ASG Sewing Blog – Page 21

May 24, 2023

Online Class: Sleeve Mastery with Joi Mahon

Click here for ASG Member pricing of $40 (requires login)

June 10, 2023 | 1-4pm Central

Do you feel like sleeve fitting is a guessing game? Do patterns fit differently than in years past? Do you have forward tilting shoulders, narrow shoulders, a shorter front torso, a longer back armscye among other fitting challenges?

Our bodies are changing shape every day; and that means learning to recognize what is going on, embrace why it is happening, and learn how to modify our patterns for successful results without the common guessing game many sewists encounter.

Unlock the mystery of sleeve fitting in this three-hour Zoom class featuring a complete step-by-step system for understanding sleeves, fitting the pattern, and how they interact with the body for ease and comfort- workbook included. Designer Joi will be teaching her practical, common-sense approach with solutions for everyday fitting scenarios that address real figure types.

Learn with Us:

Learn how to understand arm & body variations.
Learn many common sleeve fitting problems and how to correct them.
Learn what constitutes good sleeve fit.
Learn to recognize three core sleeve fitting types. If you want a specific sleeve type but your pattern is different, then you will not achieve your desired style.
Learn how the sleeve should fit the arm and how it should interact with other parts of the garment.
Learn how to adjust the sleeve pattern with a bonus sleeve drafting mini lesson.
Learn about sleeve ease, adding a sleeve to a sleeveless garment, and other pattern tricks.
Learn as Joi features her exclusive Live Arm Demo and watch her armscye transform from one fit issue to another.
And more

Pre-submit sleeve questions and photos prior to the event by emailing them to .

What to Expect:

A three-hour live class session.
Downloadable PDF workbook for use with the class. This will be emailed to registered attendees from ASG approximately a week prior to the event.
Class will be recorded and available to registered participants for at least two weeks after the live event.
Live Q&A with the instructor. Joi will also stay after the session for an additional 30-minutes to continue answering questions.
Door prizes
Get the resources you need for sleeve success.

Can’t make it for the live event? Register and have access to the class for two additional weeks and watch at a time convenient for you!

About Joi Mahon

Joi Mahon is a fashion sewing entrepreneur who has been working as a sewing professional since age 15 when she landed a job working in a tailor’s shop. It was here where she cataloged her knowledge of fitting all shapes and styles. She credits this hands-on real-life experience at a young age to her success in sewing, fit, and pattern design. She studied Apparel Design, Merchandising, and Production and is known for her expertise in understanding how to make and fit patterns. Joi opened her design studio in 1999 where she works with custom clients, fashion-industry clients, and teaches live retreats in-studio and online.

Joi has been featured in Threads, Sew News, Sewing Professional, and other magazines as well as being a spokes-designer for Baby Lock and Mettler Thread. Joi has two Craftsy classes, Baby Lock classes, and is working on her fourth sewing book. Her studio, the Sewing Factory, is located in a 100+ year-old bank building in Sioux City, Iowa. Join her for in-studio retreats and check out her website www.designerjoi.com. Joi has an online subscription club with live weekly lessons called Perfect Pattern and Fit Club, along with free weekly lessons on Sewing Time Live at 1pm CST every Thursday on the Designer Joi Mahon Facebook page.

May 18, 2023

Drape and Shape a One-Hour Vest (Preview)

Vests are a popular garment for good reasons — they go many places and serve many purposes, from dressing-up an outfit for the holidays, to giving a skirt or pants a fresh look, to adding a colorful layer to a plain top, and to keeping you warm. With these simple drape-and-shape techniques, you can quickly make vests that flatter your figure and go anywhere, depending on the fabrics and embellishments.

Drape-and-shape construction has been the favored method for making clothes since people started wrapping themselves with animal hides and cloth. From caveman to couturiere, those who create garments know the best is achieved by draping-and-shaping the fabric on the wearer’s body (or on a form of his or her body). The vest uses a few of the simple drape-and-shape methods which means that anyone, regardless of their size or shape, can create gently fitted, graceful clothes. Fit the garments for how you want the final shape.

The vest in this project is long and flowing (Figure 1) and is designed for a medium-large figure (39-42″ bust and 41-44″ hip); however, it is easy to change in length or fullness to fit your particular figure.

The full article is in the Members area of the website. CLICK HERE to read the full article. Not a member? Join online!

May 12, 2023

Bobbin Storage

OK, raise your hand if your bobbin storage area looks like the photo below. Just what I thought…few hands in the air, and certainly not mine! Keeping these pesky little rounds handy and neat is an ongoing chore, but thankfully, there are some notions that can come to our rescue.

How you store your bobbins is a matter of personal choice—Do you like them safely attached to their matching thread spools, or tucked away separately with other like rounds? Either way, it’s possible to keep them neat and tidy.

Before you invest in a bobbin storage item of any kind, note the size of your bobbin, as some containers are specific to a size or bobbin type.

Separate Quarters

Little boxes with foam or molded inserts help to organize bobbins easily. See-through versions allow you to check out the contents without opening, and lids keep bobbins dust-free. Whether you have individual slots or long channels depends on the storage device.

Not into rectangles? Perhaps you’d like a donut instead. These pliable plastic containers allow for aligning bobbins around an open center space. Since they come in multiple colors, you can choose one for each machine you own.

Bobbin racks have wooden pegs that you can fill with your colorful rounds. Hang them on the wall or use a tabletop model, depending on your space. Or, put in a drawer to keep bobbins dust-free.

Some bobbin racks have flexible plastic snap-on holders that can be stacked.

Plastic storage tubes are yet another idea to keep bobbins organized and dust free. They’re also handy for toting to class when you just need a few for you planned projects.

If your machine has metal bobbins, there’s the option of a magnetic bobbin holder to keep them in place.

Togetherness

If you prefer to keep your thread spools and matching bobbins together, there are a host of options for this neatness. Some devices snap onto the top of the thread spools, while others push into the top hole in the spool.

60 Pieces Bobbin Holder Thread Spool Holder Stack Bobbins on Spool Tops

DIY Options

If you’re sew inclined, there are many ideas for creating your own bobbin storage device.

Empty pill bottles are ideal for dust-free bobbin storage and the clear ones let you see what’s inside. Just be sure to check the size of your bobbins to be sure they fit inside.

Pick up a multi-day medicine dispenser with mini-compartments perfectly sized to fit your bobbins.

Foam toe separators are a quirky option for bobbin storage, but handy if you just need to take a few with you to a class. The foam also keeps the thread ends in place.

For storing bobbins with thread spools, simply wrap a rubber band around the spool and around the matching bobbin.

A paper clip can be inserted into the top of a thread spool and through a matching bobbin for inexpensive togetherness. A pipe cleaner can be used in the same manner.

Visit your office supply store for a large metal ring that opens—simply thread the bobbins onto the ring for organized storage.

Wrapping Up

Bobbin Holders for Thread Spool Sewing Bobbin Small Clips Sewing Tool Accessory Clear Thread Clips Holder Tool

No matter how you store your bobbins, there’s always the issue of thread ends. But taming them is easy if you just get one of small wrap clamps available. Clip it over the bobbin thread for neat-as-a-pin storage.

Or, for a DIY option, get some small clear tubing from the hardware store and slice down one side. Cut it into length that fits your bobbin thread height, then snap in place around the loose thread end. {photo}

No matter how you store them, there’s always a cat or dog willing to unroll your bobbins at the most inopportune time, it seems.

~Linda Griepentrog is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and three dogs, Yohnuh, Abby, and Lizzie. Contact her at .

May 5, 2023

The Humble Seam Ripper

Much as we hate to admit it, we all make mistakes, and sometimes those are stitching-related. But, luckily there’s a tool for that—the humble seam ripper.

Seam rippers come in many styles and shapes, but they all function in a similar way to remove errant stitches so we can fix whatever caused the error in the first place.

Anatomy of a Ripper

All seam rippers have blades of some sort for cutting, and they all have handles. Most rippers also come with a safety cap to protect not only the blade, but humans, when the tool is not in use.

Handles come in all shapes, sizes, and materials, so it’s a matter of finding one that fits your hand comfortably. Look for plastic, wood, or metal handles. Some rippers are flat on one side to prevent the tool from rolling on the table, others offer loops for hanging on a ribbon or cord. It’s a good idea to test out the “feel” of a ripper before purchasing it—is it comfortable in your hand?

Safety caps help protect the delicate ripper blade from nicks, moisture, and inadvertent drops to the floor. Some caps are attached to the tool for easy storing while others are separate.

If you’re ripping something out at night, and/or it’s a dark thread on a dark fabric, a built-in light is helpful for greater visibility. Look for this battery-powered accoutrement to help save your eyesight. Another helpful addition is a magnifier, especially if you have vision issues. A light and a magnifier together help get the blade to the right place in the stitching line.

Lighted, magnifiying seam ripper — Dritz Magnified LED Seam Ripper available on Amazon.

Sometimes rippers are combined with other tools, like tiny scissor blades, a stiletto or a needle threader on the opposite end of the ripping blade, so you get two tools in one device.

Hand-turned seam ripper and stilettos — Hand-turned wooden handle seam ripper/stiletto combination created by the author’s husband

But, probably the most important feature of a seam ripper is the blade that’s doing all the work. Look for rippers with a flat metal blade that look like a surgical scalpel—either curved or straight and with either permanent or replaceable blades. Another blade option is a U-shaped blade with a small plastic ball on one section of the point (to protect the fabric). The longer point extends beyond the shorter one to help guide the fabric as you rip. A third blade type is retractable, pulling itself into the handle with a slide lock. This adds a safety feature, especially if you have children near your sewing tools.

Slice Safety Seam Ripper with manual retraction, available on Amazon.

Using a ripper

There are multiple ways to use a seam ripper, but of course the ultimate goal is to remove the wayward stitching without harming the fabric. It’s easy to accidentally tear the fabric with the sharp point of a ripper, forcing another creative option for repair.

One common way to use a ripper is to slide the blade under a stitch at regular intervals, popping the thread. Cut every 3-4 stitches, pull out threads, and repeat along the length needed. Once you have removed all the threads, press the area to help remove the needle holes.

Accidentally made a hole in your fabric with a seam ripper? Restitch the seam just inside the previous stitching line to avoid any visible holes.

You can also use the seam ripper point to pick out the seam stitch by stitch.

Perhaps the fastest way to rip, but the riskiest, is to hold open the seam and slice down the stitches with the ripper blade. It’s hard for one person to do this, so use a “third hand” tool or get a sewing buddy to help you hold the seam open.

If you need to remove serger stitches, simply slide the ripper blade under the looper stitches and move it along the edge.

April 28, 2023

Sewing Reversible Clothing

Sewing reversible garments is a practical idea and can be a fun and creative way to add versatility to your wardrobe. They can also help you to save space in your suitcase when traveling.

Making Choices

Coats and jackets are logical choices, letting the collars and rolled back cuffs show off the contrast fabric. Vests are also easy to do in two different fabrics. Simple dresses, tops, and skirts are perfect for summer. Skirts can be wrap-style or have a shared elastic waist. Look for patterns that are made to be reversible; however, if you can’t find a “reversible” pattern, look for one with simple style, minimal seams and details, and try to avoid anything with complicated details.

When choosing fabric, shop for ones with a similar weight, drape, and stretch for both sides. Choose fabrics that are not too bulky or stiff as this can make the garment uncomfortable to wear or difficult to sew. Drape both fabrics over your hand to feel the weight and make sure it won’t be uncomfortable to wear. As an alternative to two solid colors, try a solid with a print, or even two compatible prints for an especially interesting look. You could also choose fabrics that have different textures or prints on each side to add interest to your garment.

Cutting & Techniques

Cut both layers exactly alike and unless your pattern is specifically made to be reversible, trim hems to 5/8.” Do any embellishing, and add details such as pockets, prior to construction. Depending on the weight of the fabric and fit of the pattern, you may need to add a little to the seams.

Plan your construction carefully to ensure that your seams and finishing techniques work for both sides of the garment. It helps to consider which side you want to be the primary side and work from there.

You’ll need to use techniques that allow the garment to look good on both sides. For example, French seams or flat-felled seams are great for joining two layers of fabric without any exposed raw edges. You could also use bias binding or facing to finish off the edges.

Construction

Cheri’s Reversible Jacket – SafT Pockets

To accomplish the reversibility, select one of two methods of construction: right sides together and turned inside out, or wrong sides together and bound on the edges.

For the first, sew layers together, being very accurate in aligning raw edges. Leave an opening of about 8″ in the middle of one side seam or along the bottom back hem. Trim and grade seam allowances to eliminate bulk between the layers. Reach up and pull everything through the opening to right side, and then press carefully. Slipstitch the opening and topstitch all around for crisp, even edges.

For the second method of construction, join the two layers with wrong sides together, carefully matching raw edges. Finish inside seams with any technique that looks neat on both sides, such as flat fell or French. Trim away seam allowances on the outside edges and hems, baste together, and finish all around with bias binding or fold over braid. For casual styles, decorative serging is another option.

If they work for you and your pattern, add soft shoulder pads that can flip in either direction, tacking them between layers. Instead of buttonholes, consider button and loop closures, using different buttons.

If you are making a reversible jacket or coat, consider using reversible zippers or buttons to make it easy to wear the garment inside out. These zippers or buttons are designed to work on both sides of the garment, making it easy to switch between the two.

Overall, sewing reversible garments can be a fun and rewarding project. With the right fabric, stitches, and techniques, you can create a versatile and stylish piece that you can wear in multiple ways, and on multiple days!