ASG Sewing Blog

March 7, 2025

Online Fabric Shopping

Resources and Practical Suggestions

Once upon a time, sewers (the word sewist was not yet in usage) who wanted to create a new garment or other sewn item would get in the car and drive to their nearby fabric store. I have been sewing long enough to remember fabric shopping in a robust fabric section in a popular department store.

While some may be fortunate to still have brick and mortar stores near them, sometimes the only option is to buy fabric online. The most obvious drawback to online fabric shopping is the inability to touch the fabric. Other problems are diﬀerences in color in real life compared to what it looks like on your computer monitor, as well as shipping costs and waiting for fabric to arrive. So what’s the modern day sewist to do?

Just like any business, the most important criteria for choosing a store is reputation. Look for stores that are mentioned often by sewists on Instagram or by those you know personally.

PatternReview.com is an unbiased gathering of opinions from sewists on many sewing topics. You’ll probably find reviews of any online store you are interested in ordering from.

Another important feature of the best online shops is the description and pictures of the fabric. Many give advice on the weight, opacity and suitability. The best pictures show the fabric draped in some way, not just a flat photo.

Many online stores will send swatches, either free or for a small cost, if you can manage to be patient or you’re not in a big hurry. This is especially important when ordering expensive fabric or a large amount. For example, you can earn Swatch Points at Mood Fabrics from previous purchases.

Finally, your own experience will inform your opinions. It’s probably best to order small when trying out a new store to test the accuracy of their descriptions and photos. Once you are happy with the quality of the product, you can feel confident in ordering more. No doubt, you will have some disappointments – the fabric may not work for what you had planned because of weight, color or suitability. This is a good opportunity to think creatively to see if it might work for another project.

With a little patience and curiosity, shopping for fabric online can be like walking into a vast and exciting store where nearly anything is available!

Resources

Article from Core Fabrics about GSM weight and how this number can help make informed decisions when ordering online
Article from Love Notions (a digital pattern company) about online fabric stores, with recommendations
List of Online Apparel Fabric and Trim Sources
Online Fabric and Notions Sources – sign up to view the list at Tomkat Stitchery

Stores listing GSM or ounces in their descriptions:

Blackbird Fabrics
Blue Moon Fabrics
Fabric.com (affiliate link)
Fabric Wholesale Direct
Gorgeous Fabrics (also has videos showing how a fabric moves and drapes)
Hobby Fabric Store
Mood Fabrics (can buy swatches and earn swatches with purchases)
Stone Mountain Fabrics
Surge Fabric Shop (they have Cupro double knit)
Tessuti
The Fabric Store Online

Stores with good descriptions:

Fabric Mart Fabrics
Fashion Fabrics Club (GSM for denim is listed)
Finch Fabrics
Mendel-Goldberg Fabrics
Metro Textiles NYC
Minerva (GSM for denim is listed)

The retailers mentioned are independently owned and operated. We provide recommendations for informational purposes only and do not endorse or take responsibility for the products, services, or policies of these businesses. Please contact the retailer directly for any questions or concerns.

~Cecelia Harris, Pikes Peak Chapter, ASG

February 28, 2025

Denim Delight: Jean Jacket

Who doesn’t love denim—whether it’s well-worn and oh-so-comfy jeans, or a great blue jean jacket? Denim ebbs and flows in the fashion world but continues to be a classic wardrobe staple for year-round wear. There’s something wonderful about denim jackets specifically that make it easy to just throw it on and know it’s good to go almost anywhere.

Sustainability

Denim is a sturdy fabric and can often outlast the wearer. Originally worn by wranglers and cowboys in the wild West, today’s denim jackets are mainstream for everyone from kids to seniors. You can craft your own jacket or head to a local thrift store to find one that’s already gently broken in already, pre-shrunk, and ready for you to add your creative touches.

Enhancement Ideas

Some jackets are well worn and may show it, so creativity is limitless in either showcasing or camouflaging any flaws. If a little mending is needed to stabilize a worn spot, add a piece of fusible interfacing to the underside to hold loose threads in place, then use a contrasting 12-weight thread to sew some big stitches across the area. This is not only decorative but also holds the worn area in place and keeps it from getting any larger.

Holes and tears in denim jackets are all the rage, but if that look isn’t to your liking, add a bold fabric under the opening, use a contrasting 12-weight thread to outline the hole with big stitches. Frayed edges are up to you—like them or trim them—depending on your taste.

Purposeful fabric patches can add a hint of color to the bluest of blues. One option is a simple calico rectangle on the back yoke:

Or you may fancy a vintage fabric square on a sleeve:

Or an orphaned quilt block on the jacket back:

Patches can be put on invisibly with tiny hand stitches, machine sewn, or accented with hand stitching in matching or contrasting thread colors.

Adorning Your Jacket

Beautify the front of any denim jacket by adding color to the button/rivet or buttonhole area. Small bits of a variety of colored fabrics make a perfect accent. Even more so, if you add some bold hand stitching. Running stitches, cross stitches or random stitch rows are perfect embellishments to hold the little patches in place, though you also probably want to needle-turn the edges to finish.

These front patches can wrap around the band edge as well or simply end at the fold.

Step-by-Step

If you need to dress up a denim jacket, consider adding a bold fashion print to some areas. The existing seaming in a denim jacket defines individual sections, perfect for fabric additions.

Sewing teacher Jane Foster from Walnut Creek not only embellished her jacket with fabric she designed herself, but she actually cut the fabric to fit the garment back, undercollar, flaps and cuffs.

To do this, lay the jacket flat on a piece of paper large enough to fit the area you want to cover, then poke pins straight through along the edges of the designated area. The pins will leave holes in the paper once you remove the garment. Roughly connect the pin holes, add a ½” seam allowance all around, then cut out the paper pattern. Use the pattern to cut the fashion fabric.
If you want to center a motif on a section, fussy-cut the piece with the proper design placement.
Pin the fabric in place on the garment right side so that it lies perfectly flat, then needle-turn the edges under and stitch in place.
Another option is to add fusible web behind the fabric accent section and fuse it to the jacket. You can leave the edges raw (and fused) or leave a ¼” turn-under along the edges, then hand-stitch in place.

For another dressy idea, follow Jane’s student Nanette Saabcrowell’s idea and use a beautiful scarf on the back of a white jacket denim.

So, whether you choose blue, black, white or a colored denim jacket, the sky’s the limit for embellishing potential. Just put your creative mojo in gear and make a plan.

~Linda Griepentrog is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and three dogs, Yohnuh, Abby, and Lizzie. Contact her at .

February 21, 2025

Life as a Fabricholic

I’m happy to share with you that I am indeed a fabricholic. My husband claims that we have an inventory control problem. He means that the fabric comes into our house faster than it becomes something and goes out. And (my husband says) I also live under the delusion that fabric instantly becomes a project or a garment-without any labor on my part. In fact, I often buy fabric to go with things that I have, like shoes and jewelry. Unfortunately, the shoes wear out while the fabric still sits there waiting to become something.

Fabricholism manifests itself in a variety of symptoms. You don’t need to raise your hands or openly confess… but think about your answers to these questions!

Do you purchase fabric whether you need it or not?
Do you have more fabric than you could comfortably sew in __ ? A week? A month? A lifetime?
Have you ever said “I’m not going to purchase any more fabric until I sew up what I have”?
Do you have fabric under the bed? In closets? Under garments that are hanging on hangers in your closet?
Do you have patterns that you’ve never used?
Have you ever purchased any patterns for your daughter… who now has a granddaughter?
Did you ever buy more fabric than you intended when you went to a fabric store?
Have you ever refused to purchase a ready-to-wear garment because you thought you could make it cheaper and better?

But, I NEED it!

As a fabricholic, I can offer many rationalizations for buying fabric.

Buying fabric is hedging against inflation. You know that the price can only go up.
If I don’t get it, somebody else will.
Stuff always looks better on the cutting table than it does on the bolt.
Buying fabric is cheaper than psychotherapy. It’s not immoral, it’s not illegal, and it’s not fattening. Fabric has no calories!
I don’t have any other bad habits. I don’t drink; I don’t smoke; and the question of whether or not I overeat depends on what I’m wearing on any given day.
Buying fabric is environmentally safe and proven to be helpful to the recycling industry.
Fabric has good insulating properties.
I view collecting fabric as an historical thing, like charm bracelets or postcards. I have traveled extensively and have always tried to buy a piece of fabric in each city. When I get home, I can sit on the floor of my sewing room, look in my closet, and bring back memories. It’s like scrapbooking in a different form.
From my mother I inherited the idea that if you keep something long enough, it comes back in style. Vintage fabric happens to be “in” and depending on your age, vintage fabric makes its own definition.
Buying fabric gives you a sense of social responsibility because you are actually keeping people employed at those stores.
Fabric is easy to care for. It doesn’t require refrigeration. You don’t have to cook it, feed it, water it, wipe it, or walk it. It’s low maintenance compared to other things you might have around the house (commence staring at your children).
If it’s on sale, that’s a good clue that you should have it.
Your friends made you buy it.
It’s good when you think of yourself as being worth this purchase—it reinforces your ego.
If you move frequently, fabric can become good packing material.
Everything in the fabric store fits you.
And my favorite: “God wants me to have this!” How do I know that? Because I looked at it a few days ago and it’s still here. And there was a parking space right in front of the store.

You have to decide if you are going to feel guilty about this whole scenario or just go with the flow and say “I am a fabric collector.” There are people who collect stamps; there are people who collect coins. You collect fabric for what it is. You don’t have to have an intended use.

Being a fabricholic is not a bad thing. We all have wonderful friends who share our passion and it adds a lot of enjoyment to our lives. Recognize that collecting fabric and sewing fabric should be considered two separate activities. Sometimes they’re not even related!

February 14, 2025

Car Bling: Sewing License Plates

Sewing enthusiasts can often be seen wearing testaments to our hobby—sewing-themed T-shirts and sweatshirts and carrying themed totes—just letting the world know of our passion. But in addition to wearables, some go further by embellishing their vehicles—with window stickers, bumper stickers, and even vanity license plates.

Vanity plates are always fun to figure out, especially if you only have a minute or two when you’re stopped behind someone at a traffic light. It’s an “aha” moment when you figure it out before the light changes and you speed off, as it’s sometimes hard to decipher those plates at 60mph. Ask me how I know…

If you’re thinking about getting a personalized license plate, be sure to check with your state department of motor vehicles for the rules before you begin to rack your brain for a phrase that’s allowable, fits the parameters, and most importantly, isn’t already taken. State rules vary considerably and you may be limited to six, seven or, if you’re lucky, eight letters and/or spaces to get your message across. Some states allow punctuation to be included, others don’t, and some allow special symbols like hearts to be part of the tag.

Check With Your State

Each state has certain words and phrases that are disallowed, as they can connote other meanings, refer to body parts, sex, drugs, or are known as swear words. States try to keep up on the latest slang so as not to let offensive combos onto the metal. So be sure to check that list first so you’re not disappointed when you come up with something you think is wonderful that might be misconstrued. If your favorite phrase is already taken, consider if there’s a way you can modify it to come up with a new variation. For example, if ISEW is already in use, consider adding a number or other letters or punctuation to make it new—like ISEW2 or I SEW IT; SEW FUN can become SEW FUN2 or SEW FUN!.

Also check your state regs for the use of numbers within the phrase, as often digits can take the place of whole words or be combined with letters to help fit words within the number of letters allowed. For example, GR8 takes the place of GREAT, but it’s still pronounced the same as if all the letters were used. The number two can denote to, two or too in a chosen phrase. Single letters can also rise to the occasion to sub for words—think of U, B, C, O and Y, subbing for you, be, see or sea, oh, and why, respectively.

So, what kind of sewing specialty license plate do you want? Here are a few ideas, and by no means a complete list, depending on the number of letters and spaces allowed in your state:

Idea Bank

♥♥SEW♥♥
♥2SEW
I ALTER
BOBBINS
CRAFTER
DUDESEW
FABRIC
FABRIC2
I B ASG
I MEND
I QUILT
I SEW
IBSEWN
IM ASG
IMSEWGR8
INSPIRE
ISEW4U

ITSSEWU
LIV2SEW
LUV2SEW
MAKER
MANSEW
MESEW
OH DARN
OH I SEW
PIECER
QUILT NUT
QUILTER
SCRAPPY
SEW BATTY
SEW BUSY
SEW COOL
SEW COZY
SEW EZ

SEW FUN
SEW HOT
SEW IT
SEW MAN
SEW NUT
SEW RITE
SEW SASS
SEW SMRT
SEW WHAT
SEW’N’GO
SEW’N’GRL
SEWBZY
SEWCOOL
SEWCR8V
SEWDIVA
SEWDOI
SEWER

SEWGR8
SEWGR8
SEWHAUTE
SEWING
SEWIST
SEWITUP
SEWLUV
SEWN ♥
SEWNUP
SEWRETRO
STASHER
STITCHER
USEW2?
USEWGRL
WHOSEWS
Y I SEW

Frame-ups

If paying a premium for a vanity plate isn’t in your budget, consider a sewing-themed license plate frame. Check with your state for any regulations regarding frame size and coverage before purchasing.

These plate frames are available on Amazon. Click each image to view. Note that we may receive a small commission if you make a purchase.

Whether you get a whimsical vanity plate or a more low-key messaging frame, it’s always fun to tell the world you sew and you’re proud of it!

February 7, 2025

The Allure of Batik

Batik is a wax-resist dyeing technique that uses wax and dye to create stunning designs on fabric that are both artistic and symbolic. The process is similar to silk painting. The word “batik” comes from the Javanese words amba which means wide, and titik which means create dots to form lines.

The art of batik dates back over two thousand years, with evidence of its practice found in the Far East, Middle East, Central Asia, and India. However, it flourished in Indonesia, particularly on the island of Java, where artisans developed highly intricate designs with deep cultural significance. Traditional Javanese batik often features motifs representing nature, spirituality, and social status. The method spread globally through trade and colonization, influencing textile traditions worldwide.

Batik is recognized by UNESCO as an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity and remains an important cultural craft in Indonesia and other parts of the world, with both hand-drawn (batik tulis) and stamped (batik cap) techniques still in use. Today, batik is widely used in quilting, garment-making, and home decor projects. However, working with batik fabric requires special considerations due to its unique manufacturing process.

A Fabric to Love

Most modern batiks are usually printed on cotton and silk but can also be found on rayons. The modern method uses a large block with an intricate wire pattern that is dipped in wax and then stamped on the cloth before dying. Most of what we currently see on the market also feature a wide array of colors, although the traditional blues, browns, and oranges are big sellers.

One-of-a-kind designs – No two projects made from batiks will ever look alike because of its unique creation process, so exclusivity is assured.
Global influence –Batiks feature an ethnic flair with a strong following in the fashion world.
Timeless appeal – Batik prints are not dated by season and are suitable for year-round wear.
Versatile applications – Batiks remind many of the tropics, which makes them a popular style for wrap skirts, sundresses, and beach cover-ups, as well as pillows, throws, and summery home-decor accents.
Quilting magic – Quilters love batiks because their colors naturally blend with many other styles. Unusual effects can be created by cutting them randomly, and they add unique textures without having to use traditional florals or solids.

Whether used in fashion, quilting, or home decor, batiks continue to enchant with their artistry, heritage, and endless creative possibilities.

Sewing Tips for Batik Fabric

Due to the wax-resist dyeing process, batik fabric has unique qualities that require special handling when sewing. Here are some essential tips:

Prewash the Fabric – Batik fabric often retains excess dye. To prevent color bleeding, it’s usually recommended to wash in cold water with a mild soap before sewing.
Use Sharp Needles – Batik is tightly woven, which can make it more challenging to sew. Use a sharp microtex or universal needle (size 70/10 or 80/12) for best results.
Choose the Right Thread – A high-quality 50 or 60 weight cotton or polyester thread works best for durability and strength.
Mind the Fraying – The tight weave reduces fraying, but if needed, use pinking shears or a serger to finish raw edges.
Consider the right side: The wax that creates the design sinks into the fabric, so both sides may look similar. You can look for the side with less blurring around the design.
Combine batiks with solids: You can combine batiks with solid fabrics to give the batiks more space to shine.
Pattern Matching – If using batik with distinct motifs, take extra care in cutting to ensure symmetrical and visually appealing pattern placement.

Caring for Batik Creations

Proper care will keep your batik projects looking vibrant and fresh for years:

Always Wash in Cold Water – Once you’ve completed your project, make sure to always use cold water and a mild detergent to prevent fading.
Avoid Harsh Chemicals – Bleach and strong detergents can break down the fabric’s colors and fibers.
Hand Wash When Possible – While machine washing on a gentle cycle is acceptable, hand washing is preferred to maintain fabric integrity. Avoid twisting or wringing the fabric.
Air Dry – Hang or lay flat to dry in the shade, as direct sunlight can cause fading.
Storage – Store in a cool, dark place to prevent fading and damage.
Iron with Caution – Use a low to medium heat setting and avoid steam. Use a thin cotton cloth between the iron and the fabric.

SewBatik has an excellent article on caring for your batiks, including suggestions for specific soaps and when to use and when to not use them.

Batik fabric is a joy to sew with, offering a blend of artistic expression and historical richness. While it requires some extra care, the results are well worth the effort. Whether you’re quilting, making garments, or creating home decor, batik adds a timeless and beautiful touch to any project. With proper sewing techniques and care, your batik creations can become cherished heirlooms that celebrate tradition and craftsmanship.