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June 7, 2024

DIY Needle Sorting Pincushion

Needle Cushion

The thrill of selecting a pattern, snagging that perfect fabric, and retreating to your personal haven of creativity to craft a spectacular piece is unrivaled. Whether gorgeous garment, cozy quilt, chic handbag, or comfy pillow, the journey is the reward. But sometimes we just need that immediate ‘sew’-phoria from a quick and easy project. This project takes a humble tuna can and gives it a recyled life as a super-handy organizer cushion for your sewing machine needles. And the best part? Each section is labeled for different needle sizes and types. No more guessing games of “what size needle is this?”

Materials

  • Empty tuna can-6 1/2 oz. size
  • 1/4 yd. decorator fabric
  • 1 1/3 yards 1/8″ ribbon
  • Perle cotton or similar cord
  • 24″ small cable cord for piping
  • Fiber fill, scraps of batting, or other pincushion filler
  • 6″ square of iron-on tear away Stabilizer

Cut from Fabric

  • 24″ x 1″ crossgrain strip to cover cord for piping
  • 4 1/2 ” circle
  • 9″ circle
  • 3″ x 22″ strip for puffing
  • 3″ x 11%” strip for lining

Cut

  • 24″ Cable Cord
  • 30″ Perle cotton
  • Eight 6″ pieces of 1/8″ Ribbon

Sew

Puffing Strip

  1. Snap on a gathering foot. Set stitch length for approximately 2 to 1 fullness. Try stitch length 5, tension 7, and sew a practice sample. Measure it before and after stitching. If it gathers up to half the original size, you have 2 to 1 fullness. Adjust length and tension as needed. The longer the length and tighter the tension the more fabric will gather. Because softer fabric gathers more easily, prewash fabric that is stiff with sizing.
  2. Gather both long edges of 3″ x 22″ puffing strip, stitching 5/8″ from the edge. The feed teeth are what make the gathering foot gather. You must have the fabric under the entire width of the presser foot. This is the reason for a full 5/8″ seam allowance on each edge. Do not help the fabric by pulling it from behind or holding it beside the foot as this flattens the gathers as they try to form. It is easy to make beautiful even gathers if you keep your hands in front of the foot.
  3. Piping – Snap on a piping foot. Return the tension and stitch length to normal. Make 24″ of piping by wrapping the 1″ wide strip of fabric around the cable cord and placing it in the groove on the underside of the foot, raw edges to the right. Stitch with a straight stitch.
  4. Sew piping to one long edge of the puffing strip with a 5/8″ seam allowance. Lay the piping on top of the puffing strip, right sides together. The raw edges won’t match, but there is no need to pin as long as the piping is laying in the groove on the underside of the foot. Simply keep the edge of the puffing strip at the 5/8″ guideline, and the piping will be guided as you stitch. Adjust your needle position slightly to the left to cover the previous stitching. Trim seams to less than 1/4″.
  5. To sew the remaining piping around the 4 1/2″ circle, clip the piping seam allowance to the stitching and sew with the piping foot and 1/4” seam allowance. Set the needle stop down on your sewing machine to make it easier to stitch those tight curves. For less bulk at the overlap, pull out and cut off 1/2″ of the cord at the beginning and end of the circle so you can lap “cordless” piping at the ends.
  6. Sew the lining strip to the piped edge of the puffing strip by placing the lining right sides together with the piped puffing strip. The piping foot will find the piping right through the fabric. Trim seam close to stitching.
  7. Sew the other edge of the puffing to the piped circle, right sides together with the circle on the top. Begin sewing 5/8″ from the end of the puffing strip and sew completely around following the piping. Trim seam close to stitching.
  8. Snap on the regular sewing foot. Sew up the side seam to form a circle. Trim seam.
  9. Turn the piece right side out. It should look a little like a miniature chef’s hat.
  10.  Slip the tuna can inside and pull the lining over the edge.

Cushion

  1. Fold the 9″circle to form eight pie wedge sections. Mark these sections by pressing to create creases.
  2. Center a piece of stabilizer under the circle. Make a small buttonhole in the very center. Cut the buttonhole open with the buttonhole chisel. Write, stitch, or embroider the different needle sizes in each section with your writing sewing machine. Include size 90, 80, 70, 60, Wing, Twin, Stretch, Jeans, Embroidery, or other sizes and types you use most.
  3. Bartack the ribbon ends at the outer edge of the circle at each of the eight markings like spokes on a wheel. Pull opposite ribbon ends through the buttonhole in the center. Tie those ends to secure.
  4. Snap on a narrow braiding foot. Select a narrow zigzag, slip the perle cotton into the guide on the foot. Zigzag over the cord, being sure not to catch it with the zigzag going all the way around the outside edge of the circle at a 3/8″seam allowance. Drop the feed teeth and stitch in place at the beginning and the end to secure.
  5. Pull up the ends of the cord to gather. Put stuffing inside the circle in a doughnut form. Stuff firmly. Tie the cord ends tightly. Pull up the ribbons through the center of the stuffing and secure.
  6. Poke the cushion snugly into the covered tuna can and stick in needles! Remember not to save needles that have been used for one garment or more. And anytime you have a machine problem, change the needle and rethread.

~ Project used with permission from “America Sews with Sue Hausmann”

October 20, 2023

Project: Doris’s Adult Bib

Is there ever a day that goes by that you aren’t thankful for your sewing skills? Not here.

DorisWhen I first moved to my small coastal town, I discovered that the post office does not deliver mail to the town’s residents. “What?” But the more I thought about it, there was an opportunity for exercise and walking the mile-and-a-half circuit to the post office with at least one of our dogs, to retrieve the mail. Along the way early on in the adventure, I passed an adult care home and a lady was sitting on the covered porch in her wheelchair calling out “doggie, doggie!” So, I went up to the porch with the dog and we started to chat. I asked her how many people stopped to talk to her, and she replied “no one, but you.”

Over the four years I’ve lived here, on the morning walk to get the mail, I always wonder if Doris will be out on the porch…some days she’s there, other days not, mostly dependent on the weather. One day we were talking and I asked her when her birthday was—turns out it’s 10 days after mine! Hmmm…what can one do in celebration for someone who is not mobile and living in an adult care facility?

I had an “aha” moment and decided to sew up 10 fleece hats, telling her to keep her favorites and share the others with the staff and other residents (who occasionally sit on the porch as well). Those were a big hit and she’s been sporting several throughout the months when there’s a chill in the air. But I decided my next project for her would be an adult bib—winner, winner, chicken dinner as they say! I’m currently making her third bib, this year to celebrate her 81st birthday.

It takes less than an hour to make and choosing fun prints is easy as pie. You probably have everything you need in your stash. So, today I’m sharing with you how to make Doris’s bib! Think about reaching out to someone in your own community who may need a bit of cheer—the project is super easy, takes only a yard of fabric, and you can make it up in less than an hour.

Doris’s Bib

Adult bibChoose a washable and colorful busy print in a darker color to hide food spills, etc. There can be a theme to the fabric, like food motifs, or a sports print, or simply a favorite color that you’ve learned of through chatting. Doris’s favorite colors are pink and purple, and she has Crocs in both hues.

What you’ll need for each bib:

  • 1 yard print fabric
  • 1 package of double-fold bias tape (at least 3 ½ yards)
  • 1” hook-and-loop tape
  • Matching thread
  • Pattern tracing paper
  • Bib pattern (PDF format)

Making the bib

  1. Trace the upper bib shape from the bib pattern (link above). Continue the center front line so it’s 27” long, then draw a line perpendicular to the center front line at the bottom. Extend the side edge straight down to match the bottom line. Using a saucer, round the lower outer corner for easier binding. Label the center front.
  2. Refold the fabric to the width of the bib and pin the pattern center front to the fold. Pin the remaining pattern edges in place and cut out.
  3. Starting at the back tab, bind the bib edges. Use a narrow zigzag to ensure catching both the upper and lower bias tape edges. Place the needle in the down position to make it easier to adjust the bias tape around the narrow tab curves. Be sure the bib edge is inserted all the way into the bias tape.
  4. Press the bib edges to shape.
  5. Sew the hook portion of the fastener to the wrong side of the overlapping neck tab, and the loop section to the right side of the underlapping tab.

Some options:

  • Add a pocket from the extra fabric.
  • Choose a second print and make the bib reversible.
  • Make the bib from terry cloth fabric, but be sure to pre-shrink it. Choose an extra-wide bias tape due to the fabric thickness.
  • For a waterproof version, use vinyl fabric. It’s easy to clean with just a wipe.

This bib is also suited for groups needing a community service project—even beginner sewers can make it up easily. Set up an assembly line of cutters, binders and fastener attachers for mass production.


~Linda Griepentrog is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and three dogs, Yohnuh, Abby, and Lizzie. Contact her at .

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August 18, 2023

Fiber Fun Scarves

Thread lace made on water soluble stabilizer
Thread lace made on water soluble stabilizer. Photo courtesy of Sulky.

If you love fabric, there’s also a good chance that you love fibers of all kinds—yarns, novelty threads, ribbons, trims, cords, etc. Assuming that’s the case and perhaps you have some of those things in your stash, making your own scarves is a fun way to showcase a medley of those fun fibers.

Here’s what you need:

  • Two pieces of water-soluble stabilizer in the length and width you want your finished scarf. Fringe can overhang the length of the stabilizer. Self-adhesive types make the process easier.
  • Assorted yarns, threads, ribbons, trims serger chains and/or fabric bits to fill the stabilizer size. The patterning can be random or planned, dense or sparse, depending on the desired finished look.
  • Thread for stitching. Lots of options—embroidery thread, all-purpose thread, metallic thread, novelty thread, etc.; solid color or variegated.
  • Temporary spray adhesive if your stabilizer isn’t adhesive backed.

About the Stabilizer

Water-soluble stabilizer comes in several styles and weights—some are clear and film-like (think kitchen plastic wrap), others are more paper-like. For this project, the clear or slightly opaque stabilizers provide better visibility than the denser ones. Unless you plan dense stitching, the lighter weight ones work fine.

  • Some stabilizers are self-adhesive, meaning you can peel away a paper backing to expose the sticky side.
  • To make any water-soluble stabilizer sticky, use an allover temporary spray adhesive.
  • Water-soluble stabilizer came up to about 20” wide, depending on the brand and the packaging. For this project, that width is more than generous. Some water-soluble stabilizers are actually marketed as toppers for embroidery, but they will work fine for this project.
Yarns and threads on water-soluble stabilizer. Photos courtesy of Sulky.
Yarns and threads on water-soluble stabilizer. Photos courtesy of Sulky.

Design Notes

Fabric strip add-ins will fray less if they’re cut on the bias. But, if you like a frayed look, cut them on the straight grain. You can even fringe them before securing.

  • It’s not required to have ribbons, trims and yarn—you can simply create a scarf using stitching all over the stabilizer. If you opt for this technique, use a single layer of heavier stabilizer.
  • You can use multiple types and colors of threads to stitch together your scarf.
  • Want a bit more texture in your scarf? Incorporate wool yarn—it can shrink when you’re rinsing out the stabilizer and make a most interesting surface texture.

Yarns & thread layed out on water soluble stabilizer.

Making the Project

  1. Pink scarf made with fiber artLay out one length of stabilizer on a large table. Remember, the stabilizer should be the length you want the finished scarf, excluding any fringe. If your stabilizer is self-adhesive, place that side up.
  2. If your stabilizer isn’t self-adhesive, spray the exposed surface with temporary spray adhesive. It’s a good idea to cover your work surface with paper before layout, to protect from overspray.
  3. Cut the yarns, threads, etc. to the finished scarf length and position them on the stabilizer in a pleasing pattern. To keep the scarf shape, use a sturdy ribbon or trim along the outer edges. The design can be free-form and the strands can overlap, twist, etc. or they can be placed parallel to each other, or in a grid pattern depending on the desired look. You can throw in some fabric bits, stranded sequins or beads too. {pic of yarns laid out}
  4. If you want the scarf ends to be fringed, extend the length of the strands beyond the stabilizer length the desired distance on both ends.
  5. Spray the remaining length of stabilizer with temporary spray adhesive (if it’s not self-adhesive) and place that piece face down on your arranged fibers. Finger-press the layers together to encase all the yarns.
  6. Stitch the layers together. For the best stability of the finished scarf, stitch every ¼” or so. Stitching lines can go horizontally, vertically, diagonally and combinations of those, created either free-motion or using the presser foot. Just be sure to catch all the yarns in at least one direction. If you added beads or sequins, stitch near or over them carefully to avoid breaking a needle.
  7. Sew continuous lines of stitching, without breaking the thread at the scarf ends. This technique is much faster and there are fewer thread ends to deal with. You can secure all the embellishments and keep going until you finish covering the entire surface with thread.
  8. Once you’re satisfied with the look of the scarf, thoroughly rinse away the stabilizers following the manufacturer’s instructions. More than one rinsing may be needed.
  9. Lay the scarf out flat on a towel to dry. Trim and knot the fringe if needed.


~Linda Griepentrog is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and three dogs, Yohnuh, Abby, and Lizzie. Contact her at .

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May 18, 2023

Drape and Shape a One-Hour Vest (Preview)

East vestVests are a popular garment for good reasons — they go many places and serve many purposes, from dressing-up an outfit for the holidays, to giving a skirt or pants a fresh look, to adding a colorful layer to a plain top, and to keeping you warm. With these simple drape-and-shape techniques, you can quickly make vests that flatter your figure and go anywhere, depending on the fabrics and embellishments.

Drape-and-shape construction has been the favored method for making clothes since people started wrapping themselves with animal hides and cloth. From caveman to couturiere, those who create garments know the best is achieved by draping-and-shaping the fabric on the wearer’s body (or on a form of his or her body). The vest uses a few of the simple drape-and-shape methods which means that anyone, regardless of their size or shape, can create gently fitted, graceful clothes. Fit the garments for how you want the final shape.

The vest in this project is long and flowing (Figure 1) and is designed for a medium-large figure (39-42″ bust and 41-44″ hip); however, it is easy to change in length or fullness to fit your particular figure.

 

The full article is in the Members area of the website. CLICK HERE to read the full article. Not a member? Join online!

 

Tagged With: drape and shape, vest

February 24, 2023

Canine Capers: Sewing for Your Furry Friend

We all love to sew, whether it’s for ourselves, for friends, for gifts or for our homes, but sometimes our pets need a little sewing love as well. Both of these dog toys are great gift ideas for your own dog or grand-dog, and are also ideal for community service projects or donating to your local animal shelter. They’re easy-peasy so even beginners (and kids) can create them, making them ideal for scouting and other group projects.

Bone Appétit

Denim dog bone toy

This cute bone toy with a squeaker inside is easy enough for kids and other beginners to sew, and your favorite pooch will love to carry it around.

It can be made from fabric, but the featured toy is made from recycled jeans—you know, those denims that are too good to throw away, but for one reason or another you don’t want to wear them. The bone is a perfect place to showcase that contrast topstitching we all love, fun seaming locations, and even a mini-pocket or two, depending on the size of the jeans you’re starting with.

If you have an embroidery machine, this is an ideal project for personalizing. Do your embroidery work on a larger piece of fabric/jean prior to cutting the bone shape.

What you’ll need

  • One pair of jeans (or ¼ yard of sturdy fabric, which will make multiples)
  • Matching thread
  • One 1 1/8” squeaker
  • Polyester fiberfill
  • Hand-sewing needle
  • Bone Pattern

You can change the size of the bone to fit the dog—from smaller puppy size to giant doggo size. Add additional squeakers for larger sizes.

Squeaker on Amazon
Purchase this squeaker on Amazon.

Cutting & Assembling

  1. Trace the Bone Pattern onto paper or card stock. If you’re making a large quantity of bone toys, trace the pattern onto Mylar, then cut it out.
  2. Select a portion of the jeans you’d like to feature and position the bone pattern to showcase that feature. Trace the outer pattern edge onto the jean and cut out.
  3. Cut a second bone shape for the backing. This can use the plain jean fabric, or can also showcase seams, topstitching, etc.
  4. Place the bone front and back right sides together and sew around the perimeter using a ¼” seam allowance. Leave open a 2” space along the straight section of the bone. Clip the inside corner. Trim the seam allowances slightly in the curved areas.
  5. Turn the bone right side out through the opening and push out the curves to shape. Press.
  6. Stuff the bone shape firmly, leaving space in the center. Insert the squeaker and add more stuffing on each side of the squeaker so that the center is firm.
  7. Turn under the seam allowances in the open area. Using the hand needle and double thread, whipstitch the opening closed. It’s important that this is done securely so curious dogs aren’t able to tear open the seam and get to the squeaker.

WARNING: If your dog does tear open the toy, immediately discard it, so that the squeaker isn’t ingested. Save the squeaker for another toy.

Happy Dog Tip: If you used a portion of a jeans pocket to make your toy, tuck a small bone treat into the pocket to surprise your dog. This is also a great presentation for gift-giving!


Tug Toy

Simple braiding is the key to making this tug toy sturdy enough for even the strongest of dogs. Make it from denim or fleece for non-stop fun. No sewing involved, so it’s also ideal for young children to create for their pup.

 

What you need

  • 1/3 yard sturdy fabric, such as denim, fleece or canvas

Cutting & Assembling

  1. Drawing Cut three strips 3 ½” x width-of-fabric strips. Note: Fleece that’s 60” wide will braid up to about 40” of toy length.
  2. Lay the three strips together and tie a firm overhand knot about 2” from one end of the fabric strips. Pull the knot as tight as possible.
  3. Firmly braid the strips together until you get about 4” from the unknotted end. Pull the strips as tight as possible as you braid.
  4. Tie a firm overhand knot joining the strip ends. Trim the strips about 2” from the end.
  5. The length of the toy will depend on the original fabric width and how tightly you braid the strips. If it’s longer than needed, make one or more knots along the braided length to shorten it and add additional areas for the dog to grab at the knots, or stop braiding when you reach the desired length, tie the knot and trim the excess length.
  6. Grab one end and give your pup a tug-o-war!

~Linda Griepentrog is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and three dogs, Yohnuh, Abby, and Lizzie. Contact her at .

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Tagged With: bone, dog toys, pets

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