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August 19, 2022

Sewing Swimwear: The Details (preview)

Sew a swimsuit in August? Of course! It’s still swimsuit season in many locations; however, a recent visit to a new gym with an indoor pool was a good reminder that aquatics classes are becoming more popular. This is  especially true when they have titles like Aqua Fitness and Aqua Arthritis Movement.

For those who have tried on a swimsuit in a brightly LED-lit fitting room with what surely is a funhouse mirror, it’s easy to turn your back, remove the offending garment, and make the snap decision to make your own suit. If this sounds like you, rest assured you can make a well-fitting suit that dips, curves, minimizes — and maybe even hides — some areas in about half a day.

Pattern

In the “good old days,” Kwik-Sew and Stretch & Sew were the go-to companies for great results. You may still be able to find some of these patterns online but the choices are still endless when it comes to available swimsuit patterns and an online search will yield many results to choose from. A few things to note when choosing patterns:

  • If you’re looking to hide certain areas, shirred or gathered details flatter and hide wherever they are.
  • Neckline ruffles will draw the eye up and away from the hips.
  • Bias cut stripes will slenderize the figure.

To learn more about sewing swimwear, including choosing fabric and patterns, which elastic to use, lining, fitting, sewing tips, and more, the complete version of this article is available on the ASG Members Only blog and requires member login.
CLICK HERE to read the full article. Not a member? Join online!

Tagged With: bathing suits, swimsuits

August 12, 2022

Triple Straight Stitch

Often overlooked because the machine icon doesn’t really look like the actual stitch, the triple straight stitch is a fun one, both for utility use and for embellishments. Depending on the machine brand, the stitch may also be called a straight stretch stitch or a backstitch.

On the stitch screen or dial, it appears as three rows of straight stitching side by side. But in fact, that’s not how it sews out. Instead, it’s really three stitches on top of each other with the needle penetrating the same hole at each end of the stitch. Whether your machine sews it as two stitches forward and one back, or one stitch forward, one stitch back and another stitch forward depends on the brand, but the look is the same—a bold straight stitch.

Triple straight stitch on the machine

What’s it for?

Because the machine is sewing back and forth to create this stitch, there is some inherent stretch built into it. It’s great for sewing seams or hems in knit fabrics to maintain flexibility without popping stitches, as often happens with just a regular straight stitch. And ideal as well for use on leggings or swimwear where stretch is needed for fit.

It’s also perfect for use where there is extra reinforcement needed, like on tote bag handles, pant crotches, armhole seams, etc. Outdoor gear is another perfect place to utilize this stitch. It’s essentially three times as strong as an ordinary straight stitch.

Because the stitches are sewn on top of each other, it still allows you to press a seam allowance open and flat.

With the backward and forward motion of the machine as it sews out this stitch, it’s a good idea to slow your sewing speed, using either the speed regulator or a lighter touch on the foot pedal.

Beyond the Basics

Even though its intended purpose is for utility use, this stitch can take on a totally new persona when used decoratively.

Like most machine stitches, you can vary the look by changing the stitch length. While the default length might be ideal for sturdy seam sewing, lengthening it makes it ideal for other uses.

The triple straight stitch is ideal for topstitching. You can sew a well-defined and prominent line of stitches to accent a seam, garment edge or outline an appliqué. Because you’re getting three stitches on top of each other, the stitching line appears heavy without having to invest in a heavy weight or novelty thread and a specialty needle. You can simply sew with the same thread you used to construct the garment, or a contrast.

You can even sew this stitch with metallic thread. Or, use a shiny rayon or polyester embroidery thread for a bit of extra sheen. Opt for a variegated thread for an even more interesting look.

When used on denim, the triple straight stitch can mimic the topstitching found on ready-to-wear jeans.

Topstitching on jeans

In addition to topstitching, the stitch can be used to create designs on its own—from free-flowing curves to a precise grid, as shown in the photos below.

When used with white thread on a dark background, this stitch can look similar to Sashiko stitching. It’s also ideal for quilting, whether following the design in a printed fabric for accent or sewing in channels or grids. It can also be used as an outline for pieced motifs, as shown in the next image.

One note of caution: Because the fabric moves forward and backward as it forms this stitch, stick to gentle curves as opposed to tight curves which are harder to control.

And, there’s more…

You can sew the triple straight stitch with a double needle to create perfectly aligned stitch lines, or with a wing needle to leave tiny holes often used by heirloom sewers as accents and for attaching other trims. In both instances, it’s a good idea to sew slower than normal for consistent stitching.

If you add width to this stitch, you get an entirely different stitch—a triple zigzag—which is great for embellishing as well, as the three threads make the stitch much more prominent than a simple zigzag.

Think you might need a little play time with this great stitch?


~Linda Griepentrog
Linda is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and two dogs, Yohnuh and Abby. Contact her at .

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Tagged With: learn to sew, sewing machine, stitches, triple stitch

August 10, 2022

What I’m Sewing: Sinclair Patterns Bondi 22

ASG Member, Kim Caywood, shares her experience making the Bondi 22 Knit Classic Fitted T-shirt from Sinclair Patterns:

Sinclair Patterns Bondi 22 Knit Classic Fitted T-shirt
Sinclair Patterns Bondi Knit Classic Fitted T-shirt pattern link

Q: Item Created 
A. Top

Q. Independent Pattern Designer
A.
Sinclair Patterns

Q. Name and Number of Pattern
A.
Bondi 22

Q. Fabric Used:
A. Double Brushed Poly

Q. Special Embellishments/Notions Used
A. None

Q. Skill level required?
A.
Confident Beginner

Q. Are the instructions easy to follow?
A.
As with all Sinclair patterns the instructions are easy to follow with well written text and photos to match. There are step by step instructions.

Q. Are you pleased with the finished result? Did it meet your expectations?
A.
This top more than meets my expectations! I have made several tops with this pattern because it’s such a simple pattern to make

Q. Did it look like the picture?
A.
Yes it looks just like the picture

Q. Did you make any modifications in the pattern?
A.
No modifications were made to the pattern. They also offer two sleeve add-on patterns. One is puffed sleeves and the other is flared.

Q. Are there any changes you would have made?
A. This pattern is great just the way it is.

Q. Did the pattern teach you any unique or special techniques?
A.
I learned how to make a V-neck.

Q. Would you make this again?
A.
Most definitely

Q. Would you recommend this pattern to others?
A.
Yes I would. I have found Sinclair Patterns to have the best fit. They offer all their patterns in Petite, Regular and Tall.

Editors Note: This pattern comes in in sizes up to a 4X


~Kim Caywood, ASG member

Tagged With: patterns, t-shirt

August 8, 2022

ASG Fashion Show 2022 – San Antonio

August 5, 2022

Project: A Summer Hammock (preview)

Relax in your backyard with a book, enjoy a cup of coffee on the porch, or swing peacefully as you bond with nature at your favorite campsite in a colorful, decorative hammock. It’s said that hammocks guarantee an amazing sleep experience, whether it’s an afternoon nap, or a full night’s rest. Simple to sew, this hammock is made using decorator fabric for the hammock front and is lined with sturdy canvas. Closet-pole rods and nylon rope support the hammock.

Making the Hammock

 

The complete version of this article is available on the ASG Members Only blog and requires member login.
CLICK HERE to read the full article. Not a member? Join online!

Tagged With: canvas, hammock, sewing project

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