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July 2, 2021

Beyond the Basics: Serger Accessory Feet

If you use your serger only for finishing seams and you never change the foot, you could be missing a world of opportunities for other fun sewing adventures.

Cording FootLike your conventional machine, many sergers have accessory, or special-function feet available for a variety of stitching tasks. It’s important to know what feet you might have already included with your serger, so check the manual and any accessory boxes first. Then, do a little research with your dealer to see what other feet might be available. In addition to the brand-name feet, sometimes generic feet may fit your model.

If you’re shopping for specialty feet, you’ll need to know your serger’s model number, whether it takes screw-on or snap-on feet, and any stitch width limitations. Also, note that some tension adjustments might be needed when using some specialty feet, so be sure you’re comfortable with that.

Let’s take a look at a few available options, keeping in mind that all feet may not be available for all brands and models of sergers, and names may be slightly different between brands.

These feet were made for serging

Elasticator/Tape Foot

This handy foot not only helps guide elastic for you, but it also stretches it as you sew. Most feet allow you to adjust the amount of stretch, as it varies by the type of elastic. This foot is ideal for sewing lingerie, swimwear and athletic garments of all sorts. Note the elastic widths compatible with the foot, as some have a wider range than others. The foot can either serge over the elastic, or along one edge depending on the position adjustment.

Elasticator foot, image courtesy of Bernina

Blindstitch Foot

If you love making invisible hems by machine, but you hate guessing exactly where the fold should go and where the needle should be, this foot is for you, as it has an adjustable guide to keep things consistent as you stitch the hem in place. It guides the fold and can cut the extending edge in one pass for a neat hem on many fabrics. Note that serger blind hems work best on knits and other textured fabrics.

Blindhem foot, image courtesy of Bernina

Beading and Sequin Foot

Beaded edges are a piece of cake with this foot as it guides strings of beads or sequins along the edge of garments, bridal veils, etc. as it stitches them in place. Invisible thread works well with this foot for a no-see application.

Beading & sequin foot, image courtesy of Bernina

Beading & sequin foot, image courtesy of Bernina

Piping Foot

Who doesn’t love a beautifully piped seam? This foot is a slam dunk for both making the piping and inserting it into a seam. Note that there is a maximum diameter for the piping to fit the foot groove, so double check before purchasing. Some brands offer multiple sizes of piping feet to accommodate different cord sizes.

Piping foot, image courtesy of Bernina

Piping foot

Gathering Foot

Whether you’re ruffling sheer fabric or adding a ruffle to a flat fabric piece, this foot is helpful for both functions. Most are adjustable so you can control the gathering fullness while you finish the fabric edges at the same time.

Gathering foot, image courtesy of Bernina

Wavy Edge Foot

If you’re into dance costuming, eveningwear or bridalwear, this may be a must-have foot for you. There’s a hole to guide clear fishing line or wire so you can serge over it to create undulating edges, from smaller lettuce edging to full-on giant waves. It saves having to hold and guide the line on your own to be sure that the serging encases it without any nicks.

Lace/Trim Foot

No more trim wrestling needed with this foot, as the built-in guide places flat lace or trim along the edge with aplomb, allowing you to serge it in place. It’s adjustable for precise placement.

Clear Foot

Nothing beats a clear view no matter what you’re serging, and many brands offer a clear foot for better visibility with general serging.

All photos courtesy of Bernina. Used with permission


~Linda Griepentrog

Linda is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and two dogs, Yohnuh and Abby. Contact her at .

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Tagged With: serger feet, serging

June 25, 2021

Matching Points

Nothing causes quilters more angst than getting perfect points on their blocks. With multiple small pieces often combined into a single block, keeping points and seams aligned can be tricky, but there are a few tricks that help with the task. If you’re not a quilter, never fear, these same principles can apply to garment sewing where seams come together and opposing parts need to align. Think about a pieced bodice, a yoke/bodice joining, or an artful pieced jacket.

Match points in quilt blocks examples
Matched points on a quilt block

Point to Point

Lining up adjacent seams is easier if the opposing seam allowances are pressed in different directions. For example, on the upper half of a 4-patch block, press the seam allowances to the left; on the lower half of the block, press the seam allowances to the right.

Image showing seam allowances in opposite direction
Seam allowances in opposite direction

When the sections are placed right sides together, the sewn seams will be on top of each other and the seam allowances will nest together for a perfect match. Place a pin through the sewn seam so that it falls in the same place on the lower layer and then stitch, removing the pin as you come to it. Most machine manufacturers do not recommend stitching over pins.

Example of aligned corners
Aligned corners

This same process works for stitching together half-square triangle blocks. Press seams for adjacent blocks/rows in opposite directions so the seam allowances will nest during the joining process. Place a pin through to match the seams, then stitch, and you should come out with a perfect match {B-1, B-2}.

To test before stitching, fold back the seam allowances and check for the point match.

Image checking point alignmnet
Checking point alignmnet

Some quilters prefer to press seams open instead of to one side. In this instance, careful pinning if required for matching points as there isn’t the nesting seam allowance advantage.

Quilt seams pressed open. Image courtesy of Bernina
Quilt seams pressed open. Image courtesy of Bernina

What if?

What if your points or seams don’t match? In most instances, taking out a few inches of the seam on either side of the mismatched seam allows for some readjustment and easing to realign the seam matching, then you can just restitch the open area.

Example of mismatched points on a quilt block
Mismatched points on a quilt block

If you’re comfortable leaving the mismatched seam, an easy way to camouflage it to simply tie the quilt at the corners. The yarn ties will hide the seam matching issues and no one will be the wiser. It won’t win you any awards in a quilt show, but it may still be a great quilt to please a child or loved one.

Sashed Seams

Many quilt patterns have strips placed between rows of blocks. These strips, whether vertical or horizontal, are called sashing. Many quilt patterns have sashing strips in both directions; if so, sew the vertical strips between the blocks first, then add the horizontal ones between the rows.

Example of sashing
Blocks aligned with sashing between

Getting blocks lined up on both sides of the sashing strip is much the same as aligning within the block or row, except that there’s now a strip between the rows.

To keep things aligned, sew a row of blocks to one side of the sashing strip, matching center points. Then fold down the sashing strip onto the blocks and mark the adjacent seamline locations on the wrong side of the sashing. Mark at each vertical sashing strip location across the quilt top width.

Markings on fabric
Mark adjacent sashing seamlines

Pin the next row of blocks in place, matching the vertical sashing seams to the marks across the quilt width. Stitch, removing the pins as you come to them and voila, perfectly aligned blocks.

Example of lining up sashing
Pin sashing at markings

~Linda Griepentrog
Linda is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and two dogs, Yohnuh and Abby. Contact her at .

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Tagged With: matching points, quilt blocks, quilting, sewing

June 23, 2021

How To Use a Bamboo Point Turner

In this short sewing basics video, we show you how to use a bamboo point turner. If you think this tool is only used for one thing, think again! See what else it can do and why you need it in your sewing space.


~Sheryl Belson

 

Tagged With: point turner, sewing basics

June 18, 2021

Is Your SewJo Languishing?

What is a languishing sewjo you ask? I recently read articles in both the New York Times and NPR about this new condition. It’s apparently a real thing that isn’t depression but is a lingering state of “meh.” When I read it, I immediately thought – YES! This validates what I have been feeling!

My sewing room has been largely silent the past year. I just haven’t been able to muster up the enthusiasm and sense of sewing adventure I have come to enjoy for so many years. Where did it go? I have forced myself through making a shirt, a dress, and a quilt top since June 2020 — only 3 projects in the past year! I have been seeing reports of so many of our members sewing up a storm during their COVID quarantine life and, honestly, I have responded with mixed feelings of jealousy and guilt. I have wondered what is wrong with me.

dark sewing room

Life changed for everyone this past year. While my details differ from yours, the element of changed life is common to all. My husband recently commented that he hopes I get back to sewing one day. Ouch! That felt like a punch in the gut. Don’t get me wrong, my husband is my biggest fan and supporter so I wasn’t offended, but the reality of his statement is what punched my gut.

So now what?

Clearly, I am a work in progress so I can’t title this part as 5 steps to an Exciting Sewing Life. Instead, I can share where my journey is taking me.

Happy womanI decided to take a few steps that I hope will re-ignite the enthusiastic passion I have felt for sewing and that I miss and started exploring some new sewing adventures. For years I have loved being almost exclusively a garment sewist. Since pandemic quarantine life, I can’t seem to get excited about making clothes, so I’m going to try a few different things.

  • I want to finish up the last part of quilting a Bar Chart quilt top. Just finishing something will be energizing!
  • I have made several purses before, but when I saw the new Barbara purse pattern and kit from Sallie Tomato, I felt that old surge of enthusiasm. I purchased the kit, and it is on my cutting table to start right after I finish that quilt.
  • I recently learned about scrappy applique quilting by Shannon Brinkley and the artistic twist on quilting intrigues me. Maybe that will be the next thing I try

Appointment calendar imageI also decided to make a few sewing appointments with myself. If I schedule some time to dedicate to this craft I have loved so much, I am bound to experience those dopamine hits it has given me all those times before. But I have also promised myself a lot of grace as I reclaim what feels a little bit lost at the moment. No more jealousy — just appreciation for what others create. No more guilt — just patience as I explore what sewing adventures await while I gently reacquainted myself with my sewing room.

If the past year has been a season of incredible sewing, I salute you and appreciate what you have shown and shared. It has reminded me of all the possibilities! But if you slipped into a languishing sewjo as I did, I hope sharing my reality has given you space to think about how you might head back to your sewing room and reclaim the passion for sewing we have all shared. I can’t wait to see where we go!


~Sheryl Belson

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Tagged With: getting back to sewing, languishing, sewing

June 13, 2021

Sewing Basics: Sewing Machine Terms

It’s National Sewing Machine Day! Spend 17 minutes with us in this video and learn about 6 different parts of your sewing machine. Want to learn more? If you aren’t a member already, we hope you’ll consider joining ASG — we would love to meet and sew with you!


~Sheryl Belson

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Tagged With: bobbin, feed dog, hand wheel, presser foot, sewing machine, thread spool

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