ASG Sewing Blog – Page 29

February 3, 2023

Buttonhole Window on a Reversible Garment (preview)

The buttonhole window is strong and attractive on both sides of a garment, which makes it ideal for a reversible vest or jacket. If your garment is trimmed with faux leather, suede, or wool jersey, the same fabric should also be used for the patch because it won’t ravel.

Buttonholes in a reversible or unlined garment are difficult because a standard machine buttonhole through a single fabric thickness will stretch or pull away from the cloth. A bound buttonhole is attractive, but only on one side. However, a buttonhole window is attractive on the front, as well as the back.

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February 2, 2023

Women of the World Quilt

Richmond, VA ASG member, Dianne Portwood, recently gave a presentation at a chapter meeting about a quilt she made that celebrates women, titled Women of the World. This is Dianne’s story of how the quilt came to be:

Since I was young, I have enjoyed watching people. It could be sitting on the pier at the beach or enjoying a cup of coffee at the mall and watching people. The expressions on their faces, faces filled with joy, laughter, or sadness. Faces tell a story… the story of a good life or one of hardships. Ah, the stories we could learn from faces! As I was growing up, I was intrigued by various faces from around the world, their colors, shapes, hair color types, and what they wear on their heads and/or faces.

In making the Women of the World quilt, I wanted to capture women’s faces from around the world, including their different head coverings, jewelry, and dresses.

The faces were hand drawn, color penciled in (eyes and mouths) and then hand embroidered with floss. Floss was also used to shape the nose, make the hair, and the feathers on the Native American hair dress. I machine embroidered a couple of flowers on the Polynesian lady and filled in with hand embroidered ones.

The face that began it all was the light skin African American on the center left. I designed an Asian quilt and was teaching a class on how to make it when a student wanted to use an African woman instead. So, I drew this face for her. I did not want my copy to go to waste, so this quilt began. I dressed her with a turban head wrap made from an African boho print with metallic weave. Her earrings are wooden. She was followed by the others.

The Eskimo woman is wearing a fur lined hoodie with eyelash yarn around her face. The red hair woman below her is from the British Isles. The Native American woman is wearing a medallion in her hair made of seed beads with a buffalo nickel made into a button in the center. Feathers and hair are made from floss. On the bottom right about 5 o’clock on the globe, the African woman’s hair was made with hundreds of French and Colonial knots. She is dressed in boho fabric with gold threads with matching earrings and necklace.

I could not make this quilt without including a woman that has or is going through the battle of cancer. She is on the lower left. With her glasses on the top of her hairless head and pink ribbon earrings, she has a worried but confident look.

The letters “Women of the World” were machine embroidered on felt then arranged of top of the globe. The made was drawn and stitched in place. The quilt was quilted by free motion quilting.

Each face in Women of the World quilt tells a story. After the faces were finished, I noticed that one reminds me of my great-grandmother. She was a farmer, lived off the land, and worked from sunup to sundown. Quilting was her winter project. She made beautiful ones, all made by hand from feed bags and old clothes. As you look at the faces, do you see one that reminds you of someone you know and love?

January 27, 2023

Sewing Get-aways & Retreats

It goes without saying that we love to sew with friends—after all, that’s why we’re members of ASG! But getting away from your usual locale and sewing with friends is twice as nice. Think about attending a sewing retreat.

A sewing retreat can be organized by a group of friends, by your chapter, by a business (think fabric store, quilt shop, etc., or by a teacher) and it can be at the business location or some other beckoning destination like the coast, mountains, etc. Sewists can fly or drive to the destination, depending on proximity. Before you sign up for a sewing adventure though, be sure you know exactly what you’re getting. Another great “retreat” option — albeit on a larger scale and full of education, social events, tours, and more — is, of course, ASG Conference.

What is the cost of the retreat?

Are you paying a single fee for an all-inclusive package, or are you paying individually for things on-site? If it’s the former, be sure you know exactly what the fee includes, and the cancellation policies of the group or person organizing the adventure. Is full payment due at the time of sign-up, or can you pay multiple payments over time?

How will you get there?

If the retreat is away from your home town, how you get there can greatly influence what you might be able to take with you. Transporting a large sewing or embroidery machine on a plane can be troublesome for both you and the machine. If you’re going cross-county for a getaway, check with the event organizer to see if a machine can be rented or borrowed on-site.

Drivable events offer more flexibility in what you can bring with you, as you can pack as much as space allows, though if you’re carpooling, space may be limited.

Image provided by stitchinggirlssociety.org

What is provided at the destination?

This could include lodging if it’s a far-away location. Can you opt for a single room (usually with an up-charge), or specify a roommate, or are the sleeping arrangements dormitory style? You may have a different comfort level with each of those options.

If lodging isn’t included, how close is the nearest hotel or motel to the sewing destination? Is there a shuttle offered between the locations?

What is the plan for meals? Is food provided by the host, or does everyone take turns cooking for the group, or do you just fend for yourself for each meal? If it’s the latter, does the location have individual cooking facilities, and how close is it to restaurants and markets? Restaurant outings for all meals can add a considerable amount to the cost of a retreat.

It’s very likely that tables and chairs are provided in the destination sewing area, but what about cutting mats, mirrors (for fitting if you’re making garments), irons and ironing boards? Perhaps there are bulletin boards or design walls available, if needed. Sewing space may be limited, so check what your actual space and table size will be so you can judge how many things to take.

Of utmost importance could be proximity of the nearest fabric store. Not only to acquire something you might have forgotten or run out of, but also in case someone else’s project inspires you.

It seems that most sewing retreats always have a large snack table. It’s hard not to stop on your way to the ironing station or coffee pot, but keep in mind that you’ll likely be there for several days, so show moderation. Or, promise yourself to stick with fruit, nuts, etc., with only an occasional sugary indulgence.

What is the format of the retreat?

Some get-aways are structured around a specific topic, like fitting, a single garment pattern or a mystery quilt, while others are a free-for-all and everyone sews whatever they want. If it’s a single project, often kits are provided for participants—perhaps included in the retreat fee, or for an additional fee.

For retreats featuring a noted teacher, there may be a scheduled time when he/she is demonstrating a specific technique, so be sure you know the timetable and plan accordingly to keep up with lessons.

Are there designated sewing times, or do you simply have access to the sewing area 24/7, like with an individual key to the room?

What else is there to do nearby?

Although most of us are excited to be able to sew uninterrupted 24/7, sometimes you just might need a break—like a walk on the beach or a stroll through a summer garden. Or for some, shopping at quaint shops or an outlet mall. Be sure you know what’s near the retreat location if you need a diversion.

Making memories and new friends at sewing retreats is priceless, so check online to find one that entices you to get away!

~Linda Griepentrog is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and three dogs, Yohnuh, Abby, and Lizzie. Contact her at .

January 20, 2023

Your Sewing Temperament (preview)

The kinds of sewing you do — and do well — have a lot to do with your sewing temperament. For example, do you have the patience and skill it takes to do tailoring? Can you stand the repetitive work required by quilting?

Have you ever thought about your sewing temperament? After an informally collected observations of sewing friends, I found they seem to fall into several categories. These descriptions are more astrology than science, but you may find that something in them rings true for you. These snapshots are intended to get you thinking about your own preferences.

The complete version of this article is available on the ASG Members Only blog and requires member login.
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January 13, 2023

Just Encase

There are times when you want to add a bit of texture and fun to a project, but you may not be quite sure what to do. Think about encasing something under tulle, which serves to hold it in place and protect the addition at the same time.

What to encase?

Depending on the project you’re making, there are many choices. Silk flowers are a fun addition to home décor items or special-occasion wear. They’re affordable and look beautiful. Envision a long skirt fully embellished with silk flowers. OK, if you’re not quite that ambitious, think about a collar, pocket or tote bag. Take apart the flowers to use single layers or individual petals.

Bits of novelty threads, yarns or trims are another option. They can form a pattern or be totally free-form embellishments.

A collage of fabric bits is another idea—those tiny but colorful slivers of fabric you trim with a rotary cutter are ideal, as are small shapes of fabric purposefully cut for this technique. If the project isn’t going to be washed (like a wall hanging), then you can think more broadly to small rocks, shells, photos, etc.

Over the Top

Tulle is ideal for going over the top of your treasures—it’s very thin and almost invisible, depending on the color used and the base color, but it adds a “just-right” layer to help hold things in place.

Tulle is a fine mesh fabric found in the special occasion department of the fabric store, and it comes in myriad colors. It’s lighter and finer than the holes in net for a more invisible look. Note that some tulle is nylon and will easily melt, so check the fiber content and adjust the iron temperature as needed before pressing.

Covering Up

In addition to the items you want to encase, some fabric glue is helpful to hold multiple items in place. If you prefer not to glue, then use long pins to temporarily hold things until the finish stitching is done.

Cut the base fabric in the size needed. For example, if it’s a garment and you want to embellish the pocket, collar or perhaps an entire skirt, cut the pattern piece from the fashion fabric. If it’s a pillow or wall hanging, cut the fabric pieces as required by the pattern.

Position the accent items where you want them on the right side of the base fabric. Add a dot of fabric glue behind to hold it place—don’t cover the entire surface as you want to have some dimension. If you’re using silk flower petals, just a glue dot at the center is sufficient for securing.

Audition your creation with different colors of tulle to see the variation in look depending on the color used. When you’ve chosen an appropriate color, cut the tulle about 1” larger than the base fabric shape and press out any wrinkles. If your encasements, are thicker, cut the tulle larger to allow for full coverage.

Pin the tulle over the base fabric, placing some pins along the edges and some in and between the encased accents.

Now comes the fun—adding embellishments to hold things in place.

Embellishing

To help hold items in place, think about hand- or machine stitching around them to make a “pocket”, add some beads through the layers (especially nice for silk flower petals), or add hand- or machine embroidery to keep things where you want them.

Whatever technique is done over the layers keeps the tulle from being loose and “bagging out” if it’s not anchored in some way.

You can use free-motion stitching to go around shapes, or keep the presser foot on for a more controlled look. Single motifs of decorative stitches are ideal for flower centers or weave rows of decorative stitches in and out of the encased items.

For machine embroidery motifs, add a layer of stabilizer underneath for hooping. When hand-stitching, sew through both the tulle and base layer, and the same for attaching beads, charms or baubles. The more stitching that’s done, the flatter the finished piece will be.

When the embellishing process is complete, stitch around the edge of the entire piece and trim the tulle to match the base shape.

Finishing

Use your embellished piece in your finished garment or project, just as you would if it were plain fabric—you’ve created your own unique fabric worthy of compliments and questions about how you did it, as the tulle is elusive.