ASG Sewing Blog

November 7, 2025

A Kantha Jacket

Some years ago, I wandered onto a website selling the beautiful clothing of designer Mieko Mintz. I was fascinated by her reversible patchwork jackets and vests. These colorful garments were crafted from fabric known as kantha. I wanted a kantha jacket—I was shocked by the prices, though. $1200 for a simple cotton jacket? As usual, I thought, “I can make one myself!”

Mieko’s website describes kantha as layers of old sari fabric hand-stitched together. This craft originated in Bengal, India.

Kantha were traditionally believed to protect users from harm and could help achieve happiness and prosperity. Some of the kantha designs appeared to be randomly patched scraps of fabric, and others seemed to be made of solid saris. They often have beautiful border designs that become focal points in Mieko Mintz’s garments. Mieko uses some vintage fabrics but also creates new fabrics for her clothing designs. [1]

Author Ekta Kaul describes kantha as a form of women’s art in India. Layers of old cloth, once used by family members, provide memories of loved ones. Women made kanthas in various sizes to celebrate rites of passage or to add beauty to their homes, much like our quiltmaker friends do. Today, kantha production has evolved into an industry in India, offering financial independence to many women. [2]

During a stroll through a Houston Heights antique mall a couple of years ago, I found a stack of kantha throws. “Get one,” my husband said. Don often aids and abets my sewing addiction. We selected a throw made of colorful silk fabrics. I took it home and draped it over a bench in my living room. It looked lovely there. Occasionally, I spread it out and tried to decide how I could cut the fabrics to create a pleasing arrangement for a jacket.

A few months later, the Marcy Tilton website offered several vintage kantha throws. I fell in love with one that had a border on all four edges and a beautiful color scheme. I ordered another kantha throw.

I searched for the perfect pattern. I wanted a reversible jacket with just a few seams. One night, while scrolling through Pinterest, I stumbled upon an out-of-print pattern for a reversible jacket. Vogue 2709 is a design by Koos Van Den Akker. Ignoring the appliques and chenille overlay, the pattern was perfect for my kantha jacket! I ordered the pattern from an Etsy dealer and it arrived a few days later.

Still, I hesitated to cut into the kantha throw. Upon receiving the notice about the ASG Houston 2025 fall luncheon and learning about the speaker, Bianca Springer, who creates garments from quilts, I was inspired to start working on my jacket!

I chose the throw I had purchased from Marcy Tilton because I thought the borders would complement the front and bottom edges of my jacket nicely. I spread the kantha throw on my dining table and experimented with different pattern placements. I was pleased to discover that there would be little fabric waste, but that meant that I had to lay out my pattern carefully. I was delighted to find a remnant of dupioni silk in my stash that was the perfect color to make the bindings. The jacket came together quickly, and I finished it in time to wear to the ASG luncheon. Now I am looking for ideas to sew up my other kantha throw. Maybe a long vest?

If you are interested in sewing with kantha fabric, there are some things to consider. If you purchase a “vintage” throw, your kantha may have worn spots. The throws are made from old fabric and may have endured daily use in a home. A vintage throw may require some mending or patching.

A vintage kantha throw might be dirty. Mine had a strong smell. It also had some worn spots, and I wondered whether to wash it myself or take it to the dry cleaner. My throw was made of cotton, and I guessed it had likely been washed many times. I decided to sew the jacket first. I hand-washed a scrap and saw that the water seemed very dirty. I decided to wash it on the delicate cycle with a gentle detergent in my washing machine. Then I air-dried it. A few spots showed slight fraying. I did some hand stitches to reinforce those areas, and I think my stitches blend in well with the original stitching.

If you would prefer to work with new kantha fabric, look for a kantha bedspread. Check the bed linen departments at major retail stores or look on Amazon or Etsy. I have also seen kantha by the yard on bolts at quilting shops. The fabric, stitching quality, and number of fabric layers will vary.

Some websites that sell Mieko Mintz’s clothing are listed below. These are great websites to gain design inspiration for other sewing projects as well.

By the way, I submitted photos of my kantha jacket to the Marcy Tilton blog (Marcy Tilton’s Blog for Everyday Creatives – Marcy Tilton Fabrics). Pictures of my jacket were included in her Sew &Tell – Summer Favorites, and I received a $50 gift card for March Tilton fabric!

Ekta Kaul’s book, Kantha: Sustainable Textiles and Mindful Making, describes the history and styles of kantha and illustrates many types of kantha stitches and embroidery used in the craft. She also introduces several textile artists who incorporate kantha in their work. There are pages and pages of beautiful photography.

[1] Mieko Mintz LLC (n.d.). Our Story. Mieko Mintz. Retrieved September 22, 2025, fromhttps://miekomintz.com/

[2] Kaul, E. (2024). Kantha: Sustainable Textiles and Mindful Making. Herbert Press, p.12-17.

by Deborah Turkleson, ASG Member, Houston chapter

October 31, 2025

On a Roll—DIY Continuous Bias

If you need bias for binding a quilt, trimming a jacket, or encasing edges on a placemat or other craft project, this tutorial is for you. Sometimes ready-made bias tape just isn’t right for your project, or maybe you want a custom color or pattern, so the simple answer is to make your own.

One way to make bias is to simply cut 45° strips of fabric and tediously sew the ends of the strips together with diagonal seams. That works, but it’s a bit time consuming. It’s much easier to create continuous bias.

In the Beginning

Continuous bias begins with a square of fabric. The size of that square is determined by two factors—the width of the bias strip you need, and the length you need. There are free online calculators to determine the square dimension, but this chart offers some common options:

Choosing Fabric Square Size

Length Needed	1 1/2″ Strips	2″ Strips	2 1/2″ Strips	3″ Strips
110″	14″ square	16” square	18” square	20” square
220″	19″ square	23” square	26” square	28” square
340″	23″ square	28” square	32” square	35” square
480″	28″ square	33” square	37” square	40” square

Chart courtesy of quiltingdaily.com

Cutting Up

Mark the appropriate size square diagonally from corner to corner and mark the center of the left and right sides. Cut the square in half diagonally (1).

With right sides together, match the center dots on the short triangle sides and sew the triangles together using a ¼” seam allowance. Press the seam open (2). The result is a parallelogram.

Using a permanent marker, pen or pencil, mark lines parallel to the long edges of the parallelogram for the chosen binding width (3). The lines should be on the fabric wrong side. Note: Don’t use a heat-removable pen, as you will be pressing during the bias-making process and the lines will disappear.

Fold the short sides of the parallelogram right side together forming a tube and off-set the lines by one strip width. Note: It’s important to offset the drawn lines or you won’t create continuous bias, only strips. Match the drawn lines at the ¼” seam line (not the edges) and stitch the seam (4).

(continued) Note that the folded piece will not lie flat because of the off-set. The piece will have an off-set row at both the top and the bottom (4a). Press the seam open.

Cut along the drawn line, through one layer only, beginning at the off-set edge, and you will have a spiral of bias in your chosen width (5). You’ll need to use scissors for this process as you’re cutting in a spiral—a rotary cutter won’t work.

Strip to Tape

Roll the bias and continue with your project directions. If you want double bias, press the strip in half lengthwise, matching the raw edges. If you want single bias with a folded edge, press under ¼” along the length of one edge.

If you want double-fold bias tape, press ¼” under on both long edges, then press the strip in half.

Make It Easy

For easier bias tape folding, use a bias tape maker in a size to coordinate with the size of your cut strip and desired finished width. Simply slide the strip into the tape maker and press as it exits the folding channel.

~Linda Griepentrog is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and three dogs, Yohnuh, Abby, and Lizzie. Contact her at .

October 24, 2025

Wrap Mastery: Fall Wraps & Shawls to Elevate Your Wardrobe

There’s something magical about the first real chill of fall. The trees are showing off, pumpkin spice has returned, and sewists everywhere are pulling out soft wools, plush knits, and cozy flannels. If you’re craving a quick, satisfying project that adds warmth and style to your wardrobe, a fall wrap, cover-up, or shawl might be just what you need. These pieces are endlessly versatile — part accessory, part statement, and all comfort.

Let’s explore some favorite styles and how you can make your own.

The Classic Rectangle Wrap

Think of the rectangle wrap as the “little black dress” of outerwear sewing — simple, timeless, and always right. It’s essentially a large piece of fabric that drapes elegantly around your shoulders, and yet it can look completely different depending on fabric choice and finishing. A simple rectangular wrap can be folded in half and belted for a cape-like look or draped over one shoulder with a brooch for instant sophistication. This shawl is the perfect excuse to add a new wearable art technique to your repertoire.

Best fabrics: Wool blends, cashmere, flannel, or heavier knits for warmth; lightweight challis or double gauze for transitional weather.

How to make it:

Cut a rectangle anywhere from 28″ to 42″ wide and 60″ to 84″ long. Shorter lengths make for a skimpier wrap that tends not to stay put.
When determining length, consider personal preferences (longer lengths tend to be more dramatic) as well as the proportions of the wearer (80″ of fabric can overwhelm a petite person).
Finish the edges with a narrow hem, fringe, or a decorative blanket stitch.
For added polish, consider adding a contrast binding or leather toggle closure.

The Ruana: The Best of Both Worlds

If a poncho and a shawl had a stylish child, it would be the ruana. Traditionally South American in origin, the ruana drapes beautifully while offering easy arm movement thanks to its open front. A ruana starts with about two yards of 45″-wide fabric.

For the simplest ruana, follow the diagram shown below. Try it on to check the proportions. If it’s too long, cut an equal amount off the lower edges on both front and back. Depending on your fabric, you may also want to cut away 2 1/2″ to 3″ on each side of the front opening so it falls smoothly around your neck. Finish all the raw edges. If it suits the fabric, consider self-fringe for the lower edges. The ruana looks equally great tossed over jeans and boots or layered over a dress. You can add a belt for shaping or even line it with a contrasting fabric for a fully reversible version.

Cocoon Wrap

The cocoon wrap also begins life as a flat rectangle. It is constructed with a front opening that goes approximately one-third up the length of the fabric and has side seams with deep armhole openings. When it is on the body, the short neck opening causes the garment to shift so that it is longer in the back. The front opening will cascade into a lapel-like effect. It’s beautiful in a variety of fabrics, including wool, lightweight wovens, and sheers. If you’re a frequent airline traveler, consider making one in fleece so it can serve as a combination traveling cloak and blanket.

The Poncho-Style Cover-Up

A poncho is like a wearable hug — roomy, stylish, and surprisingly easy to sew. You can make one with minimal shaping, no pattern required.

How to make it:

Start with a square or rectangle of fabric about 45″–50″ wide and long.
Fold it in half and cut a small neckline (try a shallow oval about 6″ wide).
Finish the neckline with bias binding, a facing, or even a cozy turtleneck collar cut from a rib knit.
For extra flair, add side seams with button or snap closures, leaving 8–10 inches open at the bottom for movement. Try sewing it from plaid flannel for a casual vibe or boiled wool for something more refined.

Pro tip: Fringe or decorative topstitching around the edges adds a custom touch without much effort.

Triangles make great wraps, too.

The easiest shape is a square, folded diagonally. Let the width of the fabric (48″, 54″, or 60″) dictate the size of the square. If you are embellishing your shawl and want to conceal its wrong side, cut two triangles, embellish one, and then sew the two together. Using the cutting diagram below, 3 1/2 yards of 45″-wide fabric will give you two ample triangles. If you want the shawl to have a larger presence, add fringe to the outer edges.

The Capelet: Small but Mighty

When you want just a touch of warmth without overwhelming your outfit, a capelet hits the sweet spot. It’s shorter than a cape and perfect for highlighting collars, buttons, or jewelry.

Sewing inspiration: Use a pattern designed for wovens or repurpose a vintage coat pattern by cropping it to shoulder length. Lightweight wool, boucle, or quilted fabrics are excellent choices. Add details like a Peter Pan collar, large buttons, or a satin lining for a polished finish.

The Shoulder Wrap

Larger than a scarf, but not a full shawl, this is great to wear as an accessory or to ward off a bit of chill in the air. The one pictures is approximately 7′ long and 20″ wide and is made from folded strips of fabric that are serged together.

The Blanket Scarf Shawl

If “cozy chic” is your fall aesthetic, the blanket scarf shawl delivers in spades. Oversized and effortlessly fashionable, it’s perfect for layering and snuggling.

How to make it:

Cut a large square, about 50″ x 50″.
Fringe the edges or hem them narrowly.
For a reversible twist, sew two coordinating flannels or lightweight wools wrong sides together, turning and topstitching around the edge.
Wear it diagonally across the body, belted at the waist, or simply draped around the neck. It’s one of those accessories that looks like you “just threw it on” but makes any outfit instantly more stylish.

Fabric and Finish Ideas

Plaid flannel: Classic and cozy — just be sure to match those checks!
Sweater knits: Drape beautifully and require minimal sewing.
Boiled wool: Doesn’t fray, so you can leave raw edges for a modern, minimalist finish.
Tweed or boucle: Add instant texture and luxury.
Try embellishing your wrap with appliqué, embroidery, or even a few hand-sewn beads for a personal touch. A coordinating pin or handmade belt can also transform the look.

Embellishments

When it comes to embellishments, it’s a big wide world. Here are just a few ideas:

Fabric dyeing. If you can’t find the colorway you desire, you can tie-dye, vat dye, sponge print, or even spray die to get the print and colors that suit your fancy.
Machine embroidery. With limitless possibilities, the only caveat is to pay attention to scale and/or repetition so the motif doesn’t disappear into the folds of your wrap. And think about how your finished wrap will look on both sides. If this is a problem, consider these two solutions: create free-standing machine embroidery motifs that can be appliquéd in place or line/self-line the wrap.
Edgings. Ruffles, feathers, fringe, pleating, beading, even embroidered appliques are all fabulous ways to define the edges of your wrap.

Wrapping It Up (Pun Intended)

Fall sewing is all about comfort meeting creativity. Wraps, cover-ups, and shawls are ideal projects whether you’re a beginner looking for a no-pattern project or an experienced sewist seeking to play with texture and design. They’re quick, functional, and satisfyingly stylish — the sewing equivalent of a warm cup of cider. So go ahead: pull out that fabric you’ve been saving, grab your rotary cutter, and make yourself something fabulous to bundle up in. When the leaves fall and the air turns crisp, you’ll be wrapped in your own handmade warmth — and style.

October 17, 2025

Q&A: Jeans, Grommets, & Invisible Zippers, Oh My!

We receive numerous sewing queries and many require relative short answers, so check out our Q&A for some timesaving tips.

Q: My granddaughter’s jeans keep looking too short for her as she grows taller. Is there a quick way to add length instead of just cutting them off for shorts?

A: Absolutely—when kids grow taller rather than wider, there’s no need to ditch the pants quite yet. Add a ruffle to the lower edge and tie it in with an embroidered motif. Open up the inseam for easy access for embroidering the motif, then measure the leg circumference to figure the ruffle amount needed. Each ruffle piece should be about 2 ½ to 3 times the width of the jeans leg circumference. Cut the piece twice the desired finished length, plus seam allowances.

After embroidering, stitch up the inside leg seam to form a circle and trim off the bulky jeans hem. Sew the ruffle short ends together to form a circle. Fold the ruffle strip in half wrong sides together and press. Quarter-mark the leg opening and the ruffle raw edges. Sew a gathering thread around the ruffle raw edges and pull up to match the leg circumference. Matching the quarter-points, pin the ruffle to the jeans leg right side, pulling up the gathering thread to match the leg width. Stitch the ruffle in place, then serge or zigzag the raw edges together. Topstitch, if desired. Repeat for the second leg. This adds a few more months of growth room to the jeans!

Q: I’m scared to put in grommets. Any advice?

A: Grommets can be scary since they’re usually inserted when your project is otherwise completed, so one slip-up can potentially ruin the entire thing. But, never fear, you can do it!

Grommet insertion processes can vary slightly by brand, but here are some general hints:

Be sure the area where the grommets are placed is reinforced with added interfacing, batting or multiple fabric layers (like a facing) to strengthen it. Your pattern should give you guidance on the best option.
Carefully mark the center of each grommet location, trace the template and cut the appropriate size hole. Be careful not to cut the hole too large!
Note that grommets have both a male and female portion and you need one of each for every grommet opening.
Use the appropriate tool or pliers to apply your particular grommet brand. Test on a scrap of fabric with the same number of layers prior to starting on your project.

Q: I love the look of invisible zippers, but I never seem to get the stitching close enough to the coils to make it truly invisible. Can you help?

A: Invisible zippers create a professional looking garment when they’re installed properly. The key is to stitch as close to the coils as possible using a specialty presser foot. This foot is can be an accessory for your machine, or some are sold by the zipper manufacturer, and it “rolls out” the zipper coil so you can stitch close to it without catching the teeth. The teeth travel in a groove under the presser foot, and in conjunction with adjusting the needle position, you should be able to stitch close enough to hide the zipper teeth. On lightweight invisible zippers, it helps to hold the coils in their rolled out position as they feed into the foot groove. If you’re not comfortable with your fingers that close to the needle, use an awl for that process to keep them in place for stitching.

If you don’t have a special foot for installation, use your regular zipper foot and adjust the needle position to be right next to the coils, then manually roll out the coils and stitch along the base of the coils.

If your zipper pull doesn’t quite blend with the fabric, think about using nail polish to match it up.

October 10, 2025

Seeking Creativity

The first time he walked by me, I wasn’t sure he even saw me. The second time, he did glance my way.

The third time, however, he paused and asked, “Are you OK?”

“Yes,” I replied, and he walked on.

But it was the fourth time that he stopped and said, “What are you doing? Why are you just sitting there holding fabric?”

“Seeking creativity,” I responded.

The look on his face told me he didn’t understand, and no matter what I said, I knew he would never understand. Despite the fact that we have been together for nearly 50 years, he still doesn’t “get” my fascination with fabric. How could he? He has never sewn. He has never held a cozy velour and fantasized about all it could be—a jacket, a top, a robe, even a pair of pants.

He doesn’t understand the loving effort it takes to select the perfect embroidery design to use to embellish an otherwise plain fabric. He doesn’t understand the enjoyment of seeing the design come to life as the stitches form.

How could I explain to him the multitude of possibilities that were racing through my mind for that one piece of fabric? My imagination had been nearly overwhelmed with all the potential. I could make that fabric into anything I wanted. I could select the type of garment. I could select the pattern and cut. I could make changes that even the pattern designer never dreamed of. I just needed time to sit and think and hold the fabric . . . time to dream.

I suddenly had a flashback to my ninth grade home ec class when my teacher told us to ask the fabric what it wanted to be. She told us to hold the fabric and talk to it. I remember thinking she was nuts. I remember the look we gave her.

That was the same look on his face. Oh no, did he think I was losing it? Was he going to start watching me for signs of dementia? I quickly recovered and said, “I’m just tired. I got this fabric out to make something and am just resting a minute before I climb the stairs to the sewing room.”

Relief flooded his face. Resting for a minute was something he could understand. “Oh,” he said, and off he went to his computer.

No, he would never understand my fascination with fabric or the process of creativity. He would not be able to talk the talk of designers. He would never just sit with me and experience the feel of a fabric. This was not something we could ever share. But that was OK. I was not alone. I picked up the phone and called an ASG sister.

There are just some things that only another sewer can understand.

Sometimes, we dig through the archives and find an oldie-but-goodie that we feel needs shared again. This article was written by Rosemary Fajgier who was a Princeton, N.J. Chapter founding member, was president of her chapter for four years and also served on the ASG National Board of Directors (BOD) as well as serving as National BOD Chair.