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June 19, 2020

Sewing Basics: Scissors vs. Rotary Cutters

The great cutting debate

When it comes time to cut out your project, which do you choose, scissors or rotary cutters? Ask this question in any online forum or neighborhood group meeting and you will hear strong opinions on both sides. And those opinions often line up by what they sew: quilts or garments.

My mother was a garment sew’r and I was raised to use proper sewing scissors for the project. Scissors were the short blade (less than 8” long) cutting devices used for threads or short clips in fabrics. Shears had longer blades and were used for cutting fabrics. And heaven forbid that I should use the shears to cut threads and dull the tips of the blades! With more experience, I added pinking shears for finished seams, duck bill or applique scissors for maneuvering around small areas, and clippers which worked especially well for cutting threads close to the fabric.

I often see the beginning sew’r try to save money on scissors and shears, not understanding that a good quality cutting tool makes the job go much easier. While a new pair can be purchased from the dollar store, they simply don’t do the job that specially manufactured fabric shears do. Some reputable manufacturers are Fiskars, Gingher, Kai, and Wiss. Prices vary from as $8 to $130 or more.

What Options Do I Have?

While most scissors are designed for right hand use, manufacturers have become more accommodating to the left handers among us and have designed ones contoured for the left hand.

  • Those with arthritis or who do a great deal of cutting may choose the spring action feature that opens the blades after each cut and greatly reduces the effort required.
  • A contoured handle with soft grip touchpoints is another great feature which provides a secure, comfortable grip, while an easy-open lock helps protect the blades during transport and storage.
  • Some come with special carrying cases that sharpen the blades when scissors are placed inside.
  • Electric scissors allow you to cut the way they do in ready-to-wear and they take away the fatigue of opening and closing the blades entirely.
  • Some shears come with a laser pointer to ensure cutting in a straight line. Now, how is that for technology?

Whether using pins or pattern weights, shears are easy to use. Sometimes, however, especially for the new sew’r or in the case of slippery fabrics, shears lift the fabric off the surface and distort the cut. To combat this effect, manufacturers have redesigned the shape of the scissor and have raised and angled the handles so that blades can ride along the table more easily. To further insure a good cut, blades should also be sharpened frequently to prevent the tearing action of a dull blade. There are tools on the market to help with this, but a qualified professional will keep those scissors and shears sharp and smooth and ready to use. And the number one rule: NEVER use fabric scissors or shears on paper, even pattern tissue.

But if this is a debate, what about rotary cutters?

I got my first rotary cutter as a freebie in the mail. At the time, I knew nothing about them and tried cutting on a table. OOPS! I cut right through to the top of the table. First lesson: always put something underneath. I remember trying magazines and even pieces of wood under the fabric before giving up and tucking the cutter away. It may have come with instructions, but I certainly hadn’t read them, so I returned to my scissors. Thinking back, my attitude could be likened to Guy I Am from the Dr. Seuss book, Green Eggs and Ham. I indeed “did not like them, Sam I Am.”

By the time I purchased my first fold-up cutting table that came with a large cutting mat, I understood more about rotary cutters and how they should be used. Helping a friend in her craft business, she suggested using a rotary cutter to produce the long, even-width strips she needed for ruffling. Armed with a tool, mat, and plastic ruler, it was easy to work with the yards and yards of fabric and cut them into 6″ strips. This ease-of-use is the reason that rotary cutters have won the admiration of quilters. Since I often worked with knits, transferring this technique into cutting the ribbing for neck and waist bands was a natural jump.

The first cutters had a straight handle and a 28 mm blade. However, just as scissors have evolved, so too has the rotary cutter. Today they come in various ergonomically designed shapes that help reduce the fatigue and stress on the hand when doing large amounts of cutting.

Super Size Me!

Rotary cutters now come in 14, 28, 45, and 60 mm sizes. Why so many? Just like scissors, the smaller cutter makes it easier to maneuver around smaller shapes. The larger size is better suited for long, straight edges or thicker fabrics. Specialty cutters even come with blades that can produce a pinked or wavy edges. There is even a rotary cutter with its own mat-like feature attached that allows it to run between rows of stitches on multiple layers of fabric and make the cuts needed to create chenille.

Buy on Amazon

Olfa and Fiskars are the two most common brands of sewing rotary cutters, but others can be found on the market. The lower end models start around $8 and go up from there depending on their size and features. The electric ones come in around $40, and large ones that look like paper cutters used mainly in quilt shops for cutting quantities of fabric can go above $170. Because these cutters can handle up to 10 layers at a time, they make fast work of the tedious job of multiple cuts. And, yes, they are also available for the left hander.

Rotary cutters are not without some down sides. While they work great when cutting straight edges that can be aligned with a quilting ruler, it takes some practice to go around curves in both quilting and garment sewing. With practice and the right size blade, however, this obstacle can be overcome. What is a bit more cumbersome is using the cutter in conjunction with pattern pieces. Putting pins in the pattern creates an uneven surface for the ruler to be placed upon, and weights, if used, always seem to be in the way. I have even seen some brave souls use the rotary cutter instead of a seam ripper for taking out stitches, This requires some practice, but a sharp blade easily snips the threads that a seam ripper might otherwise just pull.

Quilting cottons are a natural for the rotary cutter, but even slippery fabrics can be tamed because the proper use of the ruler holds the fabric in place and allows for an accurate cut.  Of course some of this is dependent upon having a sharp blade in the cutter. While there are tools available to sharpen blades, I have found it best to simply change the blade which is easily done with the turn of a screw that holds it in place.

Perhaps the biggest drawback for this tool is the fear of cutting oneself on the blade. Today they are designed with retractable blades or covers to help prevent accidents from occurring; however, most users will admit to being nicked at one time or another by a sharp blade being in the wrong place at the wrong time.

So where do I stand in the great cutting debate? Like Guy I Am, I must say, I like them. I like them both, and “I would use them here and there, I would use them everywhere!”


~Rosemary Fajgier

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Tagged With: cutting, rotary cutter, scissors, sewing

June 12, 2020

What I’m Sewing: Tabula Rasa Jacket

Tabula Rasa JacketQ. Item Created 
A. Fit For Art Tabula Rasa Jacket

Q. Independent Pattern Designer
A.
Rae Cumbie and Carrie Emerson

Q. Fabric Used:
A. Kanthi cloth (from a spread)

Q. Special Embellishments/Notions Used
A. Buttons painted to coordinate

Q. Skill level required?
A.
 Intermediate

Q. Are the instructions easy to follow?
A.
The written instructions are very easy to understand, especially since the unique sleeves seem confusing at first. The instructions eliminate any confusion.

Q. Are you pleased with the finished result?  Did it meet your expectations?
A.
I was happy with the result and took my time daily to get the fit just right. The more difficult part was a fabric for the band and finding buttons during the Covid-19 pandemic.

Q. Did it look like the picture?
A.
 Yes.

Tabula Rasa JacketQ. Did you make any modifications in the pattern?
A.
 Yes, I did some adjusting as I went and changed from flare to straight to help the fabric hang better. Took in the sides (I’ll choose the one dart front next time). I added a contrasting turn up cuff to match the band. I added in seam pockets.

Q. Are there any changes you would have made?
A. The chosen fabric, though a nice pattern, in places has several layers of patching, etc. and I’d not use that particular fabric in the future for this. I still may remove a bit from the side back seams, but will wear for a while to decide.

Q. Did the pattern teach you any unique or special techniques?
A.
 I was tempted to make the insertable piping but glad I did not due to the adjustments I made.

Q. Would you make this again?
A.
 Yes, lovely pattern. I do like the sleeve design.

Q. Would you recommend this pattern to others?
A.
Yes


~JoAnne Lowe, Boston Chapter of ASG

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Tagged With: jacket, pattern

June 8, 2020

ASG Sensitivity Statement

ASG has a long-standing commitment to inclusivity. During these times of change, we publicly reaffirm our commitment to diversity and welcome all to our sewing family.

Click here to view our Sensitivity Statement

 

June 5, 2020

Tackling Tulle

Tulle tu-tu on a little girlWhether you’re making a flirty tutu, a long flowing wedding veil or decorating for a bridal shower, it’s likely some tulle will be involved in the process.

Like its netting cousin, tulle is an openwork fabric sporting allover holes for a transparent look. Netting has larger holes than tulle and it’s usually stiffer. Both are usually made from nylon, though some other fibers are often found in specialty stores. Both netting and tulle are available in wide widths—from 54” to 108”, so it’s economical to use both for garments and home décor.

When tulle is used in garments, it’s often used either over another fabric, or it’s used in multiple layers for deeper color and modesty. A single layer of tulle is almost invisible.

Tulle has no grain so pieces can be cut any direction. It also doesn’t ravel, so edges do not require finishing, unless for decorative purposes. Trims, such as lace, are often applied over the raw edges of tulle for interest and additional weight. When used on veils or as ruffles, tulle often has serged rolled hems and fishing line can be added for undulating edges.

Tulle edges can be scratchy, especially around a multi-layered gathered waistline, and kids are the first to express their discomfort with aplomb. Waistlines of tulle skirts are easily bound with ribbon or fabric to prevent the itchy distress.

Pressing

Because of its fiber content, tulle requires extra care during pressing to remove any bolt wrinkles. It’s a good idea not to press directly on the tulle, but instead use a lightweight pressing cloth and a low-temperature iron. Before committing to a pressing method, test on some scraps.

Cutting

To cut tulle, it’s best to use a rotary cutter, ruler and mat for a perfectly straight and even edge. Cutting with scissors can leave uneven or jagged edges. Hold the fabric in place with weights or a ruler while cutting. If you’re cutting more intricate shapes (other than the most-often used rectangles), pin tissue under the fabric, then cut through both at once to maintain the shape needed.

Sewing

Seaming tulle can be challenging, as the layers may try to shift at your machine. Large, flat-head pins can help, as can spring clips to hold the edges in place. If those don’t work, then add a layer or tissue paper or water-soluble stabilizer under the area to be seamed.

Speaking of seaming, with tulle being translucent, all seams are obvious. It’s best to opt for a narrow seam with exactly matching thread, or even clear thread. However, sewing a narrow seam is not without its challenges either—often best to sew a slightly wider seam, then trim to make it narrower.

Use a small needle for tulle sewing and a longer than normal stitch length. If the toes of the presser foot tend to catch on the fabric’s holes, put transparent tape on the bottom of the presser foot, or switch to a roller foot for unhindered feeding.

Gathering can be done my machine or by hand. If you’re gathering by hand, use a large needle and a heavier thread and make even stitches through the mesh openings. Threads can easily pull out in the gathering process so be sure to knot securely at one end. Or, if your tulle project has a layer of other fabric with it, gather both at the same time for easier handling.

If you’re trying to apply a trim to a cut edge of tulle, prevent slipping by using a fabric glue stick to secure the trim in place before sewing.

Other Tulle Uses

In addition to the usual places you find tulle, it’s also a good base to use for machine embroidered laces and trims. Pair it with a water-soluble stabilizer to hold it in place for stitching, then remove once the design is completed. Look for designs specifically digitized for lace.

Tulle is also ideal for gift wrapping—you can purchase it in spooled strips of varying widths to tie up packages and wrap chairs for festive occasions. Use it as you would ribbons and scrunch and tie as desired. Strips of tulle are also ideal for making small gift bags to hold holiday treats or favors—just seam both sides and tie the top. Tulle strips can also be used to make fluffy pompoms and flowers for party décor.


~Linda Griepentrog
Linda is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and two dogs, Yohnuh and Abby. Contact her at .

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Tagged With: fabric, tulle

May 29, 2020

Stretching Yourself: Using Elastic Thread

We’re not talking about aerobics, but using elastic thread! Building stretch into a garment is easy with this thin, stretchy strand and a little ingenuity. Sections of your project, like yokes, sleeves, cuffs, waistlines and bodices are all likely candidates for shirring.

Shirring refers to sewing multiple parallel rows of stitching using elastic thread in the bobbin.

Shirring on distressed denim
Shirring using elastic thread on distressed denim

Shirring Tips

Shirring works best with lightweight fabrics, like voile, linen, etc., but you can also do it on lightweight denims and silks.

Look for elastic thread at the notions counter of your favorite store. It’s available in black and white. Some knitting stores may offer elastic thread in other colors. If you have elastic thread in your stash, double check it before use, as elastic can deteriorate over time.

Wind the bobbin by hand, not using the machine’s standard mechanism. Don’t stretch the thread while winding, but also don’t let it be too loose or you won’t get good shirring results. Fill the bobbin as far as possible, but be sure the thread doesn’t extend beyond the bobbin edge. If you’re doing a large project, wind multiple bobbins at once.

Insert the bobbin into the bobbin case and thread it like normal. Place regular thread in the top of the machine. Set the stitch length from 3 to 5mm for test stitching.

Test-stitch on the right side of the fabric and adjust the stitch length and tension as needed to get a look you like.

Draw lines on the right side of your project so that the stitched rows begin and end inside the seam allowance of the garment. You can draw multiple lines, or use a quilting guide for spacing, or the width of the presser foot.

Elastic thread

Pull out about 2” of elastic and top thread to begin the stitched row. Sew along the first marked line, sewing slower than you normally do. At the end of the row, pull out 2” of elastic thread and top thread as well. Do not use the automatic thread cutter with elastic thread and do not backstitch. Tie off the threads on both ends of the stitching line. Repeat for all the marked lines, keeping the fabric flat as you stitch subsequent rows.

If you run out of bobbin thread while sewing, simply tie off the thread ends and start sewing with a new bobbin where you left off. Anchor the new threads in the same manner by tying off securely.

When all rows are stitched, steam the elasticized area to create the final shirring effect. Set the iron for steam and simply hover it over the stitched area right side to set the stitching and elastic in place. The steam causes the elastic thread to shrink up the shirring a bit.

Sew the seam crossing the stitched rows and stitch again 1/8” from the first line to securely anchor the ends.

Elastic thread can be machine washed and dried at temperatures under 200°. Do not put the iron directly on the elastic, as it can be damaged by higher heat.


~Linda Griepentrog
Linda is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and two dogs, Yohnuh and Abby. Contact her at .

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Tagged With: elastic, elastic thread, sewing, shirring

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