sewing tips

July 7, 2023

Sewing Q&A: Cutting Mats, Chain Sewing, & Elastic Thread

Rotary Cutting Mat

Q: What’s the easiest way to clean my rotary cutting mat?

A: Cutting mats harbor lint as you cut various fabrics and some fabrics are worse than others for their shedding capabilities. If you’re cutting something linty, like fleece or fur, be sure to use a soft brush and clean the mat immediately after use. An art eraser, soft dish scrubber or an adhesive lint remover can also be used to get fibers out of the cutting line grooves. But don’t stop there…

To give your mat a thorough “spa” cleaning, fill your bathtub with enough room temperature water to cover the bottom of the tub, and add ¼ cup of white vinegar. Let the mat soak for 15-20 minutes, then add a bit of dish soap to the mix. Use a small, soft brush to scrub the mat and lather it up. Rinse the mat in cool water and dry with a towel or lay it flat to air dry.

Tempting as it might be, don’t use hot water for this cleanse, and don’t let your mat dry in direct sun, as both will cause the mat to warp. Once a cutting mat is warped, it cannot be made flat again.

Taking good care of your cutting mat will prolong its life and that of your rotary cutter blade as well.

Chain Sewing

Q: I’ve heard the term chain sewing a lot from my quilting friends—what does it mean and can I do it with garment sewing too?

A: Chain sewing means that once you’ve sewn a seam, you simply feed in the next thing to be sewn, without clipping the threads between pieces. For example, if you’re sewing together multiple quilt blocks, sew all the like pieces together continuously. Chain stitching is a real timesaver, and it also saves thread, as you’re not stopping after each piece to clip threads and pulling out new thread ends before you start the next piece.

When you’re done sewing together a quantity of pieces, clip them apart.

Chain stitching can absolutely be done with garment sewing or other projects as well. In fact, it’s kind of a game to see how far you can go without stopping to clip threads. When sewing a garment, fuse any interfacings to all pieces prior to sewing, then, depending on the style, you may be able to continuously sew the armhole facing shoulder and/or underarm seams, followed by the garment shoulder seams and side and/or center seams, neckline facing seams and skirt side seams, all before stopping. If your garment has sleeves, feed in the underarm seams as well.

Rule of thumb for chain sewing is never cross another seam without pressing it first.

Chain sewing is really quite satisfying to see a mound of pieces quickly piling up behind your presser foot. If you’re making multiples of the same item (cheerleader outfits, band uniforms, etc.), factory style chain sewing is much quicker than sewing each project from start to finish before starting the next.

Elastic Thread

Q: I used elastic thread in my bobbin to shirr a top, but it didn’t pull up as much as I thought it would and my top is too big. Did I do something wrong, and is there any way to fix it?

A: Elastic thread differs from brand to brand with its elasticity and recovery, so it’s really important to do test stitching on the actual project fabric before beginning your garment. Top tension may need to be adjusted, and/or the stitch length to get the shirring effect you want.

Since your stitching is already done, there are a couple of possible solutions: First, steam the shirred area from the wrong and/or right side. Most elastic threads will shrink a goodly amount from the steam. Don’t actually press on the elastic or the fabric, just hover the iron and steam. If that doesn’t draw it up sufficiently, find the end of each stitching line and pull up the elastic. When it’s the right size, knot the thread end or stitch over it several times within the seamline. Repeat for each row separately. If you didn’t stop stitching at the end of the rows, but instead turned to stitch the next row, use a large pin to pull up the elastic thread as if it were separate rows for the same effect.

~Linda Griepentrog is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and three dogs, Yohnuh, Abby, and Lizzie. Contact her at .

February 18, 2022

Sewing Projects: Making Multiples

Do you showcase your DIY projects at craft sales or bazaars, make things for charity, or make dozens of handmade items for gifts? No matter what time of year, making multiples of the same or similar item can be simple and quick with a few helpful hints.

Tagboard on Amazon (affiliate link; we may earn a small commission on your purchase)

Streamline your pattern. If you’re making lots of hats, for example, create a tagboard pattern you can trace around. Not only does this save wear and tear (and shredding) of tissue paper patterns, but it’s more accurate for cutting. It doesn’t matter if the fabric colors are the same, as long as it’s the same item being cut.

Simplify the design. Depending on the project, you may be able to change up the design a bit to save time. For example, instead of creating tedious narrow hems on something, could you bind the edges with bias tape instead? Instead of finishing seams, like on a gift bag, could you add a simple lining to hide seams and add a bit more body?

Rotary cut multiple layers. Depending on the project and the fabric, you may be able to stack fabrics and cut six or so layers at one time with a good rotary cutter.

Choose a neutral thread. If you’re making lots of items in different colors, avoid constantly changing threads by using a neutral. White, off-white or light gray work for seaming light colors, and navy, black or dark gray blend with dark colors. If your project has topstitching, you may want to use thread to match the fabric, in which case, stack up similar colors and do the matching stitching at one time.

Bundle components. If your project requires elastic, for example, pre-cut the number of lengths needed before you start construction. When it’s time to insert the elastic, it’s ready to go, without have to go back and cut for each project.

Fuse fast. Think fusible interfacing if your project requires more body. You can fuse fabric prior to cutting out pieces to avoid having to tediously match up cut edges.

Chain sew. Continuous sewing is a technique borrowed from factories and involves sewing as many things as possible without cutting the thread. Simply feed in the next item and go, letting completed units trail out the back of the machine. Not only do you save thread, but also a lot of time. Once a task is done, simply clip apart all the pieces and move onto the next step.

Chain sewing—how far can you go without cutting the thread?

Sew without pins. Take a lesson from factory workers and learn to sew without pins. The task of stopping to remove pins as you approach them takes time and slows your speedy construction methods used for sewing multiples.

If you’re bored making the same item, play a game. It makes the time go faster if you challenge yourself to accomplish a certain task within a time frame. For example, if you finish x quantity of y task by 1pm, you can reward yourself with a break and a cup of your favorite beverage. (Warning: Do not drink alcoholic beverages while sewing.)

Plan ahead. Sew together small components—like ties, drawstrings, etc.—prior to constructing the item. For example, if you’re mass-producing aprons, make all the neck ties and waistline ties first before it’s time to attach them. If you’re making dozens of fleece hats, make all the pompoms first and they’re ready when you get to sewing the seam that includes them.

Don’t hesitate to invest. If you’re going to be doing a lot of sewing of similar items, think about what sewing machine attachments might help make your task easier. Depending on the project, you may find it’s a serious timesaver to invest in a bias binding attachment, edgestitch foot or perhaps a narrow hemming foot. If your machine doesn’t come with one, perhaps a ¼”-foot would help keep seamlines on the straight and narrow. Check with your dealer to see if there’s a machine accessory to help with specific tasks you’re facing that could speed up your work.

machine feet

Keep it clean. Sewing multiples can add a lot of lint to your sewing machine bobbin area and feed dogs. Be sure to regularly brush out those areas for trouble-free sewing.

Add an ID. If you’re a prolific crafter who sells your wares, it’s always good to add a bit of professionalism to your projects with labels or tags. It’s easy to create and print tags from the computer, as there are several templates available online. Add your business name if you have one, or simply your contact information in case someone wants to purchase another similar item. Care instructions may be noted as well, and if the project comes in different sizes, indicate the size on the tag too.

~Linda Griepentrog

Linda is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and two dogs, Yohnuh and Abby. Contact her at .

May 15, 2020

Basic Sewing Tools: Marking Tools

Help! I’ve marked my fabric and I can’t get it out!

No matter what you are sewing, you often need to find a way to mark key points on the fabric. You might need to mark stitching lines for darts, placement for pleats, buttonholes, or pockets. But nothing is more heartbreaking than to find that the marks have made a permanent home on the fabric and become center stage in your final project.

Top priority is always to choose the right marking tool that will do its job and leave when it’s done. This article will remind you of a few options to select from to achieve that result. But since we all occasionally need a little help when we fall, it is also important to have a few ideas in your arsenal for what to do when those marks refuse to leave when you want them to.

So, here we go. Let’s start with a few marking options, complete with strong points and weak points, for you to consider. Then we will wrap up with a few ideas to help you save the day if one of them results in a “fall” you have trouble getting up from.

Regardless of which marking tool you use, the most important thing you need to know is test, test test!

Frixion Pens

Frixion Pens are a personal favorite of mine. They are easy to find online, in office supply stores and some fabric stores. They work great on smooth fabrics but not so well on textured fabrics. Watch out, though. If you press too hard when marking, they can mar the fabric and leave a ghost line. Ask me how I know this… Press just firmly enough to make the marking visible but not scar the fabric. They erase quickly and easily with heat or steam but be forewarned that if you plan to take your project to the North Pole, those marks just might reappear. Yep, extreme cold can do that, just like magic! There’s a whole chemistry lesson that explains why, but that is for another day.

Tailor’s Chalk

Tailor’s Chalk comes in two types, with wax and without. Chalk without wax works particularly well on smooth fabric textures. It usually brushes away without leaving a residue, though sometimes too quickly so handle the marked fabric with care. Chalk with wax is a better choice for heavier and textured fabrics as it won’t disappear into the fibers or as quickly, waiting for the heat of an iron to disappear.

The downside of tailor’s chalk is that it gets dull and sometimes crumbles which means you will need to sharpen it. You can easily sharpen it by using a simple sharpening tool from makers like Dritz, or you can sharpen it by carefully (no injuries, please!) scraping the sharp edge of the blade of your paper scissors or an Exacto knife along the edge of the chalk.

Chakoner

Chakoner is a powdered chalk receptacle with a dispensary wheel that makes a super fine chalk line. It rolls easily over both smooth and textured fabrics without leaving ghost lines and has a brush to help with removing the chalk when you are done. Chakoner’s are refillable, but refilling can be a messy and frustrating job. The most common tip for accomplishing that tricky task is to pour the chalk into the little hole on top of the Chakoner using a small homemade paper cone, which has mostly negative reviews. In the category of repurposing household items for other purposes, one user reported using a.. wait for it… turkey injector with a large gauge needle! It was reportedly still a bit fiddly but more effective than the paper cone. Wonders never cease!

Air/Water Soluble Pens

Air/Water soluble pens work well for marking lines and dots and usually leave no residue afterwards. Water soluble pen marks can usually be removed with a damp cloth or cotton swab or a spritz from a spray bottle. Air soluble marks should dissolve into thin air within 12-24 hours on their own, so they are not a good choice if you are marking ahead but won’t get to the sewing for a day or two. Sometimes the markings can bleed, distorting the exact location of the mark so take care not to press the pen on the fabric too long. Also, be aware that these pens can dry out so be sure to replace the cap tightly after each use.

Thread

Thread can be used for tailor’s tacks and thread tracing and will never leave ghost lines or residue. It is a more time-consuming way to mark and you need to handle the marked pieces with care to be sure the thread doesn’t pull out before using the markings. This method is especially popular with those who are sewing couture garments.

But, what if it doesn’t go away?

With so many options, you are sure to find just the right marking tool for your project. But what if even after you have tested your marking tool on a scrap piece of fabric and made the perfect choice, one of those markings, in a very visible location of course, just won’t disappear. We are right back where we started in this article, “Help! I’ve marked my fabric and I can’t get it out!”

When that happens — and it inevitably will at some point — here are a few tips that just might help you save the day. You still can’t escape that testing advice. The last thing you want to do is make matters worse by trying one of these tips only to find out your fabric absolutely hated the idea and now you have not only the marking pen visible, but also a not-so-lovely spot from where you tried to remove it.

The ghost lines sometimes caused by Frixion pens might be removed with either Amodex or Mötsenböcker’s Lift-Off 3 if the line is not the result of pressing so hard that you have marred the fabric. Both are available on Amazon and sometimes in grocery stores.
Lightly rubbing chalk markings with a Wet Wipe or vinegar water will often remove stubborn markings without affecting the fabric at all. And since new moms tell us baby wipes can clean ANYTHING, this idea is probably worth trying!
Gently rubbing the mark with a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser is said to be effective for removing some markings.
To remove stubborn wax-based chalk markings, place a layer of plain brown paper (like a paper bag) over the stain and press (not rub) for several seconds.
Stubborn water-soluble marks may be removed by letting the fabric soak in a bowl of lukewarm mildly soapy water. After soaking for a generous amount of time, fill the bowl with cold tap water and rinse until all the soap is gone.
You may also have luck forcing a stubborn air-soluble mark away by dabbing with a cotton swab that’s been wet with rubbing alcohol.

Here’s hoping you never ever need any of these “save the day” tips. But at least you have a few to try if you do.

~Sheryl Belson, ASG Plano Chapter

February 28, 2020

Ending it All (serger stitching, that is)

We all love sergers for stitching and finishing our seams all in one operation. Those loopers and needles just seem to zing along the edges, but what happens at the ends is something to note. You can’t backstitch with a serger like a conventional machine. Do you just cut off the threads and hope for the best, or do you plan a neat finish for the threads that would make your home ec teacher proud?

There are several options for finishing the ends of serger seams, depending on the location and actual type of seam you’re using.

The easiest way to anchor serger threads is to cross them with another line of stitching. For example, if you’ve serged seams in a skirt, you’ll be crossing them with a waistband or facing and a hem finish. The perpendicular stitching is enough to hold the serger threads in place and keep them from raveling.

Another way to finish serger seams is to apply seam sealant to the threads, let it dry, then trim the threads close to the fabric. This is a great option for rolled hems or places where you don’t want other visible fastening of the threads. The down side of this method is that seam sealant can make the threads a bit stiff (depending on the product brand), it can be a bit messy to apply so best to do so with a pin to avoid getting it on the adjacent fabric, and you have to wait for it to dry before moving on in the construction process. (You can speed up the drying process by sandwiching the area between paper towels and pressing.)

How about knotting the threads? Good idea, and it can be done two ways. First, simply tie the serger chain in a loose overhand knot, use a pin to push it down to the fabric edge and tighten the knot to secure. Cut off the thread ends close to the knot. Depending on the thread and location, this can make a highly visible fastening. Another knotting option is to separate the threads from the serger chain so that you have them paired—one looper and one needle together, and tie a small knot with the two close to the fabric, then clip the ends. This makes a more discreet knot than the overhand version, and is great for decorative threads or outside stitching.

Yet another option is to thread the serger chain ends back through the serger stitch itself. You can use a tapestry needle or loop puller to slide the chain ends back about an inch through the looper stitches before trimming the ends. A needle threader can be helpful for getting the chain into the needle eye and corralling multiple threads together. {photo}

As you begin to sew a line of serger stitches, it’s easy to secure the tail at the same time, by simply lifting the presser foot and bringing it around to the top surface of the fabric. Lay it on the fabric where the looper stitches will encase it as you serge the seam. It’s important that the chain lies between the needle and the blade to avoid cutting it.

Wrapping it up

Choosing the right method for ending it all depends primarily on the location of the area you’re securing. For outside and decorative stitching, choose a method that’s as unobtrusive as possible. Inside, select a method that gives a secure finish without too much bulk for your project.

~Linda Griepentrog
Linda is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and two dogs, Yohnuh and Abby. Contact her at .

February 7, 2020

Machine Needles: What’s the Point?

The needle you use in your sewing machine can make the difference between perfection and a disaster. Use the wrong needle, a damaged needle or a worn needle and you could end up with broken threads, holes, uneven stitches, puckers and possibly even permanently damaged fabric. To keep your seams straight and your collars curvy, there are several points to successful stitching.

Check first

Check for any special requirements for your specific machine. For the most part, standard sewing machine needles can be used in any sewing machine. However, differences may be found in some machines like sergers, embroidery machines and some brands which could require a special needle.

Size matters

Needle size is the numeric representation of the diameter of the blade. Note that when you see needle sizes, they are labeled with two numbers, separated by a slash (65/9, 80/12, etc.). This refers to EURO metric sizing (in millimeters) and the comparable US sizing. The following chart from Colonial Needle describes the fabric weights and the size of needle that are appropriate for each project.

Information reprinted with permission from the Colonial Needle Company
ASG Members receive a 20% discount. See the Special Offers page in Members Only.

Download the Colonial Needle machine needle resource guide.

Let’s Get to the Point

There are 3 basic General Purpose needle types. Universal needles are usually used in knits and wovens. Ball points are great for knits. Finally, Sharps/Microtex are used in finely woven fabrics.
Specialty needles are available for use in denim, leather, embroidery, metallic (for use with metallic threads), quilting, twin, triple, stretch and more. Check out this Guideline for an extensive list of needle types, sizes and their uses.

Needle Tips

For best results, needles should be replaced every 6-8 hours of sewing time.
If you hit a pin, even if the needle seems okay, it’s safer to replace it.
Needle breakage could mean that the needle size is too small for the type or thickness of fabric you are using. In this case, try changing to a larger needle size.
When you are sewing, allow the feed dogs to draw your fabric along. Use a light touch with your hands to guide the fabric rather than pushing or pulling, which could cause your needle to bend and break.

Stock up

It can be frustrating to not be able to start — or finish — a project because you don’t have the correct needle or don’t have a replacement, so make sure to keep a good supply of your favorite needles on hand. ASG members can take advantage of a 20% discount on needles, notions, thimbles, thread, jewelry and more at Colonial Needle by visiting the Special Offers section of ASG.org

~Janice Blasko, webgoddess for ASG