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January 29, 2021

Slick Tricks: Working with Laminated Fabrics

If you’re looking to make that perfect raincoat, try one of the great laminated fabrics on the market today. Colorful cottons with a clear coating are ideal for rainy weather attire, and a host of other projects from cosmetic bags to totes and aprons.

And you have options—laminated cottons come with either a matte finish or a glossy finish, depending on the brand and the desired look. In many instances, the same print is available in a non-laminated version, so that you can use it for facings, hood linings, binding, etc.

Although they do require some care when sewing, there’s nothing off-putting about these fun fabrics. Just be sure to purchase a laminated cotton, as opposed to traditional oilcloth fabric which has a heavier mesh base and is best suited for home décor items.

The coating on laminates makes them water resistant (not waterproof), and it keeps seam allowances from fraying. Some coatings are lightweight and others a bit heavier, so select the fabric by the intended use. Softer coatings are ideal for garments, as they’re more flexible than heavier ones.

Preparation

Photo courtesy of Cloud9 Fabrics

When choosing a pattern, look for simple lines and few seams, as well as raglan sleeves vs. set-in. There’s no room for error with laminates, so be sure the pattern fits you.

When you cut out your project, opt for pattern weights instead of pins, unless you keep them only within the seamlines as the marks are permanent.

Mark with chalk or soap slivers and never a tracing wheel, as that can damage the coating.

Sewing

There are some helpful notions for stitching these sticky fabrics. Spring clips, such as Wonder Clips, help hold layers in place without pinning, as do coated paperclips.

If sticking is an issue, opt for a non-stick presser foot, or put tape on the bottom of a regular foot to keep it moving. Sticking becomes an issue usually only if you’re sewing with the right side up, otherwise, the fabric should move smoothly under the foot.

Adjust the stitch length to slightly longer than normal and use a small needle to avoid large holes in the fabric.

Pressing isn’t an option for most laminates, so keep the iron away. To keep the seams flat, finger-press, then topstitch, either open or with seam allowances to one side. Topstitching is also recommended for all edges to keep them flat.

Photos courtesy of Cloud9 Fabrics

Finishing

If your raincoat requires buttonholes, interface the area with a sew-in interfacing (not fusible) and use the setting on your machine that produces a buttonhole with simply straight stitching around the slit. Any dense satin stitching can damage the fabric.

For hems, there’s no need to finish the edge as the lamination keeps the fabric from fraying—just turn up the hem evenly, clip it in place and sew one or two rows of stitching evenly from the folded edge.

On a tote, bound edges work perfectly—not only are they easy to do, but they also reduce the bulk of multiple laminate layers on turned-and-stitched edges.


~Linda Griepentrog
Linda is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and two dogs, Yohnuh and Abby. Contact her at .

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Tagged With: laminated fabric, learn to sew, raincoat, sewing, sewing tip

November 27, 2020

Fast and Easy Fringed Edge Finishes

If you’re looking for a fast and easy edge finish, there’s nothing easier than fringe! It works on single-layer placemats, scarves, patches and pockets, or with a little more effort, you can insert fringe into a seam or hem.

The results of fringing are not always what you expect, as some fabrics are woven with different color threads going lengthwise and crosswise, so you get totally different colors in one direction from the other. Denim is a good example, as white threads are usually used one way and indigo the other.

The Basics

Select a woven fabric (knits cannot be fringed using this technique). Fabrics like linen, burlap, gauze, wools and bouclés are ideal candidates. The looser the weave, the easier the fringing process.

  • To create a simple fringe, be sure your project edge is cut parallel to the fabric grain. Sew a line of stitching where you want the fringe to stop, then start pulling threads up to the stitching line. The stitching thread can match the fabric or contrast with it.
  • For easier removal, use a needle or a large pin to help separate the fabric threads and gently pull them across the fringed area. Note that if your project has a right-angle corner (like a scarf), there will be a gap in the thread fringe at the corners.
  • If you want to knot the fringe, either singly or with thread groups, allow extra length for that process. Test-fringe a sample to see how much length you need for either a square knot or an overhand knot.
  • For a top-fringed pocket, cut the pocket top on the straight grain and extend it the desired fringe length (no hem). For a fringed sleeve hem, determine the sleeve length, then extend the lower edge the desired fringe length, being sure to keep a straight grain edge.
  • Single-layer scarves can be fringe-finished on all edges or just the ends, like on a muffler.

Inset Fringe

  • Inserting fringe into a seam allows for more placement flexibility and allows for placing it on a curve as well.
  • To make a fringe strip, cut a straight grain strip the desired width of the fringe, plus the requisite seam allowance. Stitch and fringe as noted above. On very loosely woven fabrics, layer two strips for a denser fringe.
  • Use the fringe strip as you would a piping, basting it along one layer of the seamline with the fringe facing the bulk of the project. Then top with the second layer of the project, and sew just inside the basting line. When you turn the project right side out, the fringe will extend beyond the seamed edge.
  • For long fringe strips, simply abut the ends of multiple fabric strips as needed. If you need a bulkier fringe, layer two strips atop each other and treat as one layer.

Design Tip: inset fringe can be made from matching or contrasting fabric.

Trim Tactics

If desired, you can add a ribbon or trim along the stitched edge of fringe as an accent, whether it’s single layer or inserted into a seam.

Don’t forget to check the selvage of your fabric, as some have fun fringes that can be used as is, and they already match!


~Linda Griepentrog
Linda is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and two dogs, Yohnuh and Abby. Contact her at .

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Tagged With: fringe, fringed edges, jacket, jeans, knotted fringe, learn to sew, placemats, scarves, sewing tip

October 11, 2020

Fireside Chat: Anita Morris, Anita by Design

In this video, Sheryl Belson interviewed Anita Morris from Anita by Design. You will love Anita’s exuberance, authenticity, joy and sparkling smile! She shares her passion for helping people learn to sew, her unique way of planning her sewing projects, as well as how she has weathered some of life’s hardest moments. This chat is one you definitely don’t want to miss. You can follow Anita on Instagram and YouTube.


~Sheryl Belson

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Tagged With: learn to sew, sewing educator

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