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Shelter in Place, Save Money and Sew!

You are living your best quarantine life, sewing up a storm and suddenly realize you are out of… or can’t find… or never had… something you need to finish your project. No matter what it is, you have no interest in going out into COVID world to pick up a spool of thread, a rotary cutter blade or a new pair of thread snips to replace the ones you must have dropped into the trash because they are nowhere to be found.

Now what?

Did you realize just how many of these things you can order online with a member discount?

We combed through the entire list of Special Offers just for members on ASG.org and created this table with the companies who carry some frequently needed sewing notions for you to have at your fingertips. Be sure you visit the members only Special Offers page to get the discount code to use when you place your order. Now it’s your turn! Go replenish your supply from the safety of your own home and enjoy great discounts while you do.

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Click the image to open full size pdf file

~Sheryl Belson

Time to Make the Masks

I relate to life in music, TV shows, movies, and media in general. For the past few weeks, when I woke up, I felt as though my life was the movie Groundhog Day. Remember when Bill Murray relived his day over and over again and couldn’t get out of the loop? That’s the way I feel with this Coronavirus quarantine. I am reliving the same day — OK, different date — but the same bad dream EVERY DAY.

Then, this morning I awoke with the old tv commercial from Dunkin’ Donuts bouncing through my thoughts. Do you remember the one where the baker rose every morning with the mantra, “Time to make the donuts. Time to make the donuts?”

My mantra is
“Time to make the masks.”

In the Groundhog Day movie, Bill Murray tried to vary his loop by doing different things and even improved himself along the way. It got me thinking, “How can I vary my mask making?” How can I remove the hum-drum from this mass production sewing project? What can I do to get creative?

Did I forget something?

Another thought also crossed my mind. I have been so focused on making masks to donate to an organization with which I am affiliated, I hadn’t even made any for my family. So now I was on a mission. Masks for the grandkids, kids, hubby, in-laws and maybe even me.

Hubby had already made it very clear that he was far too careful (substitute macho here) for the virus to get him. The teenage granddaughter thought it just wasn’t cool (my word, not hers). And the four year old grandson—a  mask wouldn’t make it to his face unless it had an aspect of play involved. Sew, what’s a “sew’r” to do? Customize, of course!

Fabric Stash to the Rescue

I pulled out my fabrics and matched fabric to people.

  • My youngest grandson at 4 is crazy about dinosaurs and I just happened to have a scrap of dinosaur fabric that was large enough to make the face part of the mask. One down!
  • Middle grandchild is 9, loves Mickey Mouse and the color red. My stash proved useful again with the themed fabric.
  • What about that 16 year old? I had made her pajama pants for Christmas, so there were still some scraps of Dr. Who fabric left. It might not be cool to wear a mask, but Dr. Who anything was definitely cool. Since her dad was also a fan of the Doctor, they soon had matching masks.
  • Mom loves Tigger from Winnie the Pooh and I know there must be some Tigger fabric somewhere (I’m still searching). If that doesn’t turn up, my other son just had me make him pillows with the Marauders’ Map fabric from the Harry Potter movies. Those leftovers would be good for the both of them.
  • I can’t forget my sister-in-law. She loves chocolate. What would be better than Hershey’s Miniatures fabric?
  • Finally, what about hubby? He teaches chemistry, but I know I just don’t have anything in the way of test tubes or chemical symbols. What to do, what to do? Just as I was about to give up, I found some fabric with eagles on it. Both our sons are eagle scouts and he works with the scouts on advancement of the eagle candidates. Sounds like another match.

custom face masks

Rosemary matching outfitI spent the rest of my day “playing” with my fabric stash. It was fun — really fun remembering all the things I had made with the original purchases and it brought variety to what had been a boring mass production effort. And the results were very special, very unique masks that matched everyone’s personalities. With fashion statements like these, perhaps masks will be viewed as a fashion accessory instead of a health necessity. Can you see it now, designer masks that everyone will soon be wearing? Or perhaps the next challenge in your chapter fashion show?  Maybe it will even be the first challenge on next season’s Project Runway.

Oh, and for me, if this virus situation continues, I will soon have a mask to match every outfit!

Stay safe, stay healthy and keep on sewing!

~Rosemary Fajgier

Can Silks be Washed?

One of my college classmates was a very recent immigrant from Korea and she once asked me to help her wash her “dance kimono.” Naturally I was eager as it is “common” knowledge that silks should never be washed. What I learned continues to influence my sewing today.

Her kimono was pieced of over 50 strips (up to 3″ in width) of silks, plus bindings (such as strips edging the collar) in different colors. Because the dyes were not colorfast, she had to take the entire kimono apart and wash every color separately, then press and sew back together with long stitches.

Lesson 1

Wash all fabrics separately until you determine whether the dyes are colorfast (like sweatshirts!).

Lesson 2

Don’t complain if a Western-style garment needs to be pressed after washing ─ doing laundry really could be worse.

The collar area was doubled fabric; it did not have a separate interfacing material and the excess was not secured so kimono collar would wrinkle and bunch up if washed.

Lesson 3

Baste or quilt any intact original kimono collar to wash. If making western style garments, make sure interfacings are secured. If deconstructing kimono to re-purpose fabrics, the collar probably has double the visible fabric.

Obi (belt) is generally the most elaborate part of the costume. It is also very stiff, the purpose is partly like a corset. For a light-weight silk, the stiffness is provided by covering a very dense canvas-like fabric, which is always blocked to retain the original size – unless you don’t plan to reassemble the obi.

Stitch lengths

Lesson 4

Unseen construction materials affect whether silk (or any) garments can be washed, so pre-shrink.

Some silks reveal textures that may not be apparent until wet. These fabrics may have quite subtle matte/shiny differences due to threads that are spun differently and thus shrink at different rates. All of these silks are intended to be blocked when washed.

Lesson 5

If you like texture, enjoy, even if you now have less fabric! Better to adjust plans than to finish and then shrink.

The following are things I’ve learned from deconstructing and re-purposing obi and kimono.

Both obi and kimono fabrics are woven in widths of 10-14 inches, and the garments utilize that to the fullest. The rounded corners of sleeves are left square and not trimmed, with the excess fabrics bunched up in the curved area.

Curved corner on a sleeve

If smaller sizes of kimono are made, seams are made extra wide but not cut off. If extra width is needed an entire extra panel of fabric may be sewn into the side and is not cut or could be half the width, with very wide seam allowances. Extra length will probably be turned up on the inside to replace some of the lining fabric. All of this is to take advantage of taking apart garments to wash, as when re-assembled fabrics can be turned to even out wear or to change the fit/size. No worries if you gain or lose a little weight; alter each time you wash!

Seam allowances

Most of the rolls of fabric were made specifically for either obi or kimono, with pre-planned cutting marks. Bolts of fabric are a new concept. This means that the fancy portions of obi could be in the only area(s) that show, while plain fabric is woven for the rest. Do not assume the entire length is what is seen on the outside.

Some fabrics such as brocades and jacquards may fall apart or unravel if cut. This is not a problem for kimono or obi as the fabrics are nearly always left with selvages intact, with the exception of obviously pieced dance and fancy garments.

INSPIRED? Antique Pattern Library has antique kimono fabric designs and stencils in the “J” and “K” sections.

Lesson 6

Test a small cut before re-purposing kimono or obi; particularly be careful if threads are carried on the back. Also examine carefully to locate any possible embroidery and avoid cutting through that area. Embroidery threads may not be colorfast so know it could possibly bleed when washed, particularly true on ornate garments.

Examine carefully if there are any metallics. If painted/stenciled it could be metallic leaf that is not washable as it will flake off. If the metallic is woven in, test first but the threads are probably washable if of the same weight as the other threads. If the metallic threads are heavier or if embroidered, it is probably NOT washable due to the construction method of heavier metallic threads.

There are several ways to use for garments: (1) kimono are wrapped and tied, so many people can wear as open jackets/vests without altering; (2) side inserts can be added to keep the front area intact: use the bottom of long kimono, sleeves, linings, parts from a second kimono, other fabrics; (3) I’ve taken kimono apart completely and re-sewed into large enough blocks to cut Western-style blouses and jackets.

~Hope Wright, ASG Member, Springfield Lincolnland Chapter

What’s a Lining to Do? (Part 2)

In Part 2 of this article on linings, we’ll be reviewing Interlining and Underlining and why you might choose each one for your project. (Review Part 1)

While you can find all sorts of various definitions for these terms, for the purpose of this article we will define them as follows:

  • Underlining is cut from the same pattern pieces as the garment fabric. The two are then sewn to one another so the two layers act as one piece, reducing opacity or adding body/stability to the fashion fabric.
  • Interlining refers to material added between the outer fabric and the lining of a garment. You would typically use it to add extra warmth, but it can also ramp up the body or change the drape of a piece.

Underlining

When do you choose it?

Example of underlining a garmentChoose underlining when you want to add body or stability to your fashion fabric or when you fashion fabric is thin and needs more opacity. If an underlined garment is also lined, you have basically moved to interlining instead of underlining. I personally use this technique as a quick and easy replacement to both traditional lining and flat lining. I don’t like the feel of a free hanging lining as I wear a garment. By underlining with Bemberg or China Silk, I get the feel and garment protection of lining without that pesky lining crawl each time I stop at the restroom.

What fabrics work best?

  • Choose a fabric with a similar or lighter hand to the fashion fabric unless you want to change it.
  • If underlining a thin knit fabric or stretch lace, consider using nude swimsuit lining

How does it get constructed?

The construction method for underlining mirrors the information already described for interlining.  The primary difference is that when underlining you seldom trim the underlining fabric out of the seam allowance since it is rarely a bulkier fabric.  Plus, since underlining in the context of this article is not covered with lining, you will want to serge or otherwise finish the seams.

No matter which lining process you use, always remember to pre-treat and press both your fashion fabric and your lining fabric in the manner you plan to launder it after construction to be sure you don’t have shrinkage, especially uneven shrinkage, which would cause distortion in the shape of your garment.

And when hemming your garment, take advantage of the extra fabric layer to hide your hemming stitches in the lining fabric instead of the fashion fabric.

Interlining

When do you choose it?

Choose interlining when you need to add warmth or stability to your garment. This method is in essence a third layer of lining as the garment usually also has a traditional lining that covers the interlining.

What fabrics work best?

  • Add warmth by using Primaloft, Thinsulate, batting, flannel or fleece.
  • Add body and prevent fabric stretch with Silk organza
  • Prevent creasing with light nylon net
  • Add drape with thin fabrics made with acetate fibers
  • Add density with cotton lawn
  • Change shade with light weight cotton lawn in a contrast or darker color

Consider using different interlining fabrics in different parts of a garment. For example, flannel in the jacket front and back, but a batiste or lightweight broadcloth in the sleeves to maintain drape and movement in a silk jacket.

How does it get constructed?

Simply cut the interlining fabric using the same pattern pieces and baste to the wrong side of the fashion fabric or the lining fabric inside the seam allowance then proceed with the construction treating the two fabrics as one. It is advisable to not only baste the outer edges of each pattern piece, but also the center of any darts to prevent them from shifting when sewn.

Tip for basting around corners: When you come to a corner, back stitch and clip your thread. Then start your basting on the next side with a new thread. Continuing around the corners with a single thread can cause distortion and make it harder to remove your basting later.

The decision of whether to attach the interlining to the fashion fabric or the lining depends on the garment type. For a fitted or semi-fitted garment, attach the interlining to the fashion fabric, especially if it needs more body or stability. For a loosely fitted garment, you may prefer to attach the interlining to the lining which will still add the warmth without reducing the fluidity of the fashion fabric.

While the basting can be done with a sewing machine, this sometimes results in a fabric “bubble” due to fabric creep as it travels through the feed dogs. Hand basting will often be more effective in achieving a truly flat alignment of the two fabrics. You may find it helpful to pin the pieces together not only along the edge but also down the center and along the darts. And it is important to baste these together while lying on a flat surface, not holding them in your lap. These tips can help prevent distortion and a potential “bubble” effect in either the fashion fabric or the lining.

Once your basting is complete, give the pieces a good press with plenty of steam to assure they are joined nice and smooth without bubbling. If you find any bubbling, now is the time to remove some basting stitches and correct it before you move forward with the construction process.

Trim interlining seam allowance close to the stitching line to reduce bulk. Depending on the garment and the interlining fabric; you may also want to trim the interlining away from facings and hems as well.

Enjoy your newly lined garment!

~Sheryl Belson

What’s a Lining to Do? (Part 1)

Lined skirtSo here you are, making a pencil skirt with that precious fabric you brought home from your recent trip. It’s luscious and precious and you want to construct it with care. You have some specific objectives and need to plan what are you going to do to make it:

  • Slide on like silk
  • Have a beautiful finish on the inside
  • Protect it from stress and wear over time
  • Minimize wrinkles during wear

I suspect right about now you are thinking – LINE IT!

And that is an outstanding idea, but line it how? Will you select a traditional lining, an underlining, flat lining, or an interlining?

ARGH! What’s a sewist to choose?

No worries! Take a deep breath and read on. This article will help you understand the difference between each of these techniques and choose the one that is best for your purposes every time. While you can find all sorts of various definitions for these terms, for the purpose of this article we will define them as follows:

  • Traditional Lining is constructed separately from the garment and attached by hand or machine, hiding all the inner seams. It can be totally free hanging from the facings, neckline or waist or it can also be attached at the hem.
  • Flat lining cuts the vertical seam allowances ½ inch wider than the fashion fabric and “wraps” the fashion fabric creating a faux Honk Kong seam finish.
  • Interlining refers to material added between the outer fabric and the lining of a garment. You would typically use it to add extra warmth, but it can also ramp up the body or change the drape of a piece.
  • Underlining is cut from the same pattern pieces as the garment fabric. The two are then sewn to one another so the two layers act as one piece, reducing opacity or adding body/stability to the fashion fabric.

In Part 1 of this article, we take a close look at traditional lining and underlining. In Part 2, we cover Interlining and Underlining

Traditional Lining

traditional lining

When do you choose it?

Choose a traditional lining when you want to completely conceal all the inner construction details of the garment. It makes the garment slide off and on over the body or other garments with ease and helps reduce wrinkling as the garment is worn. Sometimes the lining is a bit of a design element of its own. Take a simple wool jacket up a notch with a fun lining in an amazing print!

What fabrics work best?

Lining fabrics should typically be made from a silky material. Great choices include:

  • Silk or Polyester Charmeuse
  • Silk Crepe de Chine
  • China Silk
  • Bemberg Rayon
  • NOTE: It is best to avoid a silk lining with a silk garment as silk on silk may result in static cling.

How does it get constructed?

Construct the outer fashion fabric and inner lining shell separately, then attach them at the facings, waistband or neckline. The lining can hang freely or be attached at the hem. It can be machine or hand sewn in place. The wrong side of the lining is always inserted facing the wrong side of the fashion fabric.

Flat Lining

Flat lining exampleWhen do you choose it?

Choose this method when you want the benefits of a lining but don’t want it to hang freely. It offers the same benefits to the garment as both traditional lining and underlining regarding reducing wrinkles, adding stability and longevity to the garment. This method also produces a finished seam on all vertical seams that looks much like a Honk Kong seam finish. This technique is only applied to the vertical seams of your garment, so the waist, neckline or armscye will not have the same finish. It is an excellent method to use with fabrics that are highly prone to fraying as it encases the cut edge prior to construction.

Note: When researching information for this article, I found quite a bit of reference to historical flat lining which, in essence, is the same as the underlining method described in this article. If you are involved in historical costuming, don’t be confused. Just recognize the different use of these terms in this article vs. much of the information presented in historical costuming resources.

What fabrics work best?

The very same fabrics used in traditional lining can be used for flat lining.

How does it get constructed?

  1. Cut your lining fabric ½ inch wider on each vertical seam, resulting in a piece that is 1 inch wider in total.
  2. Sew vertical edges together with ¼ inch seams. Remember, the lining is larger than the fashion fabric; it will not lay flush together.
  3. Trim the seam allowance in half to 1/8 inch.
  4. Turn the piece right sides out and press, leaving the fashion fabric completely flat. The lining fabric will wrap around to the front of the fashion fabric creating a faux Hong Kong seam finish.
  5. Stitch in the ditch if desired. I frequently do not need to do this, but if you feel like the fabric is shifting, this will stop that.
  6. Continue construction of the garment, treating the pieces as one. Don’t forget to reduce your seam allowance on the vertical seams by 1/8 inch since you trimmed that much off in step 3.

Look for Part 2 (coming March 27) where we cover Interlining and Underlining

~Sheryl Belson

American Sewing Guild
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