ASG Sewing Blog – Page 49

March 12, 2021

Covid Sewing: Chapter Stories

Central Illinois Chapter

The Central Illinois chapter members, spearheaded by Charlotte Cronin and Vicki Ghidina, made repairs to 52,000 N95 protective masks for OSF Healthcare. The elastic in those masks had deteriorated and without their help of ASG members, friends and family, the masks would have been deemed unusable. Instead, these mask angels assured that this critical PPE item was able to be used to protect healthcare workers. Congratulations to all! Read the full story

Dayton, OH Chapter

And as the world went in to lockdown, the Dayton chapter encouraged its members to make face masks or sew other community service projects. With the stay at home order, here’s how members, Carol Coleman, set up a one woman very efficient assembly line. Each step was completed for all the masks before going to the next step. She pre-washed some donated cotton fabric, then used a Silhouette Pattern that covers the face with no gaps to cut out all of the fabric. From there, it was on to serging the curved part of the lining and placing the inner lining of either a knit or old sheeting on top of the two outer sections which were cut out right sides together and serged this curve (4 layers). Then it was on to opening the curved seams and placed the lining and and the outer fabric wrong sides together and stitching around each mask. Some time at the ironing board allowed for pressing and folding up the 1/2″ for the casing. The ribbon or 1/4″ bias tape (sewn closed) was cut and enclosed in the casing. In 4 days time, 75 masks were completed and on their way to a medical supplier in Long Island, NY.

North Jersey Chapter

Anne Marie Soto was interviewed by NorthJersey.com, part of the USA Today Network, sharing the North Jersey’s chapter’s enthusiastic readiness and support to make masks for healthcare facilities in the area. Read the full story

Plano Chapter

Sheryl Belson shares a funny video she made regarding making masks.

Sacramento, CA Chapter

More than 30 members of the Sacramento chapter shared their time and talents by making thousands of masks for area hospitals. There is no doubt that their efforts touched the hearts of the recipients of these masks of love. Read the full story

March 5, 2021

DIY Table Runner

Run, Run… Table Runners

A table runner can be used to add color and interest to any part of your home décor, showcase a display of collectibles, or it can be used simply to protect the dining table surface. You get multiple functions in one! A runner can even be used over a tablecloth to double the decorating punch.

Runners can be as simple as a length of fabric with both edges fringed—a perfect project for kids to make, or they can be more elaborate as a canvas for stenciling, stitching, piecing and quilting.

Don’t limit the use of a runner to an eating table—they can also be used on dressers, coffee tables, buffets, breakfast bars, atop shelving units and other flat surfaces.

Fabric

Fabric for runners runs the gamut from burlap for a casual look to velvet, brocade, organza or sequins for a more elaborate occasion. Runners can be single layer, or combined with batting and backing to offer more protection to the table surface. If the runner goes on a patio table, consider a laminate, oilcloth or other outdoor fabric.

Edge Finishes

Edge finishes can be simple fringe, applied trim, binding, lace, piping or narrow hems. Or, for a reversible look, make each side different with encased edges. It’s easy to combine Thanksgiving and Christmas in one double-sided runner.

Runner Ends

Runner ends can be pointed, round or square. Because runners can be shorter than the table length, the same length or longer with a generous drop, there are creative opportunities for end finishes. Tassels, beads or decorative fringes are often added for weight if the runner extends beyond the table length.

Table runners can be used to dress any table shape, from rectangular to circular. On rectangular tables, they can be placed lengthwise down the center, at one end or crosswise. Multiple crosswise runners can double as placemats. Runners can also be combined both lengthwise and crosswise on a table, visually connecting diners.

Use coordinating fabric to make napkins to accent your runner.

Size Wise

So how wide should a runner be? While there are no absolutes and it’s purely a matter of preference, the general rule is that a runner should be about 1/3 the width of table if it will be displayed lengthwise. This allows for place settings on both sides without having plates teetering half on and half off the runner. So, for a 48” table, the width should be about 13”-16”.

And how long? Again, a matter of preference. If the runner is longer than the table, there should be a 6” fabric overhang on each end. If it’s going over a tablecloth, the runner should not hang below the tablecloth edge. It should also not hit the seat of any guests. On a buffet table accent, the runner could go all the way to the floor as it won’t interfere with diners.

When figuring length, it’s important to consider any leaves that might be added to the table, as you might need longer runners if you’re adding leaves to increase the table length.

Another consideration for length is family pets (and small kiddos) who might be intrigued with dangling tassels, beads, etc. and opt for pulling the runner off the table surface sending any breakables crashing to the floor.

Runners roll up for easy storage, so plan to make several for different occasions.

~Linda Griepentrog
Linda is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and two dogs, Yohnuh and Abby. Contact her at .

March 1, 2021

Fireside Chat: Ann Williamson

We are talking with handmade designer of women’s apparel, Ann Williamson. Ann is sure to get your creative juices flowing full force. Watch our 30 minute chat to learn about her creative process, her love of kimono silk, and her fun interaction with Ruth Bader Ginsberg.

~Sheryl Belson

February 26, 2021

Corner Cues: Mitered Binding Corners

If binding a quilt is one of your least favorite tasks, and that simple directive in the instructions that says “Miter the corners as you bind the edges” leaves you bewildered, read on.

A mitered binding corner is simply a clever way to make a neat flat corner. It creates a fold at 45° to the edge. Mitered corners are less bulky than lapped corners and give a professional look to your binding.

Step by Step

To miter a corner, begin sewing the double-fold binding to one edge of the quilt, matching the cut edges of the binding to the trimmed edge of the layered quilt right side.

As you approach the corner of the quilt, stop stitching ¼” from the perpendicular edge (1).

Move the fabric just clear of the presser foot, and fold the binding back at a 45° angle to the edge you just sewed (2). At this point the unsewn binding length will be extending at right angles to the edge you just sewed.

Fold the binding again, this time matching the cut edges to the perpendicular quilt edge (the 45° fold is between the binding and the quilt) (3). There will be a fold at the corner that matches the quilt edge you just sewed the binding to.

Begin sewing again on the ¼” seam line and sew the next edge—you’ll be sewing over the fold you just made (4). When you get to the second corner, repeat the process and repeat for the remaining corners.

When the binding is attached on all edges, fold the binding at a 45° angle at each corner underside. Set the bulk of the fold in the opposite direction of that on the quilt front. Hand-stitch the folded binding edge in place around the quilt. The underside miter should look as good as the front side (5).

If you’re not making a quilt, this same mitering technique works to bind any edge like a collar, cuff, jacket front or pocket, as long as the corner is a 90° square.

February 19, 2021

Back to Basics: Machine Embroidery

Machine embroidery is one of the hottest ways to personalize your sewing and add your unique touch to your handmade items as well as store bought purchases. It can help turn a ho-hum item into a one-of-a-kind masterpiece. We must warn you, however, this aspect of sewing is definitely addictive and, unfortunately, can be quite expensive.

Needle

To get started, you need an embroidery machine. Most of the major manufacturers have a number of models that range in price from less than $400 to, well, let’s just say more than the cost of a car. Some of the models are embroidery only, while others are combo machines that allow you to do all your sewing as well as embroidery. Which brand should you buy? There are good arguments to be made for all of them, but perhaps the best choice is to buy one from a reputable dealer in your area. A dealer can provide both lessons and regular maintenance on your machine which can be better than the few dollars you save from buying online.

Hoops

One of the features that can influence your decision is hoop size. A hoop is used to hold the fabric and moves it in the machine so the design can be stitched. Many of the entry level machines come with only 4” x 4” hoops. That is the size of the design area that can be stitched on your item. This is a great size for over the pocket designs on t-shirts or children’s clothing, but if your intent is to embroider elaborate designs on jacket backs, then look for a machine that can accommodate larger designs. Hoop sizes are getting larger each year, with a 16” hoop currently one of the largest in the home sewing market. Machines have embroidery arms to hold the hoops and are programmed for specific movements and cannot accommodate just any size hoop. So just because the manufacturer makes a larger size hoop doesn’t mean that a particular machine can use the larger size. Always check the specs for a particular machine.

The basic hoop is composed of an inner and outer plastic ring that generally fit together to hold the surface to be embroidered. While most of these hoops have screws to tighten the outer hoop over the inner one, in recent years more innovative hoops have come on the market. Some machines can use magnetic hoops that rely on strong magnets to hold the stitching surface in place and prevent hoop marks from being left on the surface. Others are spring loaded to make the hooping process easier.

Stabilizers

Stitching a design on a fabric adds not only weight to the fabric, but also stress as the needle and threads continues to perforate and pull. While some heavy fabrics can handle this without any help, most would do well to have a stabilizer for added support. A stabilizer is a specially made backing that generally goes in the hoop with the fabric to help support the stitches and prevent the fabric from distorting. Choosing the perfect stabilizer can be a daunting task with so many manufacturers, weights, sizes, and styles. Generally speaking, most experts will recommend using what’s called a “cutaway” stabilizer for most embroidery. As the name implies, the excess stabilizer that is used on the back of the fabric is cut away after the design is stitched and the remainder stays in the item. This provides the added support that is often needed not only through the stitching process but through multiple washings afterward.

While this support after the item is stitched is important, many embroiderers dislike the look and feel of the cutaway stabilizer. The extra support can hinder the smooth drape of a fabric and the leftover edges can irritate skin when the back of the design comes in contact with sensitive areas. When a lighter hand is preferred, a “tear-away” stabilizer can be used. The tear away is more loosely constructed and tears easily where the needle perforates it. This provides a cleaner look to the interior but sacrifices long term stability.

There are also stabilizers specifically designed for use on the right side of the fabric. These stabilizers are intended to prevent stitches from sinking into plush fabrics and getting lost. These “wash-aways” or water soluble ones are for temporary use only and disappear when placed in water. They are also used in free-standing lace—but that’s another discussion.

Needles & Threads

While it may be enticing to try to use regular sewing thread to embroider, for best results specially made embroidery thread gives the best results. These threads come in a multitude of colors and have an added sheen that regular sewing thread lacks. Most designs are meant to be stitched with a 40 weight thread. Using a different weight of thread can change how a design stitches out as well as how the final result will look. A thicker, heavier weight thread (30 or less) can make the design too dense and cause thread breakage or bunching up of threads while stitching. A lighter weight can cause gaps in coverage and allow fabric colors to show through the stitching. Threads can be made of cotton, polyester, rayon, and metallic. The current recommendation is a polyester thread. Changes in manufacturing methods give the new polyesters the luster of rayons but with more durability. Estimated shelf life for polyester thread is about 100 years. Rayons are beautiful, but do not hold their color when bleached; and cottons create lint that is harmful to the machine.

Most embroidery designs use a special bobbin thread instead of a matching thread in the bobbin. This thread is a lighter weight than the top thread, and can be purchased on cones or pre-wound bobbins. Always be sure to check with your manufacturer to determine if pre-wounds are recommended for your particular machine.

When using the 40 weight thread, a 75/11 needle size is generally used. Ball point, jersey, or stretch needles can be used on knits, while a universal or embroidery needle works well on wovens. Embroidery machines stitch at about 1,100 stitches per minute and can build up heat due to the friction of the rapid and continuous stitching. This wears out needles quickly and requires frequent changing of needles after a few hours of stitching to prevent their bending and breaking.

Embroidery Designs

Embroidery machines require a specifically created computerized design before anything can be stitched out. Some machines come with generic designs like flowers, animals, holiday motifs, etc. Other machines are themed with Disney, Pixar, and even Star Wars motifs. In addition to the designs found in the machine, most manufacturers also sell designs that can be transferred to their machines through both direct and wireless computer links, flash drives, or older specialty cards. A quick search of the internet will also bring up a multitude of sites that sell these digitized designs. Before buying from an outside source, it is important to know the format, or language that your particular machine uses. ART, DST, EXP, HUS, JEF, PCS, PES, SEW, VIP, VP3, and XXX are just some of the designations you may see. Buying the incorrect format is like speaking to someone in a foreign language. The machine won’t be able to translate to stitch out the design.

In addition to the format and size of the design, it is also important to know the stitch count. The stitch count is the number of stitches needed to produce the design. If a design is extremely dense with a high number of stitches used to create it, some of the smaller machines may not be able to handle that much data for stitching it out.

It’s also a good idea to remember that not all digitized designs are created equal. Many digitizers will offer free samples of their designs so you can test them out and see for yourself the quality of their work. You will soon learn which designers are your favorites and produce designs that meet your needs and budget. And if you are a bit of a computer geek and want a challenge, there are digitizing programs for the home embroiderer to create their own designs. You can take your drawing and turn it into your own one of a kind design.

Machine embroidery is a great way to challenge your creativity and expand the possibilities of your sewing projects. And if the embroidery bug has bitten, be sure to check out the ASG neighborhood groups that are springing up across the country. With many of them now online, these neighborhood groups welcome members from outside their normal chapter territory. They are an excellent source of inspiration and embroidery knowledge.

~Rosemary Fajgier