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October 16, 2020

Sewing Basics: Snips, Rippers, Turners, and Stilettos

In this article, we review a catch-all “Other” category of basic sewing tools that includes thread snips, seam rippers, point turners and stilettos:

Thread Snips

Thread snips, also called thread nippers, thread clippers, and thread cutters—are small, often spring-loaded, scissors used for trimming threads and are easy to keep close to your sewing machine for quick access to trim at the end of each seam. Some varieties are more heavy duty and can even be used for notching fabric.

Thread snips come in various designs, sharpness, and price points.

  • Designs
    Fiskars Crafts Premier Ultra-Sharp Thread Snip with blade guard (on Amazon)
    • Thread snips generally have a pointed tip, but you can find them with a blunt tip as well.
    • Some have a metal handle and some handles are covered in rubber to make for a more non-slip handling.
    • The Gingher G-TNKE and Sharp Point Quick Clip both have a special design in the handle where you grip it with your index finger which can reduce the “slip factor”.
    • Fiskars offers one that includes a blade guard for added safety.
    • Generally, they are about 4” long making them easy to hold in your hand
  • Price Points
    • As with everything, you can find nippers at various price points. Depending on your desires, you can spend as little as $12 for 12 nippers with the idea you will toss them when they dull or you can pay $28 for a single nipper with the idea you will sharpen them and use them for life.
  • Sharpness
    • Some are limited to thread snipping but others are touted for their ability to cut through tougher materials, like small twigs, fishing line and fabric. Choose based on what you plan to cut!
    • Nippers that have been hot forged and/or made of stainless steel or double-plated chrome will have the longest life and most durable sharpness.

Seam Rippers

Seam rippers are a small tool used for removing stitches. There are two primary styles:

  • The forked style tapers to a sharp point on the longer side making it easy to slip under the stitches while the other side often has a plastic ball covering the end. The sharp cutting edge is in the center of the fork. There are many options in this style. In fact, Dritz even sells one with the “extra” of a magnifying glass and LED light to help us see those little stitches. Some reviews indicate using those extras are a bit fiddly, but with practice, can be useful. Oliver + S created a 2-minute tutorial on two methods to use this style of seam ripper that you may find helpful.

  • The curved blade style looks a bit like a scalpel with the sharp edge is along one side.  This style often has replaceable blades, much like a rotary cutter. It can also be gentler on the fabric than other types of conventional seam rippers, as the razor-sharp curve glides through any kind of stitching. Embroidery stitching is more easily removed with these seam rippers. Just pay close attention when unstitching because these blades are very sharp.
  • A third, less common version, is battery operated. An example of this style is the Galaxy Notions Electric Seam Ripper. It goes down the seam between each of the fabric layers to remove the stitches without cutting into the fabric. It is reportedly durable and sharp but does require frequent battery replacement.

No matter which style you choose, it is always important to use care not to slice your fabric as you pick out your stitches.

Point Turners

Point turners are usually made from either plastic or bamboo. They are a great tool for creating sharp corners and can also be used to crease or mark fabric temporarily. Be careful not to poke the pointed end through your fabric as you turn out your corners. Simply insert the pointed end inside the corner and pull the fabric over the end. If you have trimmed your seams well, you should have a beautiful sharp point.

Here’s a 1-minute video tutorial that will give you some quick tips on how to use your point turner. You may be surprised about some extra functions you can get out of this handy little tool!

Stilettos

Stilettos, sometimes called awls, are a great help at the sewing machine to help move fabric under the presser foot as well as several other functions. They come in a variety of styles and materials such as metal, bone, and wood. Regardless of style, they will have at least one, and sometimes two, pointed ends and a handle to hold onto. The sharp point can ride along close to your presser foot and act like a safe extra finger to help you hold fabric in place while sewing. They can be useful when picking out stitches or turning under small edges of fabric. They can also hep you to safely secure your fabric while pressing without getting too close to a dangerously hot iron.

Many stiletto options are available in sewing shops but for the non-traditionalist, you can improvise with things like a bamboo skewer (think shish-kabobs), a porcupine quill or even an ice pick.

We hope you found something new or were reminded of something old as you read through this list of sewing tools. And if you decide to try a new tool or replace an old one, don’t forget to take advantage of your member discount as you do.

See our full series of Sewing Basics/Learn to Sew articles.


~Sheryl Belson

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Tagged With: nippers, point turners, seam ripper, sewing basics, stilettos, thread snips

October 11, 2020

Fireside Chat: Anita Morris, Anita by Design

In this video, Sheryl Belson interviewed Anita Morris from Anita by Design. You will love Anita’s exuberance, authenticity, joy and sparkling smile! She shares her passion for helping people learn to sew, her unique way of planning her sewing projects, as well as how she has weathered some of life’s hardest moments. This chat is one you definitely don’t want to miss. You can follow Anita on Instagram and YouTube.


~Sheryl Belson

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Tagged With: learn to sew, sewing educator

October 9, 2020

What I’m Sewing: Itch-to-Stitch Bonn Shirt

Q. Item Created 
A. Blouse

Q. Independent Pattern Designer
A.
Itch-to-Stitch

Q. Name and Number of Pattern
A.
Bonn Shirt/Dress

Q. Fabric Used:
A. Picasso Rayon Poplin in teal

Q. Special Embellishments/Notions Used
A. Superior MasterPiece cotton thread

Q. Skill level required?
A.
Advanced beginner or Intermediate

Q. Are the instructions easy to follow?
A.
Yes, and they are quite thorough. There are several sleeve variations of long, short, mid-length and flare; this is the long flare. I’ve made the mid-length also, in a blue rayon print. Have not made the dress.

Q. Are you pleased with the finished result?  Did it meet your expectations?
A.
Very pleased. I had a bit of difficulty with the hem this time. I chose to use a rolled hem foot to make it simpler than trying to press 1/8″ double ironed hem with slippery rayon. The result is that the hem has a fluttery look, which mimics the flared sleeve.

Q. Did it look like the picture?
A.
Yes, it did.

Q. Did you make any modifications in the pattern?
A.
No.

Q. Are there any changes you would have made?
A. I might try it with a straight hem, rather than a curved one, and perhaps add a side slit. If I did that, I would also do the mid-length sleeve and make that hemmed rather than gathered and banded.

Q. Did the pattern teach you any unique or special techniques?
A.
This was the first flared sleeve I’ve sewn. I like the effect.

Q. Would you make this again?
A.
Yes.

Q. Would you recommend this pattern to others?
A.
Yes, I would.

Pattern Link: https://itch-to-stitch.com/pattern-release-bonn-shirt-dress/

I purchased the fabric from a store in Missoula, Montana that also has a web site, The Confident Stitch. The online store and their customer service customer are top notch.


~Joanne Jensen, Plano Chapter

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Tagged With: altering sewing patterns, pattern, sewing

October 2, 2020

Sewing with Multi-Color Threads

Sulky PolyLite Thread

The sewist’s crayons!

Not really designed for construction, variegated threads are multiple colors within a single strand. When you look at a spool, you may see distinct color patterns or simply a blending of similar colors, depending on the brand, how the thread is dyed and how it’s wound on the spool or cone. Stitching with these threads on your sewing machine also produces differing results. Sometimes, surprises happen unexpectedly!

The spacing and repetition of colors within the spool vary by thread type and brand. Some multi-color threads repeat colors in a regular sequence, others offer random color repeats and others may change hue every inch, or every few feet. Colors can be related by shade, such as a light, medium and dark tone of the same color, or they can be bold contrasting colors, like a mix of red, white and blue within the same strand.

Sometimes the color change is distinct, abruptly changing from one to the another, but more often the changes are gradual with a melding from one shade to the next.

How the thread is dyed determines how it stitches out, in combination with other factors like stitch length and width, and the actual stitch selection.

Look for variegated threads in multiple fiber options—cotton, polyester, rayon, metallic, silk and texturized nylon. They also come in different thread sizes, depending on the use. Heavier weights are ideal for multi-color free-motion quilting.

Stitch Subtleties

Variegated threads can be used in a number of ways. Satin stitching takes on an entirely new persona creating stripes of color—either distinct or melding.

Top to bottom: Sulky Ultratwist, Superior Rainbow, DMC Cotton, Sulky PolyLite
Appliqué using variegated thread; photo by Bernina

A striped appliqué edge is interesting as well. Topstitching with variegated thread is fun, free-motion quilting allows for blending colors found in fabric prints, and the world is your oyster with decorative machine stitches.

When selecting decorative stitches, look for those that are formed only with a forward motion for the best color clarity. If you choose reverse-motion stitches, you can end up with slightly different colors on top of each other as the stitch is formed.

Variegated thread also makes interesting serging stitching lines, whether used as an edge finish or for flatlocking within a garment. Unless both sides show, use the variegated thread only in the upper looper and needle, along with a coordinating solid in the lower looper.

Machine embroidery is a great place to use variegated threads for either subtle or bold shade changes. But, be aware that depending on the thread patterning, you can end up with stripes in your programmed design.

Before committing to a project, be sure to test-stitch with the variegated thread and stitch settings you plan to use to see how the color variations will actually stitch out. Or, better yet, try the same design with different variegated thread types and brands.

A New Twist

Valdani hand-dyed cotton

Another type of multi-color thread is twisted thread—two or three plies of different colors twisted together to create a heathery look. Look for analogous color shades (like light blue and dark blue) creating a denim look, or more contrast in colors for bolder effect.

Twist threads are ideal for embroidering animal motifs with fur or feathers, topstitching and decorative stitching where you don’t want stripes to be prominent.

Hand Sewing

There are several types of hand-stitching threads available with multi-coloration. Look for embroidery floss and fine wools, as well as multiple sizes of variegated pearl cottons.

Superior King Tut thread

So, add some color changing to your world!


~Linda Griepentrog
Linda is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and two dogs, Yohnuh and Abby. Contact her at .

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Tagged With: stitches, thread, variegated thread

September 25, 2020

Rise of the Sew Bro

Why Men Have Been Crafting Their Own Clothes Over Lockdown

by Nick Pope, adapted from a story on esquire.com/uk/ on 8/18/20

It all started with a pair of old curtains. In late March, as Colorado crept into lockdown, 23-year-old Jonathan Simanjuntak began his search for a new hobby. “Quarantine was getting really serious,” he told me from his home in Aurora, a city spread across two of the state’s hardest hit counties. It didn’t take him long to land on sewing. “If I’m being super honest, the fact that I can’t afford Gucci and APC [a French RTW brand] had a lot to do with it.”

Before the local government could stop him, Jonathan raided thrift shops for fusty fabrics, damaged clothes, and any rag that might prove useful. Three months later, after a lot of trial-and-error and YouTube tutorials, he uploaded his first big project to the 260,000-strong Reddit community /r/sewing: a Dickies-inspired work jacket, upcycled from a blanket and some floral curtains he found at Goodwill. It immediately shot to the top of a subreddit almost entirely dominated by dresses. “Thank you everyone for the nice comments,” he wrote at the top of the post, which gained seven thousand upvotes. “I’m smiling a lot!”

Fusty: smelling stale, damp, or stuffy

It should come as no great surprise that /r/sewing has grown in popularity. As stringent lockdown measures loomed, the world got busy keeping busy. Google searches for “sewing machines” jumped by 400 percent in the U.S., and John Lewis [a British department store] reported that sales of them had risen by 127 percent over April. What might come as a surprise, however, is the number of men who began posting their own creations—from face masks to full outfits—on the forum, a real rarity before the pandemic hit. “I see a lot of new seamsters like me popping up in the subreddit every day,” Jonathan told me. “The first time you put your own work on your body feels like magic—it’s wild addicting.”

Merchant & Mills Foreman Jacket pattern
Merchant & Mills Foreman Jacket pattern

According to Merchant & Mills, a former warehouse-turned-sewing emporium in Rye, East Sussex, England, more men than ever are taking to the craft. The British draper received a month’s worth of orders each day at the start of lockdown, but it was their template for a men’s workwear silhouette that reigned supreme. “The Foreman Jacket shot through the roof. It was the best-selling pattern by miles,” says Carolyn Denham, who co-founded the company ten years ago. Even before lockdown, she noticed that men were finally beginning to see the value in producing their own clothes with long-lasting materials. “Sewing doesn’t have to be this mumsy, cutesy thing with pink scissors,” she told me. “Men relate to it being a ‘quality’ thing. I think they hook straight into that.”

Redditor Mehedi Sarri, a 32-year-old librarian from Toulouse, France, learned to sew when he lost his job back in 2017. “When you start sewing, spending six to eight hours on a garment, you realize the value of your clothes.” he says. A new job in 2018 meant that Mehedi’s hobby fell by the wayside, but lockdown presented the perfect opportunity to get back on the horse. A fan of Japanese fabrics like Kokka and Nani IRO, he crafted his own shirts, coats, trousers, and of course, face masks. “Three of my friends expressed their will to have some training sessions with me.That made me so happy,” he says. “I also taught one friend how to sew right after confinement, and he made a bunch of masks.”

Ishmael Jasmin, a 20-year-old Redditor from Los Angeles, has even started selling his own streetwear pieces crafted with woven blanket materials, including a pair of Space Jam-themed shorts. “Sewing has been very beneficial to my mental health,” he told me. “Don’t get me wrong, some projects can be draining and annoying. But when I’m creating something, I don’t have to really worry about any outside noise. Just me and my machine is a perfect combo.”

Original article on esquire.com/uk/


~Betty Watts, ASG member
Betty was the publisher of the print edition of ASG Notions for 20 years. She says, “I like Jonathan’s word ‘seamsters’ much better than sewers or sewists.”

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Tagged With: jacket, men sewing, repurpose, seamsters

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