quilting

February 14, 2025

Car Bling: Sewing License Plates

Sewing enthusiasts can often be seen wearing testaments to our hobby—sewing-themed T-shirts and sweatshirts and carrying themed totes—just letting the world know of our passion. But in addition to wearables, some go further by embellishing their vehicles—with window stickers, bumper stickers, and even vanity license plates.

Vanity plates are always fun to figure out, especially if you only have a minute or two when you’re stopped behind someone at a traffic light. It’s an “aha” moment when you figure it out before the light changes and you speed off, as it’s sometimes hard to decipher those plates at 60mph. Ask me how I know…

If you’re thinking about getting a personalized license plate, be sure to check with your state department of motor vehicles for the rules before you begin to rack your brain for a phrase that’s allowable, fits the parameters, and most importantly, isn’t already taken. State rules vary considerably and you may be limited to six, seven or, if you’re lucky, eight letters and/or spaces to get your message across. Some states allow punctuation to be included, others don’t, and some allow special symbols like hearts to be part of the tag.

Check With Your State

Each state has certain words and phrases that are disallowed, as they can connote other meanings, refer to body parts, sex, drugs, or are known as swear words. States try to keep up on the latest slang so as not to let offensive combos onto the metal. So be sure to check that list first so you’re not disappointed when you come up with something you think is wonderful that might be misconstrued. If your favorite phrase is already taken, consider if there’s a way you can modify it to come up with a new variation. For example, if ISEW is already in use, consider adding a number or other letters or punctuation to make it new—like ISEW2 or I SEW IT; SEW FUN can become SEW FUN2 or SEW FUN!.

Also check your state regs for the use of numbers within the phrase, as often digits can take the place of whole words or be combined with letters to help fit words within the number of letters allowed. For example, GR8 takes the place of GREAT, but it’s still pronounced the same as if all the letters were used. The number two can denote to, two or too in a chosen phrase. Single letters can also rise to the occasion to sub for words—think of U, B, C, O and Y, subbing for you, be, see or sea, oh, and why, respectively.

So, what kind of sewing specialty license plate do you want? Here are a few ideas, and by no means a complete list, depending on the number of letters and spaces allowed in your state:

Idea Bank

♥♥SEW♥♥
♥2SEW
I ALTER
BOBBINS
CRAFTER
DUDESEW
FABRIC
FABRIC2
I B ASG
I MEND
I QUILT
I SEW
IBSEWN
IM ASG
IMSEWGR8
INSPIRE
ISEW4U

ITSSEWU
LIV2SEW
LUV2SEW
MAKER
MANSEW
MESEW
OH DARN
OH I SEW
PIECER
QUILT NUT
QUILTER
SCRAPPY
SEW BATTY
SEW BUSY
SEW COOL
SEW COZY
SEW EZ

SEW FUN
SEW HOT
SEW IT
SEW MAN
SEW NUT
SEW RITE
SEW SASS
SEW SMRT
SEW WHAT
SEW’N’GO
SEW’N’GRL
SEWBZY
SEWCOOL
SEWCR8V
SEWDIVA
SEWDOI
SEWER

SEWGR8
SEWGR8
SEWHAUTE
SEWING
SEWIST
SEWITUP
SEWLUV
SEWN ♥
SEWNUP
SEWRETRO
STASHER
STITCHER
USEW2?
USEWGRL
WHOSEWS
Y I SEW

Frame-ups

If paying a premium for a vanity plate isn’t in your budget, consider a sewing-themed license plate frame. Check with your state for any regulations regarding frame size and coverage before purchasing.

These plate frames are available on Amazon. Click each image to view. Note that we may receive a small commission if you make a purchase.

Whether you get a whimsical vanity plate or a more low-key messaging frame, it’s always fun to tell the world you sew and you’re proud of it!

~Linda Griepentrog is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and three dogs, Yohnuh, Abby, and Lizzie. Contact her at .

January 14, 2022

Quilting Quandaries

Should quilt bindings always be double?

Quilt bindings can be single or double layer, depending on preference, but it’s worth noting that single-layer bindings do not offer as much “protection” to the quilt edge as double-layer ones do. If a quilt is going to be used regularly and/or washed, the added layers of a double binding will wear longer. A single-layer binding is often used on smaller items like table runners and wall hangings and it reduces bulk in comparison to the double-layer binding.

A double-layer binding is usually cut 2 ¼” to 2 ½” wide, folded wrong sides together and both raw edges aligned with the right side of the layered quilt edges for application with a ¼”-wide seam allowance. Once the initial stitching is completed, the binding is turned to the quilt underside and the folded edge is hand- or machine stitched on the quilt underside.

A single-layer binding is usually cut 1 1/4” wide. The long raw edge is aligned with the layered quilt edges, stitched in place and then the remaining raw edge of the binding is turned under ¼” and hand- or machine stitched in place on the quilt underside.

Both single- and double-layer bindings should be tight to the edge and completely filled with the quilt layers. Some quilters like to leave a little extra batting extending beyond the true edge of the quilt as additional filler inside the binding.

What is the easiest style of quilt to make for beginners?

One of the easiest quilts for beginners is one where no adjacent seams need to be matched, and seams are sewn in a straight line.

One option for easy beginner quilts includes offset blocks, where the squares (or rectangles) are cut all the same size, sewn together in strips and placement is offset. No seam matching required.

Quilt with staggered seams

Another easy option is strip quilting with 2 ½” (or wider) strips cut the full width of the fabric. The long edges are sewn together with straight seams, and strips added to create the desired size quilt. This creates a quilt approximately 42” wide. Strips can be sewn together end to end to make a wider quilt top and/or borders can be added to the outer edges to create the desired size.

After trying these two techniques, novice quilters can “graduate” to more complicated patterns with more complex cut shapes and seam matching required.

All quilting projects, no matter how simple, require accurate cutting of all pieces so they fit together, followed by accurate stitching of seams. A quarter-inch presser foot for the machine is helpful as it has a vertical guide for the fabric edge to follow. Or, the distance from the needle to the edge of another presser foot may be exactly ¼” so the foot edge can be used as a guide for even seaming.

Many years ago when I bought quilting fabrics, the clerk tore them. They don’t seem to do that anymore—why?

Those of a certain age may remember when fabric was drawn through a Measuregraph machine that measured the fabric and made a little slit at the designated amount and then the piece was torn off the bolt. Always a bit off-putting to see new fabric torn, most stores today simply cut it with scissors or a rotary cutter.

Tearing fabric does indicate the grainline, but it also can also distort it and leave white lines along the tear line, depending on how the fabric was printed. Those white streaks have to be cut off. Some prints are not aligned with the fabric grain, so tearing makes that much more obvious and creates waste for sewers trying to align the pattern with the block cuts. In addition, some fabrics simply cannot be torn—those include synthetics, knits and novelty weaves.

Torn Edges of fabric — A torn fabric edge can leave white lines along the tear line.

So, cutting seems to be a better option for today’s fabrics.

What color thread should I use to sew a quilt together when the fabrics are all different colors?

When piecing a quilt, choose a neutral color thread like beige, light grey, white or off-white. These blend with a variety of light- to mid-tone fabric colors. If your quilt is predominately dark colors, a black, brown, navy or dark gray may be more suitable for seaming.

If your machine tension is properly adjusted, the stitching in your quilt seams won’t show anyway and it will meld into the fabrics.

For the actual quilting process, the thread color depends on how prominent you want the quilting design to be—a contrast color will make it more prominent, while a neutral will make it less prominent. Or, choose a variegated thread and get the best of both. If you want the quilting to totally disappear visually, choose a monofilament.

Some quilters like to use a bobbin thread to match the quilt back, but be sure your machine tension is well adjusted if you choose this option so that the bobbin thread doesn’t peek out on the top side.

~Linda Griepentrog
Linda is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and two dogs, Yohnuh and Abby. Contact her at .

October 8, 2021

Pressing Tools—Clapper and Sleeve Board

It doesn’t matter whether you tailor fine wool jackets or make casual everyday wear, or if you’re a quilter—getting a good press is of the utmost importance for a professional-looking project. There are tools to help with that process. Let’s take a look at two tools that work for all sewers and quilters—a clapper and a sleeve board.

Clapper

What is it?

A clapper is basically a long block of wood with curved edges. The block may have indentations along the side for easier holding, but the bottom surface if totally flat. Clappers come in different sizes, depending on where they’ll be used.

It’s important that the clapper is made from hardwood with a heavy, closed grain so that it holds heat and steam in whatever you’re trying to press beneath it. Maple is a common wood used for clappers. All clappers should be unfinished wood, to avoid transferring any oils or finishes to the fabrics below.

What is it for?

Fashion sewers and quilters use a clapper to flatten and compress seams, creases and hems. It’s helpful for flattening edges, like tailored collars on jackets and cuffs. Some people use a clapper to create precise creases in pant legs. Quilters use clappers to help flatten seams, whether pressed open or to one side, and to make sharp seam edges in foundation piecing projects.

How does it work?

A clapper is used in conjunction with an iron, either steam or dry. If you’re using a dry iron, spray the area with water to moisten it before pressing and clappering.

Once the area is pressed with the iron and infused with steam, press the clapper down on top of the area to trap the moisture in the area until it cools. Apply pressure if you’re pressing a thick edge like a collar, lapel or cuff.

Sleeve Board

What is it?

A sleeve board is basically a small wooden ironing board, usually with padding on the upper surface. The wooden base usually isn’t padded, but provides an optional pressing surface should a harder surface be needed.

Some sleeve boards have metal grids under the upper padding and some have metal legs instead of being reversible flat surfaces.

What is it for?

The name doesn’t say it all, but it does note its original purpose—pressing sleeves, without getting extra creases where you don’t want them. But, it’s also handy for pressing pant legs and other tubular type sewing projects where you don’t want additional creases added to the area. For crafters, a sleeve board is handy for pressing wine bags or other narrow drawstring type bags where accessing seams can be challenging.

A sleeve board can also be used for any pressing task where a full-size ironing board might not be needed—like pressing doll clothes, or quilt blocks.

How does it work?

Sleeve board sizes vary depending on the manufacturer, and the size of the pressing surface obviously affects what can fit over it. But all sleeve boards have at least one end tapered so that it’s narrower than the opposite end attached to the base.

To use the sleeve board, simply slide the sewn tubular shape over the narrow end of the board and onto the padded pressing surface.
A sleeve can actually be pulled over the smaller curved end to lightly press the cap area during construction.
If you’re sewing with limited space, like at a retreat, a sleeve board can be used as your personal tabletop ironing board to save time waiting in line for the main ironing board.

June 25, 2021

Matching Points

Nothing causes quilters more angst than getting perfect points on their blocks. With multiple small pieces often combined into a single block, keeping points and seams aligned can be tricky, but there are a few tricks that help with the task. If you’re not a quilter, never fear, these same principles can apply to garment sewing where seams come together and opposing parts need to align. Think about a pieced bodice, a yoke/bodice joining, or an artful pieced jacket.

Match points in quilt blocks examples — Matched points on a quilt block

Point to Point

Lining up adjacent seams is easier if the opposing seam allowances are pressed in different directions. For example, on the upper half of a 4-patch block, press the seam allowances to the left; on the lower half of the block, press the seam allowances to the right.

Image showing seam allowances in opposite direction — Seam allowances in opposite direction

When the sections are placed right sides together, the sewn seams will be on top of each other and the seam allowances will nest together for a perfect match. Place a pin through the sewn seam so that it falls in the same place on the lower layer and then stitch, removing the pin as you come to it. Most machine manufacturers do not recommend stitching over pins.

Example of aligned corners — Aligned corners

This same process works for stitching together half-square triangle blocks. Press seams for adjacent blocks/rows in opposite directions so the seam allowances will nest during the joining process. Place a pin through to match the seams, then stitch, and you should come out with a perfect match {B-1, B-2}.

To test before stitching, fold back the seam allowances and check for the point match.

Image checking point alignmnet — Checking point alignmnet

Some quilters prefer to press seams open instead of to one side. In this instance, careful pinning if required for matching points as there isn’t the nesting seam allowance advantage.

Quilt seams pressed open. Image courtesy of Bernina

What if?

What if your points or seams don’t match? In most instances, taking out a few inches of the seam on either side of the mismatched seam allows for some readjustment and easing to realign the seam matching, then you can just restitch the open area.

Example of mismatched points on a quilt block — Mismatched points on a quilt block

If you’re comfortable leaving the mismatched seam, an easy way to camouflage it to simply tie the quilt at the corners. The yarn ties will hide the seam matching issues and no one will be the wiser. It won’t win you any awards in a quilt show, but it may still be a great quilt to please a child or loved one.

Sashed Seams

Many quilt patterns have strips placed between rows of blocks. These strips, whether vertical or horizontal, are called sashing. Many quilt patterns have sashing strips in both directions; if so, sew the vertical strips between the blocks first, then add the horizontal ones between the rows.

Example of sashing — Blocks aligned with sashing between

Getting blocks lined up on both sides of the sashing strip is much the same as aligning within the block or row, except that there’s now a strip between the rows.

To keep things aligned, sew a row of blocks to one side of the sashing strip, matching center points. Then fold down the sashing strip onto the blocks and mark the adjacent seamline locations on the wrong side of the sashing. Mark at each vertical sashing strip location across the quilt top width.

Markings on fabric — Mark adjacent sashing seamlines

Pin the next row of blocks in place, matching the vertical sashing seams to the marks across the quilt width. Stitch, removing the pins as you come to them and voila, perfectly aligned blocks.

Example of lining up sashing — Pin sashing at markings

May 28, 2021

Working with Pre-Cut Fabrics

If you’re a quilter, chances are you’re familiar with pre-cut fabric groupings, but if you’re not a quilter, the term may be new to you.

Pre-Cuts Explained

Free Spirit Kaffe Fassett fabric collection. Image used with permission.

Most manufacturers offer their lines in coordinated groupings of various numbers of fabrics—often including prints, solids and perhaps dots or stripes that all go together. For those reticent about their own abilities to coordinate and mix patterns and colors, pre-cuts eliminate that stress, as they’re all planned to go together and there’s no decision making required.

Choosing a pre-cut bundle is a great way to sample a multitude of prints without having to purchase yardage of each fabric in the line—a huge cost saver. In addition, using pre-cuts saves time—not only for shopping, but also because you don’t have to cut all the pieces from yardage. Because they’re all cut at the same time, the pieces are all the same size.

Pre-cuts usually include one or two pieces for each fabric in the specific line and generally total twenty to forty-two pieces of the same size. The groupings can be made from a single fabric line or they can be chosen for other similarities, like all dots and stripes, all batiks, various prints in the same color range, or sometimes all neutrals.

Sizing

Moda Fabrics Belle Isle Jelly Roll by Minick Simpson - Available in August, 2021 — Moda Fabrics Belle Isle Jelly Roll by Minickk Simpson. Available in August, 2021. Image used with permission.

These handy time savers come in a variety of sizes and with a multitude of name variations, depending on the manufacturer. Look for monikers like Jelly Rolls, Charm Packs, Layer Cakes, Pops, Stackers, Roll-ups, etc. Most are quilting cottons, but there are also bundles of wools and other fabrics offered.

Common pre-cut sizes include strips of 1 ½”, 2 ½” or 5” by the width of the fabric. Squares come in 2”, 2 ½”, 5”, 6” and 10” variations. In addition, there are die-cut triangles, diamonds and hexagons available, and of course the more familiar fat quarter (18” x 22”) and fat eighth (9” x 22”) options.

During the manufacturing process, fabrics are layered and either die-cut, laser cut or manually cut into the preferred size/shape. The number of layers being cut at once is dependent on how many fabrics are in a given collection, and if there are multiples given of any.

Many pre-cuts come with pinked edges to help prevent fraying {photo}, while others have straight-cut edges and may be plastic wrapped for the same reason. For those pre-cuts with pinked edges, use the peak to measure seam allowances, rather than the valley portion of the zigzag.

Using Pre-Cuts

Pre-cuts generally do not get pre-washed, as doing so can create a mess of lint and threads as pieces fray. But, if you compelled to do so, place them in a mesh bag and use a gentle cycle or simply place them in a basin of hot water to soak.

To help keep the edges of your fabric neater, use a lint roller along the edge of the pre-cuts before using.

There are many quilt patterns available that are specific to pre-cut sized pieces and they can also be used for all kinds of small projects where buying by the yard may not be necessary to cut the needed pieces. The 2 ½” x width-of-fabric strips are ideal for binding.

Measure the pre-cut pieces to be sure that they are accurately sized and if not, adjust pieces accordingly that you cut from yardage to pair with the pre-cuts. Some pre-cuts are actually larger than the stated size, while others may be slightly smaller.

And don’t forget—you can cut pre-cuts into small cuts if your pattern requires it. For example, a 10” pre-cut square can yield four 5” squares or sixteen 2 ½” squares, or some combination thereof.

Patterns

Sometimes a distinct pattern may not align with the cut edges on pre-cuts, causing the design to appear crooked. What can you do? If the issue is bothersome to you, think about recutting the piece along the design lines and using it as a smaller piece for another project.