Learn to Sew

May 16, 2025

Giving Your Sewing Machine Some Love

As much as we love sewing, some tasks aren’t quite as much fun as others, but they’re no less important. One of those tasks is cleaning your sewing machine. If you allow dust, lint and thread to build up in the machine, you’re asking for trouble, so make a point to clean it on a regular basis.

How often do I need to clean my machine?

Experts advise cleaning every 10-12 hours of use, or more often if you’re using fuzzy fabrics like fleece, wool, quilt batting, etc.

What You’ll Need

In addition to the machine manual, you’ll need a few helpful tools. Look for the machine’s lint brush (or a small paintbrush), a soft cloth, pipe cleaners, Q-Tip, tweezers, a screwdriver (if needed) and perhaps treat yourself to a mini vacuum attachment. Or, if you prefer, look for disposable sewing machine cleaning brushes.

First and foremost, consult your instruction book for the care specifics of your model. Then, unplug the machine before you begin. Remove the needle and presser foot to allow easy access to the innards of the machine where the accumulations can easily go unnoticed.

Up Top

Once you’ve removed the needle and presser foot, take off the machine’s throat or needle plate. This can be done by pushing a button, lifting a lever or unscrewing it, depending on the machine brand. Doing this exposes the machine feed dogs (those little teeth that move the fabric), thread cutter (if you have one) and other movable parts. And, very likely, some packed-in lint as well.

Gently brush the lint out from under the sewing machine's throat plat

Lint comes from the fabric we sew, the thread we use and from the dust in the environment, including those loyal pets who watch us create at the machine.

Use the brush, tweezers and/or a pipe cleaner to pull out the gobs of lint throughout the entire area. Lift the feed dogs to remove lint packed underneath them. Avoid the temptation to simply blow lint out with your breath or with canned air, as both not only introduce unwanted moisture into the machine, but they can imbed the dust bunnies further into the machine’s mechanism. The use of canned air can also void some machine warranties. Gently lift it out one whisp at a time.

Don’t forget to clean the area above the presser foot, as lint often accumulates there as well and sometimes up into the light area if it’s accessible.

Fold the soft cloth and clean between the tension disks to dislodge any bits that might be hidden as a result of thread breakage while sewing.

Down Below

Remove the bobbin case (if you have one) and open the bobbin area per your instruction manual. Pay close attention to the process, as you’ll be putting it back together in reverse order. Remove lint or any errant thread bits in that entire area, including inside and outside the bobbin case.

If your machine requires oil, now is the time to do it, once lint is removed and the moving parts are visible. Carefully follow the instruction manual for where and how to lubricate and use ONLY sewing machine oil for the task.

Finishing up

When you’re done with the cleaning tasks, reassemble the parts and plug the machine back into the power source. If you oiled it, run it for a while without thread or bobbin to work the oil into the parts. This is a great time to put in a new needle as well.

Use a barely damp cloth to wipe down the outside of the machine to remove any visible stains. You probably didn’t mean to touch the machine after eating chocolate.

Call in the Pro

Regular machine cleaning is essential to successful sewing, but so is a yearly or bi-yearly check-up from your dealer. They can get to the internal workings that you can’t reach, and their work goes beyond cleaning. So, don’t skip it…it’s like your personal health check-up.

~Linda Griepentrog is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and three dogs, Yohnuh, Abby, and Lizzie. Contact her at .

November 17, 2023

The Fringe/Tailor Tacking Foot

Foot Fun

You probably have lots of presser feet for your machine(s), but truth be told, we use only a few of them regularly: straight stitch foot, zigzag or satin stitch foot, and the zipper foot. What about all those others lingering in the accessory box? Let’s take a look at one rather funky one—the fringe (or tailor tack) foot.

This unique foot has a vertical bar in the middle. When you sew a wide zigzag, the elevated loops slide off the back of the foot. Check with your dealer for a machine-specific one or look for a generic version that will fit.

This foot was originally designed for machine tailor tacks—those tiny thread groupings that mark darts and other design details on a garment. But creative types have gone beyond the tailor tacks for some creative uses and hence the alternate name for this foot—fringe foot.

Tailor Tacking

To use this foot for marking, simply sew through both layers of the cut garment pieces and the paper pattern using a wide zigzag and a very short stitch length. Sew four or five times to mark dots. Gently pull the paper up and separate the garment layers, then clip the threads between. The threads clearly mark the details and stay in until they’re sewn, then they’re easily removed.

Bridge Seam

This specialty foot can be used to create a decorative seam. Loosen the upper thread tension and set the machine for a wide zigzag with a short length (test-stitch). Place the garment pieces right sides together and sew along the seam line. Once the seam is sewn, gently pull the layers apart and press the seam allowances open. The thread loops are now flattened and span the seam edges to create a narrow opening. The seam can be left that way, or you can topstitch each side for added stability. This type of seam is primarily decorative and shouldn’t be used in areas of high stress.

Faux Fagoting Decorative Stitch

If you’ve sewn the bridge seam, don’t stop there—add another decorative touch. Switch presser feet to a straight stitch or all-purpose foot and set the machine for a straight stretch stitch. This goes two stitches forward and one stitch backward, creating a prominent straight stitch. Hold both sides of bridged stitch flat and sew down the center, being careful not to catch the fabric edges. As you sew, the backward and forward motion of this stitch groups together the bridge stitches into little “bundles.”

Border Issues

The bridge stitch, whether bundled or plain, makes a perfect center for creating a wider border. Sew a wide decorative stitch on each side of the openwork, using your mirror-imaging function for symmetry. The decorative stitch should barely touch the bridge stitches.

Fun Fringes

This foot can be used to make either eyelash fringe (cut on one side) or looped fringe, either on a fabric base or on the project edge. When sewn on fabric, multiple rows can be sewn side by side to create a loopy texture (think lion’s mane), or the looped stitches can be used to outline an appliqué.

When sewn as an edge finish, the fringe (either cut or looped) can be combined with a decorative stitch.

Set up your machine for the widest zigzag and hand turn the wheel to be sure the needle clears the bar. Use a contrast thread in the bobbin. Set the stitch length to the desired density and test-stitch to be sure the loops easily slide off the back of the bar. Sew the fringe line, then change presser feet and sew along one edge anchoring the stitch loops. From the wrong side, pull out the contrast bobbin thread and use a pin to pull the fringe loops to the right side. The loops can be left as-is, or cut to make eyelash fringe.

To sew a fringed edge, use the same machine set-up, but place a piece of removable stabilizer along the finished project edge. Sew the fringe catching the stabilizer on the right edge. Straight or decoratively stitch the fringe edge in place, remove the bobbin thread, then remove the stabilizer. The fringe can be left looped or cut.

Sewing a fringed edge (left) and decoratively stitch the fringe edge (right).

Heavy Weights

You can use a slightly heavier thread weight, either solid or variegated. But, be sure to test-stitch first to be sure that the stitch density and heavier thread will allow the thread loops to easily slide off the back of the vertical bar—otherwise, you get an unsightly jam-up. Adjust either for smooth stitching.

Most of the images in this article were provided compliments of Bernina.

October 27, 2023

Pin Weaving (preview)

Pin weaving is a form of small-scale weaving traditionally done on a frame made of pins with the warp and weft wrapping around the pins. Pin-woven textiles have a selvage edge all the way around.

The equipment needed for pin weaving is minimal, consisting of straight pins; a padded, pinnable board; a rectangle of fusible interfacing; pearl cotton to make the loom; and a tapestry needle which you will use to weave an assortment of textural yarns and perhaps fabric strips into your finished piece.

The Loom

The size of the weaving determines the board size. You can purchase the padded board in a retail shop, or you can make your own.

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August 11, 2023

Basting Methods for Plaids

When selecting a basting method for plaids, consider the complexity of the plaid, the texture of the fabric, and the garment design, as well as your sewing skills. Here are a few basting methods that can help you achieve precise plaid matching:

First Step

For best results, baste with the right sides up. It’s also helpful to stay stitch the edges of your fabric pieces. This helps maintain the shape of your pieces while you work on matching the plaids.

Glue Sticks and Tapes

Glue sticks and water-soluble double-stick tape are easy basting techniques that could work well on some fabrics where, for example, needle punctures would not be appropriate. Position the glue or tape just inside the seam line on the right side of the unpressed section. Align the plaid bars and press the layers together. Let the glue dry before stitching.

Another easy basting method is to use drafting tape. Match the color bars and tape the sections together. Then, right sides together, stitch from the wrong side on the seam line. (Figure 1).

Tip: Before using drafting tape, test to be sure the tape won’t mar the fabric or pull off the nap.

Hand Basting

For difficult seams, hand-baste. With right sides up, align and pin the sections together. Then use a short slip stitch or fell stitch to baste. Use a contrasting thread color that’s easily visible against the plaid pattern.

The fell stitch tends to hold the fabric a little more securely; however, on the wrong side, the stitches are slanted and if you aren’t using a water-soluble thread in the bobbin, they are more difficult to remove.
If using the slip stitch, consider adding a safety by turning the garment over and putting in a second row of basting from the wrong side so that there are no spaces in between the stitches.

Machine Basting

Machine basting works well on fabric that won’t be damaged by extra needle holes. With right sides up, align the color bars and pin the sections together. Set the machine for a blind hemming stitch (Width: 2″, Length: 2.5″) and a loose tension, then stitch next to the fold line. Only the zig-zag stitch will catch the fold line (Figure 2). Consider using water-soluble basting thread in the bobbin, but remember that this thread could dissolve in hot, moist hands or when wound on to a bobbin at high speed. In this method, it could help to use a contrasting thread color that’s easily visible against the plaid pattern.

Pin Basting

Pin the plaid pattern pieces together along the plaid lines, making sure the lines match up perfectly. Place the pins parallel to the plaid lines and about an inch apart, then place the pins in both vertically and horizontally to keep the pattern pieces aligned.

Clipping and Notching

When you have intersecting seams, clipping into the seam allowances or notching them can help align the plaid lines more accurately. Make small diagonal snips (clips) or triangular notches along the seam allowances, being careful not to cut into the stitching line.

~Partial contribution from an ASG article by Claire Shaeffer

April 21, 2023

Sewing Tools: What’s This?

We all know that sewing enthusiasts need certain tools to function—a sewing machine, scissors, thread, pins, etc.—but there are some other tools of the trade that might just be nice to have. Are they a necessity? No. Are they a convenience? Absolutely. Let’s take a look at some of those handy-to-have specialty items.

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Needleboard

If you work with velvet, velveteen, corduroy or plushes, you know how difficult it is to press without crushing the pile or imprinting the holes of the steam iron onto the fabric. The surface of a needleboard, as its name suggests, is covered with short metal pins that fit between the pile strands of a plush fabric for pressing. It keeps the fabric backing elevated without crushing the surface pile. To use, simply place the fabric face down onto the protrusions, then lightly press.

With a somewhat hefty price tag, a needleboard is a luxury, but if you work with these pile fabrics frequently, it’s something you may truly deem a necessity as the pressing results speak volumes.

Seam Roller

We’ve all been taught to press seams as we sew, so whether you’re pressing open a quilt block seam or setting a facing seam, this handy seam roller lets you do that at your sewing machine without a trip to the ironing board. Just hold the seam in the direction you need it, then roll over it using a moderate amount of pressure, depending on the fabric. It’s handy to reach small areas where it’s difficult to get an iron, and it keeps your fingers out of the way. In addition, the seam roller can be used to make creases at fold lines and edges. If you’re a scrapbooker or card maker, it works well on paper too.

Sticky Tape

There are times when having a measuring tape with a sticky backing comes in handy and there are multiple types available. Look for ½”, 1” and 1 ½” widths, and differing calibrations. Sticky masking tape comes with incremental markings of 1/16” up to 1/8”, and some brands come with metric markings as well. The tape can adhere not only to your cutting table or sewing machine base plate, but to your garment or other sewing project to help mark seam allowances, pleat spacing, buttonhole lengths, quilting or topstitching lines, etc. It won’t damage the surface on most fabrics and leaves no residue.

Buttonhole Knife

There’s nothing scarier than having your garment all finished and it’s time to cut open the buttonholes. One slip and you’re facing some creative solutions to repair and disguise potential errors. A buttonhole knife helps with that trepidation. Coming with a tiny cutting mat or a wooden cutting block to protect your table surface, the cutter has a sharp knife edge to slice open buttonholes without severing the stitches. It can be used straight on or at an angle, depending on the size of the buttonhole. For keyhole buttonholes, some cutters also come with a separate punch to open the circular end. Just press down on the tool for a smooth cut. If the buttonhole is longer than the blade width, move it along the length after the initial cut.

Bernina Buttonhole Knife in use — Image courtesy of Bernina

Stiletto

Stilletto — Stiletto available on Amazon

If you have ever wished for a third hand, the stiletto is your answer. This sharp little tool is handy for guiding fabric under the presser foot and aligning edges as you sew. It fits very close to the presser foot—closer than your fingers. If you’re crossing over seams, it can hold them open as you pass, or push them in a single direction if preferred. When sewing bulky fabric like wool suiting and coating, the stiletto can help push them flatter as you approach the presser foot. Tedious needle-turn appliqué is easier with a stiletto, as you can easily fold under the fabric’s raw edge with the point. Sharp-pointed stilettos can also be used to punch holes for eyelets or grommets. Most stilettos are metal, but others are plastic or bamboo and some brands of stilettos have a blunter point than others, but function in a similar way (except for punching holes). Don’t have one? Use the longer point of your seam ripper for the same functions, or hunt up a super-sharp porcupine quill!