February 16, 2022

What I’m Sewing: Silhouette Patterns #3400

ASG member, Carolyn Meyers, recently created a pair of yoga pants using a pattern from Silhouette Patterns and shared her experience working with the pattern:

Q. Item Created
A. Yoga Pants

Q. Independent Pattern Designer
A. Peggy Sagers

Q. Name and Number of Pattern
A. Silhouette #3400

Q. Fabric Used:
A. Ponte knit

Q. Special Embellishments/Notions Used
A. n/a

Q. Skill level required?
A. Beginner-Intermediate

Q. Are the instructions easy to follow?
A. Yes, but I recommend watching the YouTube video for the pattern before you start, just to get a feel for the project.

Q. Are you pleased with the finished result? Did it meet your expectations?
A. Absolutely, I have now made three pair and having made a few fitting tweaks am ready to commit my pattern to permanent pattern material.

Q. Did it look like the picture?
A. Absolutely.

Q. Did you make any modifications in the pattern?
A. Just fit to my size. I’m short so some “petit-ing” is always required.

Q. Are there any changes you would have made?
A. No

Q. Did the pattern teach you any unique or special techniques?
A. No, but it helped me bond with my serger.

Q. Would you make this again?
A. Again and again. I found three more pieces of Ponte knit in my stash that will be just perfect for these pants.

Q. Would you recommend this pattern to others?
A. Yes! I was sew excited to make my first pair, slip them on, and they fit and felt wonderful. The only tweak I had to make was to slim the leg a bit and shorten the length. Not bad.

Pattern Link: https://silhouettepatterns.com

~Carolyn Meyers

February 11, 2022

Moving the Dart to Create a Princess Line

If good fit is important to you, especially when sewing with woven fabrics, you already know the significance of a properly placed and well-fitting bust dart. Darts shape that two-dimensional fabric to fit around your three-dimensional body. Even for the less-endowed figure, when darts are the correct size and pointed to the correct location, they can add shape and flatter your frame.

When they are incorporated into special design lines, darts also have wonderful attributes beyond fitting and shaping. Fashion designers have always known and utilized these skills for creating different styles with special design lines. For your own design explorations, here are some guidelines for moving the standard side seam bust-fitting dart and converting it into the always flattering princess line. This design line can originate from the shoulder line or from the armscye—that choice is yours.

When the princess design line extends from the shoulder line, it creates a vertical line which gives more visual height to the wearer. It is the easiest version to sew. When it comes from the armscye, the tighter the armscye curve, the more challenging those curved seams can be to stitch together particularly for the full-busted figure. However, the closer the starting point is to the shoulder point, the easier it will be to sew.

Basic Dart Fit

Princess lines flatter most figure shapes. However, they can end up being ill-fitting and unsightly if your bust dart is not the correct width for your cup size and is not aimed toward your apex. If the original bodice sloper doesn’t conform properly to your apex contours, then the curvature of the princess line could ride above or below your actual apex level, creating a poor fit. When you begin with a pattern that is fit exclusively to your body contours, where the side bust-fitting dart is the correct shape and is pointed toward your apex, you can rest assured that the resulting princess line fashion detail will also fit as it should and be flattering on your body.

Make sure you have the correct size dart for the fullness of your bust and that the dart is pointing toward your apex. Sure-Fit Designs offers an Adjust-A-Bust template with A through E-cup dart sizes. This template is found within the Sure-Fit Designs Dress Kit. If you’re full busted, this solves the problem for the traditional FBA (full bust adjustment).

Creating the Shoulder Princess Seam

Now, let’s begin to move that dart.

1. Beginning at the top and bottom legs of the side seam dart, draw a designer’s dart, which is one that extends to the apex cross mark. The tip of this dart, which is now at your apex, will become a pivot point.

2. Stabilize the apex with a piece of clear plastic tape. Then, cut on the designer’s dart lines to remove this dart.

3. Approximately mid-shoulder, mark a point where the princess detail will begin. Draw a straight line from this point to your apex marking. Continue this line down through the center of the waist-fitting dart. Mark X’s above and below the apex which will become the princess seam matching notches. Cut on this line down to the apex only.

4. Close the original side-fitting bust dart, allowing the pattern to pivot at the apex hinge. Tape original side seam dart in this closed position.

5. Continue cutting from the apex down through the waist-fitting dart. Separate the Center Front panel from the Side Front panel. Add 5⁄8″ (1.6cm) seam allowances to both cut edges. Extend the X’s to create the matching notches.

6. If you want the princess line to fit with more shaping at the waistline, you can always stitch on the side legs of the waist-fitting dart to tighten the bodice.

This article appeared in a previous issue of Notions
~ Glenda Sparling is president of Sure-Fit Designs, an international company specializing in pattern fitting and designing. Canadian-born, her background includes 10 years as a home economics educator and 30 years in the sewing industry. Based in Eugene, Ore., she has traveled extensively, teaching in the U.S., Canada, Australia, New Zealand, and Great Britain. Glenda has written pattern fitting, designing, and embellishment books, including “Wrapped in Fabrique,” and a series of how-to fitting videos that have been converted recently to DVD format. She is a member of the ASG Willamette Valley, Ore. Chapter. www.surefitdesigns.com

February 4, 2022

Storing Sewing Patterns

There’s nothing more challenging that having a burgeoning pile of pattern tissue and trying to fold it all neatly back into its original envelope without tearing either the pattern or the envelope. It’s one of those “How did they get it all in there?” questions. (Truth be told, a machine does it at the factory.)

The question becomes, what’s the best way to store sewing patterns to keep them neat and make them easy to find for your next project? The more patterns you own, the harder this becomes. But first you need to analyze your space as that can determine your preferred method of organizing.

Also, as you probably have noticed, not all pattern brands have the same size envelopes, creating yet another challenge. Then there are those patterns you downloaded as PDF files, traced from a magazine, or drafted yourself. So, let’s explore some ideas.

Organizing Options

pattern pieces

Some sewists like to store patterns by category—pants, dresses, skirts, etc.—making them easy to find for a specific project. Other categories include home décor, accessories and crafts. If you have a lot of craft patterns, you may want to break down the categories further—maybe aprons, hats, totes, baskets, holiday, etc.
If you’ve got a pattern stash for multiple family members, you may opt to separate them by name. Or, perhaps by size range—men, women, kids, plus sizes.
Other sewers like to keep all patterns of a given brand together, and then perhaps sort them by number within the branded group.
So, decision #1 is how do you want to organize your patterns. Decision #2 becomes how best to manage the inventory, and there are many great methods.

Binders

Binder for holding patterns — We utilize affiliate links and may earn a small commission on your purchase.

Having a binder of pattern options is like perusing the pattern catalogs at the fabric store, only these are all yours. Invest in some plastic sleeve protectors and place one pattern’s folded tissue and the envelope into the page protector, then file them in large binders using one of the organizing methods noted above.

Another binder option is to stow only the envelope in the page protector, and store the innards in a separate location labeled by pattern brand/number. Binders are available with 5” rings that will hold hundreds of pattern sleeves.

Drawers/Boxes/File Cabinets/Baskets

If you opt to stow your patterns in a drawer, box, basket, etc., the same clear plastic options can be used, or purchase manila envelopes, place the tissue and instructions inside, then cut the envelope apart and glue the front and back onto the envelope.

Depending on the size of the container, you may also be able to just stand the original pattern envelopes up in rows, assuming the tissue is stuffed inside, or you’ve opted for plastic/manila sleeves.

Technology to the Rescue

It’s helpful to create a database of patterns, if you’re sew inclined. This allows you to cross-reference by brand, number, garment type and size. If you scan the pattern envelope front and back, you can have a quick guide to the fabric amounts, etc. and if your database is accessible on a mobile device, it can be used while shopping. Most databases allow your pattern inventory to be shared with others—like if some family members you sew for live elsewhere.

And, who hasn’t purchased the same pattern twice, not realizing you already owned it? Having access to your current pattern inventory can eliminate that issue.

Some software programs to explore for pattern organizing include Evernote, Trello, Tap Forms, and Dropbox.

Special Needs

Dressmakers: If you’re a dressmaker, you may have several patterns with custom alterations—someone’s favorite shirt or pants made just for them. If the patterns are made from tagboard, it’s easy to punch a hole in them, hang the pieces, then label them with the client’s name and date. These hang easily on a closet rod, hooks or metal rack.

Costume Maker: If you’re a costume maker or work with a theater group, perhaps you want to organize your patterns by era, so you can access something period appropriate for a performance. Maybe you further delineate by male/female or child/adult.

Bridal: Bridal work requires larger pieces than daywear, so the hanging option may be a good one for veil, train and petticoat patterns common to many styles.

How do the Pros do it?

We asked three industry professionals how they store their patterns:

Deanna Springer
Vice President of Marketing, Host/Producer, Stitch it! Sisters, Nancy Zieman Productions, LLC
To keep my sewing patterns organized, I store them in reusable pattern pouches that are see-through, waterproof and have a zippered closure. I can easily see what’s inside and they’re big enough to hold all the tissue without trying to restuff it into the original envelope.

Rhonda Pierce
Spokesperson, SCHMETZneedles.com/Vice President, Euro-notions
My pattern stash organization is three-fold: Used patterns, never to be made again but can’t bear to toss or donate, are stored in a giant box in the garage. Patterns waiting to be made are neatly organized in a basket in my sewing room awaiting fabric and stitch time. Favorite patterns are dropped into a zip-top bag and hung with completed projects for easy reference and perhaps made again.

Kenneth D. King
designer
I draft my own patterns on fairly robust white kraft paper. Once I get a pattern perfected, I have two legal-sized envelopes—one for the initial working draft, one for the finished pattern. I label it, with the name, date it was finished (month and year), and on the envelope, I make any notes I need to construct it. If it goes on to be part of my output for customers, I will note the customer, the serial number of the piece on the envelope as well. They store in my filing cabinet—the newer work in the upper drawers, older in the lower. Patterns that I use rarely live in a big banker’s file storage box in my office. So, nothing fancy. I don’t spend more time storing them, as I prefer to spend that time sewing.

~Linda Griepentrog
Linda is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and two dogs, Yohnuh and Abby. Contact her at gwizdesigns@aol.com.

January 28, 2022

Fabric Sources: Minerals — Acrylics, Polyester, & Nylon

This article is Part 1 of the Fabric Sources: Minerals series

Plants (part 1) | Plants (part 2 )
Living Things: Silk | Living Things: Wool | Other Living Things
Minerals: Acrylics, Polyester, & Nylon (part 1) | Minerals: Spandex and Rayon (part 2)

The last two articles in our Plant, Animal, Mineral Fabric series turns our focus to Minerals. It’s important to note that while there are some textiles made from actual minerals like copper, gold, and steel, their usage is very specialized and will not be something you’ll be able to use to make a cute handbag or an elegant quilt. In this category, we review synthetic fabrics made from petroleum and regenerated cellulose. To start, we’ll look at 3 synthetic fabrics made from petroleum — acrylics, polyester, and nylon. Fair warning: this discussion will take us on a “nerdier” journey as instead of looking at plants and animals, we delve into the chemistry of fabric creation.

Petroleum

Petroleum is by far the leading source used in creating synthetic fabrics. Acrylics, polyester, nylon, and spandex all are made from petroleum. Petroleum-based fabrics are very prevalent so we won’t be including a “where can I buy it” section. The answer for all of them would be “just about anywhere.”

Most fabrics used in Fast Fashion are made from petroleum.

Acrylics

Acrylic fabric is made with plastic threads but still closely resembles the look and feel of wool. The plastic threads are made of a man-made polymer fiber created from fossil fuels through a chemical process.

How is it processed?

When heat and pressure (energy) is applied to fossil fuels (petroleum, natural gas, and sometimes coal), magic happens, and a plastic solution is formed. Chemistry nerds call this process polymerization, but sewing nerds just call it magic. This plastic solution, somewhere between a solid and a liquid state, is spun through tools with holes (called spinnerets). The spinnerets create a thread product that varies in thickness and is hollow or solid based on the size and shape of the spinneret holes. The solution spins through the spinnerets and exits into either air or water where it solidifies into the acrylic fibers. Those fibers are washed, dried, cut, and spun into thread which can then be woven into fabric. This video will help you to visualize the spinneret process:

Pros

Acrylic fabric is lightweight, warm, dries quickly and is soft to the touch. It is also water repellent. And since it can be produced more cheaply than natural wool, is a less expensive fabric option.

Cons

Unfortunately, being water repellent also means that bacteria growth can occur in the fabric ,which can cause odor and may weaken it. Acrylic fabric is also prone to static electricity and cling. It is flammable and can be difficult to extinguish as compared to wool, which is difficult to light. It tends to pill and is not as exceptionally durable.

Looking at this list of cons can make a person ask – “why bother?” However, blending acrylic fibers with natural wool fibers often minimizes the cons. When you buy a fabric labeled as a wool blend, you will pay less for it because it just might have been blended with its less expensive copycat, acrylic.

Environmental Impact

Contact with the polymer created during the production process is like encountering cyanide and has also been identified as a cancer hazard.

In addition to those health risks, the previously mentioned cons add up to a strong likelihood that a garment made from purely acrylic fabric will not be durable enough to have a long life in your closet. When tossed into a landfill, it can take up to 200 years to decompose, releasing the chemicals used to create the fabric into the environment along the way.

Polyester

Polyester fibers are the product of a chemical reaction between coal, petroleum, air, and water. It is the fiber most used in clothing and is responsible for the consumption of nearly 70 million barrels of oil each year.

Polyester fabric

How is it processed?

Polyester is created by applying heat and pressure to petroleum-based acid and alcohol to generate a plastic substance. The substance is referred to as a polyester polymer. Sound familiar? The acrylic process in the previous section involves the same approach. This polymer can be heated and reshaped into various forms so even though they look and feel very different, your plastic water bottle and the polyester fabric in your stash are made from the very same material. The polymer substance in the water bottle is just pulled, stretched, and melted in a different way than your fabric. But once the substance has been turned into thread fibers, it is knitted or woven into fabric the same way all fabric is created. This sounds very science nerdy, but watch this video and let some kids make it easy to understand. If they can understand it, so can we!

Pros

Polyester fibers are often spun together with natural fibers to produce a cloth with blended properties. Cotton-polyester blends can be strong, wrinkle- and tear-resistant, and reduce shrinking. Synthetic fibers using polyester have higher water, wind, and environmental resistance than the plant-derived fibers they are often combined with. And they are highly stain-resistant, good for protecting from that spill of red wine, but not so great if you are trying to dye them.

Cons

Besides their environmental impact (see below), they are less fire-resistant than natural fibers and can melt when ignited. And as mentioned above, they do not accept dye well.

Environmental Impact

Not only is polyester derived from non-renewable resources, but the process of extraction from fossil fuels yields a high carbon footprint and significant by-products. Like acrylic fabric, polyester can take more than 200 years to decompose. Plus, recent studies show that polyester sheds minuscule pieces of plastic with every wash which then enters our environment. This means they can be ingested by fish and animals and, yes, even humans. Something to consider if you are trying to reduce the amount of plastic in your diet. On a more positive note, because polyester is a plastic, it has the potential of being recycled. But even the recycling process generates a significant carbon footprint.

Fun Fact: Did you know that there is a naturally occurring form of polyester? It’s found in some plant cuticles and is also produced by one species of bees. There is no process for extracting these natural poly sources to produce fabric.

Nylon

Nylon is the second most used synthetic fabric, right behind polyester. It was developed under the umbrella of Dupont over an 11-year time span, finally being announced as viable in 1938. The use of nylon in clothing emerged out of a search for alternatives to silk and hemp for parachutes in World War II. When the war began, cotton constituted more than 80% of fabric used in the United States, and almost all other fabric was made from wool. By 1945, synthetic fibers like nylon supplied around 25% of the textile market share. And once the war ended, manufacturers sought all sorts of new ways to market this and other synthetic fabrics.

nylon fabric

How is it processed?

Like the other petroleum-based synthetic fabrics we have discussed, nylon fabric is a polymer composed of a long chain of carbon-based molecules extracted from crude oil via a chemical reaction process. The resulting substance is a nylon salt, which is melted and forced through spinnerets to create fibers. These fibers are stretched to increase their strength and elasticity, then wound onto spools in a process called “drawing” that forces the fiber molecules to arrange in a parallel structure so they can be knitted or woven into fabric.

In some cases, nylon may be turned into fabric on its own, but it is usually combined with other fibers, creating various nylon blends. Watch this 7-minute video for a great overview of both the science and the history of nylon:

Pros

Nylon is light-weight, durable, and has good elasticity. Nylon garments tend to be easy-care garments. On a positive note, it dyes well and is less flammable than cotton and rayon, but on a negative note, it fades easily and melts. If exposed to fire, nylon can stick to your skin.

Cons

Nylon is not terribly breathable and is prone to pilling.

Environmental Impact

Surprisingly, nylon production has roughly the same carbon footprint as wool production, but given it has greater durability than wool, the net carbon production footprint is lower. However, while discarded nylon fabric decomposes much faster than acrylic or polyester at about 30–40 years, it decomposes much more slowly than any of the natural fiber alternatives. Nylon can be recycled but because of the expense and difficulties of the nylon recycling process, few companies utilize it. Considering all these factors, while nylon has a smaller environmental impact than acrylic and polyester, it is still considered to have a negative environmental impact.

~Sheryl Belson

January 21, 2022

Breaking Down the Roadblocks to Creativity

The path to sewing creativity is full of roadblocks—all of our own making. As sewers, we need to learn to let go, to trust ourselves, and just allow the creative process to happen.

Sewing educator, Londa Rohlfing, developed a list of things sewers unwittingly do to kill their creativity. This is a look at those roadblocks—and how to easily overcome them. Don’t let a creative block stop you from completing a project!

We are way too hard on ourselves, underestimating our capabilities. Sewists forget that the sewing process is wonderfully forgiving. Most sewing situations or “mistakes” can be turned into a success in some way, shape, or form. Really! It’s not like in cooking when you crack what you thought was the second egg, put it into the pot, and mix it up—only to turn around and see that there are already two sets of eggshells in the sink. In cooking, you can’t retrieve the extra egg from the liquid but, in sewing, you can always “un-sew.” Maybe you cut something off you shouldn’t have? Just sew it back on! Not enough fabric? Go get a coordinating fabric! The thing about sewing is that you are in control. Unlike so much of life, you decide what goes where, and how it goes there. You can make those decisions… you just need to let go and be your own boss.

Woman sewing

We feel that every idea has to be totally new. If you’ve ever watched Project Runway, you might recall that you didn’t see any fresh, new ideas. If you’ve been a student of fashion, you know that you routinely see styles resurrected… over and over and over again. Designers just put it all together in a new way and give it their own little twist. You can do the same thing. Go ahead—make use of those ideas in your personal sewing. Creativity is not always a natural, easy process. Have all the lessons you’ve learned in life been painless? For most of us, wisdom comes mostly from the school of (real) hard knocks. That is true both for life… and sewing.

We think we have to have precise directions on how to do anything and everything. How many patterns have you bought, trying to figure out how to master a technique that puzzles you? Become your own inner child and say, “Let me do it my way, Mommy.” Then just do it!

We think every project has to work out perfectly and that we should automatically love everything we create. Tell me now—really—do you just love and wear everything you buy? Why not? After all, you had the chance to try it on and evaluate it before you ever went home with it. Ease up on yourself and vow to enjoy the process, not just the outcome.

Woman giving thumbs down to sewing project

We feel it is wrong to un-sew, retry, and start over. You only learn by doing. The good news is that there is no Sewing Police ready to haul you off to Stitching Jail if you break a rule. Figure something out on your own. Do it differently. Try it your way. Remember… sewing is one place where you are in the driver’s seat. A wrong turn here or there is not going to kill anyone. Have fun! If you mess it up, go buy more fabric. Everything that happens is just another creative opportunity.

We limit our materials and equipment choices. Londa said that selling sewing machines taught her so much, especially about women. She sang praises whenever a woman brought her husband in with her to look at a new sewing machine. Most of the time, the woman would always want to settle for the lower model. (And, of course, they wanted to think about it!) But, in every case, the hubby encouraged them to get the better one—and to buy it that very day. Why do we not think we are worth the best we can afford? Besides that, at least 50% of the sewing we do is for others and not ourselves. Sewing equipment (and fabric, of course) are merely the tools that are necessary to create. Without the proper tools, you’ve stacked the deck against creativity and success. Ever see a builder build a house without an electric nail gun?

We feel compelled to use everything we’ve gathered for a project along with incorporating every technique we know—with no “editing as you go. To combat this, Linda has three mottos that she shares over and over and over: “Less is best.” “Stop before you think you’re done.” “If in doubt… leave it out!”

Happy sewist

~This article is adapted from an article in a previous issue of Notions
After owning her own fabric shop/machine dealership for 13 years, then traveling to teach at expos and events across the country, Londa Rohlfing now teaches in her Sunroom Sewing Studio in Jackson, TN. Londa often prefers artsy, creative sewing, and loves teaching and sharing the designs and the techniques she’s developed. In addition, her website mission is to offer related and hard-to-find sewing products with exceptional personal service. (www.londas-sewing.com)