One of the most common questions that comes up in the embroidery process, next to which stabilizer to use, is how to embroider specialty fabrics. While most embroidery designs will sew out easily on a smooth fabric, if you’re sewing on a fabric that has a little texture or special features, there are several things you need to take into consideration. One concern is the texture of the fabric — for slightly textured fabrics such as a pique knit, you may only need to use a topping. But for others, you may need to adjust the design.

Embroidery on Knits

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If you hate waistbands, bandless waist garments may be your new favorite style. A bandless waist skirt, also known as a waistband-free skirt, is a style of skirt that does not have a separate or visible waistband. Instead, the waistline is created by folding and shaping the fabric itself, and the top edge is finished with a shaped facing or ribbon rather than a waistband. Also called faced or contour waists, this type of skirt offers a clean, streamlined look and can be a versatile addition to your wardrobe.

You can purchase patterns without waistbands, such as Vogue 1942 or 1683, or you can adjust your favorite skirt pattern to eliminate the waistband on a fitted pattern with darts.

In this article, we will be converting our traditional waistband finish to a bandless waist. The waist will be finished with scalloped-edge grosgrain ribbon that is turned to the inside. Be sure to read through the instructions before starting.

The grosgrain ribbon you purchase should have tiny, scalloped edges and needs to be 1″ in width. This type of ribbon is commonly known as Hatter’s ribbon and can be molded and shaped with an iron. Grosgrain ribbon with a straight edge cannot be molded and will not conform to the shape of the body.

Fabric Selection

Choose a fabric that is suitable for the desired style of the skirt. Consider factors such as drape, weight, and stretch, depending on the look you want to achieve.

Skirt Construction

Cut and construct your garment through the waistband step.

Step 1:  Before applying the grosgrain, make sure that the waist of the garment measures 1″ to 1 1/2″ larger than your waist.

Step 2: Sew an ease-line around the waist at 5/8″ to ease in the fullness to your waist size.

Step 3: Stabilize the waist by sewing a piece of twill tape to the waistline seam on the wrong side of the fabric. Trim 3/8″ away from raw edge at waistline.

Step 4: Shape grosgrain ribbon with an iron, stretching one outside edge slightly as you press. This will allow the ribbon to sit comfortably on your waist.

Step 5: Fold under raw end of ribbon 1/2″ — a conventional seam is not used here to eliminate bulk.

• Overlay the ribbon, folded edge out, onto the right side of the garment, matching fold of ribbon to the edge of the skirt opening and lining up the unstretched, lengthwise edge of the ribbon with the twill taped stitching line.
• Topstitch the ribbon into place all around the waist, sewing 1/8″ from the edge of the ribbon, very close to the twill tape stitching line.

Step 6: Fold back 1/2″ on the ribbon end to finish it when you reach the side opening. Turn ribbon to the inside of the garment. Place over tailor’s ham and press. Try on the skirt and feel the comfort. Stretching and molding the ribbon before sewing is the key.

~ This article was adapted and modified from an article by Sandra Betzina from Power Sewing that appeared in a previous issue of Notions.

Most sewers have fusible web in their arsenal of sewing tools, but in areas where you need only a teeny line of adhesive, check out fusible thread. Yes, thread that fuses. The fibers are activated by the heat of the iron, as they have a low melting point.

Fusible thread enables you to place a very thin line of adhesive exactly where you need to, without the mess of glue or trying to trim web narrowly. And, you can sew and serge with it to help get it where you need it. Do note, most fusible threads create only a temporary hold, until you sew permanently.

Name Game

Fusible threads are made by several different companies, and they look slightly different depending on the brand. Some are white, others clearer; some are tightly twisted, others not. Check your favorite sewing or quilting shop for these options: YLI Fusible Thread, Wonderfil Iron ‘n Fuse™, Gütermann Fusible Thread, Superior Charlotte’s Fusible Web and Floriani Press N Bond.

Fuse Use

Fusible thread can be used in the bobbin of a conventional sewing machine or in the lower looper of the serger, depending on the application, but always paired with regular thread. If you use it on a conventional machine, wind the bobbin slower than you would regular thread. Some brands of fusible thread can also be used through the eye of a large needle, but be sure to test-stitch to note any tension adjustments needed.

Fusible thread is always placed on the side of the fabric where fusing is needed for the final application, so note which side is up when stitching.

Fusible Applications

Non-sewing applications include placing a strand of fusible thread inside pleat folds to help create sharp edges. Or, add a thread inside a pant crease to maintain a perfect crease. A fusible thread strand is ideal for quickly “basting” a patch pocket in place for stitching.

If you’re applying narrow trims, fusible thread placed under the trim is just enough to hold it in place for stitching.

Matching plaids or stripes is easy peasy with fusible thread. Press under one seam allowance, position the fusible along the folded edge, overlap matching the design, and press. Then open out the seam allowances for regular thread stitching along the seamline. (Figure 1)

For garment sewing, fusible thread can be used in several ways. Use it for understitching—on the facing seam wrong side. After sewing, turn the facing to the inside and press the edge to melt the thread. Topstitch if desired.

When creating a narrow hem, such as at an armhole or on a ruffle, use the fusible thread in the serger lower looper. Position the fusible on the fabric wrong side, press the narrow hem in place, and stitch permanently using regular thread. This works for wider hems as well, as they stay in place for hand or machine finishing.

Do you have issues with zipper insertion, especially those centered applications? With fusible thread in the bobbin, sew a zigzag along the zipper tape edges so that the fusible is on the zipper right side. Center the zipper over the basted placket area and fuse in place. Add the permanent stitching with regular thread and voila—the zipper is perfectly centered without shifting. (Figure 2)

If you’re creating an appliqué, trace the shape onto the appliqué fabric right side. With fusible thread in the bobbin, sew around the appliqué shape. Trim very close to the stitching line, then fuse the appliqué in place on the base fabric. To finish it, use a decorative stitch or zigzag around the appliqué edge.

One advantage of using fusible thread for appliqué, as opposed to fusible web, is that only the outer edge is fused, not the entire shape. So, there’s less stiffness, and to reduce bulk, the area under the appliqué shape can easily be trimmed away if needed, or you can easily cut a slit in it to add stuffing for a dimensional look.

Quilters often use fusible thread for an easy binding application. Binding can be attached from back to front, or front to back. Stitch the binding to the quilt using regular thread. Then, use a zigzag with fusible thread in the bobbin to stitch the binding seam allowances together; the fusible should be on the unfinished side of the binding. Press the binding over the edge and fuse. To finish, topstitch or hand-stitch in place…no pins or clips needed to hold it securely in place while stitching. (Figure 3)

So, be sure that fusible thread stays close in your sewing room, as you’ll find all kinds of tasks to use it for!

~Linda Griepentrog is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and three dogs, Yohnuh, Abby, and Lizzie. Contact her at .