Sewing – Page 20

June 2, 2023

Eliminating the Waistband: Bandless Waist

If you hate waistbands, bandless waist garments may be your new favorite style. A bandless waist skirt, also known as a waistband-free skirt, is a style of skirt that does not have a separate or visible waistband. Instead, the waistline is created by folding and shaping the fabric itself, and the top edge is finished with a shaped facing or ribbon rather than a waistband. Also called faced or contour waists, this type of skirt offers a clean, streamlined look and can be a versatile addition to your wardrobe.

You can purchase patterns without waistbands, such as Vogue 1942 or 1683, or you can adjust your favorite skirt pattern to eliminate the waistband on a fitted pattern with darts.

Vogue Patterns — Vogue patterns with bandless waist.

In this article, we will be converting our traditional waistband finish to a bandless waist. The waist will be finished with scalloped-edge grosgrain ribbon that is turned to the inside. Be sure to read through the instructions before starting.

The grosgrain ribbon you purchase should have tiny, scalloped edges and needs to be 1″ in width. This type of ribbon is commonly known as Hatter’s ribbon and can be molded and shaped with an iron. Grosgrain ribbon with a straight edge cannot be molded and will not conform to the shape of the body.

Fabric Selection

Choose a fabric that is suitable for the desired style of the skirt. Consider factors such as drape, weight, and stretch, depending on the look you want to achieve.

Skirt Construction

Cut and construct your garment through the waistband step.

Step 1: Before applying the grosgrain, make sure that the waist of the garment measures 1″ to 1 1/2″ larger than your waist.

Step 2: Sew an ease-line around the waist at 5/8″ to ease in the fullness to your waist size.

Step 3: Stabilize the waist by sewing a piece of twill tape to the waistline seam on the wrong side of the fabric. Trim 3/8″ away from raw edge at waistline.

Step 4: Shape grosgrain ribbon with an iron, stretching one outside edge slightly as you press. This will allow the ribbon to sit comfortably on your waist.

Step 5: Fold under raw end of ribbon 1/2″ — a conventional seam is not used here to eliminate bulk.

Overlay the ribbon, folded edge out, onto the right side of the garment, matching fold of ribbon to the edge of the skirt opening and lining up the unstretched, lengthwise edge of the ribbon with the twill taped stitching line.
Topstitch the ribbon into place all around the waist, sewing 1/8″ from the edge of the ribbon, very close to the twill tape stitching line.

Step 6: Fold back 1/2″ on the ribbon end to finish it when you reach the side opening. Turn ribbon to the inside of the garment. Place over tailor’s ham and press. Try on the skirt and feel the comfort. Stretching and molding the ribbon before sewing is the key.

~ This article was adapted and modified from an article by Sandra Betzina from Power Sewing that appeared in a previous issue of Notions.

May 26, 2023

Fusible Thread Lines

Most sewers have fusible web in their arsenal of sewing tools, but in areas where you need only a teeny line of adhesive, check out fusible thread. Yes, thread that fuses. The fibers are activated by the heat of the iron, as they have a low melting point.

Fusible thread enables you to place a very thin line of adhesive exactly where you need to, without the mess of glue or trying to trim web narrowly. And, you can sew and serge with it to help get it where you need it. Do note, most fusible threads create only a temporary hold, until you sew permanently.

Name Game

Fusible threads are made by several different companies, and they look slightly different depending on the brand. Some are white, others clearer; some are tightly twisted, others not. Check your favorite sewing or quilting shop for these options: YLI Fusible Thread, Wonderfil Iron ‘n Fuse™, Gütermann Fusible Thread, Superior Charlotte’s Fusible Web and Floriani Press N Bond.

Fuse Use

Fusible thread can be used in the bobbin of a conventional sewing machine or in the lower looper of the serger, depending on the application, but always paired with regular thread. If you use it on a conventional machine, wind the bobbin slower than you would regular thread. Some brands of fusible thread can also be used through the eye of a large needle, but be sure to test-stitch to note any tension adjustments needed.

Fusible thread is always placed on the side of the fabric where fusing is needed for the final application, so note which side is up when stitching.

Fusible Applications

Non-sewing applications include placing a strand of fusible thread inside pleat folds to help create sharp edges. Or, add a thread inside a pant crease to maintain a perfect crease. A fusible thread strand is ideal for quickly “basting” a patch pocket in place for stitching.

If you’re applying narrow trims, fusible thread placed under the trim is just enough to hold it in place for stitching.

Matching plaids or stripes is easy peasy with fusible thread. Press under one seam allowance, position the fusible along the folded edge, overlap matching the design, and press. Then open out the seam allowances for regular thread stitching along the seamline. (Figure 1)

For garment sewing, fusible thread can be used in several ways. Use it for understitching—on the facing seam wrong side. After sewing, turn the facing to the inside and press the edge to melt the thread. Topstitch if desired.

When creating a narrow hem, such as at an armhole or on a ruffle, use the fusible thread in the serger lower looper. Position the fusible on the fabric wrong side, press the narrow hem in place, and stitch permanently using regular thread. This works for wider hems as well, as they stay in place for hand or machine finishing.

Do you have issues with zipper insertion, especially those centered applications? With fusible thread in the bobbin, sew a zigzag along the zipper tape edges so that the fusible is on the zipper right side. Center the zipper over the basted placket area and fuse in place. Add the permanent stitching with regular thread and voila—the zipper is perfectly centered without shifting. (Figure 2)

If you’re creating an appliqué, trace the shape onto the appliqué fabric right side. With fusible thread in the bobbin, sew around the appliqué shape. Trim very close to the stitching line, then fuse the appliqué in place on the base fabric. To finish it, use a decorative stitch or zigzag around the appliqué edge.

One advantage of using fusible thread for appliqué, as opposed to fusible web, is that only the outer edge is fused, not the entire shape. So, there’s less stiffness, and to reduce bulk, the area under the appliqué shape can easily be trimmed away if needed, or you can easily cut a slit in it to add stuffing for a dimensional look.

Quilters often use fusible thread for an easy binding application. Binding can be attached from back to front, or front to back. Stitch the binding to the quilt using regular thread. Then, use a zigzag with fusible thread in the bobbin to stitch the binding seam allowances together; the fusible should be on the unfinished side of the binding. Press the binding over the edge and fuse. To finish, topstitch or hand-stitch in place…no pins or clips needed to hold it securely in place while stitching. (Figure 3)

So, be sure that fusible thread stays close in your sewing room, as you’ll find all kinds of tasks to use it for!

~Linda Griepentrog is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and three dogs, Yohnuh, Abby, and Lizzie. Contact her at .

May 18, 2023

Drape and Shape a One-Hour Vest (Preview)

Vests are a popular garment for good reasons — they go many places and serve many purposes, from dressing-up an outfit for the holidays, to giving a skirt or pants a fresh look, to adding a colorful layer to a plain top, and to keeping you warm. With these simple drape-and-shape techniques, you can quickly make vests that flatter your figure and go anywhere, depending on the fabrics and embellishments.

Drape-and-shape construction has been the favored method for making clothes since people started wrapping themselves with animal hides and cloth. From caveman to couturiere, those who create garments know the best is achieved by draping-and-shaping the fabric on the wearer’s body (or on a form of his or her body). The vest uses a few of the simple drape-and-shape methods which means that anyone, regardless of their size or shape, can create gently fitted, graceful clothes. Fit the garments for how you want the final shape.

The vest in this project is long and flowing (Figure 1) and is designed for a medium-large figure (39-42″ bust and 41-44″ hip); however, it is easy to change in length or fullness to fit your particular figure.

The full article is in the Members area of the website. CLICK HERE to read the full article. Not a member? Join online!

May 12, 2023

Bobbin Storage

OK, raise your hand if your bobbin storage area looks like the photo below. Just what I thought…few hands in the air, and certainly not mine! Keeping these pesky little rounds handy and neat is an ongoing chore, but thankfully, there are some notions that can come to our rescue.

How you store your bobbins is a matter of personal choice—Do you like them safely attached to their matching thread spools, or tucked away separately with other like rounds? Either way, it’s possible to keep them neat and tidy.

Before you invest in a bobbin storage item of any kind, note the size of your bobbin, as some containers are specific to a size or bobbin type.

Separate Quarters

Little boxes with foam or molded inserts help to organize bobbins easily. See-through versions allow you to check out the contents without opening, and lids keep bobbins dust-free. Whether you have individual slots or long channels depends on the storage device.

Not into rectangles? Perhaps you’d like a donut instead. These pliable plastic containers allow for aligning bobbins around an open center space. Since they come in multiple colors, you can choose one for each machine you own.

Bobbin racks have wooden pegs that you can fill with your colorful rounds. Hang them on the wall or use a tabletop model, depending on your space. Or, put in a drawer to keep bobbins dust-free.

Some bobbin racks have flexible plastic snap-on holders that can be stacked.

Plastic storage tubes are yet another idea to keep bobbins organized and dust free. They’re also handy for toting to class when you just need a few for you planned projects.

If your machine has metal bobbins, there’s the option of a magnetic bobbin holder to keep them in place.

Togetherness

If you prefer to keep your thread spools and matching bobbins together, there are a host of options for this neatness. Some devices snap onto the top of the thread spools, while others push into the top hole in the spool.

60 Pieces Bobbin Holder Thread Spool Holder Stack Bobbins on Spool Tops

DIY Options

If you’re sew inclined, there are many ideas for creating your own bobbin storage device.

Empty pill bottles are ideal for dust-free bobbin storage and the clear ones let you see what’s inside. Just be sure to check the size of your bobbins to be sure they fit inside.

Pick up a multi-day medicine dispenser with mini-compartments perfectly sized to fit your bobbins.

Foam toe separators are a quirky option for bobbin storage, but handy if you just need to take a few with you to a class. The foam also keeps the thread ends in place.

For storing bobbins with thread spools, simply wrap a rubber band around the spool and around the matching bobbin.

A paper clip can be inserted into the top of a thread spool and through a matching bobbin for inexpensive togetherness. A pipe cleaner can be used in the same manner.

Visit your office supply store for a large metal ring that opens—simply thread the bobbins onto the ring for organized storage.

Wrapping Up

Bobbin Holders for Thread Spool Sewing Bobbin Small Clips Sewing Tool Accessory Clear Thread Clips Holder Tool

No matter how you store your bobbins, there’s always the issue of thread ends. But taming them is easy if you just get one of small wrap clamps available. Clip it over the bobbin thread for neat-as-a-pin storage.

Or, for a DIY option, get some small clear tubing from the hardware store and slice down one side. Cut it into length that fits your bobbin thread height, then snap in place around the loose thread end. {photo}

No matter how you store them, there’s always a cat or dog willing to unroll your bobbins at the most inopportune time, it seems.

May 5, 2023

The Humble Seam Ripper

Much as we hate to admit it, we all make mistakes, and sometimes those are stitching-related. But, luckily there’s a tool for that—the humble seam ripper.

Seam rippers come in many styles and shapes, but they all function in a similar way to remove errant stitches so we can fix whatever caused the error in the first place.

Anatomy of a Ripper

All seam rippers have blades of some sort for cutting, and they all have handles. Most rippers also come with a safety cap to protect not only the blade, but humans, when the tool is not in use.

Handles come in all shapes, sizes, and materials, so it’s a matter of finding one that fits your hand comfortably. Look for plastic, wood, or metal handles. Some rippers are flat on one side to prevent the tool from rolling on the table, others offer loops for hanging on a ribbon or cord. It’s a good idea to test out the “feel” of a ripper before purchasing it—is it comfortable in your hand?

Safety caps help protect the delicate ripper blade from nicks, moisture, and inadvertent drops to the floor. Some caps are attached to the tool for easy storing while others are separate.

If you’re ripping something out at night, and/or it’s a dark thread on a dark fabric, a built-in light is helpful for greater visibility. Look for this battery-powered accoutrement to help save your eyesight. Another helpful addition is a magnifier, especially if you have vision issues. A light and a magnifier together help get the blade to the right place in the stitching line.

Lighted, magnifiying seam ripper — Dritz Magnified LED Seam Ripper available on Amazon.

Sometimes rippers are combined with other tools, like tiny scissor blades, a stiletto or a needle threader on the opposite end of the ripping blade, so you get two tools in one device.

Hand-turned seam ripper and stilettos — Hand-turned wooden handle seam ripper/stiletto combination created by the author’s husband

But, probably the most important feature of a seam ripper is the blade that’s doing all the work. Look for rippers with a flat metal blade that look like a surgical scalpel—either curved or straight and with either permanent or replaceable blades. Another blade option is a U-shaped blade with a small plastic ball on one section of the point (to protect the fabric). The longer point extends beyond the shorter one to help guide the fabric as you rip. A third blade type is retractable, pulling itself into the handle with a slide lock. This adds a safety feature, especially if you have children near your sewing tools.

Slice Safety Seam Ripper with manual retraction, available on Amazon.

Using a ripper

There are multiple ways to use a seam ripper, but of course the ultimate goal is to remove the wayward stitching without harming the fabric. It’s easy to accidentally tear the fabric with the sharp point of a ripper, forcing another creative option for repair.

One common way to use a ripper is to slide the blade under a stitch at regular intervals, popping the thread. Cut every 3-4 stitches, pull out threads, and repeat along the length needed. Once you have removed all the threads, press the area to help remove the needle holes.

Accidentally made a hole in your fabric with a seam ripper? Restitch the seam just inside the previous stitching line to avoid any visible holes.

You can also use the seam ripper point to pick out the seam stitch by stitch.

Perhaps the fastest way to rip, but the riskiest, is to hold open the seam and slice down the stitches with the ripper blade. It’s hard for one person to do this, so use a “third hand” tool or get a sewing buddy to help you hold the seam open.

If you need to remove serger stitches, simply slide the ripper blade under the looper stitches and move it along the edge.