ASG Sewing Blog – Page 20

June 23, 2023

Sew Unusual: Make Your Own Shoes or DIY an Umbrella

Chances are good that if you’ve sewn for years, there have been a few unconventional projects emerge from your sewing room—things that onlookers (and even fellow sewers) are amazed that you tackled. Maybe it was a behemoth sized project like a tent or sail, or perhaps an uncommon material for the sewing world like metal or plastic. But, as sewing enthusiasts, we always seem up for a challenge and there’s almost nothing we won’t try.

Sole Mates

Making your own shoes may seem a bit farfetched, but hey, why not? Perhaps you’d like to make some custom quilted sneakers, leather high-tops, summery espadrilles or sandals. There are kits and components available for all of those. It takes some ingenuity and hand sewing, but you’ve got a one-of-a-kind pair sure to be admired by all your sewing friends. Soles, both rope for espadrilles, and rubberized for sneakers, are available separately, or they can be a kit component depending on how you want to purchase them.

Perhaps you can try out some new sewing skills that you don’t use regularly, especially on the sneakers. You’ll get to put in metal eyelets using a punch and/or a stiletto, sew with a curved needle, or create shoelace openings with the eyelet function on your sewing machine. You can even make your own shoelaces, complete with readymade aglets for stylin’.

Espadrilles (left) by Duana Chandler @duanastudio, using a pattern from @sewcreatebyjaime Fabriculous (right) quilted sneakers: Fabriculous Quilted Sneaker kit

DIY Shoemaking Resources

A Happy Stitch, espadrille kits
Chicago School of Shoemaking & Leather Arts, shoemaking kits and classes
Fabriculous, sneaker kits
Sneaker Kit, leather sneaker kits, soles
Tandy Leather, leather sneaker kits

Under Cover

Making your own umbrella requires some serious dedication, but it’s easier than you might think. First, you need a frame. Then you need fabric. You can use laminated cotton fabrics for an all-in-one shine, a rain repellent outdoor fabric, or even a quilting cotton adding a second step for waterproofing, if needed. Keep in mind that not all brellies are used for rain protection—some are designed to keep you out of the sun, and they’re also a perfect accent to a summer wedding with parasols coordinating with bridesmaid dresses.

Images courtesy of Nancy Zieman Productions

Precision sewing and cutting is a requisite so the sections fit exactly over the umbrella ribs, otherwise things don’t work well for opening and closing. But the real fun may come as you create a cutting strategy—depending on the fabric print, you can create a literal kaleidoscope of color on the top of the parasol.

DIY Umbrella Resources

Nancy Zieman Productions, umbrella frames and Judy Gauthier’s book, “Umbrella”.
Sailrite, video tutorial for making a patio umbrella.

Specialty Notes

Whether you’re sewing shoes, an umbrella or anything unconventional, there are some basics to consider:

Choose a needle and thread compatible with the fabric. There’s nothing like an oversized needle hole in an umbrella seam allowing water to drip onto you to remind you of this premise.
Always test-sew on the fabric you’re using before starting the project. This will allow you to adjust tensions, stitch lengths and stitch choices so they all work together on what might be an unusual fabric. Sew seams and some topstitching, as the number of layers you’re sewing through can be different.
Test-press the fabric before you begin sewing. Some fabrics simply cannot be pressed with an iron and require finger-pressing instead so they don’t melt or mar. A flat wooden pressing stick is helpful for flattening bulky seams on non-pressable fabrics.

~Linda Griepentrog is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and three dogs, Yohnuh, Abby, and Lizzie. Contact her at .

June 16, 2023

Embroidery on Specialty Fabrics (Preview)

One of the most common questions that comes up in the embroidery process, next to which stabilizer to use, is how to embroider specialty fabrics. While most embroidery designs will sew out easily on a smooth fabric, if you’re sewing on a fabric that has a little texture or special features, there are several things you need to take into consideration. One concern is the texture of the fabric — for slightly textured fabrics such as a pique knit, you may only need to use a topping. But for others, you may need to adjust the design.

Embroidery on Knits

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June 9, 2023

Denim Refresh

Denim is quite possibly the most loved fabric, not only in America, but around the world. Its soft blue, flexible nature is a comfort to daily routines for many…think of your beloved jeans, or that just-warm-enough, wear-everywhere jeans jacket.

Denim jacket — Photo courtesy of Treasured Threadz™, amybarickman.com

But there comes a time when that beloved denim shows signs of wear and tear. It can be a sad day, or it can be a day of new opportunities. For creative sewers, it’s mostly the latter.

Most parts of denim garments can be salvaged and repurposed. Whether you use those expertly topstitched fly closures for bags, those embroidered or bejeweled pockets for something new, or small parts like labels and belt loops for new embellishments, worn denim can have a new and longer life.

Pocket Picks

If you want to keep the bold stitching that attaches the pocket to the jeans, use your sharp scissors and carefully cut the chosen back pocket from the jeans just barely outside the perimeter stitching, cutting as close as possible to the stitching without damaging it or the pocket’s folded edges. From the wrong side, trim the backing fabric behind the pocket, also close to the perimeter stitching so that it’s not part of your new use. Voila—a new pocket for your new project!

An easy way to utilize the trimmed pocket is to put narrow strips of fusible web behind the sides and bottom edges, then fuse in place on the new project. Use matching thread and stitch as close to the pocket’s folded edges as possible, backstitching at the top edges for added security.

For an almost invisible stitching, look for denim thread, a twisted combination of two navy blue colored strands that matches the denim coloration. Or for feature stitching, choose a bold gold jeans or topstitching weight thread and elongate the stitch length to match the original jeans stitches.

Opening Up

One of the easiest ways to disassemble a pair of jeans is to open the inseam, assuming it’s not a flat-felled seam. Opening up this seam will allow for the most usable fabric without piecing as the legs can then open flat. If you open carefully, the original hem can stay in place, perhaps making it usable for your new item.

If you’re making a pieced project, the flat fabric makes it easy to cut your new piecing sizes, and you can incorporate the center flat-felled seam in the new plan since it’s already stitched.

Depending on the size of the jeans you’re working with, the fly-front zipper may become an integral part of another project, so don’t disassemble it unless you want to repurpose the zipper on its own.

Vintage Vibes

Perhaps the worn or stained spots in your favorite denim garb aren’t to your liking. That’s easy to fix—just cover them up with other fabric or embellishments. If you’ve got an embroidery machine, stitch up some patches to camouflage the holes. Use scraps to make some fun shapes and hand- or machine stitch them over the affected spots.

Or, follow the lead of designer Amy Barickman and make your own patches from pre-printed fabric designed with a vintage look. Her Treasured Threadz™ line offers two different print collections—one in soft denim blue quilt blocks and one in brighter color postage-stamp groupings. Each of the 14” x 44” panels have several shapes with room between for seam allowances, perfect to dress up multiple garments. In addition, there’s a video tutorial on ways to use these clever pre-prints.

Whether you’re making your own fabric patches, or using the ready-made print shapes, it’s a good idea to add a backing to the fabric for stability. Fusible fleece, lightweight batting, or a firm interfacing all work well. Then you can go to town with hand stitching, machine stitching, quilting, beading, etc. to embellish the additions.

Depending on the garment location you’re highlighting, you may need to hand-stitch the embellished pieces in place—especially on narrow jean legs or wrist areas. If you have access, like on a jacket back, front placket or collar, machine stitching works fine as well.

Photos courtesy of Treasured Threadz™, amybarickman.com

So, don’t give up on those worn denims—embrace the creative opportunity to give them new life!

~Linda Griepentrog Linda is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and two dogs, Yohnuh and Abby. Contact her at .

June 2, 2023

Eliminating the Waistband: Bandless Waist

If you hate waistbands, bandless waist garments may be your new favorite style. A bandless waist skirt, also known as a waistband-free skirt, is a style of skirt that does not have a separate or visible waistband. Instead, the waistline is created by folding and shaping the fabric itself, and the top edge is finished with a shaped facing or ribbon rather than a waistband. Also called faced or contour waists, this type of skirt offers a clean, streamlined look and can be a versatile addition to your wardrobe.

You can purchase patterns without waistbands, such as Vogue 1942 or 1683, or you can adjust your favorite skirt pattern to eliminate the waistband on a fitted pattern with darts.

Vogue Patterns — Vogue patterns with bandless waist.

In this article, we will be converting our traditional waistband finish to a bandless waist. The waist will be finished with scalloped-edge grosgrain ribbon that is turned to the inside. Be sure to read through the instructions before starting.

The grosgrain ribbon you purchase should have tiny, scalloped edges and needs to be 1″ in width. This type of ribbon is commonly known as Hatter’s ribbon and can be molded and shaped with an iron. Grosgrain ribbon with a straight edge cannot be molded and will not conform to the shape of the body.

Fabric Selection

Choose a fabric that is suitable for the desired style of the skirt. Consider factors such as drape, weight, and stretch, depending on the look you want to achieve.

Skirt Construction

Cut and construct your garment through the waistband step.

Step 1: Before applying the grosgrain, make sure that the waist of the garment measures 1″ to 1 1/2″ larger than your waist.

Step 2: Sew an ease-line around the waist at 5/8″ to ease in the fullness to your waist size.

Step 3: Stabilize the waist by sewing a piece of twill tape to the waistline seam on the wrong side of the fabric. Trim 3/8″ away from raw edge at waistline.

Step 4: Shape grosgrain ribbon with an iron, stretching one outside edge slightly as you press. This will allow the ribbon to sit comfortably on your waist.

Step 5: Fold under raw end of ribbon 1/2″ — a conventional seam is not used here to eliminate bulk.

Overlay the ribbon, folded edge out, onto the right side of the garment, matching fold of ribbon to the edge of the skirt opening and lining up the unstretched, lengthwise edge of the ribbon with the twill taped stitching line.
Topstitch the ribbon into place all around the waist, sewing 1/8″ from the edge of the ribbon, very close to the twill tape stitching line.

Step 6: Fold back 1/2″ on the ribbon end to finish it when you reach the side opening. Turn ribbon to the inside of the garment. Place over tailor’s ham and press. Try on the skirt and feel the comfort. Stretching and molding the ribbon before sewing is the key.

~ This article was adapted and modified from an article by Sandra Betzina from Power Sewing that appeared in a previous issue of Notions.

May 26, 2023

Fusible Thread Lines

Most sewers have fusible web in their arsenal of sewing tools, but in areas where you need only a teeny line of adhesive, check out fusible thread. Yes, thread that fuses. The fibers are activated by the heat of the iron, as they have a low melting point.

Fusible thread enables you to place a very thin line of adhesive exactly where you need to, without the mess of glue or trying to trim web narrowly. And, you can sew and serge with it to help get it where you need it. Do note, most fusible threads create only a temporary hold, until you sew permanently.

Name Game

Fusible threads are made by several different companies, and they look slightly different depending on the brand. Some are white, others clearer; some are tightly twisted, others not. Check your favorite sewing or quilting shop for these options: YLI Fusible Thread, Wonderfil Iron ‘n Fuse™, Gütermann Fusible Thread, Superior Charlotte’s Fusible Web and Floriani Press N Bond.

Fuse Use

Fusible thread can be used in the bobbin of a conventional sewing machine or in the lower looper of the serger, depending on the application, but always paired with regular thread. If you use it on a conventional machine, wind the bobbin slower than you would regular thread. Some brands of fusible thread can also be used through the eye of a large needle, but be sure to test-stitch to note any tension adjustments needed.

Fusible thread is always placed on the side of the fabric where fusing is needed for the final application, so note which side is up when stitching.

Fusible Applications

Non-sewing applications include placing a strand of fusible thread inside pleat folds to help create sharp edges. Or, add a thread inside a pant crease to maintain a perfect crease. A fusible thread strand is ideal for quickly “basting” a patch pocket in place for stitching.

If you’re applying narrow trims, fusible thread placed under the trim is just enough to hold it in place for stitching.

Matching plaids or stripes is easy peasy with fusible thread. Press under one seam allowance, position the fusible along the folded edge, overlap matching the design, and press. Then open out the seam allowances for regular thread stitching along the seamline. (Figure 1)

For garment sewing, fusible thread can be used in several ways. Use it for understitching—on the facing seam wrong side. After sewing, turn the facing to the inside and press the edge to melt the thread. Topstitch if desired.

When creating a narrow hem, such as at an armhole or on a ruffle, use the fusible thread in the serger lower looper. Position the fusible on the fabric wrong side, press the narrow hem in place, and stitch permanently using regular thread. This works for wider hems as well, as they stay in place for hand or machine finishing.

Do you have issues with zipper insertion, especially those centered applications? With fusible thread in the bobbin, sew a zigzag along the zipper tape edges so that the fusible is on the zipper right side. Center the zipper over the basted placket area and fuse in place. Add the permanent stitching with regular thread and voila—the zipper is perfectly centered without shifting. (Figure 2)

If you’re creating an appliqué, trace the shape onto the appliqué fabric right side. With fusible thread in the bobbin, sew around the appliqué shape. Trim very close to the stitching line, then fuse the appliqué in place on the base fabric. To finish it, use a decorative stitch or zigzag around the appliqué edge.

One advantage of using fusible thread for appliqué, as opposed to fusible web, is that only the outer edge is fused, not the entire shape. So, there’s less stiffness, and to reduce bulk, the area under the appliqué shape can easily be trimmed away if needed, or you can easily cut a slit in it to add stuffing for a dimensional look.

Quilters often use fusible thread for an easy binding application. Binding can be attached from back to front, or front to back. Stitch the binding to the quilt using regular thread. Then, use a zigzag with fusible thread in the bobbin to stitch the binding seam allowances together; the fusible should be on the unfinished side of the binding. Press the binding over the edge and fuse. To finish, topstitch or hand-stitch in place…no pins or clips needed to hold it securely in place while stitching. (Figure 3)

So, be sure that fusible thread stays close in your sewing room, as you’ll find all kinds of tasks to use it for!