ASG Sewing Blog – Page 46

June 4, 2021

Selvages: On the Edge

What is the selvage?

Selvages are the edges of woven fabrics—the place where the weft (crosswise) threads turn around to form the next row during the weaving process. Some selvages are thicker than the fabric itself, as often there are more threads per inch at the edges to help keep the edges straight during the weaving process.

Think of your fabric’s selvage as its DNA, with important information about it you may need to know.

Selvages may be the same color as the fabric, or they may be a contrast. Interestingly, contrast threads are sometimes woven in the selvages. On some velvets and velveteens, you may see metallic threads along the edges.

On high quality and imported fabrics, sometimes the requisite information like fiber content and country of origin is actually woven into the selvage in a contrasting thread color.

Selvages information — Image used with permission from Marcy Tilton

Selvages are not always straight—they can be fringed or looped, depending on the type of loom used and the finishing processes.

On fabric like denim where the warp (lengthwise) threads are a different color than the crosswise threads, the selvages may be totally different looking than the fabric body itself.

Information, please

You can find a variety of information bits on most selvages, but some have none. Look for the brand name, the designer’s name and sometimes the fiber content and/or care instructions, like “dry clean only.” You may also find the date the fabric design was copyrighted, and on printed fabrics, you may see lots of colored dots or shapes along the edge. These fun indicators tell how many different color screens were used in the printing process of the particular fabric.

Some selvage edges include the website for the fabric brand or a social media reference. Designers have even been know to add an inspirational message on the selvage.
In addition, home décor fabrics may show an indication of the repeat of the pattern, and sometimes an arrow showing which direction is up in the patterning.

Saving Selvages

Because of their tighter weave, the selvages may shrink differently from the fabric itself, so many people just cut the selvages off before cutting out the project.

While you can certainly trim and toss them, you can also use them creatively. If your project has a straight seam edge, you can cut it on the selvage to avoid raveling and perhaps add a decorative touch to the seam edge. A pant leg seam or a loose fitting, straight-cut jacket would be two great places to cut on the selvage for pre-finished seam allowances. Selvages are also a great edge for pockets or straight hems, either exposed for interest, or just as an edge finish.

Trimmed selvages are often used to stabilize a stretchy area—like a shoulder seam in a knit T-shirt. Lightweight woven selvages, like silk organza, are ideal for this use, as they’re sheer and don’t add a lot of bulk as they span the seamline. Interesting cut-off selvages can also be “reapplied” to an area as a decorative trim, often combined with ribbons, braids or decorative stitching. Fun selvages are also great to insert as a flat piping.

Selvages (with some attached fabric width) can also be used for bindings or garment ties.

Quilting Ideas

If you’re a quilter, perhaps you keep all your cotton selvages for other projects. It’s easy to strip piece them together on a lightweight backing to make quilt blocks or other projects. When you trim the selvage, leave at least ¼” beyond the actual selvage and use that for joining. Layer the strips one edge over the other and zigzag the edges in place through the backing until you fill the space needed.

Crafting Ideas

For crafting, trimmed selvages are ideal for decoupaging onto projects—like basic tennies {photo}, picture frames, boxes, vases, etc. Just overlap the raw edge portion and seal with the medium.

Holey Moley

What are those holes along the selvage? They’re called tenter holes and they’re used to hold the fabric to a frame during the printing and finishing processes.

~Linda Griepentrog
Linda is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and two dogs, Yohnuh and Abby. Contact her at .

May 28, 2021

Working with Pre-Cut Fabrics

If you’re a quilter, chances are you’re familiar with pre-cut fabric groupings, but if you’re not a quilter, the term may be new to you.

Pre-Cuts Explained

Free Spirit Kaffe Fassett fabric collection. Image used with permission.

Most manufacturers offer their lines in coordinated groupings of various numbers of fabrics—often including prints, solids and perhaps dots or stripes that all go together. For those reticent about their own abilities to coordinate and mix patterns and colors, pre-cuts eliminate that stress, as they’re all planned to go together and there’s no decision making required.

Choosing a pre-cut bundle is a great way to sample a multitude of prints without having to purchase yardage of each fabric in the line—a huge cost saver. In addition, using pre-cuts saves time—not only for shopping, but also because you don’t have to cut all the pieces from yardage. Because they’re all cut at the same time, the pieces are all the same size.

Pre-cuts usually include one or two pieces for each fabric in the specific line and generally total twenty to forty-two pieces of the same size. The groupings can be made from a single fabric line or they can be chosen for other similarities, like all dots and stripes, all batiks, various prints in the same color range, or sometimes all neutrals.

Sizing

Moda Fabrics Belle Isle Jelly Roll by Minick Simpson - Available in August, 2021 — Moda Fabrics Belle Isle Jelly Roll by Minickk Simpson. Available in August, 2021. Image used with permission.

These handy time savers come in a variety of sizes and with a multitude of name variations, depending on the manufacturer. Look for monikers like Jelly Rolls, Charm Packs, Layer Cakes, Pops, Stackers, Roll-ups, etc. Most are quilting cottons, but there are also bundles of wools and other fabrics offered.

Common pre-cut sizes include strips of 1 ½”, 2 ½” or 5” by the width of the fabric. Squares come in 2”, 2 ½”, 5”, 6” and 10” variations. In addition, there are die-cut triangles, diamonds and hexagons available, and of course the more familiar fat quarter (18” x 22”) and fat eighth (9” x 22”) options.

During the manufacturing process, fabrics are layered and either die-cut, laser cut or manually cut into the preferred size/shape. The number of layers being cut at once is dependent on how many fabrics are in a given collection, and if there are multiples given of any.

Many pre-cuts come with pinked edges to help prevent fraying {photo}, while others have straight-cut edges and may be plastic wrapped for the same reason. For those pre-cuts with pinked edges, use the peak to measure seam allowances, rather than the valley portion of the zigzag.

Using Pre-Cuts

Pre-cuts generally do not get pre-washed, as doing so can create a mess of lint and threads as pieces fray. But, if you compelled to do so, place them in a mesh bag and use a gentle cycle or simply place them in a basin of hot water to soak.

To help keep the edges of your fabric neater, use a lint roller along the edge of the pre-cuts before using.

There are many quilt patterns available that are specific to pre-cut sized pieces and they can also be used for all kinds of small projects where buying by the yard may not be necessary to cut the needed pieces. The 2 ½” x width-of-fabric strips are ideal for binding.

Measure the pre-cut pieces to be sure that they are accurately sized and if not, adjust pieces accordingly that you cut from yardage to pair with the pre-cuts. Some pre-cuts are actually larger than the stated size, while others may be slightly smaller.

And don’t forget—you can cut pre-cuts into small cuts if your pattern requires it. For example, a 10” pre-cut square can yield four 5” squares or sixteen 2 ½” squares, or some combination thereof.

Patterns

Sometimes a distinct pattern may not align with the cut edges on pre-cuts, causing the design to appear crooked. What can you do? If the issue is bothersome to you, think about recutting the piece along the design lines and using it as a smaller piece for another project.

May 26, 2021

Fireside Chat: Sisters in Stitches

Join us for a lovely 35 minute chat with Sisters in Stitches Joined by the Cloth. We think you will enjoy hearing them talk about how they journal their stories of grief, ancestral history and all sorts of storytelling through the fiber art of quilting.

~Sheryl Belson

May 21, 2021

Can I sew that? Cork, Leather, and Wood

Once you venture into the world of sewing and get comfortable with some of the basics, it is amazing to discover, like the popular Dr. Seuss book says – “Oh the places you will go!” Many an adventurous sewist has explored sewing on what some may consider unconventional things. As an example, take a look at the interview we did with Olivia Mears. She has used many unconventional items, like Taco Bell sauce packets and gift wrap, in her sewing. But there are certainly fewer unconventional items to sew with that will still feed your adventurous spirit. In this article, we will look at cork. leather, and wood.

Cork

Cork is a sustainable, natural product that is harvested from Cork Oak trees. When the trees are 25 years old (they can live up to 200 years!), the bark can be harvested and the tree regenerates until the next harvest in about 9 years. The harvested cork is processed by drying, boiling then gluing it to a backing before rolling it for distribution. Cork can be used for all sorts of projects, like handbags, pouches, and wallets. It holds its shape and is quite durable. And it’s surprisingly easy to sew on your home sewing machine with just a few helpful tips.

Scissors or a rotary cutter both cut cork easily.
Use a polyester thread.
Use a size 80-90 universal or embroidery needle. If the layers are thick, try an 80-90 leather or denim needle.
Use a Teflon or a walking foot to help move the cork smoothly through the machine.
It is best to test sew with a ‘fabric sandwich’ before you start. Make your fabric sandwich with the same layers you will sew in your project. The best time to make any needle or tension adjustments is before you get to your actual project.
Lengthen your stitch length to about 3–4 to avoid perforating the cork too much. And topstitching should be lengthened even more to about 5-5.50.
To prevent holes in your cork, it is best to use sewing clips. Pins can be used inside the seam allowance, but clips usually work much better.
Double-sided tape or glue is helpful to hold small pieces in place. Just avoid sewing through the tape or it may make your needle sticky and may cause skipped stitches.
If you do have to unpick, try to re-sew into the same holes.

Jessica from Sallie Tomato made this 6-minute video with some great info about cork and how to get started with it.

Leather

Leather, made from animal hides or skins, comes from various animal hides, such as cows, crocodiles, pigs, even stingrays. Leather is durable, wrinkle-resistant, and will take on a different look/feel based on the type of animal, grade, and treatment. Sewing with leather may seem daunting, but with only a few tips, you can successfully make everything from bags, garments, and home dec.

Here are a few to get you started.

Use a leather needle. The heavier the leather, the heavier the needle.
Sew with 100% polyester thread. Over time, leather eats natural fiber threads like cotton.
Home sewing machines can sew up to about 2 oz leather. Heavier leather may be too dense for your machine.
Use a Teflon foot, roller foot or, walking foot to sew more smoothly.
As with cork, lengthen your stitches to about 3–4 to avoid perforating the leather too much. And topstitching should be lengthened even more to about 5-5.50.
Leather has no grain! Layout your pattern any way you wish. But watch for blemishes and ripples and avoid using them in a visible area.
Always use a rotary cutter or Exacto knife to cut leather. Scissors can mar the cut edge.
Trace the pattern pieces on the wrong side of the leather then cut out on the traced lines. Since you can’t pin the piece down, it is difficult to cut around the piece itself.
Remember that dyed leather will bleed onto fabric. If you are making a garment, this must be considered. According to Peggy Sagers, you can wash your leather to remove some of the dye and reduce or eliminate the bleed when cleaning later. If making an all-leather garment (like a vest or jacket), you will want to line it to prevent color bleed on whatever you wear under the leather garment.

For those of you who love to do machine embroidery, don’t skip leather as one of your options. Watch this 2015 video in the Members Only section for a simple starter project with lots of helpful tips. (You must be logged into ASG account before clicking the link so you go straight into the video).

Wood

If the idea of sewing with leather didn’t scare you off, you may be adventurous enough to try sewing on wood. No, you probably won’t be making a dress or a pair of pants from wood, but it can be used to make interesting accents, ornaments, box tops, home decor pieces, etc. And it certainly will be intriguing to show off at your next Neighborhood Group show-and-tell!

To help you venture “into the woods,” you need a few tips.

Choose a very thin wood such as 1/32″ veneer. Balsa is an ideal choice. You can usually find it at a hobby store where they sell model airplane-making supplies. You may be able to stitch on wood up to 1/8″ thick and in some instances soft woods that are 1/4″ thick, depending on the stitch.
Use an adhesive stabilizer on the back to help prevent splitting. If both sides will show, use a removable stabilizer, otherwise just leave the extra layer in place.
For thinner woods, use a small needle (75/11) to avoid leaving big holes and splintered areas around the stitches. Use a larger needle for thicker wood.
Use longer than normal stitches to avoid perforations and subsequent breaking.
If using a decorative stitch, select stitches that don’t re-enter the same hole during sewing. If you can adjust the speed of your machine, change it to slower than normal to avoid heat build-up at the needle.
Always test-stitch on wood scraps before starting your project. Just like in fabric, the wood grain direction can influence the appearance and stability of your project.

You can also embroider on wood with openwork designs. Simply secure the wood in the hoop with an adhesive stabilizer or temporary spray adhesive. Use a hoop larger than the wood section to avoid bending it and to keep it flat while stitching. To see an example of embroidery on wood, watch this presentation published in 2015 in our Members Only area. (You must be logged into ASG account before clicking the link so you go straight into the video).

So, now it’s your turn!

Venture out into a new area and try one of these materials in your next project. We would love to see your results! Share them by emailing them to me at . If we get enough input, maybe we can do a follow-up story of all “the places you will go!”

~Sheryl Belson

May 14, 2021

Paperless Sewing: Projectors in the Sewing Room

Banks do it…utilities do it…credit card companies do it, and now you can do it in your sewing room as well! What is it? Going paperless.

With more and more sewing patterns available online in PDF format, you can have instant gratification without a trip to the local fabric store to get the latest offering. But, maybe the tedium of printing out all the pages, aligning guide marks, and taping the multitude of pieces together into a cumbersome giant paper offering isn’t one you relish. And of course, then you have to figure out how to refold all the pieces for storing for future use.

But, there is another way—projection sewing! Instead of printing, taping, etc., you simply project the pattern pieces directly onto your fabric and cut. The digital pattern file is stored in your computer for reuse anytime you want it.

What do you need?

Projector

First you need a projector mounted over your cutting surface. The projector can be ceiling mounted or it can be attached to a tripod, photo boom or some other kind of photo stand so that the projected image faces your cutting surface.

When you’re looking for a projector, check the image resolution, as the higher the resolution, the sharper the image will appear on your fabric. Check that it offers a remote, so you don’t have to climb up to the ceiling to make adjustments, like focusing. Also make sure that the projector can be operated in a vertical orientation as not all are designed to vent correctly in that position. Note the lumen output, as this determines the brightness. If your sewing room is brightly lit, look for a higher lumen setting.

Another important setting to check when purchasing a projector is the “throw”. This is the distance from the projector lens (not the ceiling) to your cutting surface to determine the clarity of the image. A short-throw projector is suitable for 3-8 feet, which encompasses most sewing situations.

When installing the projector, or placing it in a temporary holder, it’s imperative that the lens is level as well as the cutting table below it, to avoid distortion.

Connection

Because the PDF pattern file is in your computer, tablet or phone, you need to have a way to get it to the projector. Some projectors are wireless, others require a cable connection, others require alternate means of interfacing, so check that information before purchasing to ensure compatibility.

Pattern

Any PDF pattern can work for projecting, but there are companies that make pattern files specifically designed for projection. These offer the pattern pieces in their final layout, with grainlines all going in the same direction, ready for cutting. There may be multiple pages to the pattern file, depending on what the project is and the size. If your fabric is directional, double-check that the tops of all pieces are going in the same direction, otherwise you’ll need to adjust before projecting.

Getting Ready

Before you project the pattern pieces onto your fabric, it’s imperative to calibrate the projector so that the patterns show up at the proper size. Some projectors offer a calibration guide that you can project and synch with your gridded cutting mat to ensure the sizing, but those guides are also available online and with some PDF patterns. Usually there’s a 1” and 2” square to align with the mat grid, and some have keystones in the corners to ensure that there’s no distortion along the outer edges of the image. Once this process is complete, note the projector’s zoom setting needed for future pattern work.

Partial image of cutting mat

You need to be proficient with Adobe Acrobat Reader (or other PDF app/program) to be able to rotate pattern pieces that may need to be changed for the layout, and to hide any layers of the pattern for all the sizes that you’re not using. If you’re projecting onto dark fabric, you may want to change colors (under Acrobat’s Accessibility options) so that the pattern lines show as white or a bright color on the fabric.

When any of those changes are complete, it’s time to hide the calibration grid, lay out your fabric and project the pattern. Align the fold with any projected fold line and be sure the edges of your fabric are squared to the cutting mat lines. If your fabric is slippery, you might want to use pattern weights to hold it in place during cutting. Then, simply cut out all the pieces along the projected lines. If there’s more than one page of pattern pieces, you’ll need to reposition the fabric for the subsequent layouts.

The big question—What about alterations?

Many of us don’t fit perfectly into a single pattern size, but you can still use projector sewing. If you have complex alterations for fit, such as shoulder or armhole changes, it’s best to project your pattern pieces onto large sheets (or a roll) of paper, cut out the pieces and make the necessary changes manually.

But, if you simply need to toggle between two sizes, it’s easy. For example, if you need a size 14 on the top and a 16 on the bottom, leave both size layers visible for projection and gradually taper between the sizes.

If you need to lengthen or shorten the pattern interior (like waistline length), that can be done while cutting. Using a removable marker, mark the designated lengthen/shorten line projected on the image just outside the cut line. As you’re cutting the pattern out, stop when you get to that line and slide the fabric in the direction needed so that the image is the requisite amount away from the cutting line end.

It’s just as easy to add length to the bottom of a pattern piece as well, just be sure to leave enough space on the fabric beyond the initial projected line, then slide the fabric to allow for the image placement at the requisite addition. Slide the fabric the opposite direction to shorten at the hemline.

For more information:

Simple Life Pattern Company
Little Ragamuffin
Projectors for Sewing Facebook Group
Projector Central – search this site for projector information or to use the Find a Projector search function to search for a projector to meet your needs.
Check YouTube for numerous videos on paperless sewing topics, calibration and projector settings

~Linda Griepentrog
Linda is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and two dogs, Yohnuh and Abby.