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July 9, 2021

Sewing: An Improbable Match of Math and Creativity

I teach Algebra

There, I said it. Go ahead, I’m used to the rolling of the eyes as well as both the internal and external groans. Such a pronouncement usually has one of two effects on the conversation:  It either stops it dead or leads to everyone sharing their horror stories of trying to learn algebra.

At first I try to redeem myself by quickly adding that I used to teach Accounting, but that usually resulted in adding to the drama, or clearing the room completely. So, for years I have tried to hide my association with anything mathematical. I’m actually not a real math geek. I majored in business and worked my way through college as a stenographer, but I found that math came easy to me and had a logic and balance that went well with my personality and love of sewing.

Yes, I just matched math with SEWING.

Thanks to my math ability, when I look at a pattern, the logic and sequencing of algebra helps me anticipate the steps in construction. I can almost see a garment coming together before I ever look at the instructions. It’s great for fitting — being able to quickly and accurately manipulate fractions allows me to tackle the most complicated adjustments over multiple pattern pieces. This quirky talent puts me in high demand during any fitting workshop.

Image of a sewist working with a pattern

My association with math also helps me to easily draw quilting patterns and design purses, tote bags, placemats, table runners, and more. While my non-mathematical friends are limited to patterns on the market that have predetermined sizing, I can accurately create items to fit the size I want rather than make do with what’s available. Math also helps in determining ahead of time if a piece of fabric is large enough to accommodate my design or I’ll need to adapt the pattern to fit the fabric. And when it comes to mass production, math allows me to calculate how many items I can get from a yard of fabric so that I can purchase just the right amount. (OK, so I rarely limit myself to just the right amount, but it does keep me from purchasing too little.)

Of course, blessings can quickly turn to curses and, more than once, math has made me the pariah at an ASG meeting. For example, many years ago when a friend discovered kaleidoscope quilts, she shared this wonderful new idea at our neighborhood group meeting and offered to order the plastic template we’d need to create the kaleidoscope effect. While everyone else was scampering around to pay the $25 for the template, I sat and stared at her pictures. Before I realized it, I heard the following words come out of my mouth, “That’s just an equilateral triangle with 60 degree angles.”

Silence. Dead silence.

My friend assured me I was wrong, and the only way we could create the true kaleidoscope was to purchase the template. On my 45 minute drive home, I reviewed my logic and calculations over and over and couldn’t see any flaws. At home, I got to work drawing a cardboard template and proceeded to make my own kaleidoscope motif. Then I set aside the $25 for more fabric. Yay me!

Who said geometry would never be useful?

As much as I tout the benefits of math, I must admit that its logic and balance occasionally get in the way of my sewing. That’s when the other side of my brain wants to take over the creative process. It’s often an internal struggle to allow myself the freedom to ignore symmetry and place an embroidery design off center or to color block with an abandon of precision. But when I’m fortunate enough to win this struggle, sewing becomes my blank canvas and I can see the many possibilities a piece of fabric provides. What does it want to become?  Does it want to be paired with another color, many colors?  What accent pieces will give it that “bling” that makes my project “pop?”  Making these decisions requires thinking outside the box. It’s not simply following the rules and balancing equations, but making decisions based on emotions rather than pure logic.

When I see the finished product, what pride and feelings of accomplish I achieve! And the more I create, the more inspired I become. Do you use all of your abilities and talents when you sew? Even the ones that aren’t “sewing” related? Remember that structure and rules don’t always have to be followed. Don’t just think outside the box, sew outside of it as well. For me, the blending of math and creativity activates both the right and left brain and keeps me alert and alive. That’s a high that’s worth experiencing, one that only sewing provides.


~Rosemary Fajgier

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July 2, 2021

Beyond the Basics: Serger Accessory Feet

If you use your serger only for finishing seams and you never change the foot, you could be missing a world of opportunities for other fun sewing adventures.

Cording FootLike your conventional machine, many sergers have accessory, or special-function feet available for a variety of stitching tasks. It’s important to know what feet you might have already included with your serger, so check the manual and any accessory boxes first. Then, do a little research with your dealer to see what other feet might be available. In addition to the brand-name feet, sometimes generic feet may fit your model.

If you’re shopping for specialty feet, you’ll need to know your serger’s model number, whether it takes screw-on or snap-on feet, and any stitch width limitations. Also, note that some tension adjustments might be needed when using some specialty feet, so be sure you’re comfortable with that.

Let’s take a look at a few available options, keeping in mind that all feet may not be available for all brands and models of sergers, and names may be slightly different between brands.

These feet were made for serging

Elasticator/Tape Foot

This handy foot not only helps guide elastic for you, but it also stretches it as you sew. Most feet allow you to adjust the amount of stretch, as it varies by the type of elastic. This foot is ideal for sewing lingerie, swimwear and athletic garments of all sorts. Note the elastic widths compatible with the foot, as some have a wider range than others. The foot can either serge over the elastic, or along one edge depending on the position adjustment.

Elasticator foot, image courtesy of Bernina

Blindstitch Foot

If you love making invisible hems by machine, but you hate guessing exactly where the fold should go and where the needle should be, this foot is for you, as it has an adjustable guide to keep things consistent as you stitch the hem in place. It guides the fold and can cut the extending edge in one pass for a neat hem on many fabrics. Note that serger blind hems work best on knits and other textured fabrics.

Blindhem foot, image courtesy of Bernina

Beading and Sequin Foot

Beaded edges are a piece of cake with this foot as it guides strings of beads or sequins along the edge of garments, bridal veils, etc. as it stitches them in place. Invisible thread works well with this foot for a no-see application.

Beading & sequin foot, image courtesy of Bernina

Beading & sequin foot, image courtesy of Bernina

Piping Foot

Who doesn’t love a beautifully piped seam? This foot is a slam dunk for both making the piping and inserting it into a seam. Note that there is a maximum diameter for the piping to fit the foot groove, so double check before purchasing. Some brands offer multiple sizes of piping feet to accommodate different cord sizes.

Piping foot, image courtesy of Bernina

Piping foot

Gathering Foot

Whether you’re ruffling sheer fabric or adding a ruffle to a flat fabric piece, this foot is helpful for both functions. Most are adjustable so you can control the gathering fullness while you finish the fabric edges at the same time.

Gathering foot, image courtesy of Bernina

Wavy Edge Foot

If you’re into dance costuming, eveningwear or bridalwear, this may be a must-have foot for you. There’s a hole to guide clear fishing line or wire so you can serge over it to create undulating edges, from smaller lettuce edging to full-on giant waves. It saves having to hold and guide the line on your own to be sure that the serging encases it without any nicks.

Lace/Trim Foot

No more trim wrestling needed with this foot, as the built-in guide places flat lace or trim along the edge with aplomb, allowing you to serge it in place. It’s adjustable for precise placement.

Clear Foot

Nothing beats a clear view no matter what you’re serging, and many brands offer a clear foot for better visibility with general serging.

All photos courtesy of Bernina. Used with permission


~Linda Griepentrog

Linda is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and two dogs, Yohnuh and Abby. Contact her at .

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Tagged With: serger feet, serging

June 18, 2021

Is Your SewJo Languishing?

What is a languishing sewjo you ask? I recently read articles in both the New York Times and NPR about this new condition. It’s apparently a real thing that isn’t depression but is a lingering state of “meh.” When I read it, I immediately thought – YES! This validates what I have been feeling!

My sewing room has been largely silent the past year. I just haven’t been able to muster up the enthusiasm and sense of sewing adventure I have come to enjoy for so many years. Where did it go? I have forced myself through making a shirt, a dress, and a quilt top since June 2020 — only 3 projects in the past year! I have been seeing reports of so many of our members sewing up a storm during their COVID quarantine life and, honestly, I have responded with mixed feelings of jealousy and guilt. I have wondered what is wrong with me.

dark sewing room

Life changed for everyone this past year. While my details differ from yours, the element of changed life is common to all. My husband recently commented that he hopes I get back to sewing one day. Ouch! That felt like a punch in the gut. Don’t get me wrong, my husband is my biggest fan and supporter so I wasn’t offended, but the reality of his statement is what punched my gut.

So now what?

Clearly, I am a work in progress so I can’t title this part as 5 steps to an Exciting Sewing Life. Instead, I can share where my journey is taking me.

Happy womanI decided to take a few steps that I hope will re-ignite the enthusiastic passion I have felt for sewing and that I miss and started exploring some new sewing adventures. For years I have loved being almost exclusively a garment sewist. Since pandemic quarantine life, I can’t seem to get excited about making clothes, so I’m going to try a few different things.

  • I want to finish up the last part of quilting a Bar Chart quilt top. Just finishing something will be energizing!
  • I have made several purses before, but when I saw the new Barbara purse pattern and kit from Sallie Tomato, I felt that old surge of enthusiasm. I purchased the kit, and it is on my cutting table to start right after I finish that quilt.
  • I recently learned about scrappy applique quilting by Shannon Brinkley and the artistic twist on quilting intrigues me. Maybe that will be the next thing I try

Appointment calendar imageI also decided to make a few sewing appointments with myself. If I schedule some time to dedicate to this craft I have loved so much, I am bound to experience those dopamine hits it has given me all those times before. But I have also promised myself a lot of grace as I reclaim what feels a little bit lost at the moment. No more jealousy — just appreciation for what others create. No more guilt — just patience as I explore what sewing adventures await while I gently reacquainted myself with my sewing room.

If the past year has been a season of incredible sewing, I salute you and appreciate what you have shown and shared. It has reminded me of all the possibilities! But if you slipped into a languishing sewjo as I did, I hope sharing my reality has given you space to think about how you might head back to your sewing room and reclaim the passion for sewing we have all shared. I can’t wait to see where we go!


~Sheryl Belson

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Tagged With: getting back to sewing, languishing, sewing

June 13, 2021

Sewing Basics: Sewing Machine Terms

It’s National Sewing Machine Day! Spend 17 minutes with us in this video and learn about 6 different parts of your sewing machine. Want to learn more? If you aren’t a member already, we hope you’ll consider joining ASG — we would love to meet and sew with you!


~Sheryl Belson

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Tagged With: bobbin, feed dog, hand wheel, presser foot, sewing machine, thread spool

June 4, 2021

Selvages: On the Edge

What is the selvage?

Selvages are the edges of woven fabrics—the place where the weft (crosswise) threads turn around to form the next row during the weaving process. Some selvages are thicker than the fabric itself, as often there are more threads per inch at the edges to help keep the edges straight during the weaving process.

Think of your fabric’s selvage as its DNA, with important information about it you may need to know.

Selvages may be the same color as the fabric, or they may be a contrast. Interestingly, contrast threads are sometimes woven in the selvages. On some velvets and velveteens, you may see metallic threads along the edges.

On high quality and imported fabrics, sometimes the requisite information like fiber content and country of origin is actually woven into the selvage in a contrasting thread color.

Selvages information
Image used with permission from Marcy Tilton

Selvages are not always straight—they can be fringed or looped, depending on the type of loom used and the finishing processes.

On fabric like denim where the warp (lengthwise) threads are a different color than the crosswise threads, the selvages may be totally different looking than the fabric body itself.

Information, please

You can find a variety of information bits on most selvages, but some have none. Look for the brand name, the designer’s name and sometimes the fiber content and/or care instructions, like “dry clean only.” You may also find the date the fabric design was copyrighted, and on printed fabrics, you may see lots of colored dots or shapes along the edge. These fun indicators tell how many different color screens were used in the printing process of the particular fabric.

  • Some selvage edges include the website for the fabric brand or a social media reference. Designers have even been know to add an inspirational message on the selvage.
  • In addition, home décor fabrics may show an indication of the repeat of the pattern, and sometimes an arrow showing which direction is up in the patterning.

Saving Selvages

Because of their tighter weave, the selvages may shrink differently from the fabric itself, so many people just cut the selvages off before cutting out the project.

While you can certainly trim and toss them, you can also use them creatively. If your project has a straight seam edge, you can cut it on the selvage to avoid raveling and perhaps add a decorative touch to the seam edge. A pant leg seam or a loose fitting, straight-cut jacket would be two great places to cut on the selvage for pre-finished seam allowances. Selvages are also a great edge for pockets or straight hems, either exposed for interest, or just as an edge finish.

Using the selvage on denim

Trimmed selvages are often used to stabilize a stretchy area—like a shoulder seam in a knit T-shirt. Lightweight woven selvages, like silk organza, are ideal for this use, as they’re sheer and don’t add a lot of bulk as they span the seamline. Interesting cut-off selvages can also be “reapplied” to an area as a decorative trim, often combined with ribbons, braids or decorative stitching. Fun selvages are also great to insert as a flat piping.

Selvages (with some attached fabric width) can also be used for bindings or garment ties.

Selvage pillow
C&T Publishing

Quilting Ideas

If you’re a quilter, perhaps you keep all your cotton selvages for other projects. It’s easy to strip piece them together on a lightweight backing to make quilt blocks or other projects. When you trim the selvage, leave at least ¼” beyond the actual selvage and use that for joining. Layer the strips one edge over the other and zigzag the edges in place through the backing until you fill the space needed.

Tennis shoes made with selvage edges

Crafting Ideas

For crafting, trimmed selvages are ideal for decoupaging onto projects—like basic tennies {photo}, picture frames, boxes, vases, etc. Just overlap the raw edge portion and seal with the medium.


Holey Moley

What are those holes along the selvage? They’re called tenter holes and they’re used to hold the fabric to a frame during the printing and finishing processes.

tenter holes


~Linda Griepentrog
Linda is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and two dogs, Yohnuh and Abby. Contact her at .

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Tagged With: fabric, selvage edge, tenter

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