ASG Sewing Blog – Page 18

October 20, 2023

Project: Doris’s Adult Bib

Is there ever a day that goes by that you aren’t thankful for your sewing skills? Not here.

Doris When I first moved to my small coastal town, I discovered that the post office does not deliver mail to the town’s residents. “What?” But the more I thought about it, there was an opportunity for exercise and walking the mile-and-a-half circuit to the post office with at least one of our dogs, to retrieve the mail. Along the way early on in the adventure, I passed an adult care home and a lady was sitting on the covered porch in her wheelchair calling out “doggie, doggie!” So, I went up to the porch with the dog and we started to chat. I asked her how many people stopped to talk to her, and she replied “no one, but you.”

Over the four years I’ve lived here, on the morning walk to get the mail, I always wonder if Doris will be out on the porch…some days she’s there, other days not, mostly dependent on the weather. One day we were talking and I asked her when her birthday was—turns out it’s 10 days after mine! Hmmm…what can one do in celebration for someone who is not mobile and living in an adult care facility?

I had an “aha” moment and decided to sew up 10 fleece hats, telling her to keep her favorites and share the others with the staff and other residents (who occasionally sit on the porch as well). Those were a big hit and she’s been sporting several throughout the months when there’s a chill in the air. But I decided my next project for her would be an adult bib—winner, winner, chicken dinner as they say! I’m currently making her third bib, this year to celebrate her 81st birthday.

It takes less than an hour to make and choosing fun prints is easy as pie. You probably have everything you need in your stash. So, today I’m sharing with you how to make Doris’s bib! Think about reaching out to someone in your own community who may need a bit of cheer—the project is super easy, takes only a yard of fabric, and you can make it up in less than an hour.

Doris’s Bib

Choose a washable and colorful busy print in a darker color to hide food spills, etc. There can be a theme to the fabric, like food motifs, or a sports print, or simply a favorite color that you’ve learned of through chatting. Doris’s favorite colors are pink and purple, and she has Crocs in both hues.

What you’ll need for each bib:

1 yard print fabric
1 package of double-fold bias tape (at least 3 ½ yards)
1” hook-and-loop tape
Matching thread
Pattern tracing paper
Bib pattern (PDF format)

Making the bib

Trace the upper bib shape from the bib pattern (link above). Continue the center front line so it’s 27” long, then draw a line perpendicular to the center front line at the bottom. Extend the side edge straight down to match the bottom line. Using a saucer, round the lower outer corner for easier binding. Label the center front.
Refold the fabric to the width of the bib and pin the pattern center front to the fold. Pin the remaining pattern edges in place and cut out.
Starting at the back tab, bind the bib edges. Use a narrow zigzag to ensure catching both the upper and lower bias tape edges. Place the needle in the down position to make it easier to adjust the bias tape around the narrow tab curves. Be sure the bib edge is inserted all the way into the bias tape.
Press the bib edges to shape.
Sew the hook portion of the fastener to the wrong side of the overlapping neck tab, and the loop section to the right side of the underlapping tab.

Some options:

Add a pocket from the extra fabric.
Choose a second print and make the bib reversible.
Make the bib from terry cloth fabric, but be sure to pre-shrink it. Choose an extra-wide bias tape due to the fabric thickness.
For a waterproof version, use vinyl fabric. It’s easy to clean with just a wipe.

This bib is also suited for groups needing a community service project—even beginner sewers can make it up easily. Set up an assembly line of cutters, binders and fastener attachers for mass production.

~Linda Griepentrog is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and three dogs, Yohnuh, Abby, and Lizzie. Contact her at .

October 13, 2023

The Italian Flap (preview)

Known for their high-priced ready-to-wear and timeless tailored designs, Armani, Gucci, and Valentino frequently accent their impeccable jackets with this decorative flap. The flap is easy-to-sew and since all the raw edges are completely enclosed at the top, it is also very neat. It’s used on fine wools, silks, and linens in medium and light weights, but is also suitable for washable garments in similar weight materials.

Make the Flap

When making these flaps for fine garments, always make a sample to be sure the measurements given here provide the best results for your particular fabric and design.

1. Block fuse a very lightweight interfacing to the wrong side of the flap fabric.

2. For each flap, use the flap pattern to cut one flap and one flap lining. Cut the flap from the interfaced fashion fabric. Cut the flap lining from a piece of self-fabric (without interfacing) if the fabric is lightweight or from a lightweight lining material if it is medium weight.

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October 6, 2023

Meant-to-be-Seen Seams

Most of our sewing positions seams on the inside of a garment or project, but there are times when you may want to showcase a seam on the outside of your creation. Why, you ask? Seams can be fun!

Inside Out

Traditional seams are sewn right sides together and the resulting seam allowances are on the inside of the garment but turn that around for some fun. Try stitching the seams wrong sides together so that the seam allowances are showcased on the outside. For a very casual look, leave the edges raw.

You can choose to topstitch the seam allowances open flat with a straight or zig-zag stitch.

For added pizzazz, use a contrasting decorative stitch. For easier decorative stitching, use a narrow strip of fusible web to hold the seam allowances in place. For even more fun use decorative scissors, like pinking, scallop or wave, to trim the exposed seam allowance edges.

If you prefer, instead of pressing the seam allowances open, press them to one side and topstitch.

Seam allowances can also be finished with serging, using either matching or contrasting thread colors {pic}. For a more decorative look, use a novelty thread or yarn in the loopers.

This technique is especially fun if the wrong side of the fabric looks significantly different from the face side. Denims, double knits, double-wovens and fleece are good candidates for outside seaming. Lightweight leather also works, showcasing the sueded side to the outside.

Abutted Seam

Non-woven fabrics, such as faux leather or suede, faux furs and some knits work well with this flat seam, as do some heavy wools like melton. To create an abutted seam, trim the seam allowances of adjacent seamlines, then push the edges together and join with a zigzag or three-step zig-zag stitch, or even a decorative stitch that spans the two edges. It’s important for strength that the selected stitch catches both edges securely.

For a little extra strength, fuse a narrow strip of lightweight interfacing under the abutted edges prior to stitching. This also helps keep stretchy fabrics from distorting and rippling during the stitching process.

You can use this seam finish with woven fabrics as well, simply press under the seam allowance edges rather than trimming them off. Then, abut the folded edges for joining.

Lapped Seam

Instead of stitching a conventional seam, a lapped seam is created simply by lapping one section over an adjacent one and stitching in place. A lapped seam is ideal for non-wovens, leather, felted fabrics, boiled wools, etc. where fraying isn’t an issue.

To create a lapped seam, trim the entire seam allowance from the overlapping layer only. Using a removable marker, mark the seam allowance line on the right side of the underlap layer. Place the trimmed layer over the bottom layer and topstitch in place using one or two rows of stitching. You can either stitch twice, or use a double-needle to create the parallel stitching lines. The underlayer can be trimmed to reduce bulk if desired.

To make this process even easier, use a narrow strip of fusible web between the layers to keep them in place for stitching.

For a bit of pizzazz, trim the overlapping seam allowance edge with decorative scissors before stitching, or use one of your machine’s decorative stitches for the stitching lines. If the seam is in a stress-free area, a single line of stitching can suffice.

Which way should the seams lap? They can lap whatever way you prefer, but traditionally, front goes over back at side seams and shoulders, armholes go over sleeves, and left back goes over right back.

Strapped Seam

A strapped seam is sewn wrong sides together, then the seam allowances are trimmed and pressed open. Another piece of fabric or trim (contrasting or matching) is centered over the seamline and topstitched in place. The seam allowances are totally hidden by the strapping, so the garment inside is simply flat and finished.

This type of seam is a great way to add reflective trim on outerwear, add ribbon or a contrast fabric, as long as the addition is wider than the pressed-open seam allowances. The strapping strip edges need to be finished before applying if the fabric frays. Options for finishing include decorative scissor cutting, decorative stitching or serging, or choose a pre-made tape trim.

Strapped seams are often found on faux leather garments or those made from heavy wool, melton or felted fabrics, as this finish creates a flat seam that can also be decorative.

All these seam finishes can be used on reversible garments, so you can double the fun!

September 29, 2023

The Heart of the Sewing Room

For most of us, the sewing machine is one of our most important possessions. And it’s no secret that the space we use to pursue our passion for sewing plays an important part in the ultimate enjoyment that we receive. The following suggestions are offered knowing that not everyone who sews has unlimited space, but to whatever extent the ideas can be incorporated into the space available, there will be a lessening of fatigue and a greater sense of freedom.

Position the Machine for Comfort

With the exception of when you are travelling or at sew-in meetings, never sew with the machine in a portable state because the fabric cannot be controlled properly when it is dropping off an edge. While you may succeed for a time, there will be greater strain on your back and wrists, and the end result of your project will not be as professional. If your machine is a frequent “traveler” though, you can purchase a portable tabletop or extension that fits around the arm of your machine and rests on the existing table that will help to alleviate any strain or fabric-skewing issues.

At home, a machine that is recessed into a table or cabinet at the correct height (usually about 30″ from the floor) is one of the best options. You should be able to sit comfortably with your back as straight as possible while resting your arms on the machine. While you may be leaning forward slightly, your back will still be straight. Accordingly, when using a portable machine, since it rises above the table, try to get a shorter table, adjustable table, or cut down the legs of an old table to bring it to the proper height. Also make sure the table is stabilized so that it doesn’t jiggle and jive when you press on the pedal.

Seating

The choice of a chair is crucial to your comfort level. There are chairs that are specifically made for use at a sewing, quilting, or craft table, but any comfortable, sturdy, solid-backed chair that allows you to rest your arms comfortably on the machine without back strain will work. Look for chairs with adjustable features such as seat height and backrest angle to customize your seating position. A chair with adequate padding and cushioning on the seat and backrest will enhance your comfort during long sewing sessions. Some sewing chairs even come with built-in storage compartments or pockets for holding sewing supplies or tools. Look in your local sewing or craft store for chairs specifically made for the sewing room or check out an office supply store for armless secretarial chairs. If you have solid surface floors (tile, vinyl, etc.), note that a lightweight chair with wheels could be problematic and may be slip-sliding away from you. The chair should provide good support for your back, neck, and arms to prevent discomfort and strain during long sewing sessions. Remember that a comfortable and ergonomic sewing setup can make a significant difference in your sewing experience and help prevent fatigue or discomfort.

Sewing themed chair with storage available on Amazon.

Lighting

If you’re tiring quickly or your eyes are straining, lighting could be to blame. Try adding a clip-on lamp to the left side of your machine to add task lighting, but remember to clamp toward the back of the table so it doesn’t interfere with your work. When considering placement for the machine, never place it so that you face into a window. It may seem pleasant, but you’ll be facing into a glare. If you want to be by the window, place the machine perpendicular to the window so that your left shoulder faces the window.

Remember the 20-20-20 rule — blink often and look up from your machine or close-up work every 20 minutes and focus at least 20 feet away for 20 seconds.

Bright Ideas

Sometimes we need a little assistance with light. The following are some ideas from our members:

Lighted Headband Magnifying Glass available on Amazon

Jane uses a lighted magnifier worn on a headband which allows the lens piece to be tilted up when not in use.
Pattie uses all LED’s.
Cindy reports that she uses overhead can lights with LED bulbs above her cutting table and machines, with the addition of two under-counter LED lights at her worktable.
Virginia has LED bulbs in the overhead light in her room, along with some track lights. She also uses a large Ott light above her machine.
Denise uses a floor lamp, two table-top lamps, and one clamp-on light.
Mary loves her DayLight Company floor and table lamps.
Karen enjoys skylights and a window in her room and adds goose-neck Ott Lights for task lighting.
Betsy has an overhead 4′ LED light, a fluorescent task light (circular) with magnifying glass at the machine; and an incandescent banker’s desklight on the table with the backup machine.
Janice added several mirrors to her sewing space to help reflect the light.
Finally, Becki says her philosophy is that if the 7:15 from Atlanta isn’t trying to land in your sewing room, then you should buy ‘Luminos Task Lamps’ from the Daylight Company.

Solutions

Former couture sewist and garment industry technical assistant, Margaret Islander, shared these tips with ASG many years ago and they are still applicable today: Extend your sewing table:

Attach a strip of wood on the wall directly across from the back edge and at the same height as the back edge of your machine.
Make a canvas sling the width of the back of the machine table and the desired length needed from the wall to extend it to carry the bulk of fabric.
Hem the sides and ends of the sling and attach a row of grommets to each end.
Attach hooks to the mounted board and to the back edge of machine table to match the placement of grommets and hook on the sling. This will give you a much larger “table” space. You can use any means of attachment that will be sturdy.

When not in use the machine can be pushed back to the wall and the sling allowed to hang down invisibly between the machine and wall. Alternatively, if you have two machines in your sewing space, try facing the tables toward each other and set up the sling between them. Department Mania

Set up your sewing space with special departments. Consider repurposing a trusty older machine just for topstitching. Then, instead of rethreading with contrast thread and changing stitch length each time you need to topstitch, simply move over to your Topstitch Deparment.
Do you do a lot of buttonholes? Set up a Buttonhole Department for standard and keyhole buttonholes. (Some of the old machines with template buttonholers were great!)
Finally, if you are in the business of sewing, an industrial sewing machine that is designed to speedily accomplish straight and zig-zag stitches will allow you to use your preferred machine for the specialty touches.

September 22, 2023

Tote Tactics

Totes are one of the easiest projects sewers can make and are often a first project for beginners. They can be lined, unlined, open-top, zipper-top or even closed with a magnetic fastener, and some offer inside and/or outside pockets as an extra convenience. Tote bags generally have flat bottoms and corner shaping, though they can also simply be flat. These handy carryalls have gained popularity in recent years as many shoppers sport their own bags to the store to carry home their purchases.

The simple design of a tote makes it ideal for many fabrics from canvas to ripstop, quilting weights and home décor styles, even leather. Unlined totes made in lightweights like ripstop are ideal for grocery hauling, as they fold totally flat, but are still strong for carrying cans, produce and other vittles.

There are many patterns available for tote bags, or you can easily make your own simple version with two rectangles and some straps. But, no matter the style, there are some handy tips for tote making.

Inside Scoop

Unless your tote is unlined, it’s a good idea to reinforce the bag sides with interfacing or sewable foam for added stability and shape retention. Judge the type of stabilization needed by the fabric weight—lighter weight fabrics require a sturdier interfacing.

Fusible interfacings, fleeces and foams are ideal backing for tote sides. Cut the pieces the same size and shape as the outer bag pieces. Some sewers like to trim the seam allowances from the backing pieces prior to fusing to reduce bulk. Be sure to follow the manufacturer’s instructions for proper fusing and always allow the pieces to cool before moving them.

Bottom Basics

Flat tote bottoms can be further stabilized by adding an insert of the same size after constructing the bag. Materials available for inserts are acrylic shapes, very stiff interfacing or a rectangle of heavy plastic canvas and often come in various sizes, colors, and styles, or as cut-your-own. If the tote is unlined, simply cover the bottom insert with matching fabric. For lined totes, the stabilizer goes between the outer and lining layers. To keep the bottom insert from shifting, it’s a good idea to loosely tack it in place at the side seams.

Bottom of bags — Tote bag base shapers are available on Amazon.

Solid Footing

Adding bag feet to a tote bottom is a great way to help keep the tote cleaner, as it allows the fabric itself to stay off the ground. Bag feet come in a variety of shapes, colors and sizes, and they are applied prior to any lining, but after interfacing. Feet can be applied like a magnetic fastener with two prongs inserted into a small hole in the desired corner location on the finished bottom. A piece of foam or stiff interfacing is placed over the prongs for reinforcement, then the metal prongs are folded outward and flattened. To further protect the bag lining, a piece of fleece or interfacing can be placed over the prongs as a cushion. Feet are also available in screw-back versions and can be padded and reinforced as needed.

Bag feet available on Amazone — Bag feet available on Amazon.

Getting a Handle on it

There are a wide variety of options for tote handles. They can be short or over-the-shoulder length, and made from self-fabric, webbing, rope or leather (real or faux). The handles can simply be sewn to the tote top hem, or they can straddle the entire length of the tote and included in the bottom seam. Or, they can be applied to the outside tote surfaces, depending on the desired look.

If the tote is unlined, it’s a good idea to have a double hem at the top for stability when attaching handles to the opening.

Tote handles made of fabric need some kind of reinforcement to make them sturdy—so insert interfacing or fleece inside and topstitch both edges to flatten.

If you’re attaching finished straps to the tote outside, turn under any unfinished ends, then sew a square at each strap end, reinforced with an x for added strength.

Any handles applied to the outside of the tote should be attached prior to lining it so that the stitching or attachment backings are hidden. If you plan to carry heavy items in the tote, add a piece of stiff interfacing behind any outside handle attachments for reinforcement.

Leather handles can be attached several ways depending on the style. Some come with pre-punched holes for easy hand stitching; others require the use of screws or rivets to attach. One handy notion is called a Chicago screw—it’s a post and cap that fits into pre-made handle holes and, as the name implies, simply screws together to secure.

Flat leather handles attached with Chicago screws.

If you’re hand-sewing leather handles in place, use heavy thread and a backstitch for a sturdy application. Some lightweight leather handles can be machine stitched in place as well.

Leather strap on a tote — Rolled leather handles attached with hand-stitching.

Share your tote projects with us! Visit our Facebook page for today’s post and show us your own tote bag projects.