Enjoy our 40 minute chat with Sarah McFarland of Threads Magazine. Shara shares her journey to her role as Editorial Director, as well as the incredible opportunity she has to mingle with some of the greatest talents the sewing world has to offer.
~Sheryl Belson
This is article 1 of a multi-part series focusing on three categories of fabric – fabric made from plants, from living things, and from minerals. This month – plants!
Plants (part 1) | Plants (part 2)
Living Things: Silk | Living Things: Wool | Other Living Things
Minerals: Acrylics, Polyester, & Nylon (part 1) | Minerals: Spandex and Rayon (part 2)
Did you know that the overall global textile industry is valued at nearly one trillion dollars? The plant-sourced portion of this market grows about 7% annually and now makes up about 1/3 of the total fabric market. It also can have an ecologically positive impact on our planet.
Processing leaves, stems, stalks, seed pods, and fruit into fabric is BIG business!
While some are common and have been around for ages (think cotton and flax), other fabrics made from plants are gaining popularity. With an increased demand for fabric that is cruelty free, as well as the environmental concerns associated with creating synthetic fibers, shoppers are turning to some of the oldest and most sustainable plant fibers.
If you answered ALL of them, you would be correct!
You will certainly recognize some of the plant sources such as cotton, flax (used in linen production) bamboo, and cork. But a few may surprise you. In Part 1, we are covering Cotton and Flax and have also included links to info on Bamboo and Cork.
Cotton is the natural textile fiber most widely used around the world. It takes center stage in the global textile industry, capturing about 25% of the market. And it is not a newcomer! Cotton was grown in Pakistan’s Indus Valley more than 5,000 years ago and was used to make clothing in ancient Egypt. Cotton is widely used in the modern fashion industry, both in flat fabrics and in woven clothing items and household textile products and it combines well with other natural and synthetic fibers, such as rayon, polyester, spandex, etc. Let’s face it… cotton is a fabric staple that is here to stay.
How is it processed?
Cotton comes from plants that produce seed pods filled with ball-shaped clumps of cotton fiber. The seeds are separated from the cotton fiber mechanically and then the threads are spun from the remaining, seedless white fiber. The resulting threads are then woven to make cloth, which can be dyed. To watch and learn more about the process, view this 6-minute video.
What about sustainability and the environmental impact?
The biggest bet of sustainability is the use of certified organic cotton. Organic cotton is more eco-friendly than non-organic cotton, as it uses less water and is free of chemical pesticides, insecticides and herbicides that may otherwise pollute waterways.
Where can you buy it?
You can buy cotton and cotton blends almost anywhere. This is one fabric you will not have any trouble finding. But to give you a few places to purchase with your ASG Member discount, check out these sellers:
Linen is another popular and common fabric, though it captures a much smaller market share than cotton. It is made from the fibers of the flax plant and is considered more of a luxury fabric than cotton. Egyptians used flax to create linen cloth more than 4,000 years ago and used it in both clothing and to wrap mummies. Today, flax is often blended with other materials to add strength or reduce wrinkles.
How is it processed?
Flax has leaves that consist of long, tough fibers. The procedure to turn the plants into fabric is labor intensive, which makes linen much more expensive than cotton. To get a peek into the process, watch this 2 ½ minute video from the V&A museum.
What about sustainability and the environmental impact?
Flax is one of the more promising developments in sustainable textiles since it can be grown with far less water and fewer pesticides than cotton and produced at a lower price.
Where can you buy it?
Like cotton, you can buy linen and linen blends many places. Buy it with your ASG Member discount from one of these sellers:
In Part 2 of Fabric Sources: Plants, we’ll cover some of the unusual and unexpected plants that are used to create fabric.
~Sheryl Belson
Ever wondered how to line-up/match the pattern of your fabric across seams? This 1-minute tutorial is a sure fire way to get it right!
As you read pattern instructions there may be some unfamiliar terms or worse yet, things that sound similar and you’re not sure what’s what. Let’s take a look at some often-confused terminology and set it straight for your next project.
Interfacing (woven, non-woven or knitted) is used anywhere more firmness or body is needed during construction—like in collars, cuffs, front openings, etc. It remains in the garment permanently. Sometimes entire garment sections like jacket fronts are interfaced to add body to the fabric.
Stabilizer is one of many types of products (knit, woven, non-woven; fusible or non-fusible; temporary or permanent) used to add body and support for a specific function, like machine embroidery or decorative stitching. Depending on the use, it can remain permanently in the project, or it can be removed once the function is complete, like using tear-away stabilizer under embroidery.
Stay tape is a narrow strip of woven or knit fabric used to stabilize an area and keep it from stretching. Common areas for stay tape use are shoulder seams, necklines and hems in knit garments; the front of a wrap dress or blouse, or lapel areas in a tailored garment. Stay tape can also be used to stabilize zipper areas in stretchable fabric and to keep pocket openings firmly in shape. Tapes can be sewn in (by hand or machine) or fused.
Basting tape is a narrow, double-sided adhesive product used to hold something in place temporarily while sewing. Most basting tapes are water-soluble, so they disappear after washing. A common place to use basting tape is to hold a zipper in place for stitching, especially in bulky fabrics like fleece, to hold a patch pocket in place for no-slip topstitching, or to temporarily hold binding in place.
Staystitching is a regular length straight stitch sewn through a single layer of fabric in garment areas that tend to stretch during construction—like armholes, necklines and bias-cut seams. It is sewn just a hair inside the seamline and remains in the garment.
Basting is a long straight stitch used to temporarily hold the garment together for fitting, or other reason why only a temporary hold is needed, such as applying a zipper or trim. Basting can be done by hand or machine and can be used any place for a more secure hold than pins provide. Basting stitches are also used to help ease fabric, like in a sleeve cap, or to gather it, like for a skirt.
Fusible web is a film-like adhesive sheet, often backed on one or both sides with a protective paper. It is frequently used for appliqué, hems and any place where a permanent hold is needed, other than sewing.
Fusible adhesive is a generic term that can include fusible web, but it can also include heat-activated glues or sprays, either permanent or temporary.
Ironing is something you do after clothes are laundered to get rid of wrinkles. It involves sliding the iron back and forth with pressure to rid the item of creases created by the washing/drying process.
Pressing is something you do during the sewing construction process to ensure a professional look to the finished project. It involves lifting the iron from one place to another, rather than sliding it, as the latter can stretch in-progress pieces out of shape. Pressing is often done from the fabric wrong side, like when opening a seam, or setting fullness in a sleeve.
Both pressing and ironing can be done with a dry or steam iron, depending on the fabric. Pressing cloths can be used to protect delicate fabrics during the sewing process.
Seam Guide/Seam Gauge
A seam guide is used to help keep an even seam allowance while sewing. It can screw onto the machine, attach magnetically or be incorporated into the presser foot. Temporary guides can be easily adjusted to change the distance from the needle to guiding edge. The term can also refer to the lines marked or etched on the machine needle plate.
A seam gauge is a short metal or plastic ruler with a sliding mechanism to indicate a specific measurement—especially helpful for measuring hems or spacing buttonholes.
Scissors/Shears
While both scissors and shears are designed with pivoting blades for cutting, the usual distinction is that scissors have blades shorter than 6” while shears have longer blades. In addition, scissors have two of the same-sized finger holes, while shears have asymmetrical finger holes, usually a large one and a small one. Shears are specific to left- or right-handed users, while scissors can be used by either. There are many specialty types of scissors and shears available.
~Linda Griepentrog
Linda is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and two dogs, Yohnuh and Abby. Contact her at gwizdesigns@aol.com.
Tired of hunting for the right stabilizer every time you tackle an embroidery project? This project is a great way to keep them clearly identified and within easy reach. Carmen DePalma, a talented educator and ASG member, originally created the organizer for the Marathon Thread Company and has shared it with us.
Sturdy Home Dec, Denim, or Canvas Fabric*
Additional Supplies
*If you prefer to use a lightweight fabric, you will also need:
Prepare the Pockets
For lightweight fabric, fuse interfacing to the pocket sections before you begin.
Construct the Hanging Loops
If using lightweight fabric, insert a strip of batting into each loop. This will strengthen the loop and help support the weight of the holder.
Position the Loops
Assemble the Base
Fold the base in half lengthwise, right sides together.Attach the Pockets
~Carmen DePalma, ASG Tampa Chapter
