ASG Sewing Blog – Page 72

June 21, 2019

3 Ways to Ditch Fast Fashion

Buy Less, Wear More, Make Your Own Clothes

Greetings, my dear fellow fashion and sewing enthusiasts! I have a question and I want you to answer it honestly. Are you tired of the repetitive mass produced fashion that lacks both visual and structural quality? Because I sure am.

When I go clothing shopping, which I rarely do these days, the first thing I notice is how the quality of most wardrobe pieces deteriorated while the price tags actually went up. What’s up with that? Can’t quality, price and demand be a bit more in sync? Well, they can be, but not with fast fashion.

In this article, we’ll talk about how to ditch the boring fast fashion, save some pocket money and demonstrate your uniqueness, creativity and originality all at the same time. Sounds pretty good, doesn’t it? I’ll give you three simple, yet very helpful tips that will make everything I’ve just said possible. Shall we begin?

First Step: Buy Less

A certain 19th century poet once wrote that less is more.

I like the phrase because it can be applied to almost anything in life. The Japanese apply it to architecture and interior design, thus creating amazing structures. Race car drivers apply it to speed at times so they have more control over their vehicle and be able to overtake opponents. Some artists apply it to their art and, by doing so, express their inner emotional state more precisely to anyone seeing it.

This concept can be applied to fashion a well. You don’t need a thousand different combinations in your wardrobe. However, if you simply buy clothing without any thought, you’ll end up not wearing at least half of it because you won’t have the time for it. Yes, you’ll put that piece on two or three times after you’ve bought it but afterwards, it’ll hang in your closet collecting dust like an old box in your attic.

Let me tell you what I do instead and what you should at least try out. I buy clothing and accessories that I know I’ll wear at least once in a week. I create a few combinations while shopping and then when they become boring, I mix them up around with other pieces I already have. This gives me an opportunity to basically create a new wardrobe and I save money without sacrificing style. Best of all, I don’t force clothing pieces to stay in the closet and not fulfill their purpose of being worn.

Second Step: Wear More

This step has two meanings, both equally important. The first is about wearing more varied pieces. Buying less doesn’t necessarily mean wearing less, especially if you combine this step with the next one. Fashion isn’t about wearing only one combination and not improvising; it’s the exact opposite. Use what you have, buy as few additions as possible, and you’ll come up with amazing combinations for sure.

The second meaning is about wearing your clothes more often. Clothes are meant to be worn, not to just stand in your wardrobe like a plant in an office. As long as they didn’t get damaged or ruined, you have no reason not to wear them.

Third Step: Make Your Own Clothes

Now we’re at the most helpful step. Making your own clothes has never been easier! Sewing machines have become very affordable and easy to use. They can even be ordered online and shipped all over the world. It’s also easy to find instructional videos on the internet (ASG Members can find educational videos in the Members-Only area), so even if you’re a complete amateur, you can learn how to sew in a reasonably short period of time. Finally, you can earn a decent amount of money from home by sewing, again all thanks to the internet and the availability of places to sell your items.

But what are the benefits of making your own clothes? Although I do like to buy a clothing piece here and there, I sew most of my wardrobe myself. This gives me the ability to be unique with my creations. I enjoy wearing something that no one else owns! And when someone compliments my creation, I won’t lie, I brim with pride. I also sew for the economic benefit. You won’t believe how much money I save by making my own clothes. Finally, I sew for the sense of accomplishment I get when I finish sewing a piece and take a look at it. It’s amazing to see something usable being born from nothing but fabric and thread. It’s poetry!

Making your own clothes has never been easier than it is in this day and age.

If you want the best results, fuse the three steps together. Buy less finished clothing and purchase fabric instead. You will be able to create three to four pieces for the price of one ready-made item. And all that by making your own clothes! I told you it’s possible to save money while demonstrating your own creativity, uniqueness and ingenuity. And participating in sewing challenges such as “Me Made May” is the perfect opportunity to hone your sewing skills. Those challenges help you focus on the goals you want to achieve when it comes to your sewing.

So, what will it be? Will you follow only one or two of my steps, or will you go all out and combine them into a masterpiece? Whatever you decide to do, try not to sacrifice style or originality for speed and availability. That’s not what fashion is about and you know it.

~ Helen Spencer, HelloSewing.com

June 14, 2019

Creating a Capsule Wardrobe

If you’ve browsed a fashion magazine in the last few years, you may have stumbled upon the idea of the “Capsule Wardrobe.”

The “inventor” of the Capsule Wardrobe is Susie Faux. In the 1970s, Susie owned a boutique in London called Wardrobe. She noticed that it was becoming more common for women to buy MORE when it came to their wardrobes. More tops, more pants, more shoes, more accessories. But with all of this MORE, they actually got less: Lower quality items that would be out of style in a season or two. She came up with the idea of the Capsule Wardrobe as a limited collection of timeless pieces to mix and match to create a variety of looks. Outfits that would last a decade, not just a season.

Though Susie coined the term decades ago, Capsule Wardrobes have recently come back into the spotlight as consumers shift from the idea of buying a lot of low-quality, often low-priced, items, to the idea of owning fewer items that are made to last. This has been extremely true for the clothing industry, where fast fashion – cheaply made and ill-fitting clothing for cheap prices – has ruled for years now.

As any sewist will tell you, the best way to control the quality of your clothing… is to make it yourself. And so comes the idea of the handmade Capsule Wardrobe. But how would you even get started?

The Starting Point

The best place to start is with a list. Sit down and make a list of the clothing you wear most often. Tops, bottoms, shoes, and accessories, everything but undergarments. If you wear skirts often, you may want to include one in your capsule wardrobe. If you can’t choose between leggings and jeans, you may want to create one of each. Capsule Wardrobes aren’t meant to put you out of your comfort zone or force you to adopt a new style. They a way to cut down your wardrobe and truly highlight your unique style. And your Capsule Wardrobe may look completely different from your friends’.

Next, you’ll want to figure out if you will swap your wardrobe out seasonally. If you live in an area where you experience very different temperatures as the seasons change, this is probably the best choice for you. Alternatively, you may want to build one core Capsule Wardrobe if you experience similar weather all year long. If you choose this option, you’ll want to think a lot about how you can layer items to accommodate mild weather changes.

You Make the Rules

There is no specific number of clothing items you need to limit yourself to, but some example formulas for capsule wardrobes are:

50 “base” items workout, lounge, layering, outerwear, and accessories, as well as 9 tops, 5 bottoms and 5 shoes that switch seasonally
37 items per season
36 total items – not counting anything you don’t wear out of the house, like loungewear and formalwear

While 50 items may seem like a lot to you, consider what you wear each day. An outfit with a tank top, tee, headband, earrings, necklace, bracelet, belt, pants, and shoes counts as 9 items! Some Capsule Wardrobe owners strip down to just 10 items, while others go over the 50-item line. Your perfect number will depend on your lifestyle. The key things to keep in mind are to focus on quality, timeless style, and getting rid of excess.

The Benefits

Why do people choose to switch to a Capsule Wardrobe? There are a lot of common answers:

To cut down on the amount of clothing thrown away… and taking up space in our overflowing landfills
To save money by purchasing fewer items that will last longer
To define your style
To save time choosing outfits in the morning
To improve style by wearing items cut for your body

And while there are many benefits to creating a Capsule Wardrobe, there are even more benefits to sewing it on your own:

To save even more by creating your own designer clothing without the designer cost
To have total control over material and fit
To feel the pride of knowing your amazing wardrobe came from your own two hands
To learn to make the clothing items that you enjoy wearing

DIY a Capsule Wardrobe

If you want to DIY a Capsule Wardrobe, here are some additional things to keep in mind:

Looking for Inspiration?

Capsule Wardrobe books on Amazon

Pinch of Yum

Who What Wear

The Scope of the Project: Chances are, you won’t be sewing yourself a pair of shoes. So these won’t count toward the total in your capsule wardrobe. The same goes for jewelry and many accessories. Additionally, you may already have a few items that would work great in your Capsule Wardrobe. Know your own pace and understand that it could take you months or longer to create all of the pieces for your wardrobe.
Your Color Scheme: In order for almost EVERY item to go with the other items in your Capsule Wardrobe, you’ll probably want to stick to a color scheme. There are a lot of resources out there that can help you choose the perfect color palette, including examples from other Capsule Wardrobe-wearers. Which leads to our next tip…
Inspiration From Non-DIY Capsule Wardrobes: There are MANY sewists out there who have built their own Capsule Wardrobes who you can look to for inspiration. But to get a full idea of what you can create with your Capsule Wardrobe, don’t forget to look at wardrobes of fashionistas who purchased the items in their collection.
Fabrics: No matter how often you’ll switch out your wardrobe, you’ll want to keep your fabrics in mind. You’ll want to make sure you have good movement, that you won’t have to dry clean the items and that you’ll just simply be comfortable. If you need some help figuring out which fabrics would work best for your Capsule Wardrobe, the ASG Facebook page or your local ASG chapter members are great resources!

If you’re not quite ready for a DIY Capsule Wardrobe, maybe this post will inspire you to clear items out of your closet that you haven’t worn in a while or start to work on more projects for your own wardrobe. As always, we’re here for support and inspiration!

Do you think you will ever create your own Capsule Wardrobe?

June 7, 2019

10-Minute Table Runner

It’s always helpful to have a quick project idea in your toolkit for those times when you need a quick gift or when you’ve finished a difficult project and you just need a simple win. This ten minute table runner is the perfect gift or pick-me-up project.

Material Required

Theme Print: 10″-12″ (1/3 yard) of theme print, width of fabric (WOF).
Coordinating Fabric: 18″ (1/2 yard) of coordinating fabric for back/border (WOF).

Note: If the fabrics are different widths, cut to match the widths.

Instructions

Place right sides together. Stitch along the long edge with ½ inch seam allowance.
Repeat, stitching the seam along the other long edge.
Press seams away from center fabric. (see Image #1)
Turn the right side to the outside. You now have a long tube.
Lay flat, press so the theme print is bordered evenly on the long side by the coordinating fabric. (see Image #2)
If necessary, trim the short sides to even them up.
Fold in half lengthwise so the theme fabric is facing out.
Sew a ¼” seam allowance across each short end. (see Image #3)
Press the seam open.
Turn the seam to the inside, forming a triangle, with coordinating fabric on the front of the triangle. (see Picture #4)
Finish with topstitch and buttons or other embellishments.

If you can’t quite visualize how these steps will work out, don’t worry! Just take one step at a time, referring to the pictures. Soon you will have created a quick new look for your table!

~ Akron Chapter

May 31, 2019

Alabama Chanin, a Pioneer of Slow Fashion

We have grown used to getting everything we want as fast as possible. Even in the fashion industry, fast fashion – otherwise known as inexpensive clothing made quickly and, typically, with lower quality – has become the norm. However, there is a burgeoning group of talented artisans who are fighting against bottom-barrel quality and prices through what has been tagged the Slow Fashion movement.

Member Exclusive: Check the Special Offers section for a new discount!

Slow Fashion Explained

Slow Fashion considers the quality of the clothing being produced, as well the processes and resources used to produce it.
Slow Fashion designers strive to make garments from high-quality, sustainable materials that are locally sourced whenever possible.
Slow Fashion clothing companies typically release fewer collections throughout the year than traditional clothing producers.
Slow Fashion garments are usually sold in smaller, boutique-style stores rather than department or big box stores.

The American Sewing Guild loves the growing momentum of the Slow Fashion movement. Who knows better than our own members that sewing your own clothing is the best way to ditch fast fashion and bring sustainability back to your wardrobe? And, inevitably, when discussion turns to a specific Slow Fashion company, one always comes to mind for beautiful and sustainable garments…

Alabama Chanin

“I became interested in the Alabama Chanin techniques about five years ago,” said Cathy, a member of the ASG St. Louis Chapter. “A local instructor was a skilled fashion designer who encouraged creativity and spoke of how the fashion process enriches our interests in sewing and the needlecraft process. She introduced us to the Alabama Chanin techniques and we were all immediately engaged.”

You’ve most likely already heard of Alabama Chanin but may not know the incredible back story of Natalie Chanin, the company’s founder. Natalie grew up in Florence, Alabama during a time when the cotton and textile industry was booming in the area. After finishing school in North Carolina, she moved to New York then onto Europe to pursue a fashion and design career. Unfortunately, during the years she was gone, the textile mills and production factories in her hometown closed and moved offshore.

Natalie’s first spark of inspiration for Alabama Chanin occurred when she was invited to a party in the late 90’s and created her own tee shirt to wear. She cut and embroidered the tee and arrived at the party to a wave of interest and requests for information about its source. She knew then that she had hit on the style of garment she was looking for; however, she still wanted her clothing brand to have more of an impact. Natalie wanted to bring jobs back to Florence. Alabama Chanin was officially launched in 2000 as a lifestyle brand with a focus on handmade clothing created from 100% organic cotton jersey and was created under the concept of Slow Fashion. As a Slow Fashion pioneer, Alabama Chanin also takes into consideration the working conditions and pay of factory employees.

In addition to pre-made garments, the brand provides open source information to creators interested in creating similar garments. Patterns and techniques are available for use through books, workshops and their School of Making which sells full projects kits via their website, as well as in stores around the world.

ASG Members Embrace Slow Fashion

Many ASG members have been motivated by the School of Making. Like Dian from the Nashville chapter:

“Creative, relaxed, rewarded—these three words describe the feelings I have when embroidering on my Alabama Chanin items. I love having a different concept of embroidery in my repertoire which I did not have previously. For me, doing something unusual is always a plus.”

Members enjoy an exclusive discount from Alabama Chanin. Check the Special Offers page for details.

Dian had been unable to join in when her chapter took a road trip to visit the Alabama Chanin factory and the School of Making. She was familiar with the brand but, at the time, didn’t believe it was her style. It wasn’t until she and Mary, the chapter’s President, connected with Cathy on the way to ASG conference that she finally understood the range of resources available under the brand. Cathy’s enthusiasm for Alabama Chanin projects changed Dian’s thinking and was further captured in a top Cathy created and wore to class. Dian instantly fell in love with the top and realized the open source style of education the brand encouraged meant that she could create the projects, then complete them in the style of embellishments that she favored herself. What a fantastic concept! Since then, Dian has been practicing her stitches and began work on a project that she fully expects to love.

Cathy shared her thoughts:

“I had never been interested in hand sewing before but found the process really charged my creative side,” said Cathy. “During the class, I started a long dress from one of Natalie Chanin’s books which I cut out, stenciled, and stitched. It took months to complete the dress but since then, I have been making hand-sewn garments continuously and always have an Alabama Chanin project waiting for my attention.

“I have made seven tops, three swing skirts, several pants, and two ponchos since that first dress. Although I have not mastered many stitches, I have done the running stitch, backstitch and cretan stitch (my favorite binding stitch, perhaps because it is one that I seem to do fairly well and love the results). Some tops are made using embroidery floss for the backstitch. Others have stenciled areas, some of which are cut and other areas are left uncut. The variety of looks you can achieve by changing the colors, stenciling, stitching method, and cutouts offers endless possibilities. It is always great to continue to learn new things.”

Dian is thankful not just for the resources and inspiration she’s received from Alabama Chanin, but for bringing business back to her area as well:

“I am fortunate to live only an hour from the studio where I can go to sew with other like-minded sewists. I extend my thanks to Natalie Chanin for bringing her talent home to Florence and for the opportunities and jobs her studio provides.”

My Personal Thoughts

Alabama Chanin is truly a unique company that puts as much focus on education and product quality as they do on selling their garments. I know I join many other sewists who are happy to have found the brand and learn from the resources they provide. Is is my hope that this blog post inspires you to jump into your own Alabama Chanin project!

Member Exclusive: Check the Special Offers section for an Alabama Chanin discount!

~ by Rita Johnson

May 24, 2019

Kenneth King: “Smart Fitting Solutions” Book Review

Smart Fitting Solutions by Kenneth D. King

Kenneth King coming to ASG Conference — Image from KennethDKing.com

If you have ever been frustrated with trying to get a garment to fit YOUR body, don’t despair. Help is on the way! Iconic designer and sewing educator Kenneth D. King has written a new book, Smart Fitting Solutions, that demystifies the fitting process for a multitude of problem areas for women no matter what their body type.

Perhaps you have journeyed down this fitting road before and have been confused with wordy explanations and unclear instructions of what to look for and how to achieve a solution.

What you will absolutely love about this book is the clear, concise text that accompanies the hundreds of beautiful photographs that are truly worth a thousand words each. Smart Fitting Solutions is like a graphic novel for sewing. Unlike a video that whirls by quickly, the photographs provide the reader an opportunity to review the brief text, then take the time to study the picture to really see what is being conveyed.

The impressive photographs are not the only aspect that make this book unique. Scattered throughout the book are King’s personal preferences and tips. These span topics like recycling a muslin, pattern making techniques, fixing gaping necklines, and even where to begin flaring a skirt. I liked that King distinguished between conventional techniques and his own preferences, allowing the reader to understand the reasoning behind the differences.

Smart Fitting Solutions Explained

The layout of the book begins with evaluating a figure and creating a personal “croquis” or sketch from which to determine characteristics for an individual. Again through pictures, when the proportions of fashion illustrators are modified to reflect the actual proportions of the individual, it becomes quite clear why the completed garment is not as flattering as the illustrations made it appear.

Six women from the Threads staff are featured wearing several different garments that are evaluated on fit and figure flattering aspects. After “reading” each, King then gives suggestions on both fitting and style that would enhance their appearance. He even gives ideas for modifying ready to wear to salvage those non-flattering garments. His insights provide an excellent starting point for choosing the right design aspect that does not work against a particular body type.

King’s fitting approach simplifies the process into three basic categories: net loss, net gain or no net change.

While these sound like complicated accounting terms, they are just his way of saying an area of the pattern is too large, too small, or just not in the right spot.

And the remaining 80% of the book is devoted to showing us how and where to add, remove, or rotate the fabric to place it where it is needed. (In Appendix 1 he has included diagrams of a body as well as a pattern with key measurement points indicated so that the reader can easily see the points on the body and where those adjustments would be made on the corresponding pattern.)

King begins with step by step instructions for modifying a pattern based on his initial croquis evaluation to create a muslin, then “reading” that muslin to see what the drag lines and wrinkles tell us. Again, those pictures clearly illustrate the techniques he uses to make the adjustments on the muslins for each of his six subjects. Those adjustments are then transferred to the pattern.

“Once I understood the concept, I found I was reading wrinkles on everyone.” ~ Rosemary Fajgier

The more I observe, the more I understand and see how the adjustments can be applied. I am working on a top that I have made several times with stock adjustments that have never worked. I am looking forward to tweaking the fit using the methods from this book.

~ Reviewed by Rosemary Fajgier