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March 17, 2023

Boning and Waist Stays (preview)

Boning and waist stays work because the female body widens both above and below the waistline. Most gowns have a tightly fitted bodice — with or without sleeves, on or off the shoulder — and a full, heavy skirt. We’ve all seen an unfortunate bride wearing a sagging gown. The bodice may be sagging on its own, but the problem can be further compounded by the heavy skirt pulling the whole gown downwards. Boning and a waist stay, which work together, are your best allies in counteracting the force of gravity at work in such a situation.

Wedding gown with boning

Although the muslin is primarily a tool for fitting the gown, it also plays a role in the gown’s engineering. Properly engineered boning and a well-placed waist stay work together to give a gown the structural support it needs.

The full article is in the Members area of the website. CLICK HERE to read the full article. Not a member? Join online!

 

March 10, 2023

Sewing Q&A: Eyesight, Visibility, and Scissor Care

Q: As I get older, my eyesight is declining and I’m having more and more trouble threading my machine’s needle. Any ideas?

A: Most newer machines have built-in needle threaders, but if your machine doesn’t, there are other options. Try using a fine needle threader, like those used by hand sewers. Note the direction your machine threads, as it may be necessary to remove the presser foot for better access to the needle’s eye.

Klaer International Threader
Klaer International Threader

Anytime you thread a needle, have a contrasting color behind the needle eye can be helpful. For a dark thread, use a white or light-colored paper; for a light thread, use a dark background.

Schmetz Quick Threading Needle
Schmetz Quick Threading Needle. Photo courtesy of Euronotions.

Another option is trying a Quick Threading Needle by Schmetz. This specialty needle has a slotted eye, so that you can draw the thread over the slotted area on the needle’s right side and it will slide right into the eye. The needle is compatible with many fabrics and comes in two sizes, 80/12 and 90/14, depending on your fabric weight. There are two cautions when using this special needle—the slot can snag delicate fabrics, and it shouldn’t be used for quilting as the slot edges can pull batting fibers to the quilt surface. As with all sewing, the needle size should be appropriate to the thread size—too fine of a thread can slip out of the slot, and too heavy of a thread may fray or break.


Q: I take very early morning walks with my dog, but would like to improve my visibility while walking along well-traveled roads. What can I do?

Available on Amazon.

A: To become better noticed in trafficked areas, retroreflective trims are perhaps the best option. These trims glow when exposed to light, like car headlights and streetlights by actually reflecting the source light. The sew-on trims are available as bands, ribbons and a variety of shapes that you can appliqué onto your outerwear. Some trims are available with adhesive backing for easier attachment to an already finished garment.

If you’re making the outerwear, put the trim on during construction, but if your jacket is already made, you can still add it either by hand or machine. Critical areas include the chest and shoulder areas, front and back, as these offer the biggest expanse for reflection. Trim down the side of pant legs is another easy to create option.

Don’t forget your pup when adding this safety feature—add reflection to collars, leashes and jackets/sweaters.


Q: I just treated myself to some new sewing scissors. They were kind of expensive, so I want to be sure I take care of them so they last a long time. How’s the best way to do that?

A: If your scissors came with a case, keep them stowed when not in use. If you don’t have a case, you can easily make one that covers just the blades or the entire scissor.

Keep the scissors in a clean, dry place. If you live in a humid climate, store with a small pack of silica gel to help prevent rust.

Use your good scissors to cut fabric only—not paper or other crafty materials. If you have other family members who might be tempted to misuse them, add a label to the scissor handle indicating their single use, or hide them when you’re not using them.

Never cut over pins—that mistake is a quick way to ruin their cutting finesse. Pins should always be placed inside (or outside) the cutting line.

Try not to ever drop your scissors. Not only can the cutting blades be damaged, but they can also be forced out of alignment. For extra safety, put them on a lanyard or neck ribbon.

Maintain your scissors regularly. Wipe the blades to remove lint, and if the manufacturer recommends it, add a small drop of light oil (like you use on your sewing machine) to the pivot point. Work it into the joint by opening and closing the blades several times and then wiping off any excess.

Not all types of scissors can be sharpened, so use them only for their intended use to extend their lifespan. If they no longer cut fabric well, and they’re not able to be sharpened, relegate them to craft use.


~Linda Griepentrog is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and three dogs, Yohnuh, Abby, and Lizzie. Contact her at .

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Tagged With: needle threader, scissor, Sewing Q & A

March 3, 2023

Special Help for Hems (preview)

Both fitting and sewing hems properly and professionally are the best ways to make clothes feel and look good. This applies whether you have made them from scratch or if you have purchased ready-to-wear. There is more to hemming than meets the eye though and as sewing enthusiasts, we have the advantage and skills to fine-tune our garments and look a cut above someone who doesn’t sew and isn’t able to make those adjustments.

Industry Standards

There are industry standards for determining hem length and I learned these standards while doing a two-year apprenticeship with a tailor from England. This article will detail those standards and explain the reasoning behind them so that you can better decide if you’d like to use them or not. After all, the first rule in fitting is always to defer to personal preference!

CLICK HERE to read the full article. Not a member? Join online!

 

February 17, 2023

Are You Odd and Compulsive?

Flashback! Donna Salyers from Fabulous Furs shared these delightful observations about sewing enthusiasts during the 1995 Second Annual ASG Fashion Show where she remarked that the creativity in the room was positively electrifying. In addition, she commented that the evening was not only magical, she also believed it was the start of a grand and wonderful tradition. And how right she was!

Donna compiled a checklist of the top ten indicators that identify the odd and compulsive sewing enthusiast. We can certainly identify with some of these items. Can you?

  1. You’re compulsive if you are wearing something you sewed the night before you left for a trip.
  2. If you didn’t finish it and you’re wearing it anyway, knowing full well you’ll never finish it because you have so many other projects waiting, you’re compulsive.
  3. If you return from the fabric store with two new patterns, only to discover they’re the same patterns you purchased six months ago, you’re both weird and compulsive
  4. If you keep snacks in your sewing room so your don’t waste time going to the kitchen, you’re compulsive.
  5. If you’ve almost swallowed straight pins, confusing them with pretzel sticks, chances are you’re weird and compulsive.
  6. If your husband comments about a new fabric purchase mistakenly left on the kitchen counter and you answer, “Oh, I’ve had that for a long time,” but mutter under your breath, “An hour is a long time,” you’re a classic case.
  7. If you buy faux fur under the pretext of making your little girl a fur teddy bear and then make a full length sable coat for yourself from the scraps, it’s time to face the truth.
  8. If your cat has logged so many hours watching you sew that she can do buttonholes without supervision, you’re definitely compulsive.
  9. If you’re training your cat to clean up loose threads from your sewing room and the vet is puzzled by the thread hair balls, you may be weird and compulsive
  10. You’re probably compulsive if you’ve suffered the indignity of being discovered on your hands and knees copying a pattern on the floor of a clothing store dressing room.

As weird and compulsive as we all are, sewing is actually quite sane and healthy. By getting lost in creativity, we escape whatever stressful challenges life might bring and find a wonderful serenity and sense of productiveness in creating something beautiful. So let us all go forth and be weird and compulsive!


~Donna Salyers is President of Fabulous-Furs

February 3, 2023

Buttonhole Window on a Reversible Garment (preview)

The buttonhole window is strong and attractive on both sides of a garment, which makes it ideal for a reversible vest or jacket. If your garment is trimmed with faux leather, suede, or wool jersey, the same fabric should also be used for the patch because it won’t ravel.

Buttonholes in a reversible or unlined garment are difficult because a standard machine buttonhole through a single fabric thickness will stretch or pull away from the cloth. A bound buttonhole is attractive, but only on one side. However, a buttonhole window is attractive on the front, as well as the back.

The complete version of this article is available on the ASG Members Only blog and requires member login.
CLICK HERE to read the full article. Not a member? Join online!

 

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