Sewing Tip – Page 2

September 22, 2023

Tote Tactics

Totes are one of the easiest projects sewers can make and are often a first project for beginners. They can be lined, unlined, open-top, zipper-top or even closed with a magnetic fastener, and some offer inside and/or outside pockets as an extra convenience. Tote bags generally have flat bottoms and corner shaping, though they can also simply be flat. These handy carryalls have gained popularity in recent years as many shoppers sport their own bags to the store to carry home their purchases.

The simple design of a tote makes it ideal for many fabrics from canvas to ripstop, quilting weights and home décor styles, even leather. Unlined totes made in lightweights like ripstop are ideal for grocery hauling, as they fold totally flat, but are still strong for carrying cans, produce and other vittles.

There are many patterns available for tote bags, or you can easily make your own simple version with two rectangles and some straps. But, no matter the style, there are some handy tips for tote making.

Inside Scoop

Unless your tote is unlined, it’s a good idea to reinforce the bag sides with interfacing or sewable foam for added stability and shape retention. Judge the type of stabilization needed by the fabric weight—lighter weight fabrics require a sturdier interfacing.

Fusible interfacings, fleeces and foams are ideal backing for tote sides. Cut the pieces the same size and shape as the outer bag pieces. Some sewers like to trim the seam allowances from the backing pieces prior to fusing to reduce bulk. Be sure to follow the manufacturer’s instructions for proper fusing and always allow the pieces to cool before moving them.

Bottom Basics

Flat tote bottoms can be further stabilized by adding an insert of the same size after constructing the bag. Materials available for inserts are acrylic shapes, very stiff interfacing or a rectangle of heavy plastic canvas and often come in various sizes, colors, and styles, or as cut-your-own. If the tote is unlined, simply cover the bottom insert with matching fabric. For lined totes, the stabilizer goes between the outer and lining layers. To keep the bottom insert from shifting, it’s a good idea to loosely tack it in place at the side seams.

Bottom of bags — Tote bag base shapers are available on Amazon.

Solid Footing

Adding bag feet to a tote bottom is a great way to help keep the tote cleaner, as it allows the fabric itself to stay off the ground. Bag feet come in a variety of shapes, colors and sizes, and they are applied prior to any lining, but after interfacing. Feet can be applied like a magnetic fastener with two prongs inserted into a small hole in the desired corner location on the finished bottom. A piece of foam or stiff interfacing is placed over the prongs for reinforcement, then the metal prongs are folded outward and flattened. To further protect the bag lining, a piece of fleece or interfacing can be placed over the prongs as a cushion. Feet are also available in screw-back versions and can be padded and reinforced as needed.

Bag feet available on Amazone — Bag feet available on Amazon.

Getting a Handle on it

There are a wide variety of options for tote handles. They can be short or over-the-shoulder length, and made from self-fabric, webbing, rope or leather (real or faux). The handles can simply be sewn to the tote top hem, or they can straddle the entire length of the tote and included in the bottom seam. Or, they can be applied to the outside tote surfaces, depending on the desired look.

If the tote is unlined, it’s a good idea to have a double hem at the top for stability when attaching handles to the opening.

Tote handles made of fabric need some kind of reinforcement to make them sturdy—so insert interfacing or fleece inside and topstitch both edges to flatten.

If you’re attaching finished straps to the tote outside, turn under any unfinished ends, then sew a square at each strap end, reinforced with an x for added strength.

Any handles applied to the outside of the tote should be attached prior to lining it so that the stitching or attachment backings are hidden. If you plan to carry heavy items in the tote, add a piece of stiff interfacing behind any outside handle attachments for reinforcement.

Leather handles can be attached several ways depending on the style. Some come with pre-punched holes for easy hand stitching; others require the use of screws or rivets to attach. One handy notion is called a Chicago screw—it’s a post and cap that fits into pre-made handle holes and, as the name implies, simply screws together to secure.

Flat leather handles attached with Chicago screws.

If you’re hand-sewing leather handles in place, use heavy thread and a backstitch for a sturdy application. Some lightweight leather handles can be machine stitched in place as well.

Leather strap on a tote — Rolled leather handles attached with hand-stitching.

Share your tote projects with us! Visit our Facebook page for today’s post and show us your own tote bag projects.

~Linda Griepentrog is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and three dogs, Yohnuh, Abby, and Lizzie. Contact her at gwizdesigns@aol.com.

September 1, 2023

Front Fly Zipper in Slacks or Jeans

The traditional fly zipper you see on a commercially made pair of jeans or slacks works well in a manufacturing environment because special machines can make them very quickly, even though it is not necessarily the best technique or finished product. A mock fly is a great option for home sewers and is a good compromise that gives the same look but is much more practical. This method is a very deep-set version of a lapped zipper that requires little extra preparation to be successful.

Getting Started

1. Make the following marks on the fabric section. (See Figure 1)

Make a dot at the Bottom of the zipper. (#1 on diagram)
Make a dot at the Beginning of Stitching. (#2 on diagram)
Make a clip at the top of the Center Front line. (#3 on diagram)

2. Stitch from the bottom opening dot (#2 on diagram) down 2 1/2″ towards the inseam using very small stitches. Do not sew the entire seam!

Underflap

3. Decide which will be the underflap of the zipper.

4. Fold the underflap wrong sides together from the seam allowance to 5/8″ from the clip at the top of the Center Front line. This should make the underflap fold evenly.

5. Apply glue stick to underside of the folded flap and attach to zipper as close to the teeth as possible.

6. Sew fabric to zipper as close to the teeth as possible.

Overflap

7. Fold other flap under from center clip to bottom of opening. (Figure 3)

8. Match clips and pin folded edges flat to front.

9. Use a glue stick to apply glue stick to the loose top of the zipper and apply the top to the overflap, making the top parallel to the zipper.

10. Lay garment flat, feel for edge of zipper. Using the zipper package as a straight edge, mark stitching line, stopping 3″ from the end with removable pen, pencil, or chalk (Figure 4).

11. Using the bottom curve of the zipper package as a template, finish drawing the stitching line, ending at the bottom of the opening.

12. Beginning at the top, sew over the drawn line for 2″ and stop.

Fabric Manipulation for Zippers

Practice manipulating the fabric while sewing to prevent wrinkles on the overlap section as shown in Figure 5.

As the foot slides on the fabric, it presses on one side of the needle only. This exerts an uneven push and shoves fabric on the foot side faster than the other, thus creating the diagonal wrinkles that often happen along the overlap piece.

Preventing this problem requires handling. Note that this hold will seem awkward at first, but with a little practice you will love the results.

After the zipper is in place, begin sewing from the top down and continue about 2″. Stop sewing and with your hands flat on the surface of the fabric, push the side that the foot rests on toward the back about 1″.
Wrinkles will form on the surface, but will equalize with the force of the foot.
Sew forward about 3″ allowing your hands to move evenly with the fabric.
Stop, readjust your hands in the same way for the next section, and repeat this process until you reach the end of the zipper.
Turn at an angle and sew to the seam.
Reduce the stitch length to 0 and make 3 or 4 stitches.
After removing from the machine, pull both threads to the back, then pull apart to cinch knot.

~Gale Grigg Hazen, edited from an article that appeared in a previous issue of Notions

August 11, 2023

Basting Methods for Plaids

When selecting a basting method for plaids, consider the complexity of the plaid, the texture of the fabric, and the garment design, as well as your sewing skills. Here are a few basting methods that can help you achieve precise plaid matching:

First Step

For best results, baste with the right sides up. It’s also helpful to stay stitch the edges of your fabric pieces. This helps maintain the shape of your pieces while you work on matching the plaids.

Glue Sticks and Tapes

Glue sticks and water-soluble double-stick tape are easy basting techniques that could work well on some fabrics where, for example, needle punctures would not be appropriate. Position the glue or tape just inside the seam line on the right side of the unpressed section. Align the plaid bars and press the layers together. Let the glue dry before stitching.

Another easy basting method is to use drafting tape. Match the color bars and tape the sections together. Then, right sides together, stitch from the wrong side on the seam line. (Figure 1).

Tip: Before using drafting tape, test to be sure the tape won’t mar the fabric or pull off the nap.

Hand Basting

For difficult seams, hand-baste. With right sides up, align and pin the sections together. Then use a short slip stitch or fell stitch to baste. Use a contrasting thread color that’s easily visible against the plaid pattern.

The fell stitch tends to hold the fabric a little more securely; however, on the wrong side, the stitches are slanted and if you aren’t using a water-soluble thread in the bobbin, they are more difficult to remove.
If using the slip stitch, consider adding a safety by turning the garment over and putting in a second row of basting from the wrong side so that there are no spaces in between the stitches.

Machine Basting

Machine basting works well on fabric that won’t be damaged by extra needle holes. With right sides up, align the color bars and pin the sections together. Set the machine for a blind hemming stitch (Width: 2″, Length: 2.5″) and a loose tension, then stitch next to the fold line. Only the zig-zag stitch will catch the fold line (Figure 2). Consider using water-soluble basting thread in the bobbin, but remember that this thread could dissolve in hot, moist hands or when wound on to a bobbin at high speed. In this method, it could help to use a contrasting thread color that’s easily visible against the plaid pattern.

Pin Basting

Pin the plaid pattern pieces together along the plaid lines, making sure the lines match up perfectly. Place the pins parallel to the plaid lines and about an inch apart, then place the pins in both vertically and horizontally to keep the pattern pieces aligned.

Clipping and Notching

When you have intersecting seams, clipping into the seam allowances or notching them can help align the plaid lines more accurately. Make small diagonal snips (clips) or triangular notches along the seam allowances, being careful not to cut into the stitching line.

~Partial contribution from an ASG article by Claire Shaeffer

July 7, 2023

Sewing Q&A: Cutting Mats, Chain Sewing, & Elastic Thread

Rotary Cutting Mat

Q: What’s the easiest way to clean my rotary cutting mat?

A: Cutting mats harbor lint as you cut various fabrics and some fabrics are worse than others for their shedding capabilities. If you’re cutting something linty, like fleece or fur, be sure to use a soft brush and clean the mat immediately after use. An art eraser, soft dish scrubber or an adhesive lint remover can also be used to get fibers out of the cutting line grooves. But don’t stop there…

To give your mat a thorough “spa” cleaning, fill your bathtub with enough room temperature water to cover the bottom of the tub, and add ¼ cup of white vinegar. Let the mat soak for 15-20 minutes, then add a bit of dish soap to the mix. Use a small, soft brush to scrub the mat and lather it up. Rinse the mat in cool water and dry with a towel or lay it flat to air dry.

Tempting as it might be, don’t use hot water for this cleanse, and don’t let your mat dry in direct sun, as both will cause the mat to warp. Once a cutting mat is warped, it cannot be made flat again.

Taking good care of your cutting mat will prolong its life and that of your rotary cutter blade as well.

Chain Sewing

Q: I’ve heard the term chain sewing a lot from my quilting friends—what does it mean and can I do it with garment sewing too?

A: Chain sewing means that once you’ve sewn a seam, you simply feed in the next thing to be sewn, without clipping the threads between pieces. For example, if you’re sewing together multiple quilt blocks, sew all the like pieces together continuously. Chain stitching is a real timesaver, and it also saves thread, as you’re not stopping after each piece to clip threads and pulling out new thread ends before you start the next piece.

When you’re done sewing together a quantity of pieces, clip them apart.

Chain stitching can absolutely be done with garment sewing or other projects as well. In fact, it’s kind of a game to see how far you can go without stopping to clip threads. When sewing a garment, fuse any interfacings to all pieces prior to sewing, then, depending on the style, you may be able to continuously sew the armhole facing shoulder and/or underarm seams, followed by the garment shoulder seams and side and/or center seams, neckline facing seams and skirt side seams, all before stopping. If your garment has sleeves, feed in the underarm seams as well.

Rule of thumb for chain sewing is never cross another seam without pressing it first.

Chain sewing is really quite satisfying to see a mound of pieces quickly piling up behind your presser foot. If you’re making multiples of the same item (cheerleader outfits, band uniforms, etc.), factory style chain sewing is much quicker than sewing each project from start to finish before starting the next.

Elastic Thread

Q: I used elastic thread in my bobbin to shirr a top, but it didn’t pull up as much as I thought it would and my top is too big. Did I do something wrong, and is there any way to fix it?

A: Elastic thread differs from brand to brand with its elasticity and recovery, so it’s really important to do test stitching on the actual project fabric before beginning your garment. Top tension may need to be adjusted, and/or the stitch length to get the shirring effect you want.

Since your stitching is already done, there are a couple of possible solutions: First, steam the shirred area from the wrong and/or right side. Most elastic threads will shrink a goodly amount from the steam. Don’t actually press on the elastic or the fabric, just hover the iron and steam. If that doesn’t draw it up sufficiently, find the end of each stitching line and pull up the elastic. When it’s the right size, knot the thread end or stitch over it several times within the seamline. Repeat for each row separately. If you didn’t stop stitching at the end of the rows, but instead turned to stitch the next row, use a large pin to pull up the elastic thread as if it were separate rows for the same effect.

December 16, 2022

Handy Notions: Seam Guides

Whether you’re just learning to sew, teaching a novice sewer, or just need a little extra security to make even seamlines, there’s a seam guide to help you with the process.

In addition to sewing seams, guides are also helpful for evenly applying trims equidistance from an edge, hemming, decorative stitching, or topstitching. While the machine presser foot edge is a good guide for small distances, a movable seam guide can go anywhere on the machine base for wider spacing, either left or right of the foot.

Look at the machine throat plate as most have markings for various distances from the needle, often up to 1”, sometimes on both sides of the foot, and sometimes in metric designations. But, if those markings aren’t enough to keep you on the straight and narrow, consider some other options.

Magnetic Appeal

One of the most common seam guides is a raised edge shape that magnetically adheres to the machine base. Because it’s easily removable, you can use it only when needed for a particular task. A single guide can be used on multiple machines if you have one specific to classes or travel.

Magnetic Seam Guide available on Amazon.

Magnetic seam guides come in a variety of shapes and sizes—some designed for curved edges, others for corners and some for straight seaming.

Adhesive-backed Guides

Instead of a magnetic backing, some seam guides adhere to the machine with a repositionable adhesive. They do not damage the machine’s surface, but can be moved as needed. Some offer curved edges for guiding both inner and outer curves with confidence.

Clover Needlecrafts Stick n Stitch Tool available from Amazon.

Screw-in Guide

Depending on your machine brand and model, there may be a screw hole in the top of the machine base that can support a screw-in seam guide. These guides are adjustable and slide on the screw to set the correct distance from the needle, but that distance is limited.

Universal screw-in seam guide available on Amazon.

Quilting Guide

An add-on quilting guide may be an optional or standard accessory for your machine, depending on brand and model. Though designed for spacing quilting lines, it’s also usable for seaming and topstitching a set distance from the fabric edge. The guide has an adjustable “arm” that extends from the presser foot shank and slides to create a guide for evenly spaced stitching. It’s secured at a specific setting with a small screw to keep it from slipping from the chosen distance. If you’re looking for wide spacing, be sure to check the length of the extension arm.

Presser Feet

Some machines work with a presser foot that has a built-in adjustable seam guide. Because of its attachment to the foot, the guide edge is limited in distance from the needle position. Check with your machine dealer to see if this foot will fit your machine.

Presser foot with a seam guide available on Amazon.

Gridded Base

If a small add-on guide doesn’t pack enough “oomph” for you, consider a lined addition to your machine’s surface so you can have measurements extending on one or both sides of the presser foot for foolproof following.

Repositionable seam guide available on Amazon.

When positioning a seam guide, remember to measure the distance needed from the needle position, not the presser foot edge.

DIY Seam Guides

Instead of purchasing a separate accessory, many people have opted for DIY seam guides of all sorts. The most common is to adhere a non-marring and removable tape, such as painter’s tape, to the machine base at the desired distance from the needle. It’s easily repositionable for various tasks and you can write notes on it; plus, it had two parallel edges, so either one can be used depending on the stitching width needed.

Another simple option is to stretch a rubber band tautly around the free arm of the sewing machine at the desired distance from the needle. A piece of narrow elastic tied around the arm works in the same manner.

If you have a pad of sticky notes in your office, move them to your sewing room and adhere the entire pad to the machine base to make a raised-edge seam guide. The glued-together side should face the needle.