American Sewing Guild (ASG)

Visit our blog Visit the ASG Facebook page Visit ASG on Pinterest Visit ASG's YouTube channel Visit ASG on Instagram
  • Home
  • Join ASG
    • Join Online
    • Chapter Locations
    • Member Benefits
    • Member Brochure
    • Join by Mail
  • Conference & Education
  • Resources
    • Contests & Awards
    • Giving Back
    • Hall of Fame
    • Links
    • Travel and Tours
    • Measurement Chart
  • Shop
    • ASG Store
    • Chapter Products
    • Video Resources
  • Blog
  • About
    • About Us
    • Donate to ASG
    • ASG Sensitivity Statement
    • FAQ’s
    • Start a Chapter
  • Contact
  • Member Login
    • Login First!
    • Members Only
    • Leadership Only
    • Website FAQ’s
    • Logout
  •  

September 2, 2022

3 Steps to Perfecting the Princess Line Seam (preview)

Why Princess-Line?

Example of princess-line seams with pipingPrincess-line seams often result in a smoother line that allows for a body-skimming fit. They can also be more flattering than typical darts, especially if you have a large bust or shoulders as they not only help to flatter curves, but allow for more opportunities for fitting. They can also be used to create a unique style to the garment by using contrasting fabric or color blocking, or even to add a piped contrasting trim.

Do you love the look of a princess-line seam but hate the task of fitting it? The solution is a method called “dart conversion.” The name may sound intimidating, but it’s really quite easy once you start out with a sloper with well-placed darts.

The complete version of this article is available on the ASG Members Only blog and requires member login.
CLICK HERE to read the full article. Not a member? Join online!

August 26, 2022

Suit-ability: Repurposing Suits for Other Projects

Not all fabric we use in our projects comes from the fabric store—some comes from our own closets or from the closets of others near and dear.

Have you noticed in the past few years that there are fewer and fewer men wearing suits? Blame it on the popular work-from-home phenomena or simply the trend toward more casual dressing. But, that trend can create a gold mine, as suit jackets are relegated to the back of the closet, or shipped off to the local thrift store for retrieval by savvy sewers.

men's suits

Why, you might say? Suit jackets offer a lot of quality fabric that can be repurposed for other projects. In particular, some ready-made construction details that you may think are beyond your skill level to create, like welt pockets and keyhole buttonholes are already done. So why not “harvest” those niceties for another project or two, or three, or four, depending on the size of the jacket.

What to look for

If you’re shopping thrift stores for men’s suit jackets, look for the largest size to garner more fabric. Choose a worsted weight, as it’s not as bulky as the woolen cousins. Be sure to inspect the item for any stains, moth holes or other damage and look for name brand labels and quality fabrics. In many cases, the suit coat may be almost new and worn only on one or two occasions before discard.

Thrift stores often have sales, so shop smartly. If you qualify, check for senior discount day with savings up to 50%. Or for similar discounts, check the tag color of the day. If you’re shopping for suit coats at rummage sales, ask if there’s a half-off-the-tag-price day or a sale where everything you can fit into a bag is only $1. These usually happen on the last day of the sale and it’s a great time to go crazy for suits and sport jackets.

Deconstruction

Watching the news or listening to podcasts is a great time to disassemble a suit jacket. First, decide which parts you might like to keep for other projects—patch pockets, welt pockets, front buttons/buttonholes, lapels, sleeve plackets, labels, etc.–and take apart the seams leaving those areas intact. Lining can be separated or left with its original construction detail, depending on how the area will be reused. While you’re taking apart the suit, note the inner construction details—the process can be a major tailoring learning experience, especially on high-end jackets. If you’re into tailoring, you may even be able to harvest some of the jacket’s structural materials like sleeve heads, hair canvas chest pieces, shoulder pads, etc. for reuse.

Don’t forget that the inside of the suit jacket can offer some fun details, like bold labels, lining welt pockets and tabs, and accent stitching, so put those to work on the outside of your project.

Small projects, like bags, allow for utilizing many details from one jacket and it’s fun to figure out how to make them work to maximize the fun. Check out our featured bags using several different suit details.

Herringbone Lapel
Herringbone Patch Pocket
Jacket Closure
Lapel
Lining
Pieced Wools
Welt Pocket
Welt Pocket with Flap

Tie Tactics

Not far from suit jackets, you may also find some wonderful ties being discarded. Whether they’re silk, polyester or wool, there’s yardage to be garnered. If you’re thrifting or repurposing ties from a loved one, creative options abound.

One idea—this pieced tote made is not only a great project to reuse old or discarded ties, but also can be a wonderful way to remember a special person whose ties you may have inherited. Get the instructions and free pattern from Yarspirations.

Make a tote with ties
Image compliments of Coats & Clark

~Linda Griepentrog Linda is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and two dogs, Yohnuh and Abby. Contact her at .
Did you enjoy this article?
Are you an ASG member?
This field is for validation purposes and should be left unchanged.

Tagged With: fabric, recycle, remake, reuse, sewing, textiles, thrift store sewing

August 12, 2022

Triple Straight Stitch

Often overlooked because the machine icon doesn’t really look like the actual stitch, the triple straight stitch is a fun one, both for utility use and for embellishments. Depending on the machine brand, the stitch may also be called a straight stretch stitch or a backstitch.

On the stitch screen or dial, it appears as three rows of straight stitching side by side. But in fact, that’s not how it sews out. Instead, it’s really three stitches on top of each other with the needle penetrating the same hole at each end of the stitch. Whether your machine sews it as two stitches forward and one back, or one stitch forward, one stitch back and another stitch forward depends on the brand, but the look is the same—a bold straight stitch.

Triple straight stitch on the machine

What’s it for?

Because the machine is sewing back and forth to create this stitch, there is some inherent stretch built into it. It’s great for sewing seams or hems in knit fabrics to maintain flexibility without popping stitches, as often happens with just a regular straight stitch. And ideal as well for use on leggings or swimwear where stretch is needed for fit.

It’s also perfect for use where there is extra reinforcement needed, like on tote bag handles, pant crotches, armhole seams, etc. Outdoor gear is another perfect place to utilize this stitch. It’s essentially three times as strong as an ordinary straight stitch.

Because the stitches are sewn on top of each other, it still allows you to press a seam allowance open and flat.

With the backward and forward motion of the machine as it sews out this stitch, it’s a good idea to slow your sewing speed, using either the speed regulator or a lighter touch on the foot pedal.

Beyond the Basics

Even though its intended purpose is for utility use, this stitch can take on a totally new persona when used decoratively.

Like most machine stitches, you can vary the look by changing the stitch length. While the default length might be ideal for sturdy seam sewing, lengthening it makes it ideal for other uses.

The triple straight stitch is ideal for topstitching. You can sew a well-defined and prominent line of stitches to accent a seam, garment edge or outline an appliqué. Because you’re getting three stitches on top of each other, the stitching line appears heavy without having to invest in a heavy weight or novelty thread and a specialty needle. You can simply sew with the same thread you used to construct the garment, or a contrast.

You can even sew this stitch with metallic thread. Or, use a shiny rayon or polyester embroidery thread for a bit of extra sheen. Opt for a variegated thread for an even more interesting look.

When used on denim, the triple straight stitch can mimic the topstitching found on ready-to-wear jeans.

Topstitching on jeans

In addition to topstitching, the stitch can be used to create designs on its own—from free-flowing curves to a precise grid, as shown in the photos below.

When used with white thread on a dark background, this stitch can look similar to Sashiko stitching. It’s also ideal for quilting, whether following the design in a printed fabric for accent or sewing in channels or grids. It can also be used as an outline for pieced motifs, as shown in the next image.

One note of caution: Because the fabric moves forward and backward as it forms this stitch, stick to gentle curves as opposed to tight curves which are harder to control.

And, there’s more…

You can sew the triple straight stitch with a double needle to create perfectly aligned stitch lines, or with a wing needle to leave tiny holes often used by heirloom sewers as accents and for attaching other trims. In both instances, it’s a good idea to sew slower than normal for consistent stitching.

If you add width to this stitch, you get an entirely different stitch—a triple zigzag—which is great for embellishing as well, as the three threads make the stitch much more prominent than a simple zigzag.

Think you might need a little play time with this great stitch?


~Linda Griepentrog
Linda is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and two dogs, Yohnuh and Abby. Contact her at .

Did you enjoy this article?
Are you an ASG member?
This field is for validation purposes and should be left unchanged.

Tagged With: learn to sew, sewing machine, stitches, triple stitch

August 10, 2022

What I’m Sewing: Sinclair Patterns Bondi 22

ASG Member, Kim Caywood, shares her experience making the Bondi 22 Knit Classic Fitted T-shirt from Sinclair Patterns:

Sinclair Patterns Bondi 22 Knit Classic Fitted T-shirt
Sinclair Patterns Bondi Knit Classic Fitted T-shirt pattern link

Q: Item Created 
A. Top

Q. Independent Pattern Designer
A.
Sinclair Patterns

Q. Name and Number of Pattern
A.
Bondi 22

Q. Fabric Used:
A. Double Brushed Poly

Q. Special Embellishments/Notions Used
A. None

Q. Skill level required?
A.
Confident Beginner

Q. Are the instructions easy to follow?
A.
As with all Sinclair patterns the instructions are easy to follow with well written text and photos to match. There are step by step instructions.

Q. Are you pleased with the finished result? Did it meet your expectations?
A.
This top more than meets my expectations! I have made several tops with this pattern because it’s such a simple pattern to make

Q. Did it look like the picture?
A.
Yes it looks just like the picture

Q. Did you make any modifications in the pattern?
A.
No modifications were made to the pattern. They also offer two sleeve add-on patterns. One is puffed sleeves and the other is flared.

Q. Are there any changes you would have made?
A. This pattern is great just the way it is.

Q. Did the pattern teach you any unique or special techniques?
A.
I learned how to make a V-neck.

Q. Would you make this again?
A.
Most definitely

Q. Would you recommend this pattern to others?
A.
Yes I would. I have found Sinclair Patterns to have the best fit. They offer all their patterns in Petite, Regular and Tall.

Editors Note: This pattern comes in in sizes up to a 4X


~Kim Caywood, ASG member

Tagged With: patterns, t-shirt

August 8, 2022

ASG Fashion Show 2022 – San Antonio

  • « Previous Page
  • 1
  • …
  • 25
  • 26
  • 27
  • 28
  • 29
  • …
  • 63
  • Next Page »

Become a Member

Join the only national organization dedicated to Advancing Sewing as an Art and Life Skill.

Join Now button

Blog Article Categories

  • ASG Conference
  • Chapter Stories
  • Embroidery
  • Fitting
  • Learn to Sew
  • National Sewing Month
  • Products, Books, & Patterns
  • Projects
  • Quilting
  • Sewing
  • Sewing Techniques
  • Sewing Tips
  • Sewing Tours
  • Videos
  • Disclaimer
  • Privacy Policy

American Sewing Guild
National Headquarters
9660 Hillcroft, Suite 230
Houston TX 77096
713-729-3000 | 713-721-9230 Fax
www.ASG.org

ASG wordcloud - education, conference, discounts, videos, special offers, tours and more

Copyright © 1998–2025 · American Sewing Guild · All Rights Reserved