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April 16, 2021

Do I Really Need a Serger?

When I first saw a home serger back in the 1980’s, I knew I NEEDED it! OK, maybe it was more WANTED than needed, but I definitely wanted one and my enthusiasm for this machine has only grown over the years. And while I treasure my serger, I’ve wondered why many sewists have never used one or, if they do have one, why it’s often stored in the back of the closet, still in the box. While we all love sewing, why do some just never take to this machine while others can’t live without it? April is National Serger Month, so let’s take a look at the serger and see what may be splitting us into advocates and critics and what we need to know to bring this machine in to the light.

April is National Serger Month

I saw that first serger at a Stretch & Sew class my mother had dragged me to in the hope that I might become interested in sharing her love of sewing. Mom was an amazing seamstress who could work miracles with a needle, thread, and fabric. She created garments, from tailored jackets and suits to gowns; home dec, including pinch pleat drapes; and even upholstery. And whatever she made was always perfect. For me, the tedious steps and handwork in sewing drove me crazy. But, for this particular trip, being out with Mom, even for sewing, was more fun than a day with restless kids and housework.

Enter Stretch & Sew

In this class, I learned that Stretch & Sew patterns were simple, the techniques were easy, and the serger made them even faster than a sewing machine. The instructor assured us that we could whip up a knit shirt in less than an hour. It was love at first sight! Unfortunately, my mother who normally loved new gadgets, was less impressed. It didn’t occur to me until later that when it comes to sergers, a person’s sewing interests and personality have more to do with their compatibility with sergers than simply their interest in sewing.

That Christmas, dad bought 2 sergers, one for me and one for mom. We took classes together and learned to operate this new machine and while I embraced it totally, she merely tolerated it. The serger’s ability to clean finish and construct a seam at the same time was a time-saving feature for me—a definite plus. Mom preferred the look of a pinked or other hand finished tailoring seam that she could do in the evening while watching TV. She didn’t want to let go of her traditional sewing methods and was an advocate of slow sewing even before the term became popular. For me, a young working mom with kids who had to be chauffeured, fed, watered, schooled, etc. though, the serger was a hobby I could do at home in those precious few stolen minutes of down time.

Having grown up in the Flower Power generation, I wanted the free flowing clothing that was easily constructed with the serger and I loved the sweatshirts and T’s I could make for the whole family. Knits became the lure that created my passion for sewing, especially since the serger and knits were made for each other. With the serger more suited to what I created than those tailored jackets that my mom produced, it was no wonder I began to explore more and more uses for my new friend. Sweater bodies (yarn knitted yardage) on the serger resulted in beautiful sweaters that looked hand knitted. When Stretch & Sew started focusing on more patterns for wovens that included instructions for working with sergers, I used these new methods for more business style clothing like dresses and blazers since I had gone back to a full-time job.

Don’t touch that dial!

In an early serging class I attended, the instructor frightened us into believing that the tension controls should never be moved. But why would the manufacturer make an adjustable dial that shouldn’t be touched? Although I’m not a rebel, it wasn’t hard to figure out that even if you adjusted the dial, it was easy enough to return it to the original setting by rotating back to the original number on the dial. A few years later, another instructor suggested we thread the machine with contrasting colors of thread, setting the tension dials to 0, and then changing just one dial at a time so that we could easily see what each adjustment did and which thread was affected. That empowering knowledge assured we could make the machine adapt to whatever fabric we were working with.

Many serger owners are a bit intimidated by the machine’s tension dials and, unfortunately, never learn its full capabilities. I’ve now switched from taking serger classes to giving them and I include the tips I learned in my classes so that no one is doomed to poor stitching just because of various weights of fabrics and thicknesses of seams. For those who use their machines for clean finishing seam allowances only, having to adjust the tension may cause you to move that serger to the back of the closet. The good news is that manufacturers recognize the worry about tension dials and many have now developed a self adjusting tension feature on new machines to alleviate that concern. Special sensors can determine the thickness of the fabric and automatically adjust the tension without the operator touching a dial. But even if your machine is missing that feature, don’t be afraid to rotate those dials and experiment!

But, now I want blue

The next biggest fear of serger owners is changing threads. On a 4-thread serger, the first two spools are for the needles. Threading the needle is much the same as it is a traditional sewing machine—the thread paths are very similar except for the telescoping guide above the thread cone. The remaining two spools are for the loopers (the thread path that comes from below and creates the overlock) and can be a little more involved to thread. However, most all machine have color coded pathways to indicate the proper thread paths so you can start at the spool and follow the same colored dots all the way to the needles. And just like the tensions, many manufacturers now offer air threaders that allow the user to insert the thread into a hole, press a button, then find the thread at the looper all ready to go.

So, do you need a serger?

A serger can be a little like a microwave. The microwave doesn’t replace the regular oven, and neither does a serger replace a regular sewing machine. While some sergers are only used for finishing seam allowances, they can also contribute to the creation of many clothing items, purses, totes, baskets, curtains, pillows, quilts, baby items, and masks, and can even be used to insert a zipper! I have used the serger to do rolled hems on garments and home dec items, and the flatlock technique has decorated shirts, inserted lace for a mock heirloom look, and created fleece blankets with “invisible” seams.

After so many years with this old friend, I guess I can say that I really did NEED that serger back then. And I do believe that anyone who sews can benefit from a serger if you only allow yourself to use it. So if you have a serger sitting in the closet all alone, bring it out for National Serger Month and explore all the possible ways you might be able to get acquainted. The ASG National Conference often features serger classes from some of the leading experts if you need some help. For inspiration, check out Gail Yellen and Deb Canham who have books, patterns, and YouTube videos available. Then take this brief quiz to determine your compatibility to sergers. The more “no’s” you answer, the more likely you are to enjoy a serger. Happy serging!

  1. Are you a traditionalist? Do you believe that all sewing must be done in the old, time tested methods?
  2. Do you prefer hand sewing to machine sewing?
  3. Are you intimidated by machines?
  4. Does playing with dials to see what they do scare you?
  5. Are you an advocate of “slow sewing”?
  6. Do you prefer to stick to what you know rather than try something new?
  7. Are you overwhelmed when you have to re-thread a sewing machine?
  8. Does playing with new techniques seem like a waste of time?
  9. Do you follow the “I can’t touch it, I might break it” philosophy?
  10. Are you content to remain sewing the way you always have?

~Rosemary Fajgier

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Tagged With: flatlock, overlock, serger

July 3, 2020

Serger Piping

Pipe it Right

Perhaps you’ve never looked beyond the standard foot on your serger to see the other possibilities of this mighty little overlocker. Did you know you can actually make and install foolproof piping?

Check your instruction manual or with your dealer to see about getting a piping or cording foot for your model of machine. It’s either a metal or plastic foot with a groove on the underside, which is the secret to the process. Depending on your serger brand, you may be able to get different sizes of the grooved feet, like 3mm and 5mm (referring to the diameter of the cord that will go into the piping).

The piping foot can also insert ready-made piping if you prefer not to make your own.

Check your serger’s instruction manual for specific setting for your machine. The following are general instructions.

Making Piping

  1. Determine the length of cording needed for your project and add 6”. Cut the fabric strips the same length.
  2. Cut a strip of fabric about 2” wide and on the bias grain if your piping will be going around a curve or a corner. Plaids and stripes look great cut on the bias as well. If the piping is simply being applied to a straight edge, cut the strip on the crosswise grain. Piece the strips together with a diagonal seam to achieve the final length needed and press the joining seams open.
  3. Center the cord length in the center of the strip wrong side and fold over the upper fabric so the raw edges meet. Leave about a 3” tail of cord extending from the initial end of the mix, so you can hang onto it behind the foot.
  4. Set the serger for either a 3-thread or 4-thread stitch, with a fairly open length.
  5. Slide the cord end under the foot and nestle it into the groove, then pull the end behind the foot until you get to the wrapped fabric portion. Put the foot down and stitch! The groove guides the cord with precision, the blades trim off the fabric edges and give you an even seam allowance. Voila!

Inserting piping

  1. Set the serger stitch length to a standard length (about 2.5mm).
  2. Place the piping between the two layers of project fabric, either matching the seam allowance edges, or with the cord along the seam allowance. Slide the layers under the foot and again place the piping tail extending behind the foot. Start stitching about 1” from the covered piping end if you need to finish the end upon completion. If the piping end goes into a seam, then start at the end.
  3. Keeping the layer edges together and the piping in the foot groove, sew the seam, encasing the piping between the layers.
  4. If your project has a corner, stop serging about 2” before the corner and clip into the piping seam allowance (only) at the exact corner location. Shape the piping around the corner, but continue to serge straight off the end of the seam area. Remove the item from the serger, shape the piping around the corner, and reinsert the project into the serger at a right angle to the previously serged seam. Start serging again on the next side, and repeat at each corner.
  5. If your piping project is continuous, like a rectangular pillow, stop serging about 2” before the place you began and finish the joining using your conventional machine.

PHOTO CREDITS: All photos courtesy of Bernina, used with permission


~Linda Griepentrog
Linda is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and two dogs, Yohnuh and Abby. Contact her at .

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Tagged With: overlock, piping, serger

February 28, 2020

Ending it All (serger stitching, that is)

We all love sergers for stitching and finishing our seams all in one operation. Those loopers and needles just seem to zing along the edges, but what happens at the ends is something to note. You can’t backstitch with a serger like a conventional machine. Do you just cut off the threads and hope for the best, or do you plan a neat finish for the threads that would make your home ec teacher proud?

There are several options for finishing the ends of serger seams, depending on the location and actual type of seam you’re using.

The easiest way to anchor serger threads is to cross them with another line of stitching. For example, if you’ve serged seams in a skirt, you’ll be crossing them with a waistband or facing and a hem finish. The perpendicular stitching is enough to hold the serger threads in place and keep them from raveling.

Another way to finish serger seams is to apply seam sealant to the threads, let it dry, then trim the threads close to the fabric. This is a great option for rolled hems or places where you don’t want other visible fastening of the threads. The down side of this method is that seam sealant can make the threads a bit stiff (depending on the product brand), it can be a bit messy to apply so best to do so with a pin to avoid getting it on the adjacent fabric, and you have to wait for it to dry before moving on in the construction process. (You can speed up the drying process by sandwiching the area between paper towels and pressing.)

How about knotting the threads? Good idea, and it can be done two ways. First, simply tie the serger chain in a loose overhand knot, use a pin to push it down to the fabric edge and tighten the knot to secure. Cut off the thread ends close to the knot. Depending on the thread and location, this can make a highly visible fastening. Another knotting option is to separate the threads from the serger chain so that you have them paired—one looper and one needle together, and tie a small knot with the two close to the fabric, then clip the ends. This makes a more discreet knot than the overhand version, and is great for decorative threads or outside stitching.

Yet another option is to thread the serger chain ends back through the serger stitch itself. You can use a tapestry needle or loop puller to slide the chain ends back about an inch through the looper stitches before trimming the ends. A needle threader can be helpful for getting the chain into the needle eye and corralling multiple threads together. {photo}

As you begin to sew a line of serger stitches, it’s easy to secure the tail at the same time, by simply lifting the presser foot and bringing it around to the top surface of the fabric. Lay it on the fabric where the looper stitches will encase it as you serge the seam. It’s important that the chain lies between the needle and the blade to avoid cutting it.

Wrapping it up

Choosing the right method for ending it all depends primarily on the location of the area you’re securing. For outside and decorative stitching, choose a method that’s as unobtrusive as possible. Inside, select a method that gives a secure finish without too much bulk for your project.


~Linda Griepentrog
Linda is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and two dogs, Yohnuh and Abby. Contact her at .

Tagged With: serger, sewing, sewing tips

November 22, 2019

Serger Rolled Hem

Perhaps you use your serger only for making neatly finished seams—but there’s so many other things you can do with it. One of my favorites is a rolled hem.

Whether you’re creating beautiful edges on napkins or silk scarves, or delicate hems on lingerie, the rolled hem is perfect to hide any “pokies” of thread along the edge. It’s also ideal for quickly finishing ruffle edges.

On a Roll

Image courtesy of Bernina
Used with permission

Before you begin the rolled hemming process, read your instruction manual for setting adjustments. Some brands of sergers utilize a different needle plate, others a separate foot or attachment, but common to all is altering settings so that the fabric edge rolls under. This is usually accomplished by making adjustments to the tension settings and stitch width, and using only one needle.

Narrow rolled hems can be stitched with regular serger thread or a novelty thread, like Woolly Nylon or a texturized polyester that fills in the stitched area. These threads will produce more of a satin stitch look to the edge, covering the entire fabric edge. Using rayon thread in the upper looper will produce an edge with a sheen, while texturized polyester thread creates a matte finished edge.

If your serger has a standard setting for a rolled hem, follow the instructions for its use. If you need to manually adjust, begin by using a narrow stitch finger for a perfect roll. Tighten the lower looper tension so that the fabric edge rolls under and is encased by the upper looper thread. You may need to adjust the needle tension to perfect the stitch. Shorten the stitch length to produce the look you want. It’s all a matter of testing on the fabric you want to hem, as each fabric reacts differently. Softer fabrics roll easier than stiffer fabrics which may not roll at all.

Rolled edge on knit fabric
Rolled edges are ideal for knit fabric finishing.

Change it Up

For variation, try using a variegated thread, but note that you might produce a striped edge depending on the thread brand, as some threads are dyed in regular intervals, while others are dyed randomly.

In addition to creating a lovely edge finish, a narrow rolled hem can also be used to stitch a seam in delicate fabrics like lingerie tricot or sheers. Only the width of the stitch shows, creating an almost invisible seamline. To use as a seam, leave the stitch length slightly longer than for edge finishes to keep the seam soft and subtle.


~Linda Griepentrog
Linda is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and two dogs, Yohnuh and Abby. Contact her at .

Tagged With: finishing edges, rolled hem, serger, sewing technique

March 1, 2017

Sewing with a Serger

This is a snippet from our full-length video on Sergers, available to members. In this snippet, we cover:

  • How to place the thread on your serger using spool caps
  • How to prevent the needle from falling into the hole when replacing the needle
  • How to re-insert a new needle
  • Why there’s a hole in the brush that came with your serger and what to use it for
  • Sewing pearls, beads or ribbon onto your fabric with your serger

To view the full video, become an ASG member today!  Membership in the American Sewing Guild gives you access to over 150 educational videos and project files, as well as a subscription to our weekly newsletter. Members take advantage of special offers, member discounts, education, meetings and member’s only pricing at the annual conference.

Tagged With: serger, sewing

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