sewing tip

September 9, 2022

Handy Notions: Tracing Wheels

The tracing wheel may be a sewing notion you were first introduced to when you began sewing, as it’s a handy way to transfer construction markings from the pattern to the fabric. Whether it’s patch pocket locations, a zipper opening, buttonholes, darts or pleats, using a tracing wheel is a quick way to get accurate markings for sewing.

Tool Styles

Tracing wheels come in several different styles, depending on their use. All should be used on a hard, flat surface for best marking visibility.

Double Wheels

If you’re working with a pattern that doesn’t include seam allowances, you will need to add them before cutting your fabric. An adjustable double wheel uses two heads and you can select the spacing between them, depending on the desired seam allowance, from ¼” to 1 ¼”. The heads snap into a handle and remain parallel to each other for accurate marking outside the original pattern outline to add fabric for seams.

In addition to being able to add seams, a double wheel allows you to mark the original pattern outline, so you have a marked line to follow for sewing. This is especially helpful for beginners, and for any garments that may require some fitting adjustments.

A double tracing wheel can also be used to enlarge or decrease a pattern size, by adjusting an even amount in the needed areas.

This type of tool is versatile, as you can also use it with just one head if you prefer.

Smooth Wheels

Looking like a tiny pizza cutter, only not sharp, a smooth tracing wheel makes a continuous, unbroken marked line. On fabrics that are impressionable (i.e. the marked line shows without using marking paper), the smooth wheel can be used to trace the pattern outline for cutting without pinning. This is especially handy for things like leather or vinyl, where pin marks are permanent. Just wheel around the pattern outline and cut on the impression line.

Dritz 746 Smooth Tracing Wheel on Amazon

Serrated Wheels

If you don’t need a continuous line, but a dotted or dashed one will do, the serrated wheel with its tiny spiked head points, will make that happen. Because there are spaces between the points, the marked lines come out the same way.

Blunt-point Wheels

On more fragile and lightweight fabrics, a serrated wheel may cause some surface damage, so switch instead to the blunt-point wheel. The small scallops are gentler on delicate fabrics, but produce an equally visible line as their spikey counterparts.

Needle-point/Spiked Wheels

Made with long spikes, these wheels are best used not for marking, but for tracing patterns onto tag board or crisp paper. Simply trace the original pattern outline to create a more permanent pattern, handy for reusing multiple times. It can also be used to perforate leather for easier stitching. If you use this wheel on fabric, most will become damaged from the small holes it creates.

Tihood needlepoint tracing wheel on Amazon.

Using a Tracing Wheel

Tracing wheels are most often used with some type of tracing or transfer paper. The paper is available in multiple colors, and today, most tracing paper markings wash out. If you plan to use the tracing paper on the fabric right side, be sure it’s designated as “wax-free.”

Caution: Some tracing paper markings become permanent once they are pressed as they’re heat-set into the fabric, so be sure to test products first on your fabric before use.

To transfer markings to a project that’s cut double (with fabric wrong sides together), place the tracing paper between the layers so that color is exposed to both layers. Trace the markings with the designated tracing wheel, remove the paper, and the markings will show on the wrong side of both layers.

If you cut with the fabric right sides together, encase both layers in the tracing paper with the colored side against the fabric wrong sides, and then trace the markings.

If you cut a single-layer pattern, place the colored paper under the layer with the color against the fabric wrong side, then mark.

~Linda Griepentrog Linda is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and three dogs, Yohnuh, Abby, and Lizzie. Contact her at .

February 18, 2022

Sewing Projects: Making Multiples

Do you showcase your DIY projects at craft sales or bazaars, make things for charity, or make dozens of handmade items for gifts? No matter what time of year, making multiples of the same or similar item can be simple and quick with a few helpful hints.

Tagboard on Amazon (affiliate link; we may earn a small commission on your purchase)

Streamline your pattern. If you’re making lots of hats, for example, create a tagboard pattern you can trace around. Not only does this save wear and tear (and shredding) of tissue paper patterns, but it’s more accurate for cutting. It doesn’t matter if the fabric colors are the same, as long as it’s the same item being cut.

Simplify the design. Depending on the project, you may be able to change up the design a bit to save time. For example, instead of creating tedious narrow hems on something, could you bind the edges with bias tape instead? Instead of finishing seams, like on a gift bag, could you add a simple lining to hide seams and add a bit more body?

Rotary cut multiple layers. Depending on the project and the fabric, you may be able to stack fabrics and cut six or so layers at one time with a good rotary cutter.

Choose a neutral thread. If you’re making lots of items in different colors, avoid constantly changing threads by using a neutral. White, off-white or light gray work for seaming light colors, and navy, black or dark gray blend with dark colors. If your project has topstitching, you may want to use thread to match the fabric, in which case, stack up similar colors and do the matching stitching at one time.

Bundle components. If your project requires elastic, for example, pre-cut the number of lengths needed before you start construction. When it’s time to insert the elastic, it’s ready to go, without have to go back and cut for each project.

Fuse fast. Think fusible interfacing if your project requires more body. You can fuse fabric prior to cutting out pieces to avoid having to tediously match up cut edges.

Chain sew. Continuous sewing is a technique borrowed from factories and involves sewing as many things as possible without cutting the thread. Simply feed in the next item and go, letting completed units trail out the back of the machine. Not only do you save thread, but also a lot of time. Once a task is done, simply clip apart all the pieces and move onto the next step.

Chain sewing—how far can you go without cutting the thread?

Sew without pins. Take a lesson from factory workers and learn to sew without pins. The task of stopping to remove pins as you approach them takes time and slows your speedy construction methods used for sewing multiples.

If you’re bored making the same item, play a game. It makes the time go faster if you challenge yourself to accomplish a certain task within a time frame. For example, if you finish x quantity of y task by 1pm, you can reward yourself with a break and a cup of your favorite beverage. (Warning: Do not drink alcoholic beverages while sewing.)

Plan ahead. Sew together small components—like ties, drawstrings, etc.—prior to constructing the item. For example, if you’re mass-producing aprons, make all the neck ties and waistline ties first before it’s time to attach them. If you’re making dozens of fleece hats, make all the pompoms first and they’re ready when you get to sewing the seam that includes them.

Don’t hesitate to invest. If you’re going to be doing a lot of sewing of similar items, think about what sewing machine attachments might help make your task easier. Depending on the project, you may find it’s a serious timesaver to invest in a bias binding attachment, edgestitch foot or perhaps a narrow hemming foot. If your machine doesn’t come with one, perhaps a ¼”-foot would help keep seamlines on the straight and narrow. Check with your dealer to see if there’s a machine accessory to help with specific tasks you’re facing that could speed up your work.

machine feet

Keep it clean. Sewing multiples can add a lot of lint to your sewing machine bobbin area and feed dogs. Be sure to regularly brush out those areas for trouble-free sewing.

Add an ID. If you’re a prolific crafter who sells your wares, it’s always good to add a bit of professionalism to your projects with labels or tags. It’s easy to create and print tags from the computer, as there are several templates available online. Add your business name if you have one, or simply your contact information in case someone wants to purchase another similar item. Care instructions may be noted as well, and if the project comes in different sizes, indicate the size on the tag too.

~Linda Griepentrog

Linda is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and two dogs, Yohnuh and Abby. Contact her at .

November 8, 2021

How to Sew a Baby Hem

Our short video will show you how easy it is to create a baby hem. Sew simple, sew easy!

~Sheryl Belson

January 29, 2021

Slick Tricks: Working with Laminated Fabrics

If you’re looking to make that perfect raincoat, try one of the great laminated fabrics on the market today. Colorful cottons with a clear coating are ideal for rainy weather attire, and a host of other projects from cosmetic bags to totes and aprons.

And you have options—laminated cottons come with either a matte finish or a glossy finish, depending on the brand and the desired look. In many instances, the same print is available in a non-laminated version, so that you can use it for facings, hood linings, binding, etc.

Although they do require some care when sewing, there’s nothing off-putting about these fun fabrics. Just be sure to purchase a laminated cotton, as opposed to traditional oilcloth fabric which has a heavier mesh base and is best suited for home décor items.

The coating on laminates makes them water resistant (not waterproof), and it keeps seam allowances from fraying. Some coatings are lightweight and others a bit heavier, so select the fabric by the intended use. Softer coatings are ideal for garments, as they’re more flexible than heavier ones.

Preparation

When choosing a pattern, look for simple lines and few seams, as well as raglan sleeves vs. set-in. There’s no room for error with laminates, so be sure the pattern fits you.

When you cut out your project, opt for pattern weights instead of pins, unless you keep them only within the seamlines as the marks are permanent.

Mark with chalk or soap slivers and never a tracing wheel, as that can damage the coating.

Sewing

There are some helpful notions for stitching these sticky fabrics. Spring clips, such as Wonder Clips, help hold layers in place without pinning, as do coated paperclips.

If sticking is an issue, opt for a non-stick presser foot, or put tape on the bottom of a regular foot to keep it moving. Sticking becomes an issue usually only if you’re sewing with the right side up, otherwise, the fabric should move smoothly under the foot.

Adjust the stitch length to slightly longer than normal and use a small needle to avoid large holes in the fabric.

Pressing isn’t an option for most laminates, so keep the iron away. To keep the seams flat, finger-press, then topstitch, either open or with seam allowances to one side. Topstitching is also recommended for all edges to keep them flat.

Finishing

If your raincoat requires buttonholes, interface the area with a sew-in interfacing (not fusible) and use the setting on your machine that produces a buttonhole with simply straight stitching around the slit. Any dense satin stitching can damage the fabric.

For hems, there’s no need to finish the edge as the lamination keeps the fabric from fraying—just turn up the hem evenly, clip it in place and sew one or two rows of stitching evenly from the folded edge.

On a tote, bound edges work perfectly—not only are they easy to do, but they also reduce the bulk of multiple laminate layers on turned-and-stitched edges.

~Linda Griepentrog
Linda is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and two dogs, Yohnuh and Abby. Contact her at .

November 27, 2020

Fast and Easy Fringed Edge Finishes

If you’re looking for a fast and easy edge finish, there’s nothing easier than fringe! It works on single-layer placemats, scarves, patches and pockets, or with a little more effort, you can insert fringe into a seam or hem.

The results of fringing are not always what you expect, as some fabrics are woven with different color threads going lengthwise and crosswise, so you get totally different colors in one direction from the other. Denim is a good example, as white threads are usually used one way and indigo the other.

The Basics

Select a woven fabric (knits cannot be fringed using this technique). Fabrics like linen, burlap, gauze, wools and bouclés are ideal candidates. The looser the weave, the easier the fringing process.

To create a simple fringe, be sure your project edge is cut parallel to the fabric grain. Sew a line of stitching where you want the fringe to stop, then start pulling threads up to the stitching line. The stitching thread can match the fabric or contrast with it.
For easier removal, use a needle or a large pin to help separate the fabric threads and gently pull them across the fringed area. Note that if your project has a right-angle corner (like a scarf), there will be a gap in the thread fringe at the corners.
If you want to knot the fringe, either singly or with thread groups, allow extra length for that process. Test-fringe a sample to see how much length you need for either a square knot or an overhand knot.
For a top-fringed pocket, cut the pocket top on the straight grain and extend it the desired fringe length (no hem). For a fringed sleeve hem, determine the sleeve length, then extend the lower edge the desired fringe length, being sure to keep a straight grain edge.
Single-layer scarves can be fringe-finished on all edges or just the ends, like on a muffler.

Inset Fringe

Inserting fringe into a seam allows for more placement flexibility and allows for placing it on a curve as well.
To make a fringe strip, cut a straight grain strip the desired width of the fringe, plus the requisite seam allowance. Stitch and fringe as noted above. On very loosely woven fabrics, layer two strips for a denser fringe.
Use the fringe strip as you would a piping, basting it along one layer of the seamline with the fringe facing the bulk of the project. Then top with the second layer of the project, and sew just inside the basting line. When you turn the project right side out, the fringe will extend beyond the seamed edge.
For long fringe strips, simply abut the ends of multiple fabric strips as needed. If you need a bulkier fringe, layer two strips atop each other and treat as one layer.

Design Tip: inset fringe can be made from matching or contrasting fabric.

Trim Tactics

If desired, you can add a ribbon or trim along the stitched edge of fringe as an accent, whether it’s single layer or inserted into a seam.

Don’t forget to check the selvage of your fabric, as some have fun fringes that can be used as is, and they already match!

~Linda Griepentrog
Linda is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and two dogs, Yohnuh and Abby. Contact her at .