your patterns to work with overall larger seam allowance.

Garment type should guide stitch choice. Close-fitting garments such as leggings make from Polartec will benefit from overlocked seams only which minimizes bulk and preventing chafing while maintaining stretch and warmth. Polartec leggings will virtually make the cold disappear, even when out on a crisp walk with Fido.

Jackets and pullovers, on the other hand, often benefit from a combination of different stitches. Overlocked and straight-stitched seams give added structure and insulation but make for a larger seam allowance. Cover stitching —while an added step—can further flatten seams and prevent them from rubbing against the body and add decorative detail, especially along princess seams—one of my favorite design features in activewear.

Bar tacks are particularly useful on fleece garments and are easy to apply. I use them frequently at stress points such as zipper ends and other areas that take added stress. A narrow zigzag stitch with a shortened stitch length and shortened stitch width creates a durable, satin-like bar tack. For example, I will use a 1.5mm width, and 0.5 mm length to achieve that look.

Cover stitching also works beautifully for hemming fleece. You can use no top cover for a double or triple line of stitching by choosing to use the double or triple needle option. Alternatively, you can include top cover to either of these options for a decorative effect or to flatten an overlocked seam where there is a risk for chafing on the body. For example, use a two-needle cover stitch to flatten the overlocked seam in Polartec pants with a gusset. (note that manufacturers often use a flatlock stitch here). This is a seam where the machine butts the two edges of the fabric and has top and bottom cover with typically 4 rows of straight stitch. This completely eliminates bulk and adds strength. While industrial flatlock machines are commonly used in the industry to eliminate seam bulk entirely, similar effects can be achieved at home by combining overlock and cover stitching. Though it adds an extra step, it’s a worthwhile technique for achieving professional results.

Thread Choices

When using an overlock machine of the home or industrial variety, it’s a good idea to use woolly nylon—also known as texturized polyester—in the lower looper; however, it can also be used in the upper looper as well. Wooly nylon has a fluffy texture but will tighten when pulled so that it looks like most other threads. It produces soft, flexible seams with excellent stretch, making it a staple in swimwear, dancewear, and fleece garments alike. It has great stretch and comes in lots of colors which provides an opportunity to use it in the top cover stitch of your cover stitch machine for a decorative effect or to create detail. You can use poly cotton in the needles of the overlock stitch, the needle of your lockstitch machine, and the bobbin.

Watch this space for Part 2 in the next issue

~Kim Larcom, ASG Member (Boston Chapter), known as The Bridgewater Seamstress, is the Entrepreneur behind Astrosportswear Activewear. She graduated from the Master Seamstress certificate program at the University of Rhode Island and owns her own custom activewear business.

January 9, 2026

Chinese Knot Button

There’s nothing quite as elegant as a knotted button and loop closure. This traditional Chinese knot has been used for centuries, and you can custom make them to coordinate with special garments. In addition to being used as a functional closure, these interwoven balls of cord can be used for necklaces, earrings and other types of embellishment as well.

Getting started

To get started, choose a ready-made cord about ¼” diameter. Satin cord works well, as does woven rayon or metallic. Note that if the cord has a filler (light padding), it makes a more attractive ball. Velvet cord can also be used to create slightly larger balls. You’ll need 12”-18” per button, depending on the thickness.

If you’re using the ball button for a home décor use, you can use cable cord or a larger tubular cord to make a much bigger button than you would for a garment closure. You can also use rope for a nautical look. Chinese knot buttons are great for incorporating into drapery tie-backs or as elegant slipcover closures.

Another option is to make your own fabric tubing. To do this, cut a length of bias fabric (silk is ideal) 1 ½” wide. Fold the cord in half right sides together—matching raw edges—and add a narrow strip of lightweight batting under the folded fabric. Stitch along the cord length using a ¼” seam, catching the batting in the stitching. Use your favorite turning tool to turn the stuffed cord right side out and then smooth into shape.

In addition to the cord or tubing, you’ll need matching thread, scissors, a hand needle and a fray stopper or fabric glue for finishing the cord ends.

Ready, set, weave

Begin by folding the cord into a loop with one end OVER the opposite end.

2. Make a second loop behind the first one forming a pretzel shape.

3. Weave the second end of the cord over and under each cord in the pretzel pattern to create a sustainable knot shape. Note that it’s the over/under intertwining pattern that holds the cords together.

4. To shape the knot, gently coax each loop and pull to snug them together. If you pull too fast, the shape of the ball will be wonky.

5. Pull up to get the ball shape or leave looser for a flatter button.

Finishing

Once you have the button in a pleasing shape, trim the ends of the cording about ¾” from the knot. If the cord or fabric tube ends are ravelly, add a bit of fray preventer or fabric glue to secure them.

Sew the cord ends together and tuck them into the knot underside to secure. Leave the threaded needle attached to sew the button to the project.

Wrap the thread around the thread shank you created in that process to make an attractive finish for the button application.

Use ball buttons with loops on the opposite side of the closure, as they’re too bulky for a traditional buttonhole.

~Linda Griepentrog is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and three dogs, Yohnuh, Abby, and Lizzie. Contact her at gwizdesigns@aol.com.

December 12, 2025

How to Make Denim Look Stone- or Acid-Washed

Acid-washed and stone-washed denim are stepping boldly back into the spotlight for 2025–2026, blending nostalgic edge with modern refinement. Designers are leaning into these retro textures to add depth, character, and a lived-in authenticity to jackets, jeans, skirts, and even accessories. This time around, the washes are more intentional—think controlled contrasts, sustainable finishing techniques, and elevated silhouettes that make distressed denim feel fresh rather than throwback. Whether paired with minimalist basics or layered into maximalist looks, acid and stone washes are proving they can move seamlessly from vintage-inspired streetwear to polished, contemporary style.

Stone-washing and acid-washing are two classic ways to give denim that lived-in, high-contrast look. Stone-washed denim is softened and faded by abrasion; acid (bleach) washing uses a controlled bleaching action to create splotchy, cloud-like highlights. We cover some beginner-friendly home methods, safety notes, and a few deeper resources and videos to watch before you start.

Start by pre-washing your denim fabric to remove finishes.

What you’ll need (basic)

Your denim fabric (100% cotton denim reacts best).
Household bleach (for acid/bleach wash) OR pumice/polishing stones (for stone wash).
Large plastic tub or old bucket, spray bottle or squeeze bottle, rubber gloves, eye protection, and an apron or old clothes.
Neutralizer: hydrogen peroxide or a long rinse and diluted vinegar solution. Always have plenty of water for rinsing.

Acid / bleach (aka “cloud” or acid-wash) — quick method

Work outside or in a very well-ventilated area. Put on gloves and eye protection. Never mix bleach with ammonia or other cleaners.
Dilute bleach with water. A common starting ratio is 1:1 to 1:3 bleach to water in a spray bottle. For gentler results, use more water. Test on a small end area first.
For a clouded look: scrunch and secure parts of the denim with rubber bands or twist the garment to create areas that resist the bleach. Spray or dab bleach onto raised areas — the more you spray, the lighter the area. For sharper, high-contrast speckles, sprinkle bleach with a sponge or pour small amounts.
Watch the color change (this can take from a minute to 20 minutes). When you reach the desired lightness, neutralize the bleach (rinse thoroughly, then soak in a hydrogen peroxide solution or wash with plenty of water) or neutralize with baking soda solution to stop the chemical action. Launder and dry the fabric afterwards.
View this article from Clorox on How to Fade Jeans with Bleach

Tips for control & creativity

If you’d like to do specific patterns, use gel bleach or thickened bleach. This will give you more control on jackets and targeted areas; apply with a brush and avoid running. See the step-by-step for a controlled jacket technique offered by Levi’s
For patterned effects use stencils, rubber bands (reverse tie-dye), or spray bottles to vary coverage. Many tutorial videos demonstrate spraying and banding methods for “cloud” or “acid” textures.
For random, blotchy effects, you can also soak pumice stones in a bleach solution and tumble briefly with the garment (factory acid wash used a similar concept).

Safety & fabric care

Bleach is corrosive — use gloves, respirator or mask if sensitivity is an issue, and always wear eye protection. Work outdoors or with strong ventilation. Do not mix bleach with other cleaners (especially ammonia). Neutralize and rinse thoroughly before machine drying.
Expect some weakening of fibers: both bleach and stone abrasion can reduce fabric tensile strength. Consider reinforcing high-stress areas (crotch, seams) if you plan to wear the piece heavily.
If you prefer to avoid bleach, try enzyme washes or commercial fading agents designed for home use — they’re gentler on fibers and colors.

Stone-washing (abrasion)

Stone washing uses physical abrasion to rub the indigo dye off the surface of denim, softening the fabric and producing a uniform faded or worn look that has some vintage appeal.

Stone-washing at home mimics industrial processes by rubbing stones or pumice against the fabric.
Use commercial pumice or ceramic stones (available online) and a large, sturdy tub or old washing machine set to a gentle cycle. Important note: Do not use your good washing machine for this!
For pumice, soak the denim in salt water overnight, then wring out the excess water. Spread the fabric on a flat surface, smoothing out all the wrinkles, then rub with the pumice stone or sandpaper until areas of white fabric appear. Make sure you don’t rub too long in one spot that you cause a hole. Fill a bucket halfway with water, then add a cup of salt and properly dissolve it.
For true stone washing, set your (old) washing machine water level to low and the water temperature to hot and add 1/4 – 1/2 cup of detergent, then add 3 cups of non-chlorine bleach. If your denim is 100% cotton, you can use 1 1/2 cups of chlorine bleach. Add stones and allow the machine to agitate for a few minutes before adding the fabric. When the wash cycle is complete, remove the fabric.
This process is abrasive — it will thin the fabric over time, so don’t overdo it. Repeat until you reach the desired fade. Do a final rinse and then tumble dry.

With experimentation and attention to safety, you can create beautiful stone- or acid-washed effects that refresh thrifted denim or breathe new life into a jacket. Try small tests first, vary spray concentration and tumble times, and keep notes — that way you’ll quickly learn what produces the exact fade and pattern you love. Happy distressing (safely)!

Need more denim info? Try this articles.

Denim Dynamics

Hemming Jeans – the Denim Blues

December 5, 2025

Dog-Friendly Sewing Tips for Every Pet Parent

Few things are as delightful as sewing for our pets. They happily overlook crooked seams and quirky fabric choices—because to them, handmade means love. As someone who has three big dogs, I can tell you that there are myriad opportunities to create things. Our Newfoundland, Yohnuh, will love anything and everything. Abby, our border collie, is more selective about her things, and Lizzie, the “Heinz 57” mix, will simply start to rip apart anything and everything she gets.

Make it Right

It goes almost without saying that anything made for a pet should be made from a sturdy fabric, especially for younger pets who seem intensely curious about everything. Denim, canvas, duck cloth and nylon ripstop are top-of-mind choices.

Fabrics should also be soft if you’re making bedding or clothing, and have a snuggle factor. Fleece is a common choice, but there’s also sherpa, wool, and Minkie-like options.

It’s also obvious that any fabrics (and stuffings) should be totally washable and dryable. Drool (we’re talking you Newfie!) and just general use by pets lead to the need for frequent cleanings. If the fabric is waterproof or water resistant (think ripstop, oilcloth, or laminates), a simple wipe-down can take the place of full-on laundering.

Who doesn’t love looking at pet themed fabrics, whether in-store or online? There’s a multitude to choose from.

If you’re making a costume, perhaps you want to think more broadly about fabric options. Satin, tulle, velvet, etc. may be needed to pull off the look. But, these items aren’t for general use, so care isn’t necessarily as important as those getting everyday use.

Think safety when you’re selecting pet findings—no beads that can be swallowed, no fasteners that can be chewed off, etc. Any trims should be sewn on sturdily by machine.

If you’re making a coat, leash or collar, consider adding reflective trim if the item will be worn out at night. These trims glow in the light of headlines for added visibility.

When making a stuffed item, be sure to double stitch the opening closed to avoid pet intrusion.

Pet Projects

There are myriad types of pet projects, and you can find many free patterns online simply by searching “free pet projects to sew”. Many of these are ideal for beginners to make, as pets don’t care if seams are perfectly straight. The major pattern companies also have pet offerings.

If you’re thinking of a pet bed, be sure to measure your pet when they’re lying down to see how big the bed needs to be for comfort. No dog wants a bed he can only sit in. Note the pattern measurements and where the measurements were taken—nose to tail, girth, weight, etc. for a good fit. Beds are actually a great way to use up some scraps for stuffing. Just be sure all the pieces are washable.

If you’re looking for a simple beginner project, consider a pet bandanna. These scarves are ideal for using seasonal fabrics and only narrow hemming is needed, or even just a trim with some specialty scissors. Or, even simpler, snip a fringed edge. For double wear, make it reversible and no hemming needed.

Placemats are another easy option. They catch spills and crumbs and keep the area around dishes cleaner.

Interactive toys are always a winner for any pets. Whether you make a Snuffle mat and hide treats in it, or you create a squeaker tug toy, a feather string toy or a catnip filled fish, there’s fun to be had.

It’s fun to customize a pet project as well—get out your embroidery machine and add a name or saying (Woof!) to the project as you’re making it. Another way to personalize a project is to add an appliqué—just be sure the stitching is secure and no loose edges.

No matter what you make, your pet is sure to be appreciative of your efforts! Don’t have a pet of your own? Donate items to shelters for the pets housed there or to give to adoptees.

Sewn Pet Project Ideas

Bandanna
Bed
Boots
Car seat cover
Coat
Collar
Cooling mat

Costume
Couch cover
Dog poop bag holder
Hammock
Harness
Leash
Placemat

Pillow
Quilt
Snuffle mat
Tent
Treat holder bag
Tug toy
Tunnel

November 21, 2025

From Sweater to Fall Foliage on Display

Who doesn’t love a bit of fall color?

If you’ve followed my blog posts for any length of time, you know that I love repurposing things in unexpected ways, and this sweater wreath is the perfect project for that mantra.

Get started by gathering some fall-color-no-longer-worn sweaters from your closet, from friends, or visit thrift stores. Look for color gradations or stripes within the sweater so you have more tonal options from a single pick.

If the sweaters are wool, throw them in the washer and dryer to felt them, creating a denser fabric to work with.

Supplies

One 10-12” wicker wreath form
Assorted fall color sweaters
Assorted fall color felt
Assorted fall color threads
Assorted fall color felt balls, 1- 1½” diameter
Fusible web
Hot glue/glue gun
Large bow (optional)

Putting it together

Download some free leaf shapes from the Internet. One site is https://worldofprintables.com/leaf-template/. Oak and maple shapes are ideal, but any basic leaf shapes will work.
Trace the leaves onto the paper side of the fusible web and rough-cut the shapes.
Following the manufacturer’s instructions, fuse the shapes to the wrong side of the sweaters, positioning them according to your color selection and varying placement for interest.
Cut out the sweater leaves on the drawn lines.
Peel off the protective paper and fuse the leaf shapes to a contrasting felt color. Cut out the shapes ¼” from the sweater edges, leaving a narrow felt border around each leaf.
Using a straight stretch stitch or a narrow zigzag stitch, detail the leaf veining to mimic the natural leaf configuration. A narrow zigzag shows up better on bulkier fabrics.
Position the leaves as desired on the wreath form and glue in place.
Group together multiple felt balls and glue in place among the leaves.
Let the glue dry thoroughly before moving the wreath.
Add a bow if desired.

Options: Instead of all leaf shapes, cut some pumpkins, witch hats or turkey shapes to add to the mix.

Don’t throw away the sweater scraps—they’re ideal for another project—perhaps some winter mittens! The sweater ribbing is perfect to use as-is for the cuffs on mittens.