Sewing Techniques

February 5, 2021

Rockin’ those Ruffles

If you dig deep into the drawers in your sewing cabinet, you might find a rather strange looking attachment called a ruffler. This funny looking attachment hasn’t changed much in the decades since its invention—perhaps yours is generic or maybe brand specific.

If you’re not a fan of pulling up basting threads to gather, the ruffler will be your new BFF, as it can both precisely gather and make perfect pleats and tucks. In addition, it can do those tasks while attaching that layer to a flat base fabric—all at once.

Sew Many Parts

The ruffler attaches to your machine like other presser feet. Several parts are the secret to successful ruffling, so double check your owner’s manual for their location on your attachment. The fork arm that has to be positioned over the needle bar to enable the ruffler to do its work. In addition, there is a depth adjuster (either a screw or a dial) and it controls the depth of the gathers or pleats. There’s also a spacer that works in conjunction with the depth adjuster to count stitches and determine the fullness spacing. On most rufflers, the spacer has number designation like 1, 6, 12 or 0. If it’s set to 1, there will be a tuck every stitch; if it’s set to 6, there will be a tuck every sixth stitch, etc.

Ruffler Spacer | Photo courtesy of Bernina

The ruffler has a blade with tiny sharp teeth to move the fabric and there’s also a separator blade to keep the ruffling separate from any base fabric you might be attaching it to. Most rufflers offer several threading guides to allow for proper positioning of the stitches from the ruffle raw edge.

Stitch Length

In addition to changing the ruffler depth and spacer settings, note that the ruffles, pleats and tucks are also determined by the stitch length setting. So, because of all the variables associated with this attachment, it’s imperative to test stitch to get a look you like. Make some samples using your project fabric and vary the stitch length, but keep the depth the same, and keep the stitch length the same, but vary the depth.

Planning Ahead

Unlike using gathering threads, the ruffler’s fullness is not adjustable once it’s stitched, so test stitching is important for each project, as the fabric weight can affect the outcome as well.
Be sure to finish the edge/edges of the fabric you’re ruffling prior to running it through the ruffler. Ruffles can be single- or double-layer depending on the fabric weight. If you’re attaching the ruffle to a base fabric in the same operation, wait to finish the edges together after the application.
Because the ruffler allows you to create yards of tucked, pleated or gathered fabric quickly, it’s ideal for big projects like curtain ruffles, costumes, full skirts, pillows, etc.
Make yourself a sample notebook using various fabrics and various ruffler settings so you have a starting place for future projects, and a good reference for how the look changes with numerous adjustments. And, it goes without saying, that you’ll want to consult your owner’s manual and the attachment instruction book for complete details of the operations and settings on your particular machine.

~Linda Griepentrog
Linda is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and two dogs, Yohnuh and Abby. Contact her at .

January 8, 2021

Creating Fuzzies and Tassels

Many sewing projects require straight, precise lines at a pre-defined width using thread that blends into smooth fabric. But when it comes to decoration, there are no rules, and fabric becomes an artist’s canvas for sewing crooked, intentional wrinkles, and wild and vibrant threads.

In her book, Creating Texture with Textiles, Linda McGehee covers topics like crinkling, beading, couching, the cameo shuffle, pintucking, lattice piecing, and more. In this article, Linda shares her technique for making fuzzies and tassels. (reprinted with permission).

Fuzzies and tassels are simple to create and the color choices are as varied as the threads available. Threads that ravel nicely, such as heavier metallic and rayon threads for the upper and lower looper in the serger work beautifully for either technique. A combination of threads in a variety of colors produces the best design, depending on the project.

Fuzzies

Follow along for steps to make a fuzzy:

To make a fuzzy, twist 10 to 20 threads together to form a cord (Step 1). Begin with several long pieces of thread, fold them in half, then in half again.

Vest Challenge: Use these techniques (or others!) to enter the Ghee’s Vest Challenge. Learn more on the Ghee’s website or download the flyer. ASG Members, don’t forget to use your ASG discount! Get it in the Special Offers section.

To prevent pulling the finished fuzzy apart, use an open-toe foot with a serpentine stitch, a short length, and width as wide as the twisted cord to stitch the distance that is intended for the satin stitch (Step 2).
With the presser foot down, set the machine for a perfect satin stitch the width of the cord.
While in reverse, stitch over the serpentine stitch to the beginning of the stitching (Step 3).
Set the width just a little wider and stitch forward over the previous stitches to achieve a smooth finish. Because of the bulk of the threads, you may need to help the machine during the final stitching.

Tassels

Tassels are somewhat easier because one step is omitted.

Begin with twisted threads as with the fuzzies above (Step 1).
Zigzag over these threads about 1/4″ (Step 2).
Sink the needle into the fabric, lift the presser foot, pull the upper twisted threads around to position them on top of the others, and satin stitch over the previous stitching (Step 4).
Widen the stitch to accommodate the double layer of threads.
Trim to the desired length.
Let the threads hang naturally or use your hands to mingle and separate them.

Tassels have never been easier!

Tips

Any heaver serger thread or yard that ravels easily is great for fuzzies and tassels. Try metallic, rayon and ribbon floss.
Twist the threads tightly while stitching the serpentine stitch to make the smallest center
The twisted thread will be doubled in the tassel-making process. Plan accordingly and do not make the first step too large.

~Linda McGehee, Ghee’s (reprinted with permission)

November 27, 2020

Fast and Easy Fringed Edge Finishes

If you’re looking for a fast and easy edge finish, there’s nothing easier than fringe! It works on single-layer placemats, scarves, patches and pockets, or with a little more effort, you can insert fringe into a seam or hem.

The results of fringing are not always what you expect, as some fabrics are woven with different color threads going lengthwise and crosswise, so you get totally different colors in one direction from the other. Denim is a good example, as white threads are usually used one way and indigo the other.

The Basics

Select a woven fabric (knits cannot be fringed using this technique). Fabrics like linen, burlap, gauze, wools and bouclés are ideal candidates. The looser the weave, the easier the fringing process.

To create a simple fringe, be sure your project edge is cut parallel to the fabric grain. Sew a line of stitching where you want the fringe to stop, then start pulling threads up to the stitching line. The stitching thread can match the fabric or contrast with it.
For easier removal, use a needle or a large pin to help separate the fabric threads and gently pull them across the fringed area. Note that if your project has a right-angle corner (like a scarf), there will be a gap in the thread fringe at the corners.
If you want to knot the fringe, either singly or with thread groups, allow extra length for that process. Test-fringe a sample to see how much length you need for either a square knot or an overhand knot.
For a top-fringed pocket, cut the pocket top on the straight grain and extend it the desired fringe length (no hem). For a fringed sleeve hem, determine the sleeve length, then extend the lower edge the desired fringe length, being sure to keep a straight grain edge.
Single-layer scarves can be fringe-finished on all edges or just the ends, like on a muffler.

Inset Fringe

Inserting fringe into a seam allows for more placement flexibility and allows for placing it on a curve as well.
To make a fringe strip, cut a straight grain strip the desired width of the fringe, plus the requisite seam allowance. Stitch and fringe as noted above. On very loosely woven fabrics, layer two strips for a denser fringe.
Use the fringe strip as you would a piping, basting it along one layer of the seamline with the fringe facing the bulk of the project. Then top with the second layer of the project, and sew just inside the basting line. When you turn the project right side out, the fringe will extend beyond the seamed edge.
For long fringe strips, simply abut the ends of multiple fabric strips as needed. If you need a bulkier fringe, layer two strips atop each other and treat as one layer.

Design Tip: inset fringe can be made from matching or contrasting fabric.

Trim Tactics

If desired, you can add a ribbon or trim along the stitched edge of fringe as an accent, whether it’s single layer or inserted into a seam.

Don’t forget to check the selvage of your fabric, as some have fun fringes that can be used as is, and they already match!

July 31, 2020

Working with Snaps

Snap to it! Snaps, the handy two-part fasteners that we often don’t think much about, offer a multitude of options for garment closures.

Look for them in metal finishes (silver, gold, black or some colors) and in a multitude of plastic hues. There are also clear snaps available for greater invisibility and they’re ideal for prints, where choosing the right color can be tricky. When choosing metal snaps, be sure they are rustproof for durability.

Whether you use them for their intended purely functional purpose of holding two fabric layers together without visibility, or you use them artfully for a collage of added texture or a blatant “accessory”, the humble snap deserves attention.

Sew-on snaps come with two parts—a ball or knob portion, and a socket portion that accommodates the depth of the ball section when the pieces are pushed together. These are sometimes referred to as the ball and socket, or the male and female portion of snaps.

Size Wise

Snaps come in a variety of sizes from 1/8” diameter up to about 1 1/4” diameter. Most snaps are round with multiple holes around the perimeter, but some snaps are square, hexagonal or novelty shape, like flowers, hearts, etc.

Looking to purchase snaps? Shop Ghees or the Sewing Place and don’t forget to check the Special Offers page for ASG member discounts.

Smaller snaps are thinner than their larger counterparts, and thus have less holding power, so match the snap size to the weight of the fabric and the durability needed for the closure.

Snaps utilize three different sizing systems, depending on the brand. Some are categorized by their fractional or metric size (i.e. 1/4” or 30mm), others utilize a ligne system where 40 lignes=1”, and still others are listed by a letter sizing system. It’s easiest to just look at the snap and decide its practicality for the intended use.

Attachment Options

Snaps go between two layers of a project opening and are normally concealed, though fashion trends vary and often snaps become a decorative feature. It’s a good idea to have interfacing in the area where the snap sections be applied for durability.

Mark the location of one half of the snap, noting that the ball portion usually is applied to the underlayer and the socket portion to the overlap, but some sewers prefer the opposite. For easier marking, attach the ball portion first, then chalk the extension and press in place over the underlayer to transfer the marking.

To attach the snap sections, sew in and out of the same hole three to five times, being sure that the stitching doesn’t go through to the outside of the garment. After one hole is secure, carry the thread through the fabric layers to the next hole and repeat the process for each subsequent hole before knotting the thread and burying the tails.

For a more couture finish, attach the snap sections using a blanket stitch to secure the holes.

Snap portions can also be attached by machine, much as you would sew on a button. To hold the snap in place for sewing, tape it in place, sew through the tape, then peel off when stitching is complete. Use an open-toe foot, set the machine for zero stitch length and a stitch width to span the hole opening and the edge of the snap. Stitch in place three to five times to secure, then move to the next hole. Note that with this method, stitching will show on the reverse side of the garment opening.

Covering Up

If you don’t like the look of a large metal snap, especially on a tailored garment, think about covering the parts. You can also purchase snaps in various colors that are pre-covered.

To cover a snap, cut a circle of tightly woven lining two and a half times the diameter of the snap for each section. Hand-sew a line of running stitches around the perimeter leaving long thread tails. Place the snap half right side down onto the circle and pull the threads to gather the fabric tightly around the snap section. Pull tightly and stitch the circle edges together. The gathered fabric portion edges are hidden under the snap when it’s sewn in place. Repeat for the second snap half. To expose the ball portion, push the snap halves together and separate the fabric threads. If your covering fabric is prone to fraying, use a toothpick and add a very thin line of seam sealant around the base of the extension.

Sew on the snap sections as you would an uncovered variety.

May 29, 2020

Stretching Yourself: Using Elastic Thread

We’re not talking about aerobics, but using elastic thread! Building stretch into a garment is easy with this thin, stretchy strand and a little ingenuity. Sections of your project, like yokes, sleeves, cuffs, waistlines and bodices are all likely candidates for shirring.

Shirring refers to sewing multiple parallel rows of stitching using elastic thread in the bobbin.

Shirring on distressed denim — Shirring using elastic thread on distressed denim

Shirring Tips

Shirring works best with lightweight fabrics, like voile, linen, etc., but you can also do it on lightweight denims and silks.

Look for elastic thread at the notions counter of your favorite store. It’s available in black and white. Some knitting stores may offer elastic thread in other colors. If you have elastic thread in your stash, double check it before use, as elastic can deteriorate over time.

Wind the bobbin by hand, not using the machine’s standard mechanism. Don’t stretch the thread while winding, but also don’t let it be too loose or you won’t get good shirring results. Fill the bobbin as far as possible, but be sure the thread doesn’t extend beyond the bobbin edge. If you’re doing a large project, wind multiple bobbins at once.

Insert the bobbin into the bobbin case and thread it like normal. Place regular thread in the top of the machine. Set the stitch length from 3 to 5mm for test stitching.

Test-stitch on the right side of the fabric and adjust the stitch length and tension as needed to get a look you like.

Draw lines on the right side of your project so that the stitched rows begin and end inside the seam allowance of the garment. You can draw multiple lines, or use a quilting guide for spacing, or the width of the presser foot.

Pull out about 2” of elastic and top thread to begin the stitched row. Sew along the first marked line, sewing slower than you normally do. At the end of the row, pull out 2” of elastic thread and top thread as well. Do not use the automatic thread cutter with elastic thread and do not backstitch. Tie off the threads on both ends of the stitching line. Repeat for all the marked lines, keeping the fabric flat as you stitch subsequent rows.

If you run out of bobbin thread while sewing, simply tie off the thread ends and start sewing with a new bobbin where you left off. Anchor the new threads in the same manner by tying off securely.

When all rows are stitched, steam the elasticized area to create the final shirring effect. Set the iron for steam and simply hover it over the stitched area right side to set the stitching and elastic in place. The steam causes the elastic thread to shrink up the shirring a bit.

Sew the seam crossing the stitched rows and stitch again 1/8” from the first line to securely anchor the ends.

Elastic thread can be machine washed and dried at temperatures under 200°. Do not put the iron directly on the elastic, as it can be damaged by higher heat.