Sewing – Page 45

July 31, 2020

Working with Snaps

Snap to it! Snaps, the handy two-part fasteners that we often don’t think much about, offer a multitude of options for garment closures.

Look for them in metal finishes (silver, gold, black or some colors) and in a multitude of plastic hues. There are also clear snaps available for greater invisibility and they’re ideal for prints, where choosing the right color can be tricky. When choosing metal snaps, be sure they are rustproof for durability.

Whether you use them for their intended purely functional purpose of holding two fabric layers together without visibility, or you use them artfully for a collage of added texture or a blatant “accessory”, the humble snap deserves attention.

Sew-on snaps come with two parts—a ball or knob portion, and a socket portion that accommodates the depth of the ball section when the pieces are pushed together. These are sometimes referred to as the ball and socket, or the male and female portion of snaps.

Size Wise

Snaps come in a variety of sizes from 1/8” diameter up to about 1 1/4” diameter. Most snaps are round with multiple holes around the perimeter, but some snaps are square, hexagonal or novelty shape, like flowers, hearts, etc.

Looking to purchase snaps? Shop Ghees or the Sewing Place and don’t forget to check the Special Offers page for ASG member discounts.

Smaller snaps are thinner than their larger counterparts, and thus have less holding power, so match the snap size to the weight of the fabric and the durability needed for the closure.

Snaps utilize three different sizing systems, depending on the brand. Some are categorized by their fractional or metric size (i.e. 1/4” or 30mm), others utilize a ligne system where 40 lignes=1”, and still others are listed by a letter sizing system. It’s easiest to just look at the snap and decide its practicality for the intended use.

Attachment Options

Snaps go between two layers of a project opening and are normally concealed, though fashion trends vary and often snaps become a decorative feature. It’s a good idea to have interfacing in the area where the snap sections be applied for durability.

Mark the location of one half of the snap, noting that the ball portion usually is applied to the underlayer and the socket portion to the overlap, but some sewers prefer the opposite. For easier marking, attach the ball portion first, then chalk the extension and press in place over the underlayer to transfer the marking.

To attach the snap sections, sew in and out of the same hole three to five times, being sure that the stitching doesn’t go through to the outside of the garment. After one hole is secure, carry the thread through the fabric layers to the next hole and repeat the process for each subsequent hole before knotting the thread and burying the tails.

For a more couture finish, attach the snap sections using a blanket stitch to secure the holes.

Snap portions can also be attached by machine, much as you would sew on a button. To hold the snap in place for sewing, tape it in place, sew through the tape, then peel off when stitching is complete. Use an open-toe foot, set the machine for zero stitch length and a stitch width to span the hole opening and the edge of the snap. Stitch in place three to five times to secure, then move to the next hole. Note that with this method, stitching will show on the reverse side of the garment opening.

Covering Up

If you don’t like the look of a large metal snap, especially on a tailored garment, think about covering the parts. You can also purchase snaps in various colors that are pre-covered.

To cover a snap, cut a circle of tightly woven lining two and a half times the diameter of the snap for each section. Hand-sew a line of running stitches around the perimeter leaving long thread tails. Place the snap half right side down onto the circle and pull the threads to gather the fabric tightly around the snap section. Pull tightly and stitch the circle edges together. The gathered fabric portion edges are hidden under the snap when it’s sewn in place. Repeat for the second snap half. To expose the ball portion, push the snap halves together and separate the fabric threads. If your covering fabric is prone to fraying, use a toothpick and add a very thin line of seam sealant around the base of the extension.

Sew on the snap sections as you would an uncovered variety.

~Linda Griepentrog
Linda is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and two dogs, Yohnuh and Abby. Contact her at .

July 24, 2020

Sewing Basics: Getting to the Point of Pins

Do you know the different types of pins?

Pins may not be the most exciting item in your sewing box, but they are a vital tool to anchor your fabric when you are sewing. When choosing the type of pin to use, there are several elements that should be considered as each type of pin is made with unique characteristics that target a specific purpose, depending on the type of project, the fabric used, or even how it’s going to be sewn. We will look at:

Head style
Length
Thickness
Point style

After a review of the characteristic of each, we’ll suggest four common pins you may want to keep in your sewing box to be prepared for almost any type of project.

Head Style

Pins come in three basic head styles, each with a different purpose. The choice comes down primarily to your need for visibility and ironing.

Flat/No Head: This type of head can be difficult to see but has the advantage of working well when you need to iron the project with pins in place since there is no head to melt. It is also a good choice for hand sewing as there isn’t a head for your thread to catch on.
Glass: Like flat head pins, glass pins are good for projects which need to be ironed with pins in place because the glass heads will not melt on the fabric. They also have the advantage of better visibility since there is a colored head that shows more prominently than flat/no head pins.
Plastic: These pins come in all sorts of brightly colored ball or flower shaped heads and are the easiest to spot on your project. If you keep that hot iron away from those plastic heads, they can be a great choice.

Length

Pin length is tied to the thickness and layers of fabric you are working with. The thicker the fabric and the more layers you are working with, the longer length pin you should choose.

Short and stubby: The shortest pins are about ¾” long. These work best for small delicate projects. Due to their short length, they are not well suited for anything other than the sheerest of fabrics.
Universal/dressmaker length: This is one of the most common lengths and will work well on most fabric types and thicknesses. They are 1 – 1 ½” long which is long enough to pierce through most fabric types but short enough to avoid bending too much as you pin through the layers.
Quilting length: These pins are longer since they need to handle multiple layers of fabric, as well as batting. They are usually 1 ½ – 2” long which can easily manage all those thicknesses.

Thickness

Pin thickness choice will be impacted by the delicacy of the fabric you are working with. Pins make holes so your fabric’s ability to recover from those holes drives your choice. The general rule is the finer the fabric, the finer the pin.

.4mm: This size passes beautifully through the finest of sheers.
.5mm: These may be called extra-fine, super-fine, silk, or satin. They are recommended for fine, lightweight fabrics, including some sheers.
.6mm: Most all-purpose pins are labeled fine and are best paired with medium-weight fabrics.
.7mm or .8mm: These may be harder to find, but the diameter is great for thicker fabrics like heavy wools, denim, and quilted layers. Just remember that they will make larger holes.

Point Style

The point style choice is directly impacted by the fabric you are working with, in particular woven vs. knit. Think about how you choose your sewing machine needle — one type for knits and other types for different wovens. The same logic applies in choosing the right pin.

Sharp: These all-purpose points work well with most woven fabrics in all but the more delicate weights.
Extra-sharp: These have a more defined, tapered point that will pass cleanly through the more delicate fabrics.
Ball point: Ball point pins are intended only for use with knits. The point is rounded so it slips between the loops of the fabric and does not pierce or pull the yarns.

What should you have?

Now that we know about the various elements of pins, let’s get to the point for what is a good mix to have in your stash of pins. With this variety, you will be well prepared to handle almost any project.

We suggest:

Glass Head: Keep a stash of universal glass head pins on hand. They will probably be about 1.5” long and .6mm thick which is a great choice for most projects and won’t melt if you touch them with a hot iron.
Ball Point: Keep a stash of these for your knit projects. They are likely to be about the same length as your glass head pins but are likely to have a plastic head since knits are much less likely to be ironed with a hot iron.
Silk: If silk or similar delicate fabrics frequent your projects, this is a good pin to include in your stash. In addition to having a delicate shaft, they usually have a flat head or no head so ironing over them is not a problem. Always test your pin on a scrap to see how the fabric recovers and keep pins within your seam allowance to help avoid unwanted holes.
Quilting: Even if you are not a quilter, these are good pins to include in your stash. They usually have plastic ball heads, but melting isn’t usually a concern since most ironing on quilt projects happens before and after pinning. And because quilts are usually made with a sturdy cotton, your fabric should be able to handle the heavier weight of the pins.

Now that you know the point of pins, you should be able to choose the right type of pin to use for your project.

~Sheryl Belson, ASG

July 17, 2020

What I’m Sewing: Danger, Curves Ahead Tunic

After months of working 12-hour shifts in the Covid side of the the emergency room of Jefferson Hospital in Philadelphia, nurse and ASG member Kendra Mochel said, “Thank goodness I had my sewing to come home to. It helped me de-stress and get away from all the illness I was seeing every day.”

And what has she been working on? Kendra said, “This year’s chapter challenge for our annual meeting was to reuse or repurpose something. I combined this challenge with the theme for the conference fashion show of ‘Who Are You Wearing?’ and decided to make a shirt I could use for both.”

The Pattern

Kendra started with the Danger: Curves Ahead Tunic from Cutting Line Designs by Louise Cutting. The pattern contains a long sleeve blouse and a sleeveless top which she had made before. For the repurpose aspect, she used an old damask tablecloth for the fabric. She says, “It was soft, draped beautifully, and I love the white on white design. However, it was a bear to work with, although it did help to starch the fabric like crazy. Luckily, I had one large and two small cloth covered buttons left from another outfit that I could use for this. And I also shopped my stash for lace that helped to balance the shirt.”

The pattern comes in sizes XS to XL. Kendra said she used the extra small for the bust size and medium for the hip area. “I did not want the pleats on the sleeve head, so I altered the pattern for a smoother look. The original pattern had a longer shirt length, but I shortened it by about three inches and added a gusset on the hips because I could not get the shirt to drape straight. I need to stop fooling myself about size,” she added. “Next time I will be using the next sizes up. I have a small wrist, but the cuff was still too small so I had to change the closure to a loop instead of a button hole.”

Design Details

Lately Kendra has taken to “slow” sewing, and she said this outfit certainly fit the bill. She embroidered the back of the tunic with a design that was built into her new Brother Dream Machine 2. While she said the instructions with the pattern were complete and clear, she found herself making several mistakes along the way. This may be due to her stress level from work. She admits to having to embroider the back twice because of using the wrong stabilizer the first time, as well as a mishap with her iron. Then she sewed the sleeve on inside out because she couldn’t determine the right side of the fabric. The lace was sewn on by hand, and she said this was definitely worth the effort because it adds the perfect finishing detail.

“The shirt was a lesson in patience, but I am glad I finally finished it.” With much determination she added, “At one point I thought this blouse did not want to be made. However, I will not be out done by an inanimate object. I look forward to wearing it with a pair of black pants and heels.”

~Kendra Mochel, ASG Member

July 10, 2020

Using Striped Fabric to Bind an Edge

It’s Stripe Hype!

Whether you’re binding a jacket front, collar or a quilt, using a striped fabric for the binding is a great way to accent the edge.

Stripes come in varying forms—from simple two-color versions to multi-color patterning, wide to narrow—but one thing’s for sure: they’re fun!

From the top: crosswise; lengthwise; bias

Stripes can be used three different ways for binding an edge: lengthwise, crosswise or on the bias. The choice depends on the desired finished look.

Using a stripe lengthwise on a binding showcases only about ¼” of the patterning, so for wide stripes, this use really isn’t a good option as you’ll likely see only one color. However, for tiny stripes, you can showcase three or four lines. Using a stripe lengthwise requires more yardage than cutting crosswise and/or more frequent seaming. You can use the entire fabric width and less yardage, but that strategy requires more seaming and matching end to end. The fun part—you can decide which stripes to showcase, but remember you’ll need to allow for seam allowances, so place the featured stripes accordingly.

Cutting binding crosswise is another option that showcases stripe repeats at right angles to the project edge. It allows for more visibility of stripe patterning and fewer seams are required with less yardage.

Many stripe aficionados prefer to cut striped binding on the bias (a true 45° angle) for some diagonal interest. The amount of yardage required depends on how frequently you want to piece the strips, matching the stripes. Cutting striped binding on the bias allows it go smoothly around curves, which is not the case with the horizontal or crosswise cutting, as those grains are suitable only for straight edges (like most quilts) rather than curves.

Piecing

In almost all instances, unless you have a short edge to cover, binding needs to be pieced to make enough length for the project. It can be pieced in two ways: with diagonal or horizontal seams.

Diagonal Seaming: While diagonal seaming makes for flatter binding because seam allowances are offset and not on top of themselves with multiple layers, it can be more difficult to align stripes with this bias seaming.

Crosswise Seaming: For crosswise stripe fabric strips, it’s easier to get a more invisible seam if you use horizontal piecing, sewing strips end to end. This technique also allows for a regular repeat of the stripe. To create a horizontal seam, place strips right sides together matching the same stripe on both layers. Stitch down the center of the stripe, trim the seam allowances to ¼” and press open. If you stitched accurately, the seam should be almost invisible and show a continuous stripe pattern along the binding.

Finishing

Once you’ve pressed your binding in half and sewn it the edge, first press it toward the edge you’re covering. Then fold it to the underside and hand-stitch the folded edge of the binding to the back side of the garment, quilt, etc.

For a quicker finish, fold the binding to the underside, pin or clip securely so that the underlayer is slightly wider than the top binding, and stitch in the ditch of the seamline where you initially attached the binding. Because the binding underside is slightly wider than the top, your stitching should easily catch the folded edge to secure it. Using transparent thread (either smoke or clear) works well for this, especially if your project is multi-color.

July 3, 2020

Serger Piping

Pipe it Right

Perhaps you’ve never looked beyond the standard foot on your serger to see the other possibilities of this mighty little overlocker. Did you know you can actually make and install foolproof piping?

Check your instruction manual or with your dealer to see about getting a piping or cording foot for your model of machine. It’s either a metal or plastic foot with a groove on the underside, which is the secret to the process. Depending on your serger brand, you may be able to get different sizes of the grooved feet, like 3mm and 5mm (referring to the diameter of the cord that will go into the piping).

The piping foot can also insert ready-made piping if you prefer not to make your own.

Check your serger’s instruction manual for specific setting for your machine. The following are general instructions.

Making Piping

Determine the length of cording needed for your project and add 6”. Cut the fabric strips the same length.
Cut a strip of fabric about 2” wide and on the bias grain if your piping will be going around a curve or a corner. Plaids and stripes look great cut on the bias as well. If the piping is simply being applied to a straight edge, cut the strip on the crosswise grain. Piece the strips together with a diagonal seam to achieve the final length needed and press the joining seams open.
Center the cord length in the center of the strip wrong side and fold over the upper fabric so the raw edges meet. Leave about a 3” tail of cord extending from the initial end of the mix, so you can hang onto it behind the foot.
Set the serger for either a 3-thread or 4-thread stitch, with a fairly open length.
Slide the cord end under the foot and nestle it into the groove, then pull the end behind the foot until you get to the wrapped fabric portion. Put the foot down and stitch! The groove guides the cord with precision, the blades trim off the fabric edges and give you an even seam allowance. Voila!

Inserting piping

Set the serger stitch length to a standard length (about 2.5mm).
Place the piping between the two layers of project fabric, either matching the seam allowance edges, or with the cord along the seam allowance. Slide the layers under the foot and again place the piping tail extending behind the foot. Start stitching about 1” from the covered piping end if you need to finish the end upon completion. If the piping end goes into a seam, then start at the end.
Keeping the layer edges together and the piping in the foot groove, sew the seam, encasing the piping between the layers.
If your project has a corner, stop serging about 2” before the corner and clip into the piping seam allowance (only) at the exact corner location. Shape the piping around the corner, but continue to serge straight off the end of the seam area. Remove the item from the serger, shape the piping around the corner, and reinsert the project into the serger at a right angle to the previously serged seam. Start serging again on the next side, and repeat at each corner.
If your piping project is continuous, like a rectangular pillow, stop serging about 2” before the place you began and finish the joining using your conventional machine.

PHOTO CREDITS: All photos courtesy of Bernina, used with permission