It’s National Sewing Machine Day! Spend 17 minutes with us in this video and learn about 6 different parts of your sewing machine. Want to learn more? If you aren’t a member already, we hope you’ll consider joining ASG — we would love to meet and sew with you!
~Sheryl Belson
Selvages are the edges of woven fabrics—the place where the weft (crosswise) threads turn around to form the next row during the weaving process. Some selvages are thicker than the fabric itself, as often there are more threads per inch at the edges to help keep the edges straight during the weaving process.
Selvages may be the same color as the fabric, or they may be a contrast. Interestingly, contrast threads are sometimes woven in the selvages. On some velvets and velveteens, you may see metallic threads along the edges.
On high quality and imported fabrics, sometimes the requisite information like fiber content and country of origin is actually woven into the selvage in a contrasting thread color.
Selvages are not always straight—they can be fringed or looped, depending on the type of loom used and the finishing processes.
On fabric like denim where the warp (lengthwise) threads are a different color than the crosswise threads, the selvages may be totally different looking than the fabric body itself.
You can find a variety of information bits on most selvages, but some have none. Look for the brand name, the designer’s name and sometimes the fiber content and/or care instructions, like “dry clean only.” You may also find the date the fabric design was copyrighted, and on printed fabrics, you may see lots of colored dots or shapes along the edge. These fun indicators tell how many different color screens were used in the printing process of the particular fabric.
Because of their tighter weave, the selvages may shrink differently from the fabric itself, so many people just cut the selvages off before cutting out the project.
While you can certainly trim and toss them, you can also use them creatively. If your project has a straight seam edge, you can cut it on the selvage to avoid raveling and perhaps add a decorative touch to the seam edge. A pant leg seam or a loose fitting, straight-cut jacket would be two great places to cut on the selvage for pre-finished seam allowances. Selvages are also a great edge for pockets or straight hems, either exposed for interest, or just as an edge finish.
Trimmed selvages are often used to stabilize a stretchy area—like a shoulder seam in a knit T-shirt. Lightweight woven selvages, like silk organza, are ideal for this use, as they’re sheer and don’t add a lot of bulk as they span the seamline. Interesting cut-off selvages can also be “reapplied” to an area as a decorative trim, often combined with ribbons, braids or decorative stitching. Fun selvages are also great to insert as a flat piping.
Selvages (with some attached fabric width) can also be used for bindings or garment ties.
If you’re a quilter, perhaps you keep all your cotton selvages for other projects. It’s easy to strip piece them together on a lightweight backing to make quilt blocks or other projects. When you trim the selvage, leave at least ¼” beyond the actual selvage and use that for joining. Layer the strips one edge over the other and zigzag the edges in place through the backing until you fill the space needed.
For crafting, trimmed selvages are ideal for decoupaging onto projects—like basic tennies {photo}, picture frames, boxes, vases, etc. Just overlap the raw edge portion and seal with the medium.
What are those holes along the selvage? They’re called tenter holes and they’re used to hold the fabric to a frame during the printing and finishing processes.
~Linda Griepentrog
Linda is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and two dogs, Yohnuh and Abby. Contact her at .
Once you venture into the world of sewing and get comfortable with some of the basics, it is amazing to discover, like the popular Dr. Seuss book says – “Oh the places you will go!” Many an adventurous sewist has explored sewing on what some may consider unconventional things. As an example, take a look at the interview we did with Olivia Mears. She has used many unconventional items, like Taco Bell sauce packets and gift wrap, in her sewing. But there are certainly fewer unconventional items to sew with that will still feed your adventurous spirit. In this article, we will look at cork. leather, and wood.
Cork is a sustainable, natural product that is harvested from Cork Oak trees. When the trees are 25 years old (they can live up to 200 years!), the bark can be harvested and the tree regenerates until the next harvest in about 9 years. The harvested cork is processed by drying, boiling then gluing it to a backing before rolling it for distribution. Cork can be used for all sorts of projects, like handbags, pouches, and wallets. It holds its shape and is quite durable. And it’s surprisingly easy to sew on your home sewing machine with just a few helpful tips.
Jessica from Sallie Tomato made this 6-minute video with some great info about cork and how to get started with it.
Leather, made from animal hides or skins, comes from various animal hides, such as cows, crocodiles, pigs, even stingrays. Leather is durable, wrinkle-resistant, and will take on a different look/feel based on the type of animal, grade, and treatment. Sewing with leather may seem daunting, but with only a few tips, you can successfully make everything from bags, garments, and home dec.
For those of you who love to do machine embroidery, don’t skip leather as one of your options. Watch this 2015 video in the Members Only section for a simple starter project with lots of helpful tips. (You must be logged into ASG account before clicking the link so you go straight into the video).
If the idea of sewing with leather didn’t scare you off, you may be adventurous enough to try sewing on wood. No, you probably won’t be making a dress or a pair of pants from wood, but it can be used to make interesting accents, ornaments, box tops, home decor pieces, etc. And it certainly will be intriguing to show off at your next Neighborhood Group show-and-tell!
To help you venture “into the woods,” you need a few tips.
You can also embroider on wood with openwork designs. Simply secure the wood in the hoop with an adhesive stabilizer or temporary spray adhesive. Use a hoop larger than the wood section to avoid bending it and to keep it flat while stitching. To see an example of embroidery on wood, watch this presentation published in 2015 in our Members Only area. (You must be logged into ASG account before clicking the link so you go straight into the video).
Venture out into a new area and try one of these materials in your next project. We would love to see your results! Share them by emailing them to me at . If we get enough input, maybe we can do a follow-up story of all “the places you will go!”
~Sheryl Belson
Banks do it…utilities do it…credit card companies do it, and now you can do it in your sewing room as well! What is it? Going paperless.
With more and more sewing patterns available online in PDF format, you can have instant gratification without a trip to the local fabric store to get the latest offering. But, maybe the tedium of printing out all the pages, aligning guide marks, and taping the multitude of pieces together into a cumbersome giant paper offering isn’t one you relish. And of course, then you have to figure out how to refold all the pieces for storing for future use.
But, there is another way—projection sewing! Instead of printing, taping, etc., you simply project the pattern pieces directly onto your fabric and cut. The digital pattern file is stored in your computer for reuse anytime you want it.
First you need a projector mounted over your cutting surface. The projector can be ceiling mounted or it can be attached to a tripod, photo boom or some other kind of photo stand so that the projected image faces your cutting surface.
When you’re looking for a projector, check the image resolution, as the higher the resolution, the sharper the image will appear on your fabric. Check that it offers a remote, so you don’t have to climb up to the ceiling to make adjustments, like focusing. Also make sure that the projector can be operated in a vertical orientation as not all are designed to vent correctly in that position. Note the lumen output, as this determines the brightness. If your sewing room is brightly lit, look for a higher lumen setting.
Another important setting to check when purchasing a projector is the “throw”. This is the distance from the projector lens (not the ceiling) to your cutting surface to determine the clarity of the image. A short-throw projector is suitable for 3-8 feet, which encompasses most sewing situations.
When installing the projector, or placing it in a temporary holder, it’s imperative that the lens is level as well as the cutting table below it, to avoid distortion.
ConnectionBecause the PDF pattern file is in your computer, tablet or phone, you need to have a way to get it to the projector. Some projectors are wireless, others require a cable connection, others require alternate means of interfacing, so check that information before purchasing to ensure compatibility.
Any PDF pattern can work for projecting, but there are companies that make pattern files specifically designed for projection. These offer the pattern pieces in their final layout, with grainlines all going in the same direction, ready for cutting. There may be multiple pages to the pattern file, depending on what the project is and the size. If your fabric is directional, double-check that the tops of all pieces are going in the same direction, otherwise you’ll need to adjust before projecting.
Before you project the pattern pieces onto your fabric, it’s imperative to calibrate the projector so that the patterns show up at the proper size. Some projectors offer a calibration guide that you can project and synch with your gridded cutting mat to ensure the sizing, but those guides are also available online and with some PDF patterns. Usually there’s a 1” and 2” square to align with the mat grid, and some have keystones in the corners to ensure that there’s no distortion along the outer edges of the image. Once this process is complete, note the projector’s zoom setting needed for future pattern work.
You need to be proficient with Adobe Acrobat Reader (or other PDF app/program) to be able to rotate pattern pieces that may need to be changed for the layout, and to hide any layers of the pattern for all the sizes that you’re not using. If you’re projecting onto dark fabric, you may want to change colors (under Acrobat’s Accessibility options) so that the pattern lines show as white or a bright color on the fabric.
When any of those changes are complete, it’s time to hide the calibration grid, lay out your fabric and project the pattern. Align the fold with any projected fold line and be sure the edges of your fabric are squared to the cutting mat lines. If your fabric is slippery, you might want to use pattern weights to hold it in place during cutting. Then, simply cut out all the pieces along the projected lines. If there’s more than one page of pattern pieces, you’ll need to reposition the fabric for the subsequent layouts.
The big question—What about alterations?
Many of us don’t fit perfectly into a single pattern size, but you can still use projector sewing. If you have complex alterations for fit, such as shoulder or armhole changes, it’s best to project your pattern pieces onto large sheets (or a roll) of paper, cut out the pieces and make the necessary changes manually.
But, if you simply need to toggle between two sizes, it’s easy. For example, if you need a size 14 on the top and a 16 on the bottom, leave both size layers visible for projection and gradually taper between the sizes.
If you need to lengthen or shorten the pattern interior (like waistline length), that can be done while cutting. Using a removable marker, mark the designated lengthen/shorten line projected on the image just outside the cut line. As you’re cutting the pattern out, stop when you get to that line and slide the fabric in the direction needed so that the image is the requisite amount away from the cutting line end.
It’s just as easy to add length to the bottom of a pattern piece as well, just be sure to leave enough space on the fabric beyond the initial projected line, then slide the fabric to allow for the image placement at the requisite addition. Slide the fabric the opposite direction to shorten at the hemline.
~Linda Griepentrog
Linda is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and two dogs, Yohnuh and Abby.
Nancy Lee, an ASG member from the Princeton, NJ Chapter never thought she would retire from teaching and become a business owner doing what she loves—sewing. To be honest, she never really planned on becoming a teacher either, but both lucrative careers came about in the same way: someone suggested it, and off she went.
The seeds for her first career started when she was a young mom driving a school bus for the Trenton, NJ school district. One day, some of the teachers suggested that she join them inside the building as a teacher. While still driving a school bus, she went back to school herself and was soon majoring in English, then began teaching Science and Social Studies, eventually becoming the school librarian at Trenton High. After 17 years, she left her teaching position to be home with her husband, Dave, who had recently retired due to health issues after 47 years in the auto upholstery business for antique cars and street rods. And when he retired, she was gifted all his inventory of leathers and other supplies.
Like any truly dedicated sew’r, Nancy couldn’t let go of this newfound supply of fabric, so she started creating leather bags and wallets. While traveling in Virginia and carrying her own creations of a matching overnight tote and purse, she was stopped by a woman who not only admired her work, but offered to buy the bags. Nancy agreed that upon returning home she would make a set for the woman, but that wasn’t what the woman had in mind. She wanted THAT set. And, as the saying goes, she made Nancy “an offer she couldn’t refuse.” Nancy found herself heading home with her stuff in plastic bags while the woman went on her way with her new matching tote and purse. StitchLee now had a direction and a targeted audience—men and women who know what they want and are willing to pay for it.
Nancy found that her quality work on high-quality leathers and other fabrics was soon in demand due to sheer word of mouth, and it was spreading. She now has clients across the country from California to Massachusetts, and just recently added Hawaii as her latest location. Although she does have a website (StitchLee.com), she says that very few sales come from the site and she depends on satisfied customers who love to share their items with friends and then pass on her business information. The business continues to grow when a gifted item from a customer brings in a new client.
Nancy says that her customers want items that are uniquely theirs, things that are personalized to their interests, and she enjoys making these one-of-a-kind items. Take for instance her Wizard of Oz purse with multiple elements that tie it to the theme. The exterior of the purse is a soft tan stamped with the words “if the shoe fits.” When unzipped, the vertical zipper reveals the check from Dorothy’s dress and allows the bag to expand to an even larger size. The inside of the purse is lined with the ruby slippers fabric with the slip pocket highlighted with a tiny ruby. It’s these touches of whimsy and detail that distinguish her work from store-bought items.
Nancy’s business has grown to such an extent that her husband gave up his garage and converted it into her sewing studio. His support has been important throughout the launching of her business. To create her leather purses, backpacks, etc, Nancy uses a special sewing machine that works well on this thicker fabric. Her Dukop/Adler, pictured here, is her machine of choice when working with leathers. Again her husband came through and retrieved the machine when she found it for sale used. It is over 30 years old and she calls it her “workhorse.”
In addition to bags, Nancy also creates “memory” items for grieving families made from the clothing of their deceased loved ones. Pictured here are some of those items: pillows, stuffed animals, neckties, bow ties, and assorted bags. But it’s not all business for Nancy. While she says she will charge a bride for a purse made from Grandma’s antique wedding dress, she says she would never charge a sick child for one of her stuffed animals or dolls. Like most ASG members, Nancy continues to devote much of her time to charity projects. Shortly before the pandemic, she led a chapter charity day in which members created seat belt pads to cushion around the ports that are needed for chemo patients. This is an ongoing mission for her, one that creates the cushions which she donates to the patients at the hospital where her husband receives his treatments.
Whether hobby, charity work, or business, sewing continues to be Nancy’s passion in her retirement. What a great way to remain active, make a difference, and bring in an income all by doing what you love!
~Rosemary Fajgier
